Turns out both ecus may be fucked *crosses fingers* I really hope not
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Project: Resurrection.
One ecu is fixed! The shop installed my safc and there's something wrong with it with the car off it reads throttle and airflow with the car running it doesn't read airflow. I swear this car just doesn't want to be revived lol.
No news of the build as IFO is this weekend tomorrow to be exact and the shop where my car is at will have a few cars he's built out there racing provided the rain clears up by then (yeah I said rain lol its been raining nonstop for the last few days which is odd lol)
The car is soooo close to being finished but the ecu is fucked the shop thought they fixed it but the ecu for whatever reason is not sending a signal to the number 1 injector He traced the wire and it's fine even tested the injector and thats fine as well so the only other option is something in the ecu is not right. I got one coming that I got off a member on nico club. So all that needs to be done is the wires for the o2 sensor wires need to be extended the wideband needs to be hooked up and the electric fans need to be hooked up not sure yet How I'm going to dp that one yet.
Woot ecu on its way!
UGH!!!!!! The beast was running we had it idling I even drove it then had to fix the fuel pump relay got that fix needed to adjust the idle and the hood latch broke finally got the hood open, and the adjusted the got all that done and yay I get to finally bring her home! On my way home running fine then out of nowhere she just cuts off power to everything just cuts off so I try to start her and all I get is crank crank off crank crank off as if something is loose or not connected I checked everything and nuthing is unhooked..... This car just does not want to come back!
The widow is officially alive!!!! Woot I'll have to upload some pics in a min videos to follow when I get rid of this gremlim I have but as she sits right she feels good and pulls pretty good at half throttle on 5psi (5 lbs ext wastegate spring ) gotta get used to driving a "racecar? again I forgot how stiff the suspension was lol so hitting bumps in the road threw me off.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/205ca9be-c1d2-4543-bad8-78ae9057870f_zpsbc21ddd8.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/9db44993-0bcd-4804-8c50-1d142dfa6661_zpsa9dbda7b.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/f302a050-f44c-490a-8092-ab02905e5ba1_zps254752f9.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/2aad7430-b326-4c44-8a2d-c902f4e904d1_zpsb3bc0489.jpg)
She's kinda dirty which is fine because she'll get a bath soon enough she has been sitting for over a year.
Holy wheel gap batman....congrats though on getting her runnin
its actually lower than stock lol
I bet it is just the wheels make it look worse than it is
long time coming man. congrats. how many miles break in did trevor say?
Thanks! I believe he said 500 which between both jobs and kendras dialysis I will hit no problem. I just need to figure out this cas problem. and need to swap my coils with the ones you gave me as 2 of the ones I have on are going to shit. Need to reset the ecu as well. you have hear the ecu reading the motor it keeps adjusting it, it idles semi rough then raise then clear up and come back down lol cold idle is night and day difference then before but with being so cold out lately it seems to stay high in idle.
Another 12 back on the road. That's what's up!
Hell yeah!
I might have gave you an extra CAS. I remember getting one off a pulsar but never needing it. I might have gave it with the motor tho. so long ago now. haha wow we are old.
take the CAS off and check it out mechanically. there was a thread on nico where the guy had problems for a long time and it turned out to be the little prong in there broken off the cam.
you did give me the spare one I have it on the motor right now I got another one coming if the issue is still the same then I have a different issue
Turns out I figured out what the problem is. Apparently if your missing one of the alignment pins for the timing cover it throws off the alignment of the cam angle sensor and crank angle sensor when they are out of alignment it burns up the servo (or whatever its called in the cas = cam angle sensor) when that bhappens the car doesn't want to do anything.
good to go now?
Not yet I gotta get to the yard on weds and got those pins for the timing cover then I should be good to go.
Woot good to go been driving her for about 3 days now!! and haven't had any issues other than hitting fuel cut at 5500rpm at 3/4 throttle but other than that she pulls good. I took a few pics today when I got off work I'll post some vids when I get some sometime.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/Jasons%20S12s/20131221_155851_zpsp0ipor1y.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/Jasons%20S12s/20131221_155910_zpsnyx61gaw.jpg)
The stickers I added
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/Jasons%20S12s/20131221_155922_zpspbkjsgvg.jpg)
I have made the executive decision to not put the grill back on so if anyone needs a mk2 grill I'll sell it for 20 plus shipping and you can have it...
So far 2 cars have been wrapped up in the web of the black widow. An Integra and a n/a z32 the z32 apparently thought he had a chance because I wasn't trying to race It was sunday @ 3am (freeway empty) and I just wanted to get home but he refused to get off my ass so I down shifted into fourth and from 4k to 55k I put about 4 buses on him and that was at about 35 percent throttle on 5psi. I can't go full throttle until I upgrade my maf. I really can't wait to dyno the car and see where I'm at before I up the boost.
mmmm, exhaust fumes
lol not really I'm sure it will go away when I get full exhaust
my afrs seem to be good but I ran into a new problem I got a damn exhaust leak! so now my car sounds like ass UGH! I hate that shit. I know exactly where it's coming from to so I need to find a bolt that will work for the back of the turbo. But other than she runs great.
Also need to hook up my oil catch can when I find it along with fixing one of my rad hoses that has a small leak I love the mishimoto rad tho the fans only kick on when the car has been sitting at idle but once it gets moving temp drops quickly and the needle is barely above the c when with the stock rad it would be in between the c and the midway mark also when the fans kick on they are only on for like 2 mins. I really like this set up I would love to know how it will react in the summer but we won't be here long enough for that to happen and england's weather is way better than vegas' lol and they don't generally get 100+ temps
So to to temp fix the hole where my shifter is I bought some carpet from Lowes and used it to cover the shifter hole since the P.O pretty much destroyed it trying to mod for the ca trans it doesn't do much for noise but the exhaust are'nt so heavy I got my piece from oem surplus and I'm going to order some dynamat for noise reduction and to eliminate the smell that coupled with the pice I got from oem surplus and the carpet it should be good to go. Also hooked up my wideband which is awesome because now I can keep track of afrs. idle I'm rich boost I'm rich cruising I'm stoich so not to bad for now once I find a safc that works I'll install the n60 maf I have and turn up the boost!
Here are some progress pics.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/20131227_154215_zps7cfqhjt1.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/RaveRacer07/20131227_154911_zps405wdydl.jpg)
The wideband had power but was not plugged in to the o2 sensor.
Just found out I can eliminate the stock 02 sensor and run the wideband to the ecu for a more accurate reading I think that will be next on the list of things to do...
I got he exhaust leak semi fixed turns out one of the wastegate bolts started to back so it blew the gasket got rid of the gasket and tightened down but its still leaking from somewhere else I'll have to get under the car to see if I can see where its coming from. Going to do my first after break in oil change in a couple of days coming along nicely slowly but nicely.
Post Merge
I have run into a new issue I think my fpr is taking a shit on me because I'm constantly running rich even when off throttle and the car dies if when coming to a stop but it fires right up when I start it it only does it when the motor is warm.
Good to see you back on the road! BTW, what fuel pump are you running? And, have you checked FP at the rail?
Woot got my new fpr will install it tomorrow hopefully it will stop my rich at idle problem...
Post Merge
Welp that didn't work....
So I think ive run into an injector problem as my afrs read backwards 10-11 while idling 12-13 under boost and 17-18 and sometimes no reading at all while not in boost. Its the number while not in boost that bothers me. It was never this lean when I first got it running also when cruising out of boost if feels as if I have a turbo motor but no turbo. It takes min to get up to speed unless I get in it in which case it hits boost and takes off still feels a bit hesitant but better... Not sure where to go from here any help would be appreciated ( although I probably wont get any)
When you had conected your wideband to your ecu did you turn the dip switch in the back to put it in narrow band mode (0-1v)? Your stock ecu is working in narrow band but the wideband orignal output i wideband (0-5v)
To check your injectors throw some 12v on each one at the time you should hear them clicking, i saw some old motor that the injectors were stuck closed but never saw stuck open...
Just start unplugging injectors at idle. If you pull one and idle doesn't change or the engine doesn't stumble then that's the bad one. I'd also check the ohm loads on each to be sure they're with spec.
I've been through the injector test and they all check out fine when Idling it's not the idling I'm worried about it's the very lean when cruising that bothers me.... 16 - 17 when cruising and sometimes it just gives me the 3 dashes - - - and you can feel the difference in performance and in the throttle but if I get into boost it richens up right away but should be richer than it is when I get into boost. I may have a vac leak some where I need to do a boost leak test to see where it might be so I can fix it I've checked the 5 vac lines i have and the bov everything seems to check out there. I'm lost. I want to up the boost but cant until I get this problem sorted...
How much fuel pressure do you have
It's set at 38psi...
Should be good, had you check what i told you about the wideband output signal?
Not yet will be doing all that weds as i have to pull the exhaust manifold to see where my exhaust leak is coming from I know it's there just can't figure out where.... But I will also check that...
Hope that your sxhaust leak is after your wideband sensor. If your leak is before it's affecting your a/f ratio
Yeah I was thinking the same thing....
How close is your maf to your turbo? It needs to be like 10" away, otherwise you'll run into all sorts of weird issues. Ask me how I know :yes:
Its a good distance away I sometimes wonder If im running the right maf because the 18et & 18det look very similar and I have a few of both.... Keith where is your fuel cut? I get it at 55k which I know is wrong because before I wouldnt get it at all I could rev to 7 no problem....
Post Merge
And thats when I was stock.
Seriously the further the maf is away from the turbo the better....i would say 8" at the minimum. I remember a big discussion on this on Nico several years ago.
I was getting some kind of cut at around 5000-5500 a while back along with serious boost creep. I decided to move my maf a little further away from the turbo and put the filter in the engine bay instead of in the wheel well....and instantly my boost creep went away, and the fuel cut disappeared. Makes no sense to me...lol
What is the part number on your maf? If you're using a ca18et maf, then that could be your issue
22680-61A01 is the euro part number for ca18det MAF. in an old thread on here Prolowtone says his ca18det maf number is 22680-58A10. a couple other examples say thats the right one.
22680-18F00(i have this one) and 22680-18F01 are both ca18et. part searches say they are replaced by 22680-61A00 which is damn close to the euro dohc part number. kinda odd
btw usdm fwd ca18de lists the same maf numbers as the ca18et
I'll check those numbers and see and Keith It is closer than it needs to be I'll see off I can find some piping so I can move it.
My ca18det maf is 22680 58A10
You should consider a z32 maf.....you could be maxing out the CA maf with that big ass turbo. I switched to a z32 maf a couple of years ago
My ca18et maf is 22680 61A00
Lol you cannot swap maf without retune
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Its a stock maf so yes you can
AlEx_RaCiNg666 on 04:45:01 PM / 23-Jan-14Lol you cannot swap maf without retuneReally? :innocent:
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Turns out both the mafs I have are 18et mafs. Also turns out that when I sold a maf to a member on here it was the det one. With that being said there is no exhaust leak and it turns out that my fpr is not working the way it should. It reads 38psi at idle and when you rev it its supposed to raise the pressure and that it does not. I ordered another one from ebay and it doesnt work so im stuck right now using the old crappy on untill I get some money.