Matt's S12

what kind of headlight housings are your hid's in?

Oh yeah, that looks good man, great job there.

mr.lonelyS12what kind of headlight housings are your hid's in?

Where ever did you get that bitchin chrome breather filter?!?!?!

Oh, and as a personal note, I wouldn't mount the BOV like that just in case[/] some shit decides to fall int there and fuck it up. Yea you could spend how ever much on another cheapie e-bay one, but why spend money if you don't need to. That would just be one of my fears, so I would mount it any other direction than up. Just my .02, so do what ya want.

NemisisWhere ever did you get that bitchin chrome breather filter?!?!?!
Oh, and as a personal note, I wouldn't mount the BOV like that just in case[/] some shit decides to fall int there and fuck it up. Yea you could spend how ever much on another cheapie e-bay one, but why spend money if you don't need to. That would just be one of my fears, so I would mount it any other direction than up. Just my .02, so do what ya want.

ArroWell you can find those breathers everywhere at auto parts stores for like 10 bux or less.

Ok, just not sure why you'd want to clown on it in the first place.

ArroOk, just not sure why you'd want to clown on it in the first place.

Yeah, just an inside joke.

I can easily turn it around, and reclock the top for the vacuum line, it's just pointing up because of the recirculation setup I had on it before and didn't think of that when I transferred it to the new pipe.

I say leave it, but it's your car

Probably would be louder too, but I think it's loud enough as it is.

https://youtu.be/eV1yP81_ZjQ
Sound quality sucks, but oh well.

From riding in that car a couple times, and knowing how it feels- I'm guessing you had that up around 70?

Oh, and from what I know about BOVs, they are louder when you put them on the turbo (hot) side, and quieter (as well as more responsive) when placed on the cold side.

My god that car hauls ass tho!!!

Xanoit was meant for a jet/honda ruckus =P  joe gave him it to put on.

You should see it from the rear when he takes off, how the car squats down and the camber goes crazy negative!

Yeah, thanks Sterling, springs would help that.

I'm working on that though! Maybe I'll pick up those QA1 springs you got... What's the part number for those?

And yea...  70, that's it.

seishukuAnd yea...  70, that's it.

55, but the sign said "end of speed zone"! No posted speed limit.

Weldin' up the rear sub-frame...

Rear diff mount will more than likely get the same treatment (a little more tricky, since I don't have a spare).

Nice work man

Awesome, thanks man!

With those springs and a fully solid mounted suspension, I should have minimal squatting... Or at least MUCH less than I have now.

Well, it's a good thing I started to remove sound deadening stuff... Found a area of rust under it, covered most of the area under the driver's seat and the rear foot area.
Nothing rotting through, but it was close... I bet it would have been real bad if I had let it go past this winter.

Also found a LOT of moisture under the material in the driver's side foot area and in the rocker box as well (visible through the large hoses with the tape over them, you know what I mean if you've ever taken out the carpet).

I'm scared to take out my carpet :s

So how are you going to go about fixing it?

Mine was just a little scale and surface rust, so a little scraping and some wire brushing was all that was needed. After that I hit it with some Rustoleum gloss black.

The rocker panels tend to rust pretty bad, moisture gets into them, and parts of the floor and side channelling start to disappear quickly.

Seriously. I had that problem real bad on my old Stanza Wagon, only it was through the rocker and into the unibody rail.

And I whipped this up after work today:

COOL

I really want to build my own wiring harness so I could do such a thing, but I need manual windows first

Any chance you want my extra blue carpet?  otherwise its gonna get tossed

Is it in any better condition? I'd ask if you have any rear carpet, but I already know it'd be for a notch.

Its in pretty decent shape, yeah.  I've got something else for ya  so I'll be making a trip up there once the car is put back together.

Also, I have an extra set of steelies, interested at all?  Otherwise they'll just be left at storage (property sold, everything to be leveled after sept 1st)

Steelies for free? I'll off load 'em for ya!  I'm always down for a spare set, and I love the steel rims.

Figured you would   We'll figure out a time and all that in the Meet section in the summer thread we've had going for awhile now.

Awesome!

It's official, my S12 weighs 2630 with me in it.
A buddy of mine informed me of a scale back in an old industrial area, they're closed on saturdays and sundays, and the scale is out in the open, so you just drive on it!
Real old school dial scale, an accurate one though.

Nice.  How stripped is ur car?  I kno no dash but HVAC still at weighing?  How much interior?  Sound deadening?  Just tryin to get an idea how much my car will weigh.

No dash, no panels, no sound deadening (well, not much left anyway, just a few spots), no AC (still has heat), manual windows, no sunroof/moonroof.

Oh, had more than half tank of gas too.

It actually weights quite a bit more than I thought... I was thinking around 2500 at the most, high 2300 at the least. 2600 is surprisingly high to me.

Probably doesn't help that I have all original 15" steel rims.

I gotta make all new suspension parts, some 4130 alloy tube steel control arms, light weight struts, tubular sub frames, alloy rims, remove the sheet metal (like the spare tire tub).

 That's a lot of work for a few hundred LBS.

Good luck to Sterling on his 2200LBS S12.

I C.  I have the same steelies on standby.  I've changed tires out on them at work (Goodyear) and those things are HEAVY!  Even for steelies.  I've had big ass 17in truck steelies that are lighter than ours.  Rediculous but at least its weight thats easy to get rid of.

I think the higher than expected weight has something to do with all the stuff goin on under the hood.  Mayb non-turbo on the bottle and you can get the kind of weight ur lookin for while keepin the powar.

Oh and the HVAC stuff under the dash (under nothing for you) plus the firewall sound deadening was 43 lbs out of my car.  You'll have to give up heat though.  They have little electric ones that run off the cig lighter.  Just an idea.

Complete loss of heat really isn't an option here, esp for a dd.  Unless you are a polar bear.  In extreme conditions, my S12 would have a hard time heating the interior up, and thats when before it was stripped.  We're talking temps less than 20*F, which happens with some regularity here.

Matt, that 2600 number is with you in it, I'm talking just the chassis.  Then, you would be closer to that number.

You SO have to tell me where this is, so I can get a decent measurement when I'm done!!!
!!!

So excited to know where a scale is  

I'm thinking 2300-2400 will be within easy reach, if I take care of a few small things with my setup (power windows, the damn sunroof).  That, and compared with your setup, you're looking at me not having the turbo, intercooler, misting setup, etc, so we should be fairly close I think.  Yep, 2200 will be a bitch, thats for sure  

200sxkitcarComplete loss of heat really isn't an option here, esp for a dd.  Unless you are a polar bear.  In extreme conditions, my S12 would have a hard time heating the interior up, and thats when before it was stripped.  We're talking temps less than 20*F, which happens with some regularity here.

Matt, that 2600 number is with you in it, I'm talking just the chassis.  Then, you would be closer to that number.

You SO have to tell me where this is, so I can get a decent measurement when I'm done!!!
!!!

So excited to know where a scale is  

I'm thinking 2300-2400 will be within easy reach, if I take care of a few small things with my setup (power windows, the damn sunroof).  That, and compared with your setup, you're looking at me not having the turbo, intercooler, misting setup, etc, so we should be fairly close I think.  Yep, 2200 will be a bitch, thats for sure

Maybe we can get some weigh-ins when we meet up next!

And yea, this is with me in it... So it's about 2400 with out me (I need to lose weight  ).

Been diving into the machine code of my ECU's programming, and I think I may have figured out something that will be worth while.

I'm not sure how familiar anyone here is with the more modern Nissan ECU, but they use the sensors (CAS, coolant temp, and MAF mainly) to calculate a value they call TP (theoretical pulsewidth) and that looks up in the fuel and timing maps along with the RPM value, that in turn gives you the fuel trim and timing for that cell (they also average on a 2x2 block for smoothness).
Anyway, the consult connector on most ECUs lets you access some of the sensor data, but they don't help any for tuning (maybe ignition timing, that's it though)... HOWEVER there is a RAM address that holds the magic tuning TP value AND you can modify a table that holds the sensors that consult reports.
Guess what the means? I can ADD the TP value to the sensors that consult reports and I can log all that!

Pretty sweet when you're on a dyno and want to log all that info for fine tuning.

That sounds pretty cool, but I understood approximately 30% of that.  Obviously, I have a ways to go in the computer tech department.

How you tuned your car initially, did you do it thru some sort of consult port that you wired in?  How exactly are you reading out of a consult port w/o the consult?

200sxkitcarThat sounds pretty cool, but I understood approximately 30% of that.  Obviously, I have a ways to go in the computer tech department.

How you tuned your car initially, did you do it thru some sort of consult port that you wired in?  How exactly are you reading out of a consult port w/o the consult?

where you live is like s12 heaven.beautiful job.where did you learn all of how to do that stuff.dont tell me a chiltons manual.haha

200sxkitcarThat sounds pretty cool, but I understood approximately 30% of that.  Obviously, I have a ways to go in the computer tech department.

How you tuned your car initially, did you do it thru some sort of consult port that you wired in?  How exactly are you reading out of a consult port w/o the consult?

Xanolol, I understood 90% of that.

cause I am a computer programer, matt, when people say ecu modification is not possible, I deny that claim, anything's possible with a soldering iron and the right connectors, transistors, and resisters.

Fuckin sweet, I will need to see this for sure.  Seen the mechanical end, but never got into it much with the tuning.

It all applies to most modern ECCS engines too (DOHC CA, SR, KA, DOHC VG, etc), very useful when you start building that monster KAT!

lol, cool.  I'm looking forward to perhaps someday having an engine platform that is worth doing something like that so I can learn all that wholesome goodness

Don't know if Joe or Kyle have been online much, but I'm curious if they are still down for the 30th.

They must be busy at work or something... I'll fire off a text message to Joe and see.

(https://i.imgur.com/mWf9Qsk.png)
My tuning dashboard that I work with... Latest version of LogWorks, running the LogWorks enabled Calumsult (which streams consult data to LogWorks), and I've modified my ECU firmware to stream the TP load value to consult.
Which means I can log that in LogWorks, and generate a chart based on TP, RPM, and WB O2, then compared that with my ECU's fuel map and correct fueling!

Like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/zKvy85d.png)

Side project:

(https://i.imgur.com/Q9JeF3w.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9jCSPl6.jpg)

A KA I picked up from Sterling.

Had a broken cam cap bolt on the head (fixed now), and right now I'm just kinda mocking up parts on it. I'll probably reassemble the long block, until I can get a new head gasket and some head bolts (maybe studs, donno yet).

It'll probably be built as a 9:1 CR turbo engine, but I may just build it stock as a spare engine.

That would be AWESOME!