Matt's S12

Here's the pic:
(IMG:http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/Battery.jpg)

Edit:
Oh, and I also have a little bit of foam under the bracket and under the battery, so it can't slide out.

This post has been edited by seishuku: Apr 8 2008, 10:39 PM

Excellent!!  thank you very much

i love your engineering skills matt.

Your work is like mine; cheap, functional and strange

Excellent!! thank you very much (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

i love your engineering skills matt.

Your work is like mine; cheap, functional and strange (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

edit: I just remembered that you turbo'd it, HAHAHAHA. I'd LOVE an s14 sr20de someday, you know, without the turbo.

200sxkitcarExcellent!!  thank you very much

DeathAndMajestyi love your engineering skills matt.

Your work is like mine; cheap, functional and strange

200sxkitcar @ Apr 9 2008, 06:09 PM
Excellent!! thank you very much (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

DeathAndMajesty @ Apr 9 2008, 07:26 PM
i love your engineering skills matt.

Your work is like mine; cheap, functional and strange (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

More powder coating fun!
(https://i.imgur.com/vCG4krZ.jpg)

I had JUST enough safety red left over to do it too.

More powder coating fun!
(IMG:http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/ValveCover.jpg)

I had JUST enough safety red left over to do it too.

Done in ur oven too. Thats when u know ur a true car guy. AWESOME!

Bingo.
I shaved off the powder on the lettering too, but I'm kinda pissed... I accidentally scuffed it while sanding, so now I gotta polish it some.

Bingo. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I shaved off the powder on the lettering too, but I'm kinda pissed... I accidentally scuffed it while sanding, so now I gotta polish it some.

Trying a new setup, blow-through MAF this time. I don't know why I didn't do this in the first place, it's awesome! I had to relocate the water injector nozzle, but other than that, it idles perfectly and runs just the same (feels like a little more power too).

My biggest issue originally with this setup was oil from bad turbo seals, but after running this turbo for about a year I haven't noticed any oil in the IC piping, so whatever.

The pics!
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/Current%20Look/EngineBay1-051108.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/Current%20Look/EngineBay2-051108.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/Current%20Look/EngineBay3-051108.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/Current%20Look/EngineBay4-051108.jpg)

The knock-off Greddy BOV sounds like crap vented, but the car overall does seem to run much better.

Now I just need to ditch the crap-tastic Walbro fuel pump for a nice Bosch 040, and I'll be set!

Probably should have placed the BOV closer to the TB and it probably wouldn't sound as bad... Because closer to the TB is apparently the proper place for it. But looking at your setup, it seems like you were just working with what was already there- and it looks good too! Props on the valve cover man, cant wait to see this car again!

Yeah, that would be better, but there's just no room!
Maybe if I got the BOV flange welded to the piping, then it wouldn't be a big deal, but I wouldn't put that welding job on my worst enemy! 1/16 aluminum piping sucks to weld.

seishukuYeah, that would be better, but there's just no room!
Maybe if I got the BOV flange welded to the piping, then it wouldn't be a big deal, but I wouldn't put that welding job on my worst enemy! 1/16 aluminum piping sucks to weld.

what electric fan are you using? is it wired up to a switch?

Joe:  He could do it in his sleep!

Doug: It's a cheap-o Hayden 16" I picked up from Advanced Auto Parts (Checker Auto, Schuck's, Kragen, etc), it's wired through a relay with an 85C thermostatic switch (from Summit Racing) in the upper radiator hose (seen in pics #1 and #3).

Changing the paint on the wheels, got the two rears done, still gotta take care of the front though.
(https://i.imgur.com/9VF0NvY.jpg)

WTF?

I'll wait until I see this thing in person for an official comment...

I think you're jealous  

I think it will look good, nice to change things up from time to time...

200sxkitcarI think you're jealous  

I think it will look good, nice to change things up from time to time...

The flash makes the ride height look 4x4, it doesn't look that bad in person.

Doing a little body work and paint cleanup/repair.

Buff it out and it'll really shine!

I think the next items on the list:
Remove sound deadening.
Stitch weld seams, front and back, strut/shock towers, and unibody sub-members.
Clean-up, paint.
Finish up outside, fill in holes, etc.

Started working on removing some of the sound deadening in the rear, and Sterling you're right... It does come out pretty easy with a scraper and a mallet.

More pics and stuff to come!

hey man, I put up some info about that in my thread, checkz it out

I really think that stitching up the chassis is going to do wonders in terms of structural rigidity.

You also may want to, you know, upgrade a *bit* from the stock suspension  

dude you have all that shit under the hood, get some decent wheels and drop springs. PLLLLLEASE

I donno man, that stuff came off pretty easy, even in this 80 degree heat. The only spots it's really sticking, is where the factory seam sealant is at, but that's gotta come out the hard way anyway.

And I haven't had many problems with stock sus... Other than the rear springs... *cough*Sterling*cough*

I updated to the newer version of eMachineShop and I have AutoCAD, so I'm gonna really start crackin on those rear control arm and redesign.

Plus this is all budget, one piece at a time and doing whatever I can for free... It's an S12 after all.

LOL  

Thats good its coming out, being an AZ car that might have some effect on it as well.

Sticks like a bitch tho @ seam sealer, right?? haha

+1 for cheap and free, its too bad I don't have any cool extra wheels I could give you....

seishukuI updated to the newer version of eMachineShop and I have AutoCAD, so I'm gonna really start crackin on those rear control arm and redesign.

good job

Hey Sterling, you know how my steering wheel gets sticky? Well, after having to peel my hands off the wheel after the meet, I decided to take off the really bad factory leather cover, and under it is actually a pretty nice rubber wheel!
Looks brand new!

No more sticky wheel, yay!

seishukuHey Sterling, you know how my steering wheel gets sticky? Well, after having to peel my hands off the wheel after the meet, I decided to take off the really bad factory leather cover, and under it is actually a pretty nice rubber wheel!
Looks brand new!

No more sticky wheel, yay!

Oh, and an interesting note... The sheer bolts that hold the steering column lock on, those are really easy to remove by spinning them out with a hammer and center punch.

I think I'm going to get a quick release wheel and strip down the column.

XanoMatt, thats what I had to do to the SE wheel I had, the leather on the outside sucks, but whats underneath is really decent rubber.

Made my own ball+spring boost controller, set it back to 11PSI... Pulls HARD now, not that it wasn't before anyway.

Gotta find my wife's hairspray though, I keep blowing off one of the fittings.

I had a question about your boost controller. Does it have a "vent" hole on the side of it or just the ball and spring to restrict it. I made one that sounds similar but was told to drill a tiny hole in the side. I was just curious cause the "vent hole" whistles louder than the turbo and i figure it basically is making a boost leak. Thanks and Your build is lookin sweet. I like the white steelies

A ball n' spring type MBC needs a vent hole of some kind to unbind the pressure on the spring each time you let off the throttle (and the boost recedes).

How big of a hole did you drill? A small enough hole doesn't make a whistle. Maybe yours is too big? What drill bit did you use?

Yeah, I have one in the plastic tubing that I use... I think it was a .028" drill.

im not completely sure what size it is. Its tiny though

Updates:
(https://i.imgur.com/DOawRnA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qIj3XA4.jpg)

New hot pipe I made, now that I know how to weld aluminum.

I think I'm going to also take the extra rear cross member that I got from Sterling and weld it up, make the bushings solid and then paint and swap that in.

Wow dude that looks fantastic!  You might want to put some sort of wrap where the pipe comes close to the plug wires, dunno how hot that tube gets,...  but looking good

He'd be better off shielding the turbo with some sheet methinks.

It doesn't get very hot, I'm more worried about arcing/

Yeah.

I'm sure there is some sort of wrap that is non-conductive, but then again, pretty much anything is conductive at 30thousand volts, lol.

Eh, as long as your wires aren't shitty or getting old, you'll probably be fine.  If you have issues, it will be easy to check (just watch it run at night)  

200sxkitcarYeah.

I'm sure there is some sort of wrap that is non-conductive, but then again, pretty much anything is conductive at 30thousand volts, lol.

Eh, as long as your wires aren't shitty or getting old, you'll probably be fine.  If you have issues, it will be easy to check (just watch it run at night)  

Yeah, I'll test that later, the pipe I have in there now doesn't arc, so this one shouldn't be any worse (sits about the same).

I gotta extend the pipe at the BOV flange, appearently I cut it about 1.5" too short.

Much better!
(https://i.imgur.com/eUmsw1B.jpg)

Changed the spring in the BOV too, sounds much more aggressive, I'll try to get a soundbite later.