Matt's S12

(https://i.imgur.com/zukdHYC.jpg)

She has a full exhaust now!
I finished the main piping last night at about 11pm, which is when I normally go to sleep... And had to be up at 5am.
I thought about taking it to work with no muffler, but I decided against it and took the Scion. It's a good thing I did too, because I made a quick run to the pet store today and DAMN it's WAY louder with full pipe than it is with a short open tube.
Sounds hella awesome though, will be perfect for the track... I usually can't hear my exhaust over every one elses.

I'll get some pics of the exhaust later, since I have to take it back off to clean it up and paint it.

Sounds nice too, I'll try to get some clips of that too... It's been nasty and rainy lately.

seishukuSounds nice too, I'll try to get some clips of that too... It's been nasty and rainy lately.

XanoRainy does not equal nasty....dont insult it, it will turn back into snow if you complain lol.

At this point, I'd rather have snow! This freakin rain is melting everything, saturating the soil and causing my garage to be flooded!

Plus I have to cross a yard full of mud.

A few on car pics:

Edit:
Oh, the flanges I made up from some scrap steal at work... A little plasma cutting and a little lathe/drill press work to finish up.
They only match each other, but that's all that mattered to me, they seem to even seal pretty well with out a gasket.

Also, the pipe and flange end on the over frame/under axle section doesn't quite fit through the stock location, so I have to unbolt the diff mount and drop the rear of the diff down to clear room.

That's tucked up nice! Will keep the floor nice n warm in winter

I'd be interested to see how long before your flanges without a gasket last before they get a leak.

200sxkitcarand that full setup is louder than the old side dump??  curious?

could sport a glasspack or resonator in the middle if you so desired...

looks good tho!

I mean the exhaust with out the muffler is louder than with no exhaust and just the O2 dump. I think the exhaust piping is acting like a megaphone of sorts, making things louder, it may also be causing a scavenging effect that pulls sound as well as gases.

It's hard to say for sure, at least not with out doing some tests anyway.

Muffler:
https://youtu.be/-Y1cNsmB20o
No muffler:
https://youtu.be/CaoczZ7NfME

https://youtu.be/AB2OVudNUEo

Lazy 120, not quite from 0, but close.

seishuku : hello i have watch yours 11 page on you s12 and i think that s12 building is so pretty

Maybe you have mentioned this before, but I'm just curious. Why did you remove your dash, but you still have your heat and everything, I would think it would be the other way around.

s12swedenseishuku : hello i have watch yours 11 page on you s12 and i think that s12 building is so pretty

SprockCapnMaybe you have mentioned this before, but I'm just curious. Why did you remove your dash, but you still have your heat and everything, I would think it would be the other way around.

seishuku : how long you had your nissan s12 ?

SprockCapnMaybe you have mentioned this before, but I'm just curious. Why did you remove your dash, but you still have your heat and everything, I would think it would be the other way around.

s12swedenseishuku : how long you had your nissan s12 ?

PraizewoodIt's funny because either you get a nice body from a dry place or a nice interior from a humid place. CA has to be the only place with the perfect balance.
It sucks over here because they salt the roads and it just KILLS the cars. Rust is almost ensured after 10 years depending on the car brand.

The weather is fairly nice to cars here too in MONTANA because we have dry hot summers and in the winters they don't salt the roads. So we get good interiors and not much rust at all. We are lucky.

Making a new home for the intercooler...

Well, after running with my new exhaust for a while now... No leaks at the flanges, even with out gaskets.

I've been lazy though, I still haven't changed my charge piping for the new intercooler mount; nor have I pulled the exhaust back apart for pics and paint.

I have been battling my ECU though, for some reason it's taking my ignition timing and chucking it out the window. So... I've been working on getting that fixed, because no one likes driving a slug.

seishukuWell, after running with my new exhaust for a while now... No leaks at the flanges, even with out gaskets.

I've been lazy though, I still haven't changed my charge piping for the new intercooler mount; nor have I pulled the exhaust back apart for pics and paint.

I have been battling my ECU though, for some reason it's taking my ignition timing and chucking it out the window. So... I've been working on getting that fixed, because no one likes driving a slug.

Matt, if you want to come down here, you can steal my decent condition black dash out of my SE in the yard here.

Hey, yeah, I didn't think of that... I might take you up on that.

Can you pull any part off, or is it a pay for the part kind of deal now? (since it's in the wreckers)

I'm not sure exactly when I can make the trip, gas money is a little tight ATM, but like I said before, probably after the vegas trip.

Edit:
Well shit, it's only 130 miles... That's not too bad.

I'll let ya know!

its a pay per part deal, but i know the guys at that junkyard well, and since its my car, I can work shit out somewhat.

smaller parts we can pocket/bag, they wont care.  I took about 30 lights from em the other day off of their 10 neons while i was there getting a taillight housing for my girlfriends car.

Any chance they'd let us pull the dash for free?

it might be easier to route your intercooler piping if you turn it upside down? seems like the inlet/exits are really close to the frame rails

seishukuAny chance they'd let us pull the dash for free?

That wouldn't be bad, beats $190 to ship one in!

yeh, the place is decent on prices, generally their rule of thumb is any body panel is 25, any interior panel is 25, and if you just pull a bunch of small shit, like a switch or something like that, its usually free or 5 bucks.

Cool.
The Wife tells me that it'll have to wait until after Vegas, so hopefully everything will still be there when we get back.

On the ECCS issues topic:
I made a ROM with the knock sensor disabled, so far everything seems good.
My current theory is that when the engine gets up to temp, the heat is just enough to affect the piezoelectric element in the knock sensor and it causes erratic output.
OR, the ECU is ignoring the knock input UNTIL the engine is up to temp, and the sensor is just plain bad and causes the ECU to dump right into the knock maps as soon as it starts listening to the sensor.

I'm going to hook my laptop's mic input to the knock sensor and take a recording of the engine at temp, see what's really going on.

I know the engine isn't really knocking, it would be way obvious if it was (I'd hear it, or it would show on the spark plugs).

That's two sensors that have crapped out on me now, first my wideband and now probably my knock sensor.

rageit might be easier to route your intercooler piping if you turn it upside down? seems like the inlet/exits are really close to the frame rails

knock sensor being bad seems like a thought, It probably DOES ignore it until up to temp, and then when it tries to read from it, its getting really off readings but not recognizing it as the sensor being bad.

On the car, man, I tell you what, i'm the only S12 driver around here, so I'm the only one that grabs parts off it.  When i get paid, I can head down there and try to remove it, I just dont know enough about it to actually get it off lol.

SprockCapnI was wondering about this too. Seems like you would have more room and not have to cut much if you flipped it so the outlets were not running into the frame rails.

Xanoknock sensor being bad seems like a thought, It probably DOES ignore it until up to temp, and then when it tries to read from it, its getting really off readings but not recognizing it as the sensor being bad.

On the car, man, I tell you what, i'm the only S12 driver around here, so I'm the only one that grabs parts off it.  When i get paid, I can head down there and try to remove it, I just dont know enough about it to actually get it off lol.

Well, while inspecting some odd fuel pump rattling noises and engine off pressure loss issues, I discovered that my fuel sender wire bulkheads are about to finally fail.
Great.

So, now I have to find some place that sells some wire stud bulkheads that I can use. And it's the weekend. Ugh.

iirc keith did something like drill out the rivets and run the wires thru with some sort of sealer, this might be an option...

Already got a fix!
I couldn't find anyone that sells an isolated bulkhead stud, so I hacked together one my self (kinda).

The hardware used: A rubber sided flat washer, a 1/4-20 well nut, 1/4-20 x 1" bolt (grade 8, but doesn't matter, that's just what they had  ), and some nuts.
(https://i.imgur.com/MkSsK5o.jpg)

Take the bolt, grind the head to remove the cad/zinc coating, get it nice and hot and sweat it with some solder, and solder a nice piece of wire to it (12ga wire, with a ring terminal on the end, in my case).
(https://i.imgur.com/bPf3UIo.jpg)

Then remove and drill out the original hole to 7/16", then put the flat washer over the bolt and screw into the inserted well nut until it's expanded well enough to seal.
(https://i.imgur.com/UX2POFR.jpg)

Then just make up some new wires with some ring terminals big enough for the new 1/4-20 studs, that are now sticking up from the sending unit.

Also, here's the monster Bosch pump that feeds my hungry SR:
(https://i.imgur.com/SCH7X7l.jpg)

Really sweet unit, flows more than a Walbro 255 and can produce enough pressure to run 5bar if you want! Not too expensive either, and is a perfect size for the S12's basket.

It's kinda funny, I didn't do a full rewire on the pump (just at the sender) and now my power band seems to be way more consistent.
Before at WOT it would kind of chug and fall, but now it holds power right to the rev limiter.

I think I'm going to do a full hard wire on it and see if it improves even more.

All I did was put heaver gauge wire at the pump and from the sender to the chassis harness connector.

Made a hard wire harness for the fuel pump, just gotta install it.

Also, my brother gave me a MegaSquirt 1 to play with... It's pretty cool, though honestly I'd rather stick with Nissan ECCS programming, just seems easier to me.
I think I'll make an adapter setup for it and try it out on the SR, but I might just use it on the KA when I get it put back together.

wait explian this fuel pump rewiring again.  it made the car run better?

Yeah, stock wiring isn't usually enough for bigger pumps and doesn't provide enough voltage.
Newer wire and heaver gauge allows more current and wiring it right to the battery (with a relay of course) gives more direct power, which will give you more constant fuel flow and pressure.

Got the hard wire done, works well. It MIGHT have made some change, but I won't really know until I do some data logging (CONSULT ).

Did an unscientific test, and did a 0-XXX pull between two 1/4 mile markers, hit around 110 crossing the marker... SO, if those are accurate, I should have just done a mid to low 13 sec 1/4 mile pass.

Neat.

cool man, so when are you comin down, I'd suggest sometime soon so you can get the ish you need before they end up crushing that car =(

Xanocool man, so when are you comin down, I'd suggest sometime soon so you can get the ish you need before they end up crushing that car =(

seishuku
I'm hoping soon... Seems like every time I get some extra cash, some bill pops up and takes it away!  
It's pissing me off... lol

I hear ya, they take FOREVER. They fucked up and tried charging us for an insurance policy that we never signed up for, then took 3 weeks to fix it.

That reminds me, I really need to replace my center bearing and bushing... My drive shaft moves way too much, though it isn't flopping around... Yet. U-joints are still in good shape!

Just a little change... Moved the fog lights:
(https://i.imgur.com/8yBGOvE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/85T3MkJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7rgf1a4.jpg)

is there no way to pull them out further so they sit flush with the grill?  it looks like they are a little in-set.

They are a little, but the reflections and shadows make it look worse.
I just happened to use the bolt that's already there for the headlight motor ground, I would just have to drill a new hole for it in the grill garnish.

cant wait to see this car again though man.  Theres a couple of roads around here you'd love to enjoy =P.

Yeah, soon I swear!

Now, if I could just find a 8x3 or 8x4 headlight housing... I gots an awesome plan!

A few new goodies:

Delrin bushed diff mount, to replace my hacked together solid-R200-mount-as-an-r180-mount.
(https://i.imgur.com/7FwPrLG.jpg)

And my spare R180 center welded up
(https://i.imgur.com/Qm4wgcD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FdYWVCw.jpg)

Not sure when I'm going to install the diff and try out a welded one for a bit, maybe this weekend if I'm not too lazy.