Matt's S12

Oh, I love TIG welding, that's what my welder at work is, I don't really care for MIG all that much, but I just don't care to ever weld over .5" plate ever again!

oh, i see. Well nice project but i got to get to work on mine hahaha. Good luck and ill be following along

(https://i.imgur.com/CTuZDzg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QOe027i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DPlFHzu.jpg)

im glad you replaced that wire with tube. i dont think wire would have braced anything well at all

In the right positions and setup, it could tension the chassis into being stiffer! But I like tubing better. :lol:

3rd gear carnage!
(https://i.imgur.com/9xeCNHj.jpg)
Two full teeth stripped off.

More to come as I get things broken down and taken apart.

chassis stiffening = transmission fatigue....i thought everyone knew this? jk jk jk.

You need to just give in, and find a way to put a Borg T5 in that thing. If that can't take the abuse, nothing will!

I'd really like a built tremic 6 speed, but that isn't gonna happen for a long time!

Normally these FS5W71C transmissions can take a bit of abuse (about 400 Ft/LBS), but only if the oil changes are kept up and heat kept down.
This stock trans I kept up on it with regular oil changes, donno if I ever got it really hot though, but who knows what the previous 4 owners did to it in the 100k miles that it had on it when I bought it.

This new trans should hold up for a long time (crosses fingers).

Anyway, I got everything swapped now (my upper body is KILLING me), just need to button a few things up still... Then a test drive!
Spent from 4pm to 11pm last night getting the bulk of it done.

Yay!
I did drive that tranny too... Not for very long, but I did, and it was better than the one in my S12.

(Mines getting all chewed up from the welded diff, boy can you feel the bitch buckle when turning slowly and not spinning)

Yeah, just got everything buttoned up, first drive... VERY smooth compared to the old trans. Seemed easier to get it sideways too, not sure why. :lol:

Here are the rest of the carnage pics
(https://i.imgur.com/hvFdErk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Lkq1xgL.jpg)

Edit:
Oh, thanks again Jay, you're a life saver! :D
We should be getting our taxes done soon, so we'll be able to pay you soon, hopefully sometime in the next few weeks.

Edit 2:
I also need to replace (at a minimum) the passenger side motor mount,  that apparently was leaking for some time now (leaving nasty stains on my cross member) and that I seem to have finished off trying to realign the trans and engine. :\

Tremec T56's arn't that great plus the heavy (130lbs) and Big in comparison of the ford Mustang T5 (75 lbs).  From what I hear its pretty stout and with the Quick Time bell housing adapter to allows you to adapt to LSx
I'm certain they could be convinced to make a bell housing adapter to fit to SR,RB,VG alike

more info about the tremec T56 also exploded view service manual.

^ agreed. 6 speeds are nice, but it's more than Matt will make use of. Besides, TKO's are so friggin expensive these days unless you can find one in the wrecking yard. Guess how often that happens?  :/

Like I said, probably will never happen.

More likely, I'll go with a FS5R30A out of a Z32 300ZX or where ever I can find one (tons of Nissans had them), or maybe a FS6R31A from a 350Z, but that's less likely to be found for cheap.

Went a little screw happy with making a new cover for the shifter...
(https://i.imgur.com/3DD9FkA.jpg)

Keeps the crap out and no breeze, and I could still go back to an S12 trans if I wanted to.

Yay for sub-panel in the garage!
(https://i.imgur.com/UtdY9m9.jpg)

It's a little rigged up right now, because I'm lazy and it's functional. I'll finish it later when it's a little warmer out.
Also yay for running my air compressor on 240volt (the outlet is a 120/240 one), it doesn't even struggle pumping up to 120PSI and recovers fairly well (for such a small compressor).

Photo dump
(https://i.imgur.com/mvg3ptj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Hu771BY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N6NMLRV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DrRQAJv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RiAK2UP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tvs4F83.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uWD2dOK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hIsoOaf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5MWiZnx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4KoSi8k.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wSD86dp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NLoRF6V.jpg)

Still need a few more tubes, and need to add connectors to bring it all together.

(https://i.imgur.com/VTY12CZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8HPoL8K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/roscd8A.jpg)

One of the tubes... Need the other two in, to form the X, then two forward tubes with connectors to tie it into the mid brace.

I already notice a difference, I can push down on one of the rear corners and the opposite corner comes up with great response, so it's obvious that it's stiffening things up.

Scratches in front main seal bore = fail.

That is all.

Sucks!

Is all that bracing needed? Wouldnt a cage have been easier?

Sure, if I could build a proper cage I would, but this works in the mean time.
Though there was talk about getting a mandrel bender at work, but who knows when that'll happen.

The biggest issue is the main hoop, which HAS to be one piece, and I don't have any legal way of bending it.

seishuku on 08:20:09 PM / 15-Mar-11Nick will be happy about this...
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/36-1.jpg)

seishuku on 08:20:09 PM / 15-Mar-11The biggest issue is the main hoop, which HAS to be one piece, and I don't have any legal way of bending it.

Meh, I don't like the fitment of the auto power cages, leaves too much space between the pillars and not enough head room.

I really don't have that much timing drift with cam trigger, even with only 4 trigger windows... Installing that filter cap on the primary trigger input helps a lot.
BUT, it's time to fiddle around with something else, and it would be nice to get rid of the distributor (it does get in the way sometimes)... Plus it's getting harder and harder to find consumables for it.

seishuku on 04:05:14 PM / 17-Mar-11 it would be nice to get rid of the distributor (it does get in the way sometimes)... Plus it's getting harder and harder to find consumables for it.

Which excuse? I have a lot of them. :lol:

I actually have a little cash, so I'm gonna order the VR sensor... I gotta find a place to get a pigtail connector for it though.

And a minor change to the reluctor wheel, after a little reading as to what's best to get a clean signal.
(https://i.imgur.com/GcEzaET.jpg)

Larger outside diameter (should come out to the edge of the balancer), taller/narrow teeth.
It's also now 3/8" plate, before it was 1/4".

Hope those little teeth give the sensor enough magnetic change to see, they sure look small. The teeth on my EDIS wheel are much larger, if I remember right the output is something like 10 volts AC. I suspect you'll see much less than 10 volts with teeth that small, but it might not matter if the VR circuit in MS is sensitive enough.

From what I've read, it's actually better to have a sharp point, to prevent trigger drifting (too wide of a tooth will cause random triggering as the tooth passes the sensor's magnet).
Though I agree, the tooth should be wide enough to disrupt the magnetic flux and generate enough voltage. With an 1/8" tip, it shouldn't be much of a problem though.

(https://i.imgur.com/RUVvWNw.jpg)

Yay

Now to build the bracket and mount the reluctor ring.

seishuku on 07:28:42 PM / 28-Mar-11(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/vrsensor.jpg)

Yay

Now to build the bracket and mount the reluctor ring.

Heh, oil leaks and VW's go hand in hand. :lol:

I don't like the usual sensor that comes with most EDIS sets, this one is a little more compact.
I know the potential of a crank sensor, it was just easier for me to mod the distributor than having to go through all this, especially when I was just setting up the 'squirt (it was pretty much turn key).

Yeah, bring that thing over... We'll get that tossed in and jack up the boost!

(https://i.imgur.com/YR5rMu4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5AYTIcw.jpg)

Just gotta mount the wheel

awesome
did you use the 4 tooth gap or a specific angle? how did you set your tdc???

It's 90 degrees (#9 tooth) from the missing tooth.

It's pretty easy to set it up, just set the pulley to the TDC mark then put the 9th tooth under the sensor.

Don't forget to shield those VR sensor wires with plenty of tin foil or whatever.

Yeah, I have some shielded twisted pair wire to use on it.

NIIICEEEE glad u finally decided to get rid of the distributor.. u'd be much happier... dont u think it might have bin easier/simpler to get a cam angle sensor.. and chip a DET computer?....or megasquirt

Nah, Megasquirt was way easier than tracking down all the DET electronics and pieces. Though I could have just used the CAS in my distributor, it's the same sensor and trigger disc.
But honestly, after spending a few years with Nissan ECUs and the programming on them, I feel way more comfortable with the MegaSquirt.
There just isn't enough documented on how the Nissan stuff works, it's all black magic that no one wants to share and that just pisses me off. Too many "trade secrets."

I will still have the distributor for a little bit though, but that's only because it's my only ignition source right now (internal coil and ignitor), but it won't be handling the triggering.

I do have new ignitor chips on order, so I can rebuild the coil harness and be distributorless.

seishuku on 04:21:30 PM / 01-Apr-11Yeah, I have some shielded twisted pair wire to use on it.

Aftermarket Ford F150 "coil-near-plug" type coils for the 4.6L (I think) modular engine.
They don't fit quite as well as I would like, bosch coils for VW 1.8T actually fit a lot better in the SR20, but these will do.

cars lookin good man, was good to see it in person again.

Thanks :D

Here's the final product:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ilwt2uK.jpg)

Notice, no AC, and no PS pully!
Biggest thing I was worried about was getting the rubber on the pulley too hot and causing it to delaminate, but I was able to take my time and get it all welded, even though it looks like crap... Welding 3/8" plate to cast iron isn't easy.

If I were to redo this, I would pick up an ATI fluid dampener, and make it a bolt-on reluctor ring.

seishuku on 06:05:12 PM / 03-Apr-11Thanks :D

Here's the final product:
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/2011-04-03175321.jpg)

Notice, no AC, and no PS pully!
Biggest thing I was worried about was getting the rubber on the pulley too hot and causing it to delaminate, but I was able to take my time and get it all welded, even though it looks like crap... Welding 3/8" plate to cast iron isn't easy.

If I were to redo this, I would pick up an ATI fluid dampener, and make it a bolt-on reluctor ring.

I did a quick sensor test, but no I didn't have the megasquirt running on it.
Even if it isn't quite where I wanted it, I can fix that by changing the trigger angle in MS... so its not a huge deal if its of a little.

(https://i.imgur.com/gc7aiNR.jpg)
Let's see if I can manage to not blow these ones up this time...
Also got my VR sensor conditioner chip.

It's not pretty, but it should work. Hopefully going to test it out soon.
(https://i.imgur.com/AkGUNrr.jpg)

APPARENTLY my fuel pressure was set to 70PSI and not 60PSI like it should have been (thanks Nick for fuel pressure gauge!), so I think that might have been a cause of a lot of my odd tuning issues that I've been having.

My new max duty cycle:
(https://i.imgur.com/RtJQfx5.png)

97% is still really high, BUT that's with a 9:1 AFR and before readjusted the fuel table... So it should be a lot lower than that.

Oh, and ignore the max values on DC and MAT, there were some comm glitches that screwed up those values.

Edit:
Oh, this all means I'm using all of the 528CC/min injector, which means I'm still making a buttload of power... How much exactly? I have no idea.

seishukuthanks Nick for fuel pressure gauge!

97% is still really high, BUT that's with a 9:1 AFR and before readjusted the fuel table... So it should be a lot lower than that.

Yeah, I've been meaning to buy that for awhile now. I used it for the initial tune, when he had the real-time stuff for free. Very cool piece of software.
I still use megatune logs and megalogviewer to do a lot of tuning too, since that has the ve analyser as well.