Matt's S12

I give that thing 2 weeks before your beat up a$$ diff destroys the hard drive.

Big BrotherI give that thing 2 weeks before your beat up a$$ diff destroys the hard drive.

I will have to check with a buddy of mine, but he had two computers that are designed for mobile applications such as this.  They were some sort of military grade design from several years back, so that means they are just above door-stop status now.  Might try posting up some info if he still has them.  I know he was looking to get rid of them, but had no luck last year...

On the HDD, mount the HDD on some type of non-solid mount

If it destroys the HD, I'll just toss another in... I have like 5 of them!
It's not like the computer is going to be solid mounted to the chassis.

but solid mount is so gangsta!

sam31183but solid mount is so gangsta!

Rivets FTW!!!

Stop working so hard Matt, your car is more important!

I know! I got bills to pay though.
And my damn usb serial adapter broke, and haven't had time to get a new one. How much did your rad-shack one cost?

seishukuI know! I got bills to pay though.
And my damn usb serial adapter broke, and haven't had time to get a new one. How much did your rad-shack one cost?

Can't run it in the car yet, still no automotive PSU. Otherwise it wouldn't be a huge deal.

seishukuCan't run it in the car yet, still no automotive PSU. Otherwise it wouldn't be a huge deal.

That would be cool.

It's just that sometimes I need to do a tweak with my laptop, because it may not have the same info that the carpc has, or a program that only my laptop can run (licensing conflicts), etc.

I think I'm going to look into that bluetooth RS232 module, it would be the best of both worlds. Wireless to the carpc, and I can still use my laptop!

I *SUPPOSE* you can have one of my Rad Shack adaptors, I'll try to remember to bring it next time we stop in Belwah. Hey here's an idea! I'll also give you a fuel injection computer, wideband sensor and intercooler too! Wait- I ALREADY HAVE!!!  Guess you can pay me back by finishing the floor in my Cooper.  

As for the supply for your onboard 'puter: why don't you just cascade a bunch of 7805's/7812's, and run it right from the car's electrical system? I suppose noise and ground loops would be the issue there, but you can always get a cheap inverter...

EDIT: I also just remembered that I have an HP netbook that crapped it's wifi ability the other day, it would be perfect for tuning. I'll bring that too.

Big BrotherI *SUPPOSE* you can have one of my Rad Shack adaptors, I'll try to remember to bring it next time we stop in Belwah. Hey here's an idea! I'll also give you a fuel injection computer, wideband sensor and intercooler too! Wait- I ALREADY HAVE!!!  Guess you can pay me back by finishing the floor in my Cooper.  

As for the supply for your onboard 'puter: why don't you just cascade a bunch of 7805's/7812's, and run it right from the car's electrical system? I suppose noise and ground loops would be the issue there, but you can always get a cheap inverter...

EDIT: I also just remembered that I have an HP netbook that crapped it's wifi ability the other day, it would be perfect for tuning. I'll bring that too.

Aha! Just what I was looking for!
http://www.freewebs.com/acselectronics/atxps.html (http://www.freewebs.com/acselectronics/atxps.html)

is that tig welding?

On what, the computer case? Yeah, that's all TIG welded.

Since I can do some more tuning again (thanks bro!), I worked on the timing map some.
Nick, you should like it a lot better than what I had, it does make a lot more power off boost.

I based it off Ben Fenner's VEMS SR20DE dyno tuned map, tweaked it here and there, since we have the same CR it's a good base, but minor differences because I have the intake cam phasing.
He says it made 150WHP, so I'm probably a little higher (NA) because of the cam timing.

http://www.msruns.com/download/file.php?id=6180 (http://www.msruns.com/download/file.php?id=6180)

(https://i.imgur.com/IxmSxtM.jpg)

I drilled and tapped it for -10AN o-ring fittings, I'm debating on drilling and tapping it for a 1/8" NPT or just use a -10 branch tee. I kinda want to use a tee, mainly because I really don't feel like drill at an angle and tapping a pipe thread.

seishukuSince I can do some more tuning again (thanks bro!), I worked on the timing map some. Nick, you should like it a lot better than what I had, it does make a lot more power off boost.

:lol:

That's how I have my Innovate LC-1 set up, I haven't touched it's software since I got the MS running. Plus I just have to push a button to do a recalb.
Just let me know if you need it back!

Xanorofl dude. it DOES love you.

Rofl, blood and thunder was my one main contribution, unfortunately im a WoW nerd Tongue

Workin' the paint... Finally.





What it used to look like, in the best spot. cheesy

Paint? Who TF cares what it looks like, where's the T3/T4 hybrid and ramhorn manifold???? wideeyed2

Bah, ram horns are for FailWD, I'd rather have this:


But I'm not coughing up $700 for one though.

I gotta get working on that manifold again.

Silly rabbit, you always want what you know you can't have! Here's an idea- stop procrastinating about how you always have ignition trouble and a small ass turbo, get off your duff and go buy the damn EDIS kit and a T3/T4 and beat off in your car because of how happy you are. It's not as hard as it sounds... and I don't mean the beating off either! idea

lol should a brother tell another brother to jack off in his car...who knows, but who am i to judge Tongue

I do enjoy reading the back and forth between you two Tongue

And no matter what he does with the car, its still at least double as cool as any of the other midwest S12's currently. lol

Got some new stopping power, not big brakes though (I wish!)

Bought some Bendix CQ ceramic pads, $50 for front and rear from RockAuto.
Stops much better than the old pads (super cheap Wearever I think), though I've discovered that there was still some air in my lines as the ceramic pads heated up the fluid and expanded an air bubble. cheesy
Minor issue.
The other issue I found, I need to rebuild the front calipers, piston seals are weeping and I have a torn dust boot. Normal for 20+ year old calipers.

It's hard finding decent front pads for the XE S12, as they got the smaller front calipers (rears are the same on all S12's, JDM, euro, US, etc), but apparently the 80's Maxima got the same front calipers and no one bothered to cross reference it to the S12 for some reason.

Anyway, they're a good mid point until I can get bigger calipers for the car.

i think at one point i was running 280zx pads in the front and z31 pads in the rear on my silver hatch a long time ago when it was still running with the 20e....but i am not 100% sure...and because of that i havent bought pads yet for the notch....if i remember right they where red stuff ebcs in the front and green stuff ebcs in the back...and there was zero issues installing them....there are also prolly still some aftermarket brake pads available for the 280zx and the z31 i would imagine as they are some what popular cars.....well popular when compared to the s12.

Hm, it's possible. Though the 280 does have a slightly different ear shape on the pad, but it may very well work.
I just needed something that would fit for sure, and cheap. EBC pads didn't totally fit my cheap requirement. cheesy

when i go to get pads i am going to do 280zx/z31 pads...if they dont work they wont work....but i am pretty sure they will fit....i forgot to check and see how much pad i had left the last time i took my wheels off though....

ill look tomorrow when i get to work and look at the pad difference and look at the caliper difference for yall cause i do work at an autoparts store i figure i can help out the community with a few things, sorry i have not been on in a while i had my kid and have been really busy.

electric exhaust cut out?

Nah, just manual for now. I might build a butterfly for it though, but those electric ones are expensive!

cable controlled butterfly valve works just as well.  Buy one of those oldschool push/pull choke cable type things (sold under "Help!"  brand at most parts stores)

seishuku on 11:42:54 PM / 24-Sep-10

I gotta get working on that manifold again.

Yea, maybe. I gotta find time to work on it again,

seishuku on 09:16:17 PM / 12-Oct-10Yea, maybe. I gotta find time to work on it again,

Flanges I made on our CNC plasma at work, the tubing and bends are leftover surplus from some project at work as well. Though I'm finding some of the bends aren't a tight enough radius to work nicely.
I need to get some steel donuts.

mazworx n a few other places that i cant remember off hand sells tight radius schedule

seishuku : Wery nice manifold you have on your S12 mate Tongue

tuhsty s-12 on 04:05:54 PM / 13-Oct-10mazworx n a few other places that i cant remember off hand sells tight radius schedule

s12sweden on 04:57:20 PM / 13-Oct-10seishuku : Wery nice manifold you have on your S12 mate Tongue

oh l hope you have a lot of money some day , so you can buy it

Well, the inevitable happened... My modified original (25 year old!) CA20E starter no longer correctly starts my SR.
It'll catch sometimes, but just enough to get some squirts out of the injectors and nearly flood it trying over and over.

It sounds like the bendix pops up, but the ratchet part is slipping or the gear isn't engaging (motor keeps spinning, but not cranking the engine).

So, I had to do what I didn't want to do, and that's cut the pinion support off my SR's original automatic trans starter (manual starters don't have it, and are internally supported).
It's working so far, but it'll eventually break too.

So how long do you think it will hold? Why not just run another modified CA20 starter and call it a day?