Donno, the planet gear support plate inside the starter is fairly thick, but it's also just cast aluminum, but I think if I can keep the crank priod short, it'll last long enough until I have money to buy a proper starter.
In the mean time, I think I can fix the CA starter. It involves some cutting and welding though and I would have to do it at work (haven't found the time yet).
So yeah, I could get another CA starter, but if I'm going to get a new one, I'm probably going to get one of those ISIS SR starters ($150).
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Matt's S12
seishuku on 10:28:40 PM / 19-Oct-10but if I'm going to get a new one, I'm probably going to get one of those ISIS SR starters ($150).
word.... this is wut i was thinking
seishuku on 04:33:27 PM / 10-Oct-10Neat thing about MegaSquirt, since it's a speed density fuel system, you can kinda see where peak torque is made, which on my SR is right around 5500RPM and that's right where my highest VE bin is on MegaSquirt. I gotta get this thing on a dyno, I really want to know what kind of power I'm making, and where I could tweak it to get a little more out of it.
You're up against 170+ in my 2500 lb Beetle, and that's before water injection and 18 PSI... It dyno'd at 150 to the wheels sucking in 250 degree air, I know it's more now that the CAI is installed. Time to play catch up! hehe
Well the 100% stock S13 SR20DET runs 205BHP at 7PSI, so given the higher compression and almost double the boost, not to mention the optimal timing compared to stock... It *should* be near 280BHP, though some days it feel like it's over 300. cheesy
I've weighed my chassis at 2330, though most of that is the front, your bug is a lot better balanced.
Hey Matt, what's with keeping everyone in the dark about launch control and flat shift??? idea
I thought I had a post saying I had it working the first time... Hmm, oh well.
I gotta make a video of it working, maybe a dual video, one in-car and one as a drive-by. I donno.
Well now that's a little scary.
Now how the hell did it get so lean?
Holy mother!!! that is FUCKING lean for WOT!!!
Also your duty cycle is at 85 while your AFR is over the top at 15+.... your duty cycle seems to hit a wall past at around 423s and levels out and even drops down as the rpm gets higher and the tps and manifold pressure are still maxed out... that is where the AFR gets wild... check your fuel map and enrich the bitch up
The weird thing is though, it wasn't like that on any other data logs, so I don't know what's going on all the sudden.
Unless I never hit those conditions or something else was covering it up, but everything else is consistent.
I gotta do another WOT pull and see what it's doing now, but it should be a lot better now.
Post Merge: [time]03:49:20 AM / 18-Nov-10 [/time]
Well it's better now, BUUUUUT... I think I might be maxing out my 450CC injectors. With only 11PSI from a T25G though? Maybe.
Post Merge: [time]04:00:17 AM / 18-Nov-10 [/time]
Heh, running a few numbers show that I may very well be maxing them out.
On the bight side, if that's true, I'm making a tad over 300BHP. On the other hand, that means I need to either drop boost, up fuel pressure, or get new injectors.
I probably will just up fuel pressure, 4 bar will get me about 520CC/min and a little more breathing room.
I guess I'll put some 800CC injectors on my xmas/tax return wish list.
Post Merge: [time]04:07:04 AM / 18-Nov-10 [/time]
UNLESS I'm getting misfires that are causing my wideband to read lean, but I'm not hearing any pops or surges that feel like a misfire.
Damnit, I need to get this thing on a dyno and see where I'm at exactly.
Post Merge: 05:30:50 AM / 18-Nov-10

Plugs look normal, a little more brown than I would like.
Plugs look fine to me... that is weird taking into considaration afr 15+.... but then, you are probably not running WOT at more that 6000rpm all day long Wink
Cheapest way is indeed to up the fuel pressure... check if your FPR is still doing it's job, maybe you tuned it with a certain FPR at that given manifold pressure, but now the diaphragm is getting lazy and not oppening the way it was when it was newer (less old Tongue)...
Heh, well that's just it, I may very well have been driving it like that for the past few weeks and I'm just now noticing it. Or maybe it's just that I haven't taken it that high up in the rev range to really notice lately.
Of course I don't take it that high usually, it only makes torque until around 5500RPM then levels off (stock cams), but I do like having the full range correctly tuned in.
And actually the FPR is a newer one off a KA I had in pieces, because the original SR one rusted out and was giving me trouble a few years ago... So I'm fairly sure that it's working correctly. (plus I'm lazy and don't feel like rigging up a pressure gauge again cheesy)
It is time to get an adjustable FPR though, I've been wanting to run 4bar anyway for better atomization to help smooth out the idle (which because of Megasquirt's batch fire, isn't as smooth as the OEM sequential system).
seishukuPlugs look normal, a little more brown than I would like.
Just remember: to get an accurate reading from the plugs, you must make a WOT run, shut the engine down as soon as you lift your foot, then pull them out. If the engine runs for any period of time thereafter, the readings are bunk and meaningless because the reading you are looking for will be 'covered up' by other operating conditions. It's entirely possibly to have massive detonation and completely miss it, because the aluminum flakes will get covered up by carbon very quickly. Also, a lot of the time you have to look at the plugs with a magnifying glass or very high resolution camera- the metal flecks left on the ceramic insulator are very small. If you're going to read plugs, I suggest you buy several pairs and cut them open after runs to analyze them completely. There's a tool to cut the treads off, it can be sourced through many speed shops or online.
As far as the AFR reading: your wideband mayby taking a sh!t. I've heard from more than a few people that the one you're using will give funky readings right before it buys the farm. Borrow my WB and bounce those readings off what you've already observed just to make sure before you assume something's gone horribly wrong.
One last thing: at 85% DC, the injectors are past the safe margin already. You need larger injectors... AND A BIGGER TURBO!!!!
I'm not worried about damaging anything at this point, it was 15:1 for very brief time, which yea could blow a hole in the piston, but with as cold as the air charge is and with the timing it's not likely to do anything.
I donno about the wideband, I suppose we could check it with your equipment and see how they match up. But everything in the VE table that hasn't changed is still reading the same AFR, so I'm willing to bet that it's reading correctly.
Yea, 80% is my usual safe zone, but at this point I would rather have a 100% DC and at least a 12.8:1 AFR instead of 15:1. Ya?
Anyway, next on the table is an adjustable regulator and bump it to 4bar, that should bring my DC down to near 85 or 90 and have a better AFR.
4 BAR fuel pressure here I come!
(https://i.imgur.com/uPSO9U8.jpg)
I just gotta make a fuel rail adapter.
Who makes that?
Looks Ebay to me.
I have one myself :P
If you wanted an SR Top feed. I have one. And DSM 450CC' injectors
;)
(Not going KA-T anymore. I don't think)
im pretty sure you can get an adaptor off enjukuracing.com for like 8 bux
But I can make an adapter for $0 :P
I already have 450CC sidefeed injectors, so those won't do a whole lot of good, plus I would have to tune the peak and hold PWM crap on MegaSquirt. :lol:
Yeah, it's an ebay special, they're cheap and I've inspected the design and quality of the part and I don't have any problems trusting my engine to it. It's a design that's pretty hard to screw up.
Post Merge: [time]05:36:57 PM / 28-Nov-10 [/time]
Well it's installed, I ended up just tapping the FPR port for 1/4" NPT.
The gauge on it ruptured though after a little bit, so I just pulled that off and plugged the port. It was a crappy non-liquid filled gauge anyway, wasn't really designed for this application, so no big loss.
ANYWAY, at 60PSI (a little over 4bar) it feels MUCH better, power is a lot smoother and pulls no problem at the top end.
Testing it out is fun, cruising on the highway in 3rd gear. :lol:
Post Merge: 11:49:27 AM / 28-Nov-10
(https://i.imgur.com/Ok70ZEJ.png)
I didn't retune it from before, so it's way rich at 95% duty cycle, but that will come down when the AFR comes back into normal range.
It's at least not leaning out. :lol:
seishukuI would have to tune the peak and hold PWM crap on MegaSquirt. :lol:
Sissy, I did it. lol
it's way rich at 95% duty cycle, but that will come down when the AFR comes back into normal range.
Bah, you could lose 2 whole points of AFR and still be very safe. Even after you pull fuel out though, I suspect you'll still be near 80% DC. That means you still need bigger injectors, so bust out the plastic card girlie man.
No, that just means I'm at the injectors limits, and will eventually need bigger injectors. :P
That can wait until I get a bigger turbo, it's pointless to even think about more power when it's winter out.
Either way, it's still fairly impressive for just a little T25.
The record for a T25G is like 278WHP (on a SR) I think, so I may very well be close or past that. At this point, I think it's dyno time.
When you need a new turbo.
I have some ;)
noooo jay! Those are for the probe!
The probes eventual future involves a KA, or something of the like....
;)
Plus. I get turbos all the time.
When it rains, it pours....
I think I cracked 3rd gear. It's making a GOD awful noise idling, and when in 3rd it makes a sharp popping. Yay.
seishukuWhen it rains, it pours....I think I cracked 3rd gear. It's making a GOD awful noise idling, and when in 3rd it makes a sharp popping. Yay.
Can't say I'm surprised honestly- the way you drive it, you should be breaking a lot more stuff. I can sympathize though, I'm having my own issues ATM: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=442350
Did I also mention that Jamie's Suzuki broke down recently, costing us an extra $400 we didn't have this holiday season? Yeah, that's what happens when an electrical short behind the fuse panel takes out your unobtanium coil pack, and you also have to pay the tow truck driver....
seishuku on 03:54:23 PM / 02-Dec-10When it rains, it pours....
I think I cracked 3rd gear. It's making a GOD awful noise idling, and when in 3rd it makes a sharp popping. Yay.
RB25det box time!
tuhsty s-12 on 04:54:59 AM / 03-Dec-10RB25det box time!Ha, I wish... Though I think I would probably use a Z32 gear box, but I can't afford that either.
Big Brother on 09:24:40 PM / 02-Dec-10Yea, I guess. I'm actually supprised that it lasted as long as it did, I mean it's only got 170K miles on it, and I'm putting roughly 3 times more power through it.
Can't say I'm surprised honestly- the way you drive it, you should be breaking a lot more stuff. I can sympathize though, I'm having my own issues ATM: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=442350
Did I also mention that Jamie's Suzuki broke down recently, costing us an extra $400 we didn't have this holiday season? Yeah, that's what happens when an electrical short behind the fuse panel takes out your unobtanium coil pack, and you also have to pay the tow truck driver....
That sucks though, have you done a compression test yet?
Maybe a bent valve? (can that happen on a air cooled vw?)
seishukuThat sucks though, have you done a compression test yet? Maybe a bent valve? (can that happen on a air cooled vw?)
No, I'll probably do it this weekend. I don't think bent valves are a possibility, they only open .424" so there's no chance of them contacting a piston even if the cam gears broke.
Hmm, that's really weird.
Well, after 380 miles and 6 hours, I have a low miles S13 KA trans, courtesy of Jay!
Now I just gotta get things swapped over. That'll be a fun 6 to 8 hours I bet. :lol:
Hey Jay, I forgot to ask, was that from a single cam KA?
and also a passenger door window? :D
Yes, and your door glass. :P
Well my plan on just swapping internals isn't going to work.
I was hoping that just the rear part of the output shaft would be longer than the S12's, but the speedo gear is in the wrong place too.
I think the internal shifter links are a little different too.
SOOOOO... I gotta either find an S13 front half, or cut and reweld my drive shaft (REALLY don't want to do that).
And I gotta cut my trans tunnel for the shifter too, didn't really want to do that either, but whatever.
On the plus side, the newer gear box looks pretty good, reverse is a little more chewed up than mine, but eh.
seishuku on 05:35:41 PM / 05-Dec-10Hey Jay, I forgot to ask, was that from a single cam KA?
No, it was originally a DOHC motor that was in front of that trans. The idiot just had a spare truck single slammer block laying around, and did that one
I missed what is wrong with your tranny apart from being blown.... because if your gears are all fucked up but the shaft are in good condition, you could use your original case and shaft (imput/output/counter) and just swap all the gearset/syncros/bearing over to your old tranny's shaft inside your old tranny case... it would take some time, but you won't have to source a driveshaft and cut your transtunnel...
(https://i.imgur.com/WpuZK4y.jpg)
All clean!
You forgot the differential, BTW
Yeah, I realized that after we were about 20 miles out. :lol:
Doubt it's going anywhere anytime soon. It got put back on the "shelf-o-diffs"
Say that out loud. It's kinda fun
I got one of those! It has an old disassembled R180 and a WRX VLSD R160.
Now you got a fusebox to install too, better get crackin'!
Bolt-in rear chassis bracing ideas
(https://i.imgur.com/2EnhEly.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/q5Df8it.jpg)
The B pillar bar might need to be set back a little more, and lowered slightly (so it could be used for shoulder straps on a harness).
The X bracing might be overkill, so maybe have one going driver's -> passenger's side, and the other passenger's -> driver's side? I donno.
Tubing wouldn't need to be very big, probably 1" or 1.25" OD, .065" wall DOM or ERW.
Obviously if you have a full cage or back-half/roll-bar, this isn't really needed.
(https://i.imgur.com/1j0jwY5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dVMoFbG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/klG8Z2c.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sPf3kbd.jpg)
Crappy cell pics, but you get the idea.
Still lots of tubing to go in yet.
Post Merge: [time]09:35:42 PM / 31-Dec-10 [/time]
(https://i.imgur.com/jzQ6vza.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4tFz9fE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MGraKNK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4TkY7s5.jpg)
Sheesh, good thing you'll never be taking this thing to a NHRA tech inspection- they wouldn't let you through the front gate with welds like that. lol
On his defense, He doesn't have a very good welder to begin with.
But I do have to agree. You've done much better with that same shitty welder.
And I don't like this picture especially. I could see that cracking/peeling from just body flex
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/BraceRearFoot.jpg)
is it just me...or do some of those pipes look galvanized?
I told him he could borrow my Lincoln MIG if he wants to, I even have a full bottle of gas and auto darken helmet!
sam31183 on 01:03:23 PM / 03-Jan-11is it just me...or do some of those pipes look galvanized?
Cough.... don't breath the fumes!
It's just chassis bracing, not a roll cage. Tech inspection wouldn't give two shits about it, now if I had a harness on it, that would be different!
It's also pull penetration (it's a 1/16" thick wall! derp!), they just "look" crappy because of the flux core wire and a little of the zinc that I didn't completely grind off. But I actually have to run a lower setting to keep from burning through, it's not my first weld by far ya know, I only do welding just about every day at work.
Post Merge: 04:37:38 PM / 03-Jan-11
Jay on 09:10:44 AM / 03-Jan-11On his defense, He doesn't have a very good welder to begin with.There's a fish plate under the tubing that's welded to the angle iron bracket, it's all tied together.
But I do have to agree. You've done much better with that same shitty welder.
And I don't like this picture especially. I could see that cracking/peeling from just body flex
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/BraceRearFoot.jpg
I'm sure all the points would eventually crack, but it's a 25 year old chassis, I got other areas to worry about cracking. :lol:
I hate flux core wire... but its the cheep alternative, and atleast you have a welder, I might buy one around my birthday. "I am going to" start making some bolt on stuff to make chassis flex a little less.
(forgot part of my sentence)
Oh, I'm actually certified to MIG weld up to 1" plate, and even though I'm not certified for it (because we weren't doing it at the time, and I'm not a full time welder) I've also TIG welded 1" plate.
I don't care to TIG 1" again any time soon though, it's a long boring process. :lol:
Just an FYI ;)
lol i am not certified, i am a welders helper up north in the oil patch, I do Arc welding. and i agree i am not a fan of TIG either. Fell in love with MIG tho lol.
Hope it works good