Remote mount turbo V6 project

Where on the engine are you tapping for feed and return?

ArroWhere on the engine are you tapping for feed and return?

mc, is that a powdercoat or just a straight up paint?

(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/IMG_0897-1.jpg~original)

..i took it out for a test run the other day to get some data[been a few months]....it has a new 0-60mph of 5.7sec....and was probably going to set a new low 1/4 mile time, but it blew the AFM hose connection...it was pulling strong at 12psi boost.

Put a little hair spray on the pipe then reassemble the connectors, they'll have a hard time blowing apart after that!

well when i built my turbo dsm that info would have been helpful (its a DSM for fucks sake) i blew the coolant return line off and my car ran hot and blew up ( i was doing about 140 at that time)

seishukuPut a little hair spray on the pipe then reassemble the connectors, they'll have a hard time blowing apart after that!

Yea, it works awesome in a pinch, especially when you don't have a tubing bead tool (I made one out of a old pair of vise grips). Pretty much glues the coupler to the tube.

(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/001-2.jpg)
VC200[late 80s]..accelerometer design ..it calculates HP/tORQUE/SPEED/DISTANCE/time .all through out a 1/4 mile run[or less]..I mounted it in the glove box.

..i need some of that hair spray they use on mohawks!!..the pipes will never budge!

This is Awsome, glad to see somone doing a remote mount here, I was led on to the stuff that STS was doing a few years back. I was and still am to this day curious to see how well a rotary, as in my FC Turbo, would adopt to a remote mount. Good job and keep it up!

I just picked up a 87 v-6 with Gopher here in Spokane. This thread has me inspired.

Jordan I can point you in the right direction for matching those front wheels.

Xanomc, is that a powdercoat or just a straight up paint?

definitely not powdercoated

awesome job dude.

..most definitely not powder-coated[LOL]...ACE HARDWARE cheap-o enamel....i pulled the valve cover off to mount the return fitting and hit it with a fast coat.

First i want to say thank you for doing this with your se. i have an SE also. i've been racking my brain trying to think of ways to make good power . arro tried telling me many times to read this post and today i finally sat down and read it all. I'm very impressed.
i still have to finish my vg but i would like to try this.

s12godFirst i want to say thank you for doing this with your se. i have an SE also. i've been racking my brain trying to think of ways to make good power . arro tried telling me many times to read this post and today i finally sat down and read it all. I'm very impressed.
i still have to finish my vg but i would like to try this.

yeah man we need some videos of your car. Yours is quite possibly my favorite SE, and if I ever found a killer deal on an SE (automatic or otherwise) I'd be strongly tempted to buy it and do this the same way you did.

Arroyeah man we need some videos of your car. Yours is quite possibly my favorite SE, and if I ever found a killer deal on an SE (automatic or otherwise) I'd be strongly tempted to buy it and do this the same way you did.

I picked up a Fluke 51 II DIGITAL THERMOMETER...its going to allow me to take accurate intake temperatures under boost...i'll mount the probe just before the T/B inlet...it should be intersting to see what boost temperatures are with the remote turbo...the Fluke has a peak hold function so it will store info without having to watch the meter.

Sweet!  I'm very curious to see this data...

Hey man after you take measurement temps at the TB, you should put it after the turbo's compressor outlet, and see how much of a temp drop you get down the length of the pipe.

...GREAT TOOL...THE SENSOR HAS A 0.3SEC RESPONSE rate....AND can record 32-1400 deg F...I'll be recording pre and post IC,ON/OFF ALKY injection aswell.

This will settle the question of do you need an IC for a remote-mount or not.

Is there any way to make some sort of electric belt-driven turbo spooler for when the exhaust pressure just isn't cutting it?

Could be on some sort of clutch-based system so that it kicks out when the turbo spools past a specific RPM range as to not burn out the motor.

This would probably help with the lag.

..here is a pix of the new thermocouple mounted in the elbow that feeds the T/B...the meth/alky spray nozzle is visible to the rear.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/002-4.jpg~original)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/003-3.jpg~original)

MC, so is the thermocouple before or after the spray nozzle in the airpath?

I really hope you do take temps from both the beginning and the end of the pipe.

..the TC is after the alky nozzle...this way it can record all variations[ALKY on/off...IC fan on/off]....i plan on mounting it in the rear but its going to have to wait till spring,its to cold now to be laying under cars.

Fair enough... if you can, mount it right *before* the IC, too, so you can see how much temp before/after IC, and how much temp coming out of turbo and before IC.

...my latest Ebay steal...its going to replace the small weak windshield washer pump i was using to pump the alky injection.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/021.jpg~original)

...ON/OFF SOLINOID..MCMASTER-CARR
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/001-15.jpg~original)

mc...my latest Ebay steal...its going to replace the small weak windshield washer pump i was using to pump the alky injection.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/021.jpg (http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/021.jpg)

what kind of tires are you running? as well as clutch?

im curious to what kind of performance you could pick up with more rubber

caraudiofoolerywhat kind of tires are you running? as well as clutch?

im curious to what kind of performance you could pick up with more rubber

i see

i just remember when you posted 1/4 mile times, you said your 60 foot time wasnt so good due to traction issues...

do you think its possible to break into 11s with good rubber and less weight? maybe more boost?

caraudiofooleryi see

i just remember when you posted 1/4 mile times, you said your 60 foot time wasnt so good due to traction issues...

do you think its possible to break into 11s with good rubber and less weight? maybe more boost?

...its a bosche bov...1" in/out...i'm going to mount it pre-IC.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/boschebov001.jpg~original)

(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/001-4.jpg~original)
...spliced in the bov...mounted pre-IC.

Any particular reason why you ran such a long tube to the BOV away from the charge piping? Why not extend the vacuum line instead?

-Dan

RB25sx - SLPRAny particular reason why you ran such a long tube to the BOV away from the charge piping? Why not extend the vacuum line instead?

-Dan

...i took the car for a drive and it really pulls hard ...it likes the alky injection,no sputtering,it just revs under boost...i need to pick up better quality hoses because they are balooning with this Shurflo pump.

Water injection at those pressures should only be done with proper semi-rigid poly tubing, like what's available from Dayco or Parker.
Also uses the nifty push lock fittings, makes changes real easy.

seishukuWater injection at those pressures should only be done with proper semi-rigid poly tubing, like what's available from Dayco or Parker.
Also uses the nifty push lock fittings, makes changes real easy.

FI hose works too, nice hose.
It's just too expensive if you're doing a trunk mount pump/tank (like I have), but then again, I use the push lock tubing for vacuum hose too (runs my BOV, wastegate, water injection boost switch, etc).

..i found a problem with the AFM being converted to a push through design in that the cover plate was being pushed out from the boost...i carefully pried out the plastic cover and scraped away the old sealant...i used JB Weld to seal it in place for good.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/001-5.jpg~original)

Wow, I just spent the last two hours reading all of this and all I can say is that's a SWEET setup! Well done, with lots of good ideas!

..I've been having alot of problems recently with hoses blowing off with the cheaper hose clamps,anything over 10psi wasnt holding anymore.,, these listed in the Mcmaster-Carr catalog...under 5.00 each...rock solid at 12psi again.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj192/dmc10132/001-6.jpg~original)

yeah T-bolt clamps are the only way to go with forced induction.

..i was able to tap into the AFM harness to check the output under various rpm...its a 300zx AFM[84-89 version],test was run in neutral/no boost data yet...i believe its a 0-7.12 volt output.
RPM   AFM VOLTS
800   2.53
1500  2.79
2000  2.99
2500  3.09
3000  3.24
4000  3.50
4500  3.60

..i tested the 300zx AFM output under 10-12psi boost and its 5.76-5.85 volt range.