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i picked up one of those Ebay T3 oil inlet flanges to help me reconfigure the oil feed...much better than the old leaky prior set up.....i ordered the muffler through JC Whitney..its a tube design with 3"in/out and 4" at its widest.its going to fit between the gas tank and the rear apron[hopefully?]....it should mellow out the turbo spooling noise that was getting annoying....i took some more pix and will get around to posting.
Mounted up that tube muffler I purchased from JC Whitney....it fits fine where i mounted it between the fuel tank and rear apron..it now sounds more like a throaty muscle car ...alot more enjoyable to drive now.
Not to much new to report...I decided to rewrap the pipe from the cat to the turbo...its now heavy insulated wrapped to retain the exhaust heat.I then wrapped the "wrap" with heavy foil HVAC tape to keep the exhaust wrap weatherproofed from driving in the rain...its holding up fine in this hot NY summer so far!!I picked up a set of 300zx turbo injectors to match the turbo ECU....I bought a spare upper intake and port matched it up to the 60mm Stanza throttlebody.I used a Dremel tool and carbide bit and easily opened up the inlet.I need to get these parts installed ASAP!!
Well, let me just say thanks for the updates, and if I haven't said it already, congradulations (been a while since I posted in this thread). For all the doubts that we all had, you made it work, and seem to be enjoying the fruits of your labor. This is a setup I never would have considered on anything other than a large cubic inch V8 car, but I have to admit, I've had thoughts of doing the same thing with my Maxima now. Makes it a lot easier because there's no permanent modifications you have to do, and if you don't like it, it'd be easy enough to swap out for the stock stuff. I'll be sure to update you all if I actually go through with it!
Joel07Well, let me just say thanks for the updates, and if I haven't said it already, congradulations (been a while since I posted in this thread). For all the doubts that we all had, you made it work, and seem to be enjoying the fruits of your labor. This is a setup I never would have considered on anything other than a large cubic inch V8 car, but I have to admit, I've had thoughts of doing the same thing with my Maxima now. Makes it a lot easier because there's no permanent modifications you have to do, and if you don't like it, it'd be easy enough to swap out for the stock stuff. I'll be sure to update you all if I actually go through with it!Thanks for the support...i noticed its the most popular thread here,its closing in on four thousand views!!.Definitely give it try on a Maxima[what year???]...i'd love some other vg30 installations of this mod....i really love driving it now since the muffler install.The pump was annoying initially but i figured it needed a free floating mount to make the vibrations /pump hum diminish.It can be such an inexpensive project if you look for the right parts/people.The Mocal pump can be replaced with a much cheaper Shurflo model[i'm happy with the Mocal though]...Ebay and Crowbar made this project happen.
I spent the past two days tearing down the upper intake,cleaning out the gunk,painting and replacing the injectors with the turbo set...installed the turbo ecu and it fired right up.It pulls so much harder now..Anyway, it is holding a rock steady idle and pulling over 20 on the vacuum guage.i need to adapt a couple more of the 300z turbo parts[idle and fuel ] to finish.
pics?
can u email any pics you have to [email removed] thanks in advance id love to see how this project is going.
EightySix200SXcan u email any pics you have to [email removed] thanks in advance id love to see how this project is going.yeah then you post them with photobucket
silvia loveyeah then you post them with photobucket
EightySix200SXyea ill do that... when there sentpix sent ...thx,mike.
chts:
I just read that chts are different on different 300zx year models.
For 1987 and later 300zx, the chts is the same as the 200sxse. Its output resistance follows what I posted above.
1986 and earlier have a different chts response. A few guys here run 86 300zx ecus. So I suppose they should use a correct chts for that ecu. The 87 and later is just a narrower range of resistance response. More than likely, there is no need to change.
fuel pressure regulator
The 300zx vg30et has a spec for a higher fp once the throttle is mashed. I suppose that means the fpr is different for a turbo. The 88 300zx turbo also has a surge tank somewhere in the fuel system. It gives capability to flow more fuel under boost.
It might be worthwhile to investigate the vacuum line control to the FPR in turbo cars. It appears to be different than a VG30e.
A neat trick would be to just have a means to cut vacuum to the FPR as a function of boost. This is done by feeding the voltage to the solenoid controlling the FPR vacuum. It just pinches off the vacuum. As the vacuum goes to zero, you get max fuel pressure.
G-Eactually the 87+ ecus have a failsafe so that if the chts is out of range (ie stupidly low or high) they will ignore it, unlike earlier ecus which will enrich accordingly to readingsthanks for posting some info...i might try bypassing the fuel solinoid just to see if there is much of a differance.
that's wrong, the vg30 fpr and I would assume most others uses vacuum or boost to soften or stiffen the fpr diaphram, as boost builds it increases fuel pressure by exactly that amount, and as vacuum increases fuel pressure drops..... except that it has a solenoid to prevent vacuum from making it too lean under certain circumstances, the solenoid isn't used during normal driving and the fp is always a fixed psi relative to the manifold
oh and z31 turbo and non-turbo fuel pumps are identical
Hope this works!!! this is MC's remote turbo. Slicker than goose poop.
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m288/sonuvaz/IMG_0795.jpg)
looks nice, so this thing im guessing is designed to remove the back-pressure in the exhaust? pretty ingenious idea, specially considering ive never heard of doing this before
SONUVA ZHope this works!!! this is MC's remote turbo. Slicker than goose poop.Pete...thanks for getting the pix linked!!
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m288/sonuvaz/IMG_0795.jpg)
awesome, how were running the oil/water lines?
are you going to intercool it? its looking pretty good.
rageawesome, how were running the oil/water lines?thanks, rage.. the oil lines were easy...i used regular 3/16"brake line replacement tubing and spliced it to the stock 300zx turbo banjo fitting that mounts on the block..i just carefully formed/shaped/tucked it up against the frame rails and zip tied it to the stock lines that run to the rear of the car...the return line feeds into the Mocal pump and 3/8" steel tubing/fittings/high pressure hose returns to the front of car...originally the oil entered back through the oil filler cap but now its through a added nipple on the passanger side rear valve cover...it looks cleaner now...No water lines were used for my turbo set up[my T3 wasnt equipped]..i really dont think there needed because the turbo run smuch cooler back there anyway!..no plans for intercooling yet,i use my simple alky/meth injector set up...and if i add a intercooler its probably going to be under the car and not up front.
are you going to intercool it? its looking pretty good.
you won't need a intercooler i did a sts project on my frieds 96 mustang. if you intercool u will have massive lag i tried it and its not needed.
panda s12you won't need a intercooler i did a sts project on my frieds 96 mustang. if you intercool u will have massive lag i tried it and its not needed.
panda s12you won't need a intercooler i did a sts project on my frieds 96 mustang. if you intercool u will have massive lag i tried it and its not needed.i wouldnt go with a front mount intercooler because it would just be adding more piping and this set up has enough of that already!....i might try one of those straight through types and mount it inline under the car,this way there is really nothing added...i can easily cut out a section of pressure pipe and splice in the intercooler...i'm sure there is enough air flow under the car to make it work reasonably effective.
mci wouldnt go with a front mount intercooler because it would just be adding more piping and this set up has enough of that already!....i might try one of those straight through types and mount it inline under the car,this way there is really nothing added...i can easily cut out a section of pressure pipe and splice in the intercooler...i'm sure there is enough air flow under the car to make it work reasonably effective.
Jsvob03i know its even more custom that the Remote Mount, but what about a Top-Mount Intercooler like on the Suburu's? all you would need is a hole in the hood, piping, and you're set. just a thought...nice idea,i do have a spare hood now to customize...but i would think the intercooler would get heat soaked rather fast mounted above the engine.
mcnice idea,i do have a spare hood now to customize...but i would think the intercooler would get heat soaked rather fast mounted above the engine.
Get some thermal wrap for you exhaust mani's and heat soaking should be a problem at all.
Jokes801tmcGet some thermal wrap for you exhaust mani's and heat soaking should be a problem at all.Heat wrap the whole engine for that matter!!!it just seems the intercooler wouldnt be effective enough located there...i would think the combination of radiator and engine heat under a hood scoop intercooler set up has to many drawbacks.
Why intercool? I'm sure the length of pipe running up to the front is catching enough cool air. If the temps are still a little too high for your liking just JB Weld some aluminum fins to the charge pipe and really make it an intercooler. Or you could even go hi-tech and get some Devcon Aluminum Putty but, that stuff can get expensive. Any metal filled epoxy is going to work fine. Just don't dig yourself into another pressure loss with an intercooler, you might not even see a gain.
If you don't believe me about the JB Weld or aluminum putty, check out this website.
http://www.heatsink.com/ (http://www.heatsink.com/)
It's ERM Thermal Technologies, better known around here as Eastern Rochester Manufacturing. Major supplier of heatsinks to the medical industry for MRI's and CAT scanners. I used to run CNC's there and all of our aluminum heatsinks had bonded fins(copper are soldered). The girls in the back would slop on some putty, stick the fins in and throw them in a huge oven overnight. Works like a charm. But honestly, their putty is low-tensile, if you try hard enough you can yank a fin out. They use JB Weld on smaller stuff and you'll tear the aluminum before you get the fin out.
Cavi MikeWhy intercool? I'm sure the length of pipe running up to the front is catching enough cool air. If the temps are still a little too high for your liking just JB Weld some aluminum fins to the charge pipe and really make it an intercooler. Or you could even go hi-tech and get some Devcon Aluminum Putty but, that stuff can get expensive. Any metal filled epoxy is going to work fine. Just don't dig yourself into another pressure loss with an intercooler, you might not even see a gain.nice idea..i might actually try attaching some aluminum fins to the charge pipe.
If you don't believe me about the JB Weld or aluminum putty, check out this website.
http://www.heatsink.com/ (http://www.heatsink.com/)
It's ERM Thermal Technologies, better known around here as Eastern Rochester Manufacturing. Major supplier of heatsinks to the medical industry for MRI's and CAT scanners. I used to run CNC's there and all of our aluminum heatsinks had bonded fins(copper are soldered). The girls in the back would slop on some putty, stick the fins in and throw them in a huge oven overnight. Works like a charm. But honestly, their putty is low-tensile, if you try hard enough you can yank a fin out. They use JB Weld on smaller stuff and you'll tear the aluminum before you get the fin out.
mcPete...thanks for getting the pix linked!!Its been to long since I updated this thread.I was able to get some accelerometer based[vc200] timed runs.Its not drag strip accuracy but it'll have to do.Some of the car magazines used to use the VC200 years ago.Anyway, the 0-60mph is in the 6.6-6.7 sec range..Its recording 235hp.
Wow! - that's fast dude!
Might want get some seat covers! Good job!
pimp car. that was my second thought after I read that a z31 turbo engine wont just drop in with no mods...my car has like no lag it gets on my nerves some when I just want to keep up with traffic and it starts spooling but I wouldnt imagen that that would have too much lag... maybe I should add a FMI/C to my car to add some lag... lol. but yea if you used stock engine it should have more power than my engine being that you have 9 compression... I have my t3 turbo set at 13 PSI non intercooled it does fine... and i live in the South
...time for a update...the weather in NY started to get better, so I decided to reroute the cold pipe so it runs under the rear cross member instead of over the top...the cold pipe hangs low a little more now but it allowed the elimination of almost 2 ft of the cold side pipeing....its a more straight shot feed to the front of the car now...i also decided to header wrap the pre-cat down pipes..all of the hot side pipes are now fully wrapped....the car is much more responsive now with these changes.I need to get it state emmisson tested again[expired] and then get some new 0-60mph times..i want to get under 6 seconds!!
mc...time for a update...the weather in NY started to get better so I decided to reroute the cold pipe so it runs under the rear cross member instead of over the top...it shows alittle more now but it allowed the elimination of almost 2 ft of the cold side pipeing....its a more straight shot feed to the front of the car now...i also decided to header wrap the pre -cat down pipes..all the hot side pipes are fully wrapped....the car is much more responsive now with these changes.I need to get it state emmisson tested again[expired] and get some new 0-60mph times..i want to get under 6 seconds!!what part of ny do u live in cuz i live in NY i would definately be interested in doing this project....maybe we can hook up on a weekend if i assemble all the parts and u can help me do this...since youve already done it just a thought thx.
mci live in Queens,11422...Mapquest and see how far/close away.hah no shit....my dad lives in New City....your like 20 mins from him sick...so if i come down i can stay with my pops! If your interested....im serious about this im gettin like 800 from my taxes and thats what i was ganna use to do this project...maybe you can PM me a parts list so i can see if i can start gettin some pieces. Also i work for advance auto so...i think i might be able to do this a little cheapter than you did employee discounts are the shit
...I took it in for its annual state emissions check-up..it is now using a 1986 300ZX turbo ECU and matching injectors, which was differant than last years check-up run with the 1986 300zx N/A ecu/injectors with the T3 installed...anyway, the good news is the car once again passed the dyno emission test..
LIMIT HC 0.80 CO 15.0 NOx 2.00
RESULT HC 0.69 CO 02.4 NOx 0.28
..These readings are almost identical with the prior year...the HC are slightly higher..the test was run with the intial timing set at 17 degrees and idle steady at 800rpm...next year, i'll knock the timing back to 15 and it should pass much cleaner.
New mod plans for this spring/summer..I recently found a rear with 3.54 gears out of a 84-86 300zx turbo..it will help the turbo spool up faster being it puts an additional load on the engine...i also picked up a intercooler from a SVO Ford..nothing fancy,2"in and 2.5" out, its going to be mounted where to stock air filter box used to be located...it fits perfect with the way my pipes feed into that area of the car..i'll be using a couple of fans mounted on the intercooler to keep it cool...i'll mount the 300zx hood scoop above it to help move air into its core.
I understand how 3.54 gearing will help the turbo to spool faster, but you will probably still accelerate slower due to the higher gearing, than you would with 3.90's. I don't see the point to that change, unless you're just looking for a better highway cruising rpm or a higher top speed.
...I'm trying to build the boost up as soon as possible by being able to keep it in each gear longer before having to shift gears..the faster the boost comes in, the more power potential..right now,first gear is over to fast using the 3.90 gears...there is no time to build boost,its a quick shift to second gear and it gets annoying...anyway,other sites doing this remote turbo set-up are showing nice improvements by swapping in economy gears[2.73-3.55]..they say the extra load really wakes up a remote turbo system..the better highway cruising is a big side benefit with the price of gas as well...and its easy enough to swap back if the car doesnt respond.
Ah yes, I hear that. First gear is much too short in these transmission. My Z32 Twin Turbo is the same way, even with 3.69 rear gearing - first is useless. Having a useable first gear would help. I'm interested in your findings once you get it in.
SpooledAh yes, I hear that. First gear is much too short in these transmission. My Z32 Twin Turbo is the same way, even with 3.69 rear gearing - first is useless. Having a useable first gear would help. I'm interested in your findings once you get it in.i've had the 3.55 rear in for a month now...it can now hit 4 lbs boost in first gear ,and the gas milage on the highway is close to 30 mpg...its nice to be able to keep it in first gear much longer...my only complaint is launching the car, you have to rev higher before you let the clutch out in first gear ...the car bogs off the line if you dont get the rpm just right.
additional mods update...i replaced a 6ft section of flex pipe on the turbo cool side with a aluminum tubing[2"]...it transfers out the heat better than the stainless steel flex pipe and flows better because there are no internal ridges....i spliced in a Ford SVO intercooler,its a 2" in -2.25 out unit ...its mounted where the stock 200sx air filter would be mounted...i'm using two small fans mounted on its core and foam baffling to force direct cool air from behind the drivers head light...seems to work pretty good for a simple addition...to fit the IC better in that location, i converted the car to a electric fan from a Mecury Mystique,its a decent fan[single with shroad]..its mounted offset to the passanger side and surprisingly picks up a couple of the radiator mounting points.
Need more pics my friend.
i added an additional electric fan from a four cylinder 200sx[10" diameter]...its mounted in front of the radiator and pushes the air through...i wired it into the stock SE radiator sensor[194 degree turn on]...the SE cars have all the mounting holes[3] provided so its a easy upgrade/mod ...i only had to extend the fan shroad a couple inches to have it butt against the radiator because my car isnt equipped with a a/c evap...it pushes air hard enough to feel on the other side of the radiator.
..my original radiator developed some pin hole leaks and i decided to have it re-cored...it looks and works like a brand new piece...i've been getting some decent run data on the set-up using the VC200...practicing on the launch technique is paying off...i have the manual boost controller dialed in for 9psi..the Begi RRFPR is set to add minimal assistance until upper boost setting[on-set screw is out/counterclock-wise]...the meth[HEET] injection kicks in round 7 psi..Initial timing is set at 23-24 deg advance...93 octane fuel
1/4 MILE 14.36@104MPH
0-60MPH 6.1sec
0-30mph 2.5sec
That's pretty decent! I would very much like to see some pics of this, do you have a cardomain or photobucket site at all?
200sxkitcarThat's pretty decent! I would very much like to see some pics of this, do you have a cardomain or photobucket site at all?...sorry no photobucket...just this lame diary.....anyway,i figured out why i was having such a hard time launching the car,the BegiRRFPR was making it to rich to soon....i had thought it was the 3.55 rear installed in the summer was causing the bogging....played with the Begi settings and its back to tearing the crap out of that one tire!!it has now dropped the 0-60mph time to 5.9sec....IT REALLY NEEDS A L.S.D.
Or welded diff lol! If you get me those pics, I'll throw them up on the net and link them here. If you've got pics of various angles and the pipe running front/back that would be cool
200sxkitcarOr welded diff lol! If you get me those pics, I'll throw them up on the net and link them here. If you've got pics of various angles and the pipe running front/back that would be cool..welding up the diffy is an option[low buck is what this thread is all about!!]..the drop in 240sx lsd for the open rear is about $850[aint happening]..i have been reading on adapting the Q45/J30 VLSD rear guts[easy to find/cheap] into our r200 pumpkin...the hard part is making hybrid rear cv axles by morphing the 2 cars cv axles[not really difficult, but its a unknown as to how tight the fit to get the hybrid axle back in place]...anyone interested go to Z31PERFORMANCE.COM..its a sticky in their drivetrain section....i'll send you pix of the project..thx,mike
Cool. I have a Q45 LSD available to me, and the CV axle end thing was a concern. I will get your pics up and linked, keep looking for some underbody/rear shots
200sxkitcarCool. I have a Q45 LSD available to me, and the CV axle end thing was a concern. I will get your pics up and linked, keep looking for some underbody/rear shotsi'll send a shot of the engines two exhaust downpipes that are fully heat wrapped, as well as the turbo return cold side pipeing returning from the rear turbo..it'll show how the cold side return "snakes" around the lower steering linkage /tranny/down pipes..thx,mike.
I have the pics he sent me uploaded to my photobucket thing, clicky (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee276/Sterlingps12/)
I will link them here eventually. I would really like to see a pic of the turbo mounting itself, have you got any of those?? Thanks again!