Remote mount turbo V6 project

I was finishing up the wire harness today, when I realized one of the AFM wires is a silver shielded wire.I cut a piece open and its silver/aluminum colored stand wire covered with insulator within another spiral of silver wire/insulator.The other 5 wires were copper strand wire.Crowbar, can these two inner/outer wires be soldered as one and connected with a length of copper wire?????Or is shielded wire needed for this connection because it has to be separate??THX

Its shielded.  The internal wire carries the signal.  The shield captures spurious noise and runs it to ground.  They are never to connect.  You will blow something if you do.

Thanks....I finished the harness with a shielded wire.UPS dropped off the pump so I scouted out locations on where to install. I\'m going to try the rear drivers side for now.Its next to the turbo so the oil lines are a easy hook up.Picked up some  hard 3/8\" line to run the oil back up front...... also have to look into where to tap into the ignition electrical for the pump.I got a boost/vacuum guage and found a port on the intake to mount the nipple...almost there.

E-Mail me the pics or hit me up on AIM, I\'ll host the pics for you. I was thinking remote turbo myself, I\'d like to steal..er..see your idea. :wink:

*edit* Sh!t, check out [url]www.dragNY.com[/a] while you\'re at it, you\'re from NY. We like members with intelligence and creativity.

Why not have a separate oil tank for it? Seems to me it would be better, being cooler oil and all and you wouldn\'t have to run it ALLLLLL the way back to the engine.

Just a thought.

I was assuming that\'s what he was gonna do, and get a nice little cooler(like the rx-7 one that kid is selling on here) yeah baby.

It was suggested before[CROWBAR] about the rear oil storage but I decided to go with mostly hard lines from and to the engine. I laid them out on the inside of the frame rails.I was running out of locations to mount a reservoir in the back anyway....CaviMike,I sent a picture.thx.

I\'m hopeing the flex pipe holds up...if not, I\'ll drive it to a shop and have them follow my pattern...we\'ll see soon enough.....Today I drilled the 4 holes needed to mount the pump and its now in place.Connected the turbo drain out to the pumps inlet with high pressure/temp 3/8\" hose.I started on the pump outlet with  some custom bent hard line to get it over the differential and down to the frame rail....its a pain in the ass....finish that up tomorrow.[hopefully].

It\'s mostly because by doing it this way, there\'s a minimal amount of custom parts that need to be made.  No custom manifolds, no serious hacking of engine bay components, and if you ever need to sell the car, it\'d probably take about an hour to take the whole turbo system off and turn the car back to stock.

So let me get this straight.. Your adapting a turbo to the end of a really thin exhaust to minimise lag, extending the harness and mounting induction behind the diff?
I still dont get how it works, wheres your intercooler? and return to throttle etc :|  is it just me that thinks this is weird? good job tho - its definatly interesting

I finished up the return oil line today. Bent the hard line\'s so it runs over the rear and comes down and follows the passanger side frame rail and up to the oil cap filler.I spent some time readjusting the exhaust hangers to give alittle more clearance around the AFM. I have to pick up some header wrap to cover the exhaust where it runs near the AFM. Tomorow I  have to run 12v to the pump.I have a relay from a oldfan controller.Any suggestions for the switched lead??Also,what is the best spot on the firewall to pass the tubing through for the boost guage???

I don\'t know the diameter of the lead for the gauge, but if it were me I\'d use the hood realse gromet if the lead is small enough. It\'s easily accessable and high enough if you want to run it to the A-pillar.

Thanks for the grommit idea...it works fine.Finished the installation last night.Started it up today.Fast idle works decent.No   major oil leaks or wierd intake/exhaust noises.Retarded the timing to 10* just to be on the safe side and had to reset the idle speed because it dropped down.Driving it Feels great.The power comes on gradually and the sound of the turbo spooling is too cool.....driving around normally feels just like before I did anything....I have to get a better quality boost guage because this one is reading close to 30 on vacuum and that is 5 -7 lbs higher than on my good Sears vacuum hand pump.I\'m getting 2-3 lbs boost with this guage[ i\'m glad I have the 5 speed]....i have to pick up a manual boost controller and read up....its been raining here hard all day so I cant really get on her but the rain hasnt been a problem with the air filter in the back....it doesnt sound to bad without a real muffler.....the electric oil pump is noisy and i\'ll be looking into ways to quite the hum.....remote mount complete.

..i\'m going to be picking up a Tilton electric differential oil pump....it has been used by others with good results....it\'s a little pricey but everything else sofar has been cheap good junkyard stuff.....I have a 5 speed so hopefully I can compensate for any lag[we\'ll see]....I test fitted the pressure pipe up to the T/B and it fits up the drivers side of the engine with no problem.Plenty clearance past the steering shaft as well.I \'d post pictures but Ihave no luck linking them up.I can e-mail if someone else wants to post them.

I can host them for you.  Please send the pics to [a href=\'[email removed]\'][email removed][/a] 8)

When I post pics here I use my yahoo geocities site. I post the pics there and then do a copy and paste the get them here. Works like a charm, just can\'t be huge pics.

Awesome!  Glad to hear it\'s running!  Looking forward to some more driving impressions, and then maybe some dragstrip times!!  ;)  So is the flex pipe leaking?  I\'m guessing not if you\'re getting any boost at all...

I still dont get how it works, wheres your intercooler? and return to throttle etc  is it just me that thinks this is weird? good job tho - its definatly interesting

The flexpipe seems fine....its a marine grade stainless steel type..I am only using regular hose clamps on the end\'s of the pipe[three in a row] and they seem to be holding what little boost it has made....the return pipe to the t/b never gets that warm so I really dont think a intercooler is necessary at this time.....The spooling sound is priceless.

Is the wastegate adjustable?  Also, what kind of BOV are you using?

...its a stock internal T3 wastegate and no BOV yet....i am looking into a eclipse bov for now[cheap/reliable] and than a manual boost valve...took it out for a drive and was able to hit 5 lbs boost with this guage....it feels good.

I cant believe someone actually did it... hows the increase in performance? After everything said and done what was the total cost of the project.

If you are lucky enough to get a ball bearing type turbo, you could save even more on a project like this.  A ball bearing turbo would not need the expensive electric pump that mc bought.  It could use a stand alone type system built around a diesal fuel pump and use a lighter lubricant like jet engines use.

Yeah, but most ball bearing turbos would offset the cost of that pump quite a bit...  ;)

Well, If you go to \'pick-em-apart\' type junkyards, you can get pretty lucky.  I have found everything from superchargers to CD collections to weapons to expensive electronic diagnostic eqpt (which I just walked out with and claimed it was my own tools).

It killed me to spend 180 bucks for that pump...damn car only cost 350!!!anyway, I\'m happy with the results....i spent today taking the turbo back off and installing a better inlet flange as well as repositioning the turbo so it sits up higher...removed the muffler\'s heat shield and you gain alot more room...it allowed me to tilt the turbo more so the oil outlet is facing further downward[better drainage]....it looks better back there now[not so obvious that a turbo is hanging off the ass]...i might follow Crowbar\'s suggestion and downsize the inlet pipe to 2\" from the 2.5\".....and i need to pick up a cheap bov.

I started a post like an hour ago, but it timed out and I lost everything I typed and I got REALLY ****ING PISSED, but I\'ll sum it up quick without quotes and I\'ll give you my quick advice;

Intercoolers are NOT necessary

MC, when, I emphasise when you run a hard pipe from the turbo, use 2 inch pipe. Less lag, less pressure loss.

In the \'lost\' thread, I had a link to another project car (not STS but someone like mc) and its actually best to go with a smallish exhaust (2\"-2 1/8\") and a slightly larger output pipe (2.25-2.36\").  Over the distance from cat to turbo, it makes a difference in overall volume/velocity of the exhaust gases.  And the exhaust gases are running the turbo.  Decrease the exhaust pipe, get better response.  It is probably a good idea to go stainless for the exhaust pipe.

I never for a second doubted that this would work.  As long as you do not go ape-sized on the turbo, and keep the pipes small, you will get performance.  I bet even better mileage.  I would not back the timing back that much.  Somewhere between 15-20 degrees would be about right.

I have BOV and other turbo parts.

What is your total outlay for parts at this time?

T3 turbo with oil lines/fittings/ tb inlet pipe 100.00.....Mocal pump 180.00.....stainless steel flexpipe 25 ft 50.00....3/16\" brake line 25 ft roll/fittings  25.00...12/14 guage wire 10.00...clamps/hangers/brackets 15.00....shielded wire 5.00....hi pressure 3/8\" return hose 5.00....more or less this is everything.....i have enough extra to do another car.

In the \'lost\' thread, I had a link to another project car (not STS but someone like mc) and its actually best to go with a smallish exhaust (2\\\"-2 1/8\\\") and a slightly larger output pipe (2.25-2.36\\\").  Over the distance from cat to turbo, it makes a difference in overall volume/velocity of the exhaust gases.  And the exhaust gases are running the turbo.  Decrease the exhaust pipe, get better response.  It is probably a good idea to go stainless for the exhaust pipe.

I never for a second doubted that this would work.  As long as you do not go ape-sized on the turbo, and keep the pipes small, you will get performance.  I bet even better mileage.  I would not back the timing back that much.  Somewhere between 15-20 degrees would be about right.

I have BOV and other turbo parts.

I am beginning to wonder if a BOV is even needed.  Mainly because of the extremely large volume that is being pressurized.

I am beginning to wonder if a BOV is even needed.  Mainly because of the extremely large volume that is being pressurized.

The basic STS kit does not include a BOV

I was reading in the Chilton book on the 81/82 280zx turbo cars use a device called VCV[vacuum control valve] or deceleration control system.Seems this would be a easy way to add cheap bov benefits....it threads into the 280zx intake but I would install before the t/b....its similar in size to a pcv....any thoughts???..........i up\'d the initial timing to 15* and it feels great and smoothedout the idle to rock steady....pulls 25hg/vacuum at 850rpm.

the larger the volume the more a bov is needed if you want to reduce lag between shifts and damage to the turbo

Its volume but yes its acting like a big spring.  Unless mc finds an adjustable wastegate that starts upping his boost levels, I would wait till other developments like the smaller exhaust tube, timing, etc.

About the STS, is it a draw-through system?

I was in Home Depot today and noticed they sell a ceramic type thermal wrap for insulating hot and cold application[pipes/heat ducts,etc]..much cheaper than header wrap..its good for up to 180*.Anyone think this will hold up to after the cat convertor up to the turbo??

Just wanted to post that if you have A/C system there is plenty of room  for this mod.The t/b feed pipe would clear the back of the compressor with no problem.Also it would fit on the auto cars.

Man....after you get all the bugs worked out you need to get this thing on a lift and take some good pics.

The CAT generates heat in addition to the normal exhaust temp.  In the summer it would get plenty hot.

an interesting home project

[url]http://members.shaw.ca/toymr2/Handcrafted_Air-to-Water_IC_Project.htm[/a]

An interesting 'cool' product..wrap around intake pipe?

[url]http://www.techniicealaska.com/instructions.htm[/a]

Sorry it took me so long to post this for you...
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/teamfrost/IMG_02031.jpg)

Got any complete pics yet?

Is turboed air going into the valve cover?  What effect will this have on the PCV?    I suppose it will 'feel' it on both sides but the additional piston 'draw' will make the difference?

I like the fact that for the blown air theres a much wider path to take those final turns.  It actually looks better than many stock cars intake path.

Perhaps some heat wrap for the intake near the exhaust?  I would not want the steady state exhaust heat to get to the intake pipe.

Is turboed air going into the valve cover? What effect will this have on the PCV? I suppose it will 'feel' it on both sides but the additional piston 'draw' will make the difference?

I think the CA18ET is setup the same way isn't it???

...or find some sort of 1-way check valve?!