JZ S12 BUILD, RIP 2012

20 seconds into the video you fail! Getting used to the new clutch? Haha.

sounds like a beast for sure

leave it as it is...it looks pissed off! this is page 69 btw...lolz.

its a factory catch can/breather box. use it.

headlights

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4156.jpg)

hell yeah dude!  badass!  looking forward to some super legit slide vids!

this shit is epic.

grats on the startup

demonic s12this shit is epic.

grats on the startup

solid 13second car.  nice.  http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm (http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm)

How is your rear suspension handling all this new power? Didn't you still need to upgrade that eventually? I remember you talking about that awhile ago.

RedneckHow is your rear suspension handling all this new power? Didn't you still need to upgrade that eventually? I remember you talking about that awhile ago.

have you done subframe bushings yet?

brewster240have you done subframe bushings yet?

Just have to say Freaking awesome David! Sad thing is you have completed two swaps in the time i have not completed one lol. Anyway looks and sounds great, any future plans for the swap?

David B : l like Datsun symbol on your S12

Jay^Although there are no subframe bushings on a SRA, I second this comment as it is probably the 4 link bushings.

Mine does it too, and the bushings are the culprit. Only happens when accelerating and up shifting hard/during clutch kicks.

I'm still working on some kind of solution for it though. I might end up turning some delrin on the lathe later on once I get the axle off to weld the diff. I will have a solution for ya in that department, as windo-weld doesn't have a high enough of a shore rating (I think it's around 30 if I recall correctly) for it to be of any significant durability. I have a couple ideas floatin around in my head for it. but I must test em before I give any verdict

A panhard bar would be of zero use

NissanNateJust have to say Freaking awesome David! Sad thing is you have completed two swaps in the time i have not completed one lol. Anyway looks and sounds great, any future plans for the swap?

s12swedenDavid B : l like Datsun symbol on your S12  

oh yeah forgot this was solid axle.

did you put the breather box back on yet?

dont do it for me, do it for you car/engine.

David Bisnt there a link for aftermarket links? they were expensive though.

can i go with solid bushings? like washers and shit, metal to metal? i dont mind added noise. as long as it doesnt harm my chassis

I'm diggin the headlight setup!

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4165.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4161.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4163.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4164.jpg)

bad ass.

MORE PICS

7 psi?

ur gay again

12psi all day no worries.  its not even fast

7 psi, with the clutch i have, and some fine suspension tuning will keep me reliable.

id like to go to ten, once i get more cool gauges to let me know wtf is going on

by the way, i have a adjustable wastegate actuater......

maybe hold 300 if you drive like a girl.

there is a lot of abuse on a clutch when drifting.

Uhh.... It took 4 years to do anything to my SR at 12PSI, and my stock clutch held just fine, I put a ton of abuse on my clutch too.

Though with the stock 370CC injectors, it does start to run 100% duty cycle (though keeping an 11.5:1 AFR), but if you don't bounce it off the rev limiter, it'll be fine.

10PSI stock would be completely safe.

Edit:
Oh, and don't be such a girl!
Dive in, it's not like it's your daily driver, it's a race car now.

ill do 10 psi.. should i upgrade anything? how does a adjustable wastegate actuator work?

i probally will bounce off the rev limiter some

Adjustable wastegate actuators work by pretensioning the spring inside, much like preload on a "coilover" suspension.

If you're going to be hitting the rev limit a lot, I would get some rocker arm stoppers, I would lower the rev limiter to 6800RPM.
It won't make more power past 6500RPM anyway, so what's the point of taking it past that... But if you must, rocker arm stoppers are better than nothing. Even though I don't like them, it's a bandaid.

i wouldnt get rocker arms stoppers.

better to have them fly out and be able to put them back in, the to have them break.

rocker arm stoppers are fairly inexpensive so if you are worried about, it go that route. But honestly sr20 are pretty bulletproof, on stock psi you should be able to abuse the shit out of it without any worry. I know a guy who was running 28psi on a stock sr20 (internal wise) and drag raced the shit out of it for a year and a half. just say'in.

seishukuAdjustable wastegate actuators work by pretensioning the spring inside, much like preload on a "coilover" suspension.

If you're going to be hitting the rev limit a lot, I would get some rocker arm stoppers, I would lower the rev limiter to 6800RPM.
It won't make more power past 6500RPM anyway, so what's the point of taking it past that... But if you must, rocker arm stoppers are better than nothing. Even though I don't like them, it's a bandaid.

take stoppers out and avoid damage.

The rocker is going to go bouncing around in the head one way or another, RAS or not.
At least the RAS will help hold them in there at the OE rev limit (7600RPM), if you wanted to take it to 8000+, then I'd say forget about it.

Edit:
I should say, if you're going to be running it at or near the factory limit, the RAS will at least keep things together, but any higher and you'll probably still kick out a arm or break one.
But I seriously doubt you'll break one at stock limits, with stock springs and valves.

You might get lucky when one pops out and not damage anything, but it's unlikely, and you'll still lose the guide and shim and have to probably dig that out of the oil pan.

david, talk to people who spend as much time on the track as you, who run srs, and actually build them, and have experience, and you will get told to not run rocker arm stoppers.

Whatever you say.
Dave, just listen to Brewster, king of all SR knowledge, master SR builder, and general god of all SRs.
Just ignore me, as I don't know shit, apparently.

its true.

I don't know from my own experience, but I do know my friend with a Fully built SR does not run the Rocker arm stoppers, and was advised to do this from Mazworx who build his motor. I would say they know what they are talking about from their 1100hp s15 drag car. But that is just my 2 cents. Not trying to cause any problems Matt because I am positive you know more about SR's than me.... Just sharing what I have heard.

damn was cfinch in this thread?

anyway
remove and replace with ca18det.  no stoppers needed.  har har

haha i though u let urself get talked outta the VH

who gonna VH first u or i? hmmm.  probably u cuz my upgradings are slow and my ca18det isnt played out yet.  def gonna VH though

If anyone remembers Before i picked up my VQ35 i was going to go vh route. After alot of research its completely not worth it  by the time you buy the vh, 300zx tranny, adapter plate, fix oil starvation issues and make it fit you could of purchased a VQ35 and have more reliable power and much more room to upgrade! Im one of those dont cross bread brands guys so why not do something like a super charged VG30de or a single turbo VG30de. I drew up a bunch of plans on how to make a single turbo VG fit easily. id be happy to share

VH is unique i geuss but its <VQ and VG

Id say go big with a VG30DE single turbo at like 14psi and with a rom tune at 400whp  (and of course you will need a few other upgrades like intake exhaust injectors.)
If you decide to go VG30de single turbo id be happy to scan some of my ideas

I'm a recent convert to the land of SR. Having built & run the Big Block CA for many years I do like the smooth power of the SR. It also made pretty much the same power on it's first rough tune with similar upgrades (HKS FvonV ECU, Sard 550cc injectors, S15 turbo).

okay nvm on the vh. you can have that iggy. ill stick with the carbed 350. or is that a downgrade? lol

Stick with the SR bro if you really want more power go with one of the options i suggested above. (even tho you can get that same power out of a sr  )

my s14 with a sr swap is my daily driver and iv been driving that bitch HARD at 13psi for 2 years and have had NO problems. except its a s14 sr and my stupid plastic pcv valve broke... but other then that PERFECT1

NissanNateStick with the SR bro if you really want more power go with one of the options i suggested above. (even tho you can get that same power out of a sr  )

my s14 with a sr swap is my daily driver and iv been driving that bitch HARD at 13psi for 2 years and have had NO problems. except its a s14 sr and my stupid plastic pcv valve broke... but other then that PERFECT1

SR is dope, i like it. Mine finally got rod knock after 180,000 km, i beat on it hard, way to much redline. Stay SR, boosted power is always more fun

took my steering rack apart and followed seishuku's how too

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4178.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4179.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4180.jpg)

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4181.jpg)
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4183.jpg)

QUESTION. does the s12 rack with s13 tie rods in general have more angle then s13?

stock angle, for reference
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4177.jpg)

i put my "mildly" cut knuckles on. i say, mild. because the drifter/shop who previously owned these knuckles said they didnt have enough angle, they werent aggresive enough. so instead of cutting the same ones he went and got new ones.

i eyeballed the alignment and DAMN. my tie rod is hitting the control arm at lock, and im pretty sure the wheel would be hitting the frame at full lock. im gonna have to make a stopper on the control arm for the knuckle. this shit is wack

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4185.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4186.jpg)

okay, tie rods dont rub,

im rubbing on my swaybar, so i know if i get wheel spacers im pretty sure i can milk some more angle out of the knuckles!
i havent even added tie rod spacers yet. im pretty satisfied so far for the amount i spent

sway bar to sway bar is 3 turns.. i know the rack by itself does around 3.5 so im missing about .5-.5 ish turn

i need a alignment sometime too i guezz

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4187.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4188.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4189.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4190.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4191.jpg)

david are you running s12 control arms?

do they not have stoppers?

on s13 the tie rod hits the control arm from the factory, most cut the factory stop off and add a plate thats much thinner.

im running s12 control arms

the tie rod isnt hitting it now since i have it bolted down. its sitting on the tension rod/ sway bar (s12)