JZ S12 BUILD, RIP 2012

Started by David B · May 28, 2008 · 1673postsSMF 2010–26

EternalSwapJan 14, 2010, 9:39 pm · #1201

straight wastegate dump!

dont be a pansy

kyskaterJan 14, 2010, 9:48 pm · #1202

yea open dump tube ftw

David BJan 14, 2010, 9:51 pm · #1203

ive seen open dumps out of the bumpers and sides of cars.

ive already considered the exuast t be side exit due to i keep fucking them up anyways

nismo200sx16Jan 14, 2010, 10:03 pm · #1204

I dont think your waste gate and dump tube will work their. it is a tight area. you will have room to put it in a similar location but I would wait till you have the engine in. I went and looked at mine and it looks like you would be hitting the brake booster if you mounted it their.

David BJan 14, 2010, 10:20 pm · #1205

nismo200sx16I dont think your waste gate and dump tube will work their. it is a tight area. you will have room to put it in a similar location but I would wait till you have the engine in. I went and looked at mine and it looks like you would be hitting the brake booster if you mounted it their.

i can obviously move it haha. i wont be doing modification till the motors in the car

seishukuJan 14, 2010, 10:47 pm · #1206

Not an SR, but whatever:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455617 (http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455617)

Just don't try doing it with that MIG welder of yours, it won't last. Welding cast iron isn't as easy as steel.

I've been thinking of doing this my self, but I don't have the external wastegate, flanges, or piping.
If I do it, I'll probably put a different flange on too (T3 probably).

brewster240Jan 15, 2010, 12:57 am · #1207

sell all that crap and run a s14 t28 on a stock cast manifold, with 3" turbo back.

IggyEGuanaJan 15, 2010, 1:29 am · #1208

why are u using an external wastegate? i dont get it. ur turbo is internally gated.

find someone who is switching to top mount and trade them the external wastegate for their used tubular bottom mount mani.

CHRA needs to be clocked so its vertical (oil drain straight down) or with the drain slightly towards the block like 7 o'clock. Compressor housing needs to be clocked about 3 hours counterclockwise from that position. u wanna test fit some though with ur IC piping. u can clock it to work best with the pipes.

David BJan 15, 2010, 10:13 am · #1209

IggyEGuana
find someone who is switching to top mount and trade them the external wastegate for their used tubular bottom mount mani.

brewster240sell all that crap and run a s14 t28 on a stock cast manifold, with 3" turbo back.

no one will buy all this crap, nor trade

brewster240Jan 15, 2010, 1:52 pm · #1210

well then maybe thats a good sign that you shouldnt be using it either.

a tin pan alleyJan 15, 2010, 1:59 pm · #1211

yeah well, i'm sure there are plenty of people who think david shouldn't using an s12 but he bunked that idea

mod_mastazJan 15, 2010, 6:55 pm · #1212

A little late to the game on the seam/stitch welding, but the areas you see with major gaps are to account for metal expansion. Seeing that you're at 30*F, it looks like a really huge gap, but it has all been accounted for. The chassis' here look much "tighter" if you will since it's around 70*F-90*F. Just something to keep in mind before you seam weld the entire car. I'm actually on heat transfer and thermodynamics so it all actually makes sense why those gaps exist.

brewster240Jan 15, 2010, 11:49 pm · #1213

a tin pan alley yeah well, i'm sure there are plenty of people who think david shouldn't using an s12 but he bunked that idea

you're right, comparing him using a different chassis is the same thing as suggesting he not use shitty ebay parts when he can get better results cheaper out of oem parts is exactly the same thing.

David BJan 16, 2010, 12:04 am · #1214

brewster240well then maybe thats a good sign that you shouldnt be using it either.

whats wrong with a external wastegate?

brewster240Jan 16, 2010, 12:12 am · #1215

nothing, but you dont need it, and it looks like that is cheap ebay crap.

whats wrong with running a cast manifold with a internally gated t28 at 12 psi and have a decently powerful reliable engine?

whats wrong with not having to worry about welds cracking and that thing boost creeping?

etc etc.

brewster240Jan 16, 2010, 12:17 am · #1216

have you asked for one?

think i have one.

i have 2 or 3 t28s that need seals, ill hook you up if iggy will hook you up with a seal replacement, you'll be golden.

you've done so good so far, stay on the right track!

and they are s14 journal bearing turbos, not that gtr junk.

David BJan 19, 2010, 7:43 am · #1217

replaced rear main seal/regasketed seal cover
removed studs with double nutting
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4024.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4025.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4026.jpg)

love this bent tool for removing the rtv out of the little dip ins....

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4027.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4028.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4029.jpg)

ill grab a pilot bearing before the motor goes in i guess also.

why didnt i just remove the whole oil pan? should i? i wanted to get the rear main out of the way before it goes on the stand... i DID rtv the bottom portion of the seal cover to the pan to ensure its sealed at the corners... if i take the upper pan off ill just scrape it off and reseal

started to replace trans seals/input bearing
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4033.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4035.jpg)

QUESTION! i dropped the seal when i popped it out.. this input one.
is it in backwards? how do i tell? not familiar which way these bastards go in
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4036.jpg)

IggyEGuanaJan 20, 2010, 4:36 am · #1218

u got it right. where u get the trans seals and bearings?

David BJan 20, 2010, 5:23 am · #1219

IggyEGuanau got it right. where u get the trans seals and bearings?

autozone! my job

nismologistJan 20, 2010, 5:40 am · #1220

nice. replacing seals is a good way to save a lot of time, and possibly money as well later down the road. good work.

David BJan 20, 2010, 7:57 am · #1221

someone answer my question! is it in backwards?

and can i use rtv to seal the plate back up. i also fogot the order the snap rings go on haha

brewster240Jan 20, 2010, 9:11 pm · #1222

iggy said its right, im pretty sure it is too.

iggy i have a t28 for david, want to hook him up with a refresh? its an s14 journal bearing.

David BJan 20, 2010, 9:20 pm · #1223

brewster240iggy said its right, im pretty sure it is too.

iggy i have a t28 for david, want to hook him up with a refresh? its an s14 journal bearing.

+1 +1 +1 +1 +1

rageJan 21, 2010, 8:33 am · #1224

yeah fucking do that shit

put that ebay shit back on ebay

IggyEGuanaJan 23, 2010, 9:22 am · #1225

sounds good. PM me when u get it. Just pay for shipping and the kit. I'll do a good job for ya.

JayJan 30, 2010, 9:33 am · #1226

David Bsomeone answer my question! is it in backwards?
and can i use rtv to seal the plate back up. i also fogot the order the snap rings go on haha

Not in backwards. when the seal is channeled like that, the hollow side of the C always goes inside. Otherwise it would never properly tap into place.

Good as gold

Also, The RTV is just fine as long as you got everything covered. But don't forget to lube up the inside of the seal (Mating surface of the rotating mass) with some grease before you start it up. Could melt out and leak right away.

David BFeb 3, 2010, 5:32 am · #1227

nooo look its backwards...

the hollow side, is supposed to be the oil mating side. mine is backwards. i ordred a new one.

umm, got trans bolts today, clutch is in. MISSING FLYWHEEL BOLTS?@?@ anyone got spares>? i dont have 50+ bux to fork out for some new ones

seishukuFeb 3, 2010, 10:01 pm · #1228

Get the ARP flywheel bolt kit, it's only $32.
Part number is ARP-254-2801, http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/254-2801/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/254-2801/10002/-1)
It says it's for a Ford, don't worry about that. They're the same as OEM.

JayFeb 4, 2010, 12:03 am · #1229

David Bnooo look its backwards...

the hollow side, is supposed to be the oil mating side. mine is backwards. i ordred a new one.
umm, got trans bolts today, clutch is in. MISSING FLYWHEEL BOLTS?@?@ anyone got spares>? i dont have 50+ bux to fork out for some new ones

I wasn't sure what side was the oil side on that part. If the camera is the side the lubricant of choice will be on, then Like you said, yes. It's backwards.

Sucks having no flywheel bolts. I can't verify what matt said so I'll stay out of that one

David BFeb 13, 2010, 8:13 pm · #1230

flywheel bolts are in. trans gasket is in. mmn. getting ready for swappage

David BFeb 17, 2010, 8:50 pm · #1231

oh my god. i broke a flywheelbolt off into the crank. thanks to autozones tq wrench.. it wasnt clicking, i kept going. and pop. i had ti set to 95 foot pounds, after i tqed them to 60

luckly i was able to retrieve the bolt out. but now i have to order another one. and fucking wait another week or so

Blue84coupeFeb 17, 2010, 9:54 pm · #1232

Man that sucks,atleast it sounds like you got it out pretty easy.I've had to remove almost all 8 after the 4ag in my mr2 snapped them.

SlickS12Feb 18, 2010, 12:27 am · #1233

id pull the pic up but it looks like you still have speakers taking up space in your doors. on top of that it was a pic of you chizeling out sound deadening material, yank those shitz! LOL ...unless you have a stereo hiding somewhere

seishukuFeb 18, 2010, 4:56 am · #1234

You didn't get the ARP bolts I listed?

David BFeb 18, 2010, 4:59 am · #1235

seishukuYou didn't get the ARP bolts I listed?

i got fr sport...

but dude. why cant i just use a grade 8 bolt from the local hardware store? as long as its the same pitch thread and length and diameter

the nissan bolts, werent torquing to 95... they just. stretched. and... stretched.

RedneckFeb 18, 2010, 5:22 am · #1236

That sucks. At least you got the stud out.

seishukuFeb 18, 2010, 10:32 pm · #1237

grade 8 isn't strong enough, you'd need at least 10.9, but I don't see any reason why not.

ClownyFeb 18, 2010, 10:59 pm · #1238

tommyWhat people tend to forget is that the I/C is already full of air while you are running at idle... when you stomp on the gaz, it doesn't have to "full" first in order to get air to the engine. Since air as a viscosity, the curent air that sits in the I/C will be pushed by the air comming from the turbo and so on....

That is why you can run a remote mount turbo and still get decent spool time and throttle response. Don't forget that the lenght of the pipe that connect the turbo to the TB in a remote mount setup as about the same volume or air then this I/C as, if not more. What a big I/C will add is restriction to the air flow, and a slight drop in pressure, but the bigger volume adds to counter act this effect. More volume at lower pressure = same flow. Of course if you are running a turbo to own bragging rights on "how much pressure you can run" it will not do, but if you own a turbo to increase flow (total volume of air that gets IN the engine) in order to make more power, this I/C will get the job done. IMO

Tom

The only problem that I see with your analogy (which I may be completely wrong...in which case I apologize in advance if I am) is that Air is a gas and therefore compressible. The whole system must first reach the same pressure which a big IC will make it take much longer. Not because of restriction, but because of the sheer volume of air that must be compressed first.

David BFeb 19, 2010, 2:26 am · #1239

seishukugrade 8 isn't strong enough, you'd need at least 10.9, but I don't see any reason why not.

stock flywheel bolts are NOT 10.9 grade.

seishukuFeb 19, 2010, 4:09 am · #1240

OEM bolts don't usually have a listed rating, retail bolts however require a marking.

Again, I wouldn't use grade 8.8, but would rather have 10.9 or 12.9. It's holding your flywheel and clutch assembly in place and at a high RPM, I wouldn't want it flying off... Would you?

Edit:
Just an FYI, 8.8 bolts have a tensile strength of 600 MPa (mega pascals), 10.9 is 830 MPa, that's quite a difference if you ask me.

IggyEGuanaFeb 19, 2010, 4:53 am · #1241

nevermind
slow poster here

JayMar 2, 2010, 1:53 am · #1242

Aww. how cute! you guys actually got something a tidge more than a dusting of snow down there!

David BMar 2, 2010, 3:35 am · #1243

JayAww. how cute! you guys actually got something a tidge more than a dusting of snow down there!

haha yea, we got 2 pretty good snow storms, most snow in a long time around here

i need a damn turbo. anyone have a blown non bb t28?

i need random bits of i/c piping too, to make mine.

gotta get a fuel pump, and a s13 pump assembly

David BMar 2, 2010, 3:51 am · #1244

and, im grabbing this this weekend!
from west va, for 400 beans
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/trailer.jpg)

brewster240Mar 2, 2010, 3:52 am · #1245

sorry davdi im not having any luck i dont know if i lost it, someone stole it.

David BMar 2, 2010, 4:07 am · #1246

brewster240sorry davdi im not having any luck i dont know if i lost it, someone stole it.

its fine! i just gotta find another turbo. asap!!

JayMar 2, 2010, 5:26 am · #1247

David Band, im grabbing this this weekend!
from west va, for 400 beans
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/trailer.jpg)

Perfect. Tire rack and toolbox in the front. Spare parts bins over the tongue.

David BMar 7, 2010, 7:38 pm · #1248

grabbing a t25, both elbows and i/c piping (stainless steel for frontmount s13) tonight hopefully.

then next chance i get, throw the i/c in with the rad, make i./c piping,

remake of trans mount. (probally not using 3, just 2 of those rubber washers), with a plate on top, and filling the inside with poly

too bad im working through this warm weekend!

it still has dirt and shit on it from decembers summit event

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4090.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4092.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4093.jpg)

motors tilted back, because the trans mount isnt in yet

methylpropMar 7, 2010, 8:41 pm · #1249

Lookin good man. My brother swapped a sr in his s13 and he loves it. It has also been super reliable.

David BMar 9, 2010, 6:34 am · #1250

i/c back in, therm housing on, rad in, starting to fab i/c piping (steel). turbo on, new exaust manifold gasket, new turbo t25 flange gasket

things to do

remake a new trans mount (new idea)

figure out turbo lines?! someone explain what banjo line is what, and where to buy the lines!

get o2 housing gasket, where to order thats cheapish?

wiring

get the god damn clutch fan off!! wtf its seized on!

hook up driveshaft

add fluids

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4103.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4097.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4101.jpg)

hopefully ill clear the steering rack
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4102.jpg)