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IggyEGuanathe gasket degradation is from residual meth pooling in the intake?
240 rear suspension setup, makes me want to try it.... maybe in the near future
JayIf you can't smoke it, put it in and huff the exhaust! The Ultimate hillbilly high!lol ya.
God, I hope nobody has ever done that... Or anything remotely similar
Oh, and the intercooler is in it's final resting place.
(https://i.imgur.com/ChsDA8I.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FOQYT6K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K73UUPN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AzSBl6T.jpg)
And now the radiator sits correctly, instead of being push out at the bottom. I could even put back in an OEM radiator if I wanted.
(https://i.imgur.com/MJWzc5E.jpg)
Interesting... most people use the lower airdam for an IC airsource, and you chose the grille. Much stealthier. What are the core dimentions on that thing?
yeah doesn't that block the flow to the rad I thought that's why everyone used the airdam instead
Actually either way does, if you look at yours you'd see what I mean. It can't be helped, which is why it's popular to go with a better aftermarket radiator to better cool the fluid.
Yeah, the IC will block it either way, so I went with a mid point. It'll put in ducting and do a little flow diversion later.
The core is a tube+fin, measures 26x8x3 I think, not huge but I didn't need much either. I bought it specifically to fit between the frame rails, so the charge piping is short.
Does a damn fine job, hot pipe is hot, cold pipe is cold!
Made a new upper radiator hose adapter.
I just gotta cut it down to size, and install. I might powder coat it too, I donno yet.
very sexy dude.
stainless no?
if it is, leave it raw man.
Oh yea, stainless for sure.
Though I'm not totally sure on the alloy, not that it really matters for an adapter like this.
I bet some people here might be interested in one of the shiny things you took a pic of...
If anyone wants one, hit me up. It's not hard to make, took all of maybe 10 minutes.
I know some of you will probably not like this... BUT, I think it looks bad ass.
(https://i.imgur.com/J4qtiEk.jpg)
Yes, it's purple, however it's actually darker than what the camera makes it seem (flashes SUCK), plus with a tire on there will bring it down more, PLUS on a black car even more.
Just an test really, I had the RAL color so I figured why not. I can always have the wheel blasted and redo it with whatever.
sexy!
Xanosexy!
that looks cool!
JayNot sexy.Yeah, maybe. It's hard to do multitones with powder coating, at least with out making a huge mess.
But could be sexy with some black undertones (like inside of the spokes). Wheels that are entirely the same color other than black to me look like clown car wheels.v
Tight as hell! don't change it!
anyway,
weren't those rims all warped real bad? that was why I swapped them out originally iirc
The two that held air still (the ones with firestone tires) were fine, just one had a chunk missing from the lip. They were pretty straight, and didn't even come out of balance with the weights removed (don't know how that worked ).
The other two I think just had really bad tires, because when I put two of my old Yokohama tires on them they were perfect, no odd noise, no noticeable runout.
They all could use some reconditioning, as they all have bad salt pitting on the hubs, and the lips are all beat up. But they do run straight.
Tossed one of the old tires back on, just to see how it looks.
I still think a gold or bronze would look better, but this isn't too bad.
I'd keep an eye on powercoated wheels. I had a friend powercoat STi BBS wheels and they now have hairline cracks all over. Powercoating rims is a big no-no in the Subie community. It's probably because of the powercoating process itself that causes the rim to do that. I haven't seen any other stock STi BBS crack except powercoated ones.
The rim it self is cracking, or just the powder is?
Looks awesome.
The actual rim itself develops hairline cracks.
They probably use some forged alloy that can be affected at that low of a temp, I'm not too worried with stock cast rims.
I finally got around to removing the last of the sound deadening material, only had the area in the passenager foot well, and driver's side firewall, as well as the area under the heater box.
I also went to reweigh my chassis, comes to 2380LBS... 2600 with me in it. I'm a fat-ass.
Edit:
The last weigh-in I did was at 2630 (somewhere around page 6 I think), with about the same amount of gas (I think).
I don't think my weight has changed much, so I managed to drop 30LBS off the chassis.
Only thing is, I don't remember if I had power steering in at the last weighing.
Your car has to be fast at that weight with your engine setup.
Sure feels like it most days
I need to get a helmet, so I can go to the track again... Kinda sucks running faster than 14sec 1/4 mile.
LeegamerYour car has to be fast at that weight with your engine setup.
Ah, good times, good times...
It's actually running way better since then, hopefully even better after I get a new wideband O2 sensor and fix some fueling.
That was the first car club meet i ever went to, ever. never went to anything for any of my cars until that meet, and thats what makes me love em so much, I got a short ride in matt's badass car. then was stuck in garrett's 2.5 cylinder KA =P
Temperatures Of certain types of powder coating are to high for certain alloys, because of there low annealing point. When metal has any force applied to it the molecules start to over lap and move out of alignment this although making the metal more bridle also hardens the metal. Every metal has a annealing temperature,at this temp the molecules relax and fall back into alignment making the metal malleable once again.
This can be very dangerous!!!!
Iv seen some pretty bad thing from this happening. Although heat wont make it crack after being annealed then exerting a extreme force on the wheel things could go very very BAD.
Just thought id throw my $0.02 in.
so in other words, dont over cook it, and give it time to cool down after cooking it.
Xanoso in other words, dont over cook it, and give it time to cool down after cooking it.
Ya basically make sure the annealing temperature of the metal your coating is at least 200 degrees above the highest cooking temp for the powder coat you are using.
brakes get pretty hot yo
wrench->machine
Well, generally the temp used for annealing cast aluminum is around 650 deg. F, my powder cure temp is 350 for 20 minutes.
I'm not worried about it.
Hey Matt, if I am able to do a 4G63T swap into my Colt, wanna race? I will probably be hitting somewhere around 275whp with minor mods... I think Sport Compact Car Magazine said it best: "...its the most forgiving engine we know. Look at it sideways and it makes more power."
If I do get one of those motors in my car, I'm thinking Holset
You bet buddy! No one around here will race me anymore.
NemisisHey Matt, if I am able to do a 4G63T swap into my Colt, wanna race? I will probably be hitting somewhere around 275whp with minor mods... I think Sport Compact Car Magazine said it best: "...its the most forgiving engine we know. Look at it sideways and it makes more power."
If I do get one of those motors in my car, I'm thinking Holset
JayI have a couple Holsets at my disposal if you want one on the cheap. I have in my garage an HX35 Single scroll, a Dual scroll, and an HX45.
Oh yeah... You've never met me. howdy
If you ever want colt parts. I have a hookup down in rockford. I found him a Turbo colt and he's been hoarding stuff for the past year. He's my go to guy with probe parts. some nissan parts. and expecially the old dodge turbo's. I have an Omni GLHS I don't like to discuss with some people. So you've got another hookup if you decide to take up on it.
EDIT: I forgot to mention. If you EVER want any 4G63T or ANY 4G63 parts. I have a neighbor with (no joke) 7 complete blocks, 4 Td05h turbos, Blue tops galore. He works at a local junkyard and grabs everything DSM he can. And he'll probably sell you a known good engine for like, 150-200 bucks. Then swap it out in my garage with his and my help. Get it done in a day
I don't care, it's all good!
NemisisSWEEEEEEET
Those are 1g 6 bolt or 2g 7 bolt?
I think when I visit back I'm gonna have to meet this Jay fellow sounds like you've got a good deal of stuff going man... Omni GLHS=epic win!
200sxkitcarI think when I visit back I'm gonna have to meet this Jay fellow sounds like you've got a good deal of stuff going man... Omni GLHS=epic win!
When ya planning on being back midwest? Gotta do another meet, and get a nice cali dash from you!
Got a working Bosch WBO2 sensor from my Brother, so I'm back trimming out fuel again.
Ever since I put this straight through muffler on, I can hear the misfiring from over-fueling. The old turbo muffler that was on there was hiding it, apparently. Now I get machine gun fire from my exhaust some times. 10:1 air/fuel ratios will do that.
So the past two days I've been slowly data logging and trimming out fuel.
lol
I'm an idiot.
I forgot to copy the primary fuel map over to the knock fuel map (bad knock sensor), so my adjustments never were being used. No wonder the AFR never changed.
I just fixed it, back on the first try was spot on 11.8:1.
Now, I know that 12.5:1 is ideal for turbos, but I've also been told that more power can be had at around 11.8:1. I suppose I could try both, see which works better. I donno.
Yay, no more 9 and 10:1 ratios!
Edit:
Now, to get a bigger MAF, since that's been maxed out for awhile now (and probably choking the top end).
And get a turbo that doesn't choke out, maybe a smaller T3, or just a T28. Though I do like the spool on my tiny T25g.
Jay: I started out with turbo Dodges, and I probably know as much as you do about them... in some ways, they're primitive, but that simplicity makes them oh-so-easy to make really fast I definitely envy you for your GLHS, and storing that baby is the right thing to do for sure.
Matt: when are you going to get back to the S13 rear conversion? you've had it in the title for awhile now