Matt's S12

so, when are you gonna do all this for me lol

There ya go!

I could do KA stuff too, but it's so easy to do, and I'm not looking to make it a business. I don't want the liability of possibly blowing up engines. Just not my thing, I'd rather educate and help.

Made an intake air temp sensor for the MegaSquirt:

I plan on picking up an open element GM sensor later though, when I have money.

Hopefully I'll have some kind of running test soon, bare bones, but running. lol
I need to pick up some transistors for the options that I want, like the cam phase solenoid.

Then I'll get a new trigger disc for the distributor (probably an AEM style one), then switch over to a waste spark or full COP (if I can get some good coils).

why make one? i stole one from like a g20 at the junkyard and plugged it into the s13 when I had it. wouldn't they all work the same? or could some not take the pressure or something?

I could use pretty much any intake temp sensor (though some won't take pressure), but I have the parts around to make it, so why not?
It'll work just as well as any other sensor, though the open element GM one will respond a little faster.

ah, you had all that fancy stuff laying around, got it.

EternalSwapah, you had all that fancy stuff laying around, got it.

You don't? I think you're weird!

I actually had one laying around, and another one I pulled out of a junk ATX power supply.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iWRl_-K-TQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iWRl_-K-TQ)

Initial run, to get some data.
My eyes are still kinda burning from the exhaust fumes, 9:1 AFR @ idle = BAD.

I'll get the IAT connected up (didn't feel like flipping around the intercooler), and get a solid idle later on, then work out the actual tuning.

(https://i.imgur.com/4M2dhkt.jpg)

Here's the stub harness I made. I just stick the wires into the stock ECU harness connector where they should go.
Eventually I'll probably just hack off the connect from the engine harness and wire it in, but I would really like to get an ECU connector and make an adapter, that would be awesome. Too bad the connector is like $50.

Also something to note when starting, it has a tendency to kick back, which is because of the signal from the distributor is only 4 pulses per distributor rev and is bare minimum for running MegaSquirt.
So it doesn't really have enough info from the CAS to properly sync the crank and cam events, but I will be getting a new trigger disc for the CAS that has 24+1 windows on it (24 crank + 1 cam sync), instead of the stock 360+4 disc (too much info for MS to handle).

Otherwise, it runs really well once it's tuned correctly.
It was able to trigger my stock distributor power transistor no problem, which I was a little worried about, but no issues. Probably will need to adjust dwell duty and time though.

After I get the new trigger disc though, I can switch over to full coil-on-plug ignition too.

Ever thought about just running the edis system? btw I <3 megasquirt

Edit: didn't read the past posts lol

EDIS is nice, but I don't really like the 36-1 on the end of my crank pulley.
Just rather take OEM parts as far as I can, before hitting up other parts.

Woohoo, I got the fueling 80% done!
The other 20% is fine tuning for performance, which will take a lot of time, a lot of data logging, and a lot of time.

It pulls way hard, seems more than it did with OE management, but I was having some odd intermittent issues with that too, pulling timing at weird times and such.

I think it was still running pretty rich on the OE ECU, MPG was suffering some, so I should be getting better MPG with the MegaSquit while in boost.

I'm really liking this, I think this weekend I might just permanently wire it in!

I just need to figure out why I can only get it running with a fixed duty cycle on the ignition, and why it won't start or run with a set dwell.
It's not a smart dwell ignitor, so I don't know what's going on here. It doesn't seem to be missing at all with the fixed DC, so I'm not going to worry too much.

I didn't really try too hard with the dwell, but in the manual they say dwell shouldn't exceed 4ms. I didn't try it higher, but it didn't work with spark inverted or not or with varying dwell settings.
I donno, I guess I'll just leave it until I get a new CAS trigger disc and go waste spark or COP.

(https://i.imgur.com/IMtGqS5.jpg)

seishuku(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/seishuku/MegaSquirtHarness.jpg)

Oh yeah.

Here's the leftovers:
(https://i.imgur.com/LNylgrQ.jpg)

I still gotta properly fix the fuel pump relay though, it's powered by the battery, and MS needs it to be ignition switched (otherwise when the MS powers off, all the outputs ground, and the fuel pump stays on). So I got it somewhat rigged right now, I'll fix it later.

WOW

very nice!

I need to learn more about this.  esp because I have a car with this system already!

keep it up man!

will be back in IL this Feb looking forward to seeing the new setup!

seishukuEDIS is nice, but I don't really like the 36-1 on the end of my crank pulley.
Just rather take OEM parts as far as I can, before hitting up other parts.

Gee, I wonder...

With a different wheel for the cam sensor, it'll time just as well as an EDIS, it would fix the hard starts too (since it would have a cam sync).

Though the multispark on the EDIS does seem like a nice feature, but wasn't that on only a number of units?

At least right now, the timing doesn't deviate too much, only maybe +/- 5 degrees from what I can tell with the timing light. Nothing it can't handle, especially with the water injection.

Oh... and haha, you're a sub-n00b!

seishukuGee, I wonder...

With a different wheel for the cam sensor, it'll time just as well as an EDIS, it would fix the hard starts too (since it would have a cam sync).

the multispark on the EDIS does seem like a nice feature, but wasn't that on only a number of units?

Oh... and haha, you're a sub-n00b!

The Ford coils will work, seems to sit in the plug well ok.

I have some spare maxima VQ coils if you think those would work better.

Got any dimensions on them?

seishukuGot any dimensions on them?

Thanks, just doing my part for the environment, recycling at it's best!

why not use sr coils?

seishukuJust depends on what you want for them I guess.

Well, I only need 4 of them, but whatever.

I'll probably get a T28 compressor wheel and housing sometime, it's cheaper than getting a real T28. Though I really do like the spool on the T25, and at least it's the biggest T25.
It's making decent power on it already, I already need more tire to keep traction as it is. I wouldn't be surprised if it's near 300bhp.

seishukuI'll probably get a T28 compressor wheel and housing sometime, it's cheaper than getting a real T28.

Though I really do like the spool on the T25, and at least it's the biggest T25.

It's making decent power on it already, I already need more tire to keep traction as it is. I wouldn't be surprised if it's near 300bhp.

Big BrotherYou have a 2-liter...and 16 valves.  That means T3 at the very least, if not hybrid T3/T4. Seriously, if my little VW 1.9 can spool a T3 so can you dingleberry.

That's like saying you have the biggest midget penis or something, c'mon man!  Yeah it's big, but you're a midget... no offense to midgets on this board.

I don't think you're at 300 just yet, but imagine what it would do with some honest intake flow right?  You keep underestimating the potential of this thing, and I'm not sure I understand why.  There's no reason whatsoever to not push 18 PSI at this thing with a better turbo, other than the aforementioned traction issues (trust me, I feel your pain there).  Put that new rear end together, and I'll see what I can do about the turbo.

I'll also bring you 3 more coils to mess with.

seishukukeep in mind that I have 10:1 CR cast pistons that aren't designed for boost. If I had another car, I wouldn't mind pushing it a lot harder. I gotta keep it within a comfort zone.

I know everything but the pistons can take 450BHP with out a problem, but I can't afford the cost/downtime of dropping in new pistons right now.

Stupid bills, oh well, after tax time we'll hopefully have some of that cleared out, and I'll have some spending money again.

Lots of brotherly love going on here

Srsly matt, quit pussing out and max that fucker out.

oh and come weld my diff, since you seem to like it in snow a lot.

Oh, and it won't be too much longer before my 450CC injectors are maxed, my last log showed 99% @ 7000RPM with a 9.8:1 AFR (one of those untuned guesses), so that'll come back into normal duty cycle once it's in a normal AFR.
It doesn't give me a whole lot of leeway with compressor flow though, so I might bump to 4BAR fuel pressure in the mean time (and get a little better fuel atomization too), but I'll probably get something in the 700CC range when I can.

Edit:
Do you have a spare Ben? If you do, I could weld that, then you won't have too much down time.
I wish I had a bigger TIG welder at home, then I wouldn't mind doing it here, but work is the only place I can do it.

OR, better yet, give me a core with the side bearing shims, and I'll trade you for my S13 welded diff.

seishukuAFRs are a lot better now with the MS though, it's a lot easier to get those where they need to be, compared to the stock ECU. I did get them better on the stock setup (11.5:1), but I had some problems with warm-up enrichment and timing being pulled out.

I'm still getting use to tuning by VE, getting adjusted to how the VE bins progress as load/RPM increases. It was fairly linear on the OE setup, so I seem to be over estimating some of my guesses as to where some of the untuned bins should be. So I keep getting some rich misfires when I hit some load points that I haven't gone over yet.

seishukuEdit:
Do you have a spare Ben? If you do, I could weld that, then you won't have too much down time.
I wish I had a bigger TIG welder at home, then I wouldn't mind doing it here, but work is the only place I can do it.

OR, better yet, give me a core with the side bearing shims, and I'll trade you for my S13 welded diff.

Big Brother11 is still easily a point too rich, so there's room for more power there- fuel is taking up space where there should be more boost!  
The trick is to drive around with logging on and the wastegate disconnected, and let autotune do the work for you.  Once you have it mapped N/A, hook the 'gate back up and make manual educated guesses about what bin values will give you the AFR you're after.  I didn't use Autotune at all (it wasn't out when I did the conversion), but full manual tuning isn't all that hard.  I think it might have taken me a week to get a rough tune to where I could drive it to work, and within a month I had it fully mapped to 12 PSI.

One thing I noticed: the areas around idle tend to be a little busy, simply because it takes so many different combinations of fuel and spark to get it to run smoothly.  At WOT though, it's much easier to understand.  Bin numbers rise in value linearly at WOT (100 Kpa line and above), small to large, bottom to top.  They stay more or less the same as RPM rises towards redline, though I typically add a little fuel at the top end just to be safe.  This makes sense though: the engine doesn't use any more fuel the faster it spins, the only thing that causes a change in fuel consumption is a change in MAP.

Vertically, your bins should be bigger the higher up you go.  Horizontally, they should stay more or less the same all the way accross.  While you're at it, have a look at your logs and see what areas you tend to cruise in.  Program it lean in those areas (like 16~17:1 or more), then add a bunch of timing.  Your higher compression (and good head design)should make that thing very tolerant of lean mixtures, so it ought to be possible to return some good MPG numbers.

XanoI would have had one, but its gone now.  It had bad bearings and seals so I got rid of it as it was taking up space in my garage.

I still need to do something about my subframe....but thats me being lazy more than anything.  I still might steal your solid one.

I can hook you up with a full SE kit, minus mudflaps of course.

In exchange for welding up the diff whenever we can, and grabbing that subframe.

That works

seishukuI might bump to 4BAR fuel pressure in the mean time (and get a little better fuel atomization too)

Some people say no higher than 100PSI at your max boost, but some injectors will actually fail at less than that. Personally I probably wouldn't let it get more than 5BAR (73.5PSI), which also happens to be the max my fuel pump is rated.

IggyEGuanaHad to use online conversion to figure that out lol.  Bout 58psi goddamn!  I'm at 43.5 and I was a little worried bout what higher than OEM pressure does to the system, especially the injectors themselves.  But then I guess other makes run on higher pressure so whatev.  How high can u push it til the injectors start fukin up?

seishukuSome people say no higher than 100PSI at your max boost, but some injectors will actually fail at less than that. Personally I probably wouldn't let it get more than 5BAR (73.5PSI), which also happens to be the max my fuel pump is rated.

shitgoddamn time for me to up my fuel pressure.. and boost. gonna replace the fuel lines at the tank. they're still originals lol

Lol yea original hoses got to go, dry rot is a nasty thing.
Especially with higher pressure.
Factory pressure should be 44.1psi (3bar), that's with the vacuum hose disconnected.

Anyway, I've modded my cas trigger disc for cam sync, all I need to do is build the second trigger input circuit and wire up the output on the cas sensor.
Then hopefully I won't have any start-up/starter kickback problems anymore, and be able to run wastespark or coil-on-plug.

I'll post up a pic of what I did to the disc when I get home, I'm my wife's crackberry right now.

Matt, I see you didn't introduce me to this AirCooled VW owner.

He was still living in California when you got your VW.

Which reminds me, Nick you should bring the Bug up next time we have a meet, maybe Joe you could bring yours (if it's running).

Here's the trigger discs
OE original:

But, then again, if you have all the EDIS parts, it's probably worth while to do that, if you can get the machining done on the cheap.

does he live south of you? (assuming yes since you said bring the bug up) where is he located then lol.

Near Wadsworth, so not too far from here.