S13 front wheel bearings pt#?

I am not sure what my front coil overs started as, they have the 300zx front calipers on, but it is only 4 studs.

question is: are the s13 4 or 5 studs and does anyone no the part numbr of the bearings, might help me to work out what i have.

My bearings are common 11949 and 11946? std holden and trailer bearings.

Oh and what size discs are the s13 in thickness and diameter?

The whole problem is the discs i have are off a volvo that have to be machined to fit, looking for a replacement.

cheers
michael

S13s are 4 stud, standard S13 rotors are 280x22mm from memory. Alot of nissan struts will take Z32 brakes, S13 struts being one of them. Got some pics?

This is the only pic i have, of the back side of the hub, may or may not help?

I'd guess Z31 turbo, gerrybg would be your best port of call tho. They aren't any late model nissan thats for sure.

Is the PCD of the s13 the same as the s12?

think i have found a discs to do the job off an s13 early model.

Yeah they are the same PCD, almost all rear wheel drive 4 stud jap cars use 4x114.3. Front drivers use 4x100 generally.

they might be aus-spec R31 skyline struts you have there.

BTW nice suspension arms you have.

Thanks,

Yeah they have no bump steer and the perfect acherman angles ;)

This is the only pic i have, of the back side of the hub, may or may not help? Nice arms Where did you get them? I thought about making these before.

Made it all myself, 2mm x 25mm chromolly tube, 5/8 rose joints, alloy arms are -20mm for faster lock to lock. It has no bump steer and better caster with the right ackerman.

you must be a whizz with trigonometry!! :D

Made it all myself, 2mm x 25mm chromolly tube, 5/8 rose joints, alloy arms are -20mm for faster lock to lock. It has no bump steer and better caster with the right ackerman.

You're the man. Damn nice arms you got there.

I took some time to get it right and can tell you!

but for a rally car you need the front to point where you want it, or it's in da trees :)

I have added a plate to the main lower bar so as to run a sway bar off, run the std bar with a 10mm rose joint with a bolt spaced down for the bar, the arm has 3 holes in the plate off the top so as to get bar adjustment.

I can also change the spacers under the alloy steer plates to space down the outer bearing which also changes the roll center, had a play with that to get it right too.

are your cator rods rose-jointed at the front like aftermarket s13 ones??

i got quoted $250 to convert my existing ones to adjustable items using the standard mounting setup.

I have cut the std mount out, and drilled a hole across it and used a 5/8 rose with steal spacers much like the main arm is to the sub frame.

The ones that were there before this were larger steal bar and was threaded so you can wind them forward to get more caster.

I run 1.5 degs neg camber straight, full lock it runs at 4 degs neg, this is how i set my caster as i only have a camber guage and string line to do alignments, set the cambers the same and toe right, then full lock and measure off camber and adjust caster bars to give the same camber at full lock, inside wheels gets +2.5deg camber at full lock.

You loose some caster due to the weird ball joint swivel set up they run std, where i have just a spherical bearing in there.

sway bar set up,
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/msgofast/rallycar%20001%20(Small).jpg

caster bar end,
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/msgofast/rallycar%20002%20(Small).jpg

schweeeeet!!