This thread was saved without dates. "Around Apr 2005" is estimated from neighbouring threads.
on monday i'm going to get a 87 200sx with a ca18et. car is very very very clean! just need to know the important things to know about this car! :D i can't wait to try out a rwd turbo car! it won't beat my gsr sol but i guess it will still kick ass right? my gsr does 14.437 as is (summer will be turbo hoping to see 12's) what should this one make? :headbang:
thankx guys! hope to hear from ya soon! :D
First off welcome to the club, to get an idea have a look at the ET List that should give a good Idea of what our's cars can do . are you going to put some pic when you get it . again welcome and have fun.
First off welcome to the club, to get an idea have a look at the ET List that should give a good Idea of what our's cars can do . are you going to put some pic when you get it . again welcome and have fun.
thankx! :) and yes i will post pics for sure! i looked at the et times but none of them are for stock 200sx with ca18et. i don't think i'll modify it... i'm just not too big on sohc engines.... but i'm sure i'll have tons of fun! :)
anyway still need to know what to look for when i'll go get it :)
what body Notch back or hatch back? rust around the doors and windows , becaue of the engine you have there's no problem there I think because I have a CA20E,Part's should be easy source because your in the USA,that's all I can tell you for now.
still need info!
yeah it's a hatchback and i live in quebec, canada btw ;-)
what should i expect to break first? what are the common problems i mean :dontknow:
thankx waiting for reply.
what should i expect to break first? what are the common problems i mean :dontknow:
The electrical system.
As far as the engine goes, you can nearly doulbe the stock horsepower with no major modifications. You need a bigger turbo, an intercooler, and possible more fuel. Your stock turbo is pretty wimpy so don't be afraid to turn the boost up on it. It wont move enough air to make the engine detonate, so go ahead and set your boost to 13 or 14 psi. Beyond that there really isn't any gain to be had.
It might not be a bad idea for you to get a cheap A/F gauge, just to make sure you aren't running into problems. All of this is assuming that your engine is in good condition now, ie. doesn't burn a lot of oil and holds good oil pressure.
Well, for performance in a straight line, there is an guy in Australia who has a FJ20ET motor (2.0L twin cam turbo. Everyone here wants one!! JDM engine only) and he runs 9's. There is a video of him doing it in the media section. But these cars are ment to carve corners. I have the same type of car you do. 84 turbo hatch. But my turbo is seized. But I can stil take a corner 3x faster than any other car would want to:)
Having a FJ or a VG in the nose might affect your cornering a little but the CA is much lighter. My car takes corners quite well despite having a motor that weighs 30kg more than a CA18DET and probably even more than a ET...
Good point. But still, I want one... More power is never enough!
The electrical system.
As far as the engine goes, you can nearly doulbe the stock horsepower with no major modifications. You need a bigger turbo, an intercooler, and possible more fuel. Your stock turbo is pretty wimpy so don't be afraid to turn the boost up on it. It wont move enough air to make the engine detonate, so go ahead and set your boost to 13 or 14 psi. Beyond that there really isn't any gain to be had.
It might not be a bad idea for you to get a cheap A/F gauge, just to make sure you aren't running into problems. All of this is assuming that your engine is in good condition now, ie. doesn't burn a lot of oil and holds good oil pressure.
This is bad advice! 13 psi is 13 psi, only on a smaller turbo it's MUCH hotter now because the T2 has to spin so much more to make it! He could spike, and even still could get some bad knock just from the heat alone. T2 was not designed to run at over 12psi, especially with no intercooler and a pretty limited OEM fuel system. You don't think it can blow? Man, you wanna take that risk that's up to you, but I say it's a bad idea. FI systems are finnicky, and I've seen them blow apart from less.
Having a FJ or a VG in the nose might affect your cornering a little but the CA is much lighter. My car takes corners quite well despite having a motor that weighs 30kg more than a CA18DET and probably even more than a ET...
I think after long contemplation, the CA18DET is probbly the choice engine for road course, because while its not all that heavy, its alot beefier than SR. It's like a mid-ground between SR20DET and FJ20ET as far as weight vs. strength goes, and performs up there with SR about the same from what I've seen of Silvias tuned with CA18DET engines in them.
The FJ would be for the more agressive, risktaking, powermonger race car. Alot more finesse required but plenty of raw power.
This is bad advice! 13 psi is 13 psi, only on a smaller turbo it's MUCH hotter now because the T2 has to spin so much more to make it! He could spike, and even still could get some bad knock just from the heat alone. T2 was not designed to run at over 12psi, especially with no intercooler and a pretty limited OEM fuel system. You don't think it can blow? Man, you wanna take that risk that's up to you, but I say it's a bad idea. FI systems are finnicky, and I've seen them blow apart from less.
There is absolutely no way that he can blow a mechanically sound CA18ET. The compressor on the T2 is to small to flow any amount of air. 13psi on a T25 is not the same as 13psi on a T04B H trim. The air being displaced by the engine should be calculated in pounds per minute, not PSI or CFM. I'm sure that the T2 is producing quite a bit of heat at 13psi on a CA18 and that is the reason that you can run 13 psi. The the air gets hot, it is not very dense. This is why you upgrade to a larger compressor.
We have run 17 psi on 1=2's car (with no intercooler) before with no ill affects. The AFR didn't lean out, there was no detonation, nothing. Right now we are running a T3 60trim with a .63 turbine housing on the car. The boost is set between 13 and 14 psi and the only fuel modification done to the car is an S-AFC 2 and we used it to lean the mixture out. At 5600 RPM we stopped correcting the AFR because it was coming out to the ratio that we were looking for, about 12.5 to 1. But this wasn't because the fuel system couldn't keep up. Its because the MAS was at 99%. The stock fuel system will support well over stock horsepower levels. According to the trap speed, 104mph, the car should be making over 250hp at the crankshaft all on a stock fuel system.
1=2 documented some of our earlier efforts and they can be found here.
http://www.one-equals-two.net/cars/200sx/mods/
And Arro, perhaps you should accually do some of these modifications on your car before you go around calling other peoples advice bad.
-Ross
This is bad advice! 13 psi is 13 psi, only on a smaller turbo it's MUCH hotter now because the T2 has to spin so much more to make it! He could spike, and even still could get some bad knock just from the heat alone. T2 was not designed to run at over 12psi, especially with no intercooler and a pretty limited OEM fuel system. You don't think it can blow? Man, you wanna take that risk that's up to you, but I say it's a bad idea. FI systems are finnicky, and I've seen them blow apart from less.
Well, let's see. You still don't have a turbo car running. The only experience you have with any of the turbo cars is from your CA20ET that blew up as soon as it started, and from talking to Bart or other's on this board (All of which have run more than 12 psi without trouble). Where are you coming up with this stuff? Perhaps you are still looking at your old "WHAT THE HELL IS: the best upgrade path for a turbo S12?" (http://www.club-s12.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=519). This was written, like all your other posts, filled with nothing but ricer myths. You had no idea what you were talking about then, and you still don't now. Perhaps you should follow the advice of your favourite post, "Please SEARCH BEFORE POSTING!!!!"
Let's see, following your old tuning advice, I should be on what, my 8th added injector now? I really like how you specify that "standard" T3 housing. You r0xor! That would be what? 45 trim, 50 trim, 60 trim? Perhaps you are refering to the exhaust housing? .48, .63, .84? You had no idea what you were talking about then and you still don't (I purposely repeat that because I can't read a thread you post without thinking it). Read a book dude, library cards are still free in the US. I know you have internet access, you can always hook up with another useful website (www.google.com) and just type stuff in there, if you are confused on how to operate this website, type your topic in the bar right above where it says "Google Search", then click on said "Google Search" button. You can learn how to read a compressor map, how to calculate all kinds of fuel information, and much other fun stuff. Best of all, most website won't let you post, so you won't look like an idiot there too.
BTW, 13psi is 13psi is a really stupid saying. On a shitty head 4 cyl, 13 psi doesn't require as much from the turbo in terms of flow as a high flow V8 head. PSI does not equal Power!! Airflow equals power! PSI is just how much pressure is at the manifold. More pressure helps force more air in, but a more dense charge will flow more air with less PSI. You would be more likely to have a problem with leaning out if you were intercooled, the only difference is you will have lower intake charge temps which can help prevent the combustion chamber from creating hot spots that cause detonation, that's why people intercool cars. Denser air, lower EGTs. Have you completed high school physics? Because it's covered in there, and I went to a AL high school, 49th in the nation baby!
Heh FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT!!!
So personal over such crap info!
I know how about you all get a decent engine in the first place haha w0000
Call me MR PISS YOU OFF!!
Anyway this guy is asking for some info, and he gets a ego info battle lol! :mike:
1=2 your such a smart ass :laugh: :finger:
Remember, i luv you all
hoo boy, place nice people
It just bugs me that some people just make up answers based on nothing to try to tell people what they can and cannot safely do to their cars. I would hate to think that someone would ever listen to what he says... Keep in mind that if every one followed the statements of these people that are misinformed, we would be stuck at about 10psi on the T2 turbo and no one would ever upgrade for fear of blowing their car up. If someone is wrong and giving false information, I think it would be best to say something, rather than let the person looking for info do something to harm their car or their bank account. I suppose I've had my fill of stupid people today and had to let it out.
Now if there is a little ego thrown in, I can't help that :)
Remember ARRO is just doing what your doing. TRYING TO HELP OUT OTHER S12 MEMBERS.
You all dont know everything so dont act like you do.
We all give out crap advice but thats no need to flame each other saying im better than you cause i know more. HOW THE HELL WILL ANY1 LEARN ANYTHING!
NOW I SOUND LIKE MY PARENTS!!! WD :-x
Now now kids....
I tend to agree with 1=2 and Mr Bob tho.
I think after long contemplation, the CA18DET is probbly the choice engine for road course, because while its not all that heavy, its alot beefier than SR. It's like a mid-ground between SR20DET and FJ20ET as far as weight vs. strength goes, and performs up there with SR about the same from what I've seen of Silvias tuned with CA18DET engines in them.
The FJ would be for the more agressive, risktaking, powermonger race car. Alot more finesse required but plenty of raw power.
I generally agree with this tho, but for different reasons. The CA18DET is cheapest, easiest to fit and makes decent power, it's power levels can easily match the SR but it's got a torque defecit. The SR is harder to fit than the CA and you pay a premium for the motor, on the upside it has the largest aftermarket support of any of the engines mentioned and will support around 160kwkw max with only minor mods. Smooth and decent spread of torque. The FJ is big heavy strong rare and old. It'll make fat power, but it'll be hard to find, need a rebuild if you want to make fat power with it and won't have a nice torque spread like a newer motor will. On the upside it'll take you to the 9 second bracket if you know what you are doing build and driving wise.
My advice is work the CA18ET, plenty of ppl here have done it and they seem to make good power, if you want to swap go the CA18DET on a cost to performance basis.
Remember ARRO is just doing what your doing. TRYING TO HELP OUT OTHER S12 MEMBERS.
You all dont know everything so dont act like you do.
We all give out crap advice but thats no need to flame each other saying im better than you cause i know more. HOW THE HELL WILL ANY1 LEARN ANYTHING!
NOW I SOUND LIKE MY PARENTS!!! WD :-x
I suppose that's true, but is bad advice better than no advice (especially since the information has been posted by other members before too)? Okay, I'm all flamed out I suppose. I'll be nice for a while.
Well first off, didn't he say he didn't want to mod his car in the first place?
This is not the post to have "I know more than you do" cockfights.
Have a difference of opinion. If you think you're right, go out and prove it instead of wasting bandwidth. Even Einstein had to "show his work"
And don't say someone's advice is bad. Disagree with them nicely, so you can both share the information you've gleaned, and we can all profit.
I'm sure Jason is just trying to do his moderating duties. Mr. Bob and 1=2 have made huge progress for the S12 community, so when they have advice to share we should all at the very least listen.
I think the time is coming to review a lot of our original "S12 Facts"
I have seen countless misquotings of everything from power levels, to what parts will and won't work and they keep getting regurgitated.
And it drives me insane.
I have to agree with MrBob and 1=2 on pretty much everything. When someone does everything you say they can't, usually they're right.
I ran my car at over 1 BAR on the stock T2 and it was problem free. Well, motor problem free. It ran pig rich too.
On a not-broken motor, I think it would be really hard to hurt it with the stock turbo - unless you don't maintain it.
You can hurt the stock turbo ... T2's are ass. Even in regular service you're lucky to get 60,000 miles out of one. Severe duty will probably cut that in half. Wayward pieces of exhaust manifolds will cut another ... ohh ... 29,999 miles off it ;)
And I 100% agree with Neb. Build the ca18et. If people spent half as much time looking into the SOHC motor as they do trying to find something to swap it out for, I think a lot of you would be surprised what it can do.
And I 100% agree with Neb. Build the ca18et. If people spent half as much time looking into the SOHC motor as they do trying to find something to swap it out for, I think a lot of you would be surprised what it can do.
Yah Look at Steve's (sschung) car, it is running quite well now.
i know my old t2 was in pretty bad shape, but i can't believe that you can get 17 psi out of it (unless you're talking about at 3000 rpm in which case 20psi is easy). whats the secret?? my engine isn't in that bad shape. even if you do run 10+ psi boost on the t2, i'd have to wonder how much more power you're getting. anyone have any dyno charts of their hi boost t2 run? one thing's for sure, you're killing your turbo fast =)
i wish everyone would stop dumping on arro. what he offers is *conservative* tuning advice (the same i would do). and on a public forum, that's really the way to go unless you want someone crying back to you that your advice blew their engine. not everyone's going to have an engine that's running well in the first place before they crank the boost...
You get 17psi out of a T2 by disconnecting the wastegate. It doesn't really matter how high you set the boost because its going to drop down to 10-11 psi at 5-6000 rpm anyway.
If everyone followed conservetive turning advice, we would still be running 16s. Someone has to take a chance every once in a while. We believe that if we blow the engine that we will just buiild another one. I understand that may not be possible for everyone, but there are some of us that can try new things and report back on what you can and can't do.
right, that makes more sense. it's easy to crank 20 psi at 3000 rpm. i've done it many times when setting up my mbc. it's just when everyone says 17 psi, i'm thinking of holding that all the way to redline.
Well put Mr. 200
You know, My favorite thing about this forum still, is that all the members are here for one reason, to further enhance the pleasure of owning a S12.
On a side note, If I'm following 1=2 and Mr.Bob correctly, I agree, PSI is a fairly irrelevant value by itself. I say this because I believe that you need to know the other values such as Volumetric Efficiency, Dynamic Compression Ratio, Engine Displacement, Intake Air Temp. and ect.. in order for PSI value to be of any use.
So having stated that, Let's skip past all this bullshit that just confuses all the other members still learning about this. In the end, isn't there only one relevent value? The Maximum Sustainable Cylinder Head Pressure (based on Temperature, of course) possible with damaging the engine? I mean, isn't that the magical number that everyone here is trying to reach? All those other values just determine which way you're gonna reach it.
But that's just my opinion.
And on a final note, For as long as I've been a member, Jason has steered far many more members in the right direction than in the wrong.
I goin' to shower now, My jeans are probably all wet from this pissing contest. :laugh:
Denser air, lower EGTs.This is not always corect. A denser air charge also creates better combustion which can raise temp levels. This is not pointed at you (I assume you already know this), but rather to anyone reading this, who figures they can judge the engine based upon EGT readings...http://www.club-s12.org/board/showthread.php?t=6148