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tension rod questions

Started by ahoffman83 · around Apr 2005 · 15postsvBulletin 2004–05

This thread was saved without dates. "Around Apr 2005" is estimated from neighbouring threads.

ahoffman83date not saved · #1

I have a few questions about the S12 tension rods for you guys who know all about modifying the front suspension and how all that stuff works. I have aftermarket polyurethane z31 tension rod bushings (the early kind like the S12 has). What i want to know is what is the role of the tension rod exactly? When you go to install this and tighten it all down do you want it to pull the lower control arm forward or do you want to push the lower control arm back or is it just neutral? Any help would be great. I've been experimenting with washers and stuff and trying to get things to work better.

MrBobdate not saved · #2

The tension rods work to trianglulate the front suspension. They basicly work with the control arms to form A-arms. The bushings can be adjusted to change the position of the control arm, which will affect steering alingment and castor. The problem with the S12 and Z31 tension rod design is that when you take a turn or hit an uneven road surface the tension rods can move back and forth due to its stock rubber bushings. The tension rods allow the control arms to move (and flex) which cause the wheel to toe in or out. This can cause the front of the car to dart as well as cause a vauge steering feel. Polyurethane bushings help as do the UHMW bushings that I sell. However, the best alternative, other than an true A-arm, is a tension rod similar to the one used on the S13-15s.

iliRandyilidate not saved · #3

With my experimenting with the rods I have found that shorter is better.:) You cant go wrong with more castor. It has its perks.
1. It acts like the castor wheels on a shopping cart. (when you pitch the rear wheels the front stays on a straight path.) Try it nextime you go shopping.
2. The added castor gives camber when you need it. (I.E. as you turn the wheel to the left it gives the left wheel +camber and at the same time the right wheel gets -camber) The lean effect (like how a motorcycle leans in a corner) gives the front more grip.

Like what Mr.Bob said "However, the best alternative, other than an true A-arm, is a tension rod similar to the one used on the S13-15s." Ours is o.k. not the best but o.k.:) Remember don't go with a semi solid setup! I tryed this and it put to mutch stress on the rod and snaped it in half in mid corner right at the end of the milled end.(After 5 months) The rod needs to pivot! You just don't want movement back and fourth.

Shorten the metal insert on your polyurethane z31 tension rod bushings 1/8" to 3/16" or even stock ones. It helps alot.

Radracer_Sdate not saved · #4

Could you show where pls? Just to make sure.

ahoffman83date not saved · #5

So the added castor is when you move the lower control arms forward by tightening up the tension rods right?

ahoffman83date not saved · #6

MrBob how is the material you use for your tension rod bushings? Is it harder/stiffer than polyurethane or about the same? Also do you utilize the stock spacer with those or can you ditch them completely, or is it better to just shorten it?

MrBobdate not saved · #7

The bushings that I sell are made out of a material called Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylne. Its a very hard plastic ( Shore D 68) that allows just enough flex for the tension rods to move properly. Once installed, they should put the control arms back in the original position, but that is really dependent on how much you tighten the nuts on the tension rods. They use all the stock hardware, you just replace the rubber bushings.

iliRandyilidate not saved · #8

Could you show where pls? Just to make sure.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/724194_63_full.jpg
It snaped off the threaded part.
I was going around a sweeping 10mph 90 deg. corner @ 45 mph. (grip style)
As the car started to body roll with the weight transfer, the inside wheel suspention got its load taken off and extended couseing it to snap
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/724194_65_full.jpg

O.k. Put a pencil tip 2" into a hole drilled in concret push down on it like a lever. Surprise the pencil is snaped! After doing this test you can see what happened.:)

iliRandyilidate not saved · #9

So the added castor is when you move the lower control arms forward by tightening up the tension rods right?
Well not exactly:) You have to shorten the length of the rod.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/724194_64_full.jpg
No matter how mutch turque you put on it it dosent tighten crap. From 1 to 100 ft/lbs the distance will be the same. The thing to do is shorten the spacer tube. 1/8 to 3/16 and shorten the t/rod

Indecisivedate not saved · #10

okay...is the TC rod supposed to line up with the bolt holes in the control arm easily?

cause only one of mine line up...the other one is pretty far off...

so I'm thinking it may be bent outta shape and I need a new one.

any info will help.

and is it supposed to be straight? cause mine is bent upward a bit at the end(where it bolts to the control arm)

iliRandyilidate not saved · #11

okay...is the TC rod supposed to line up with the bolt holes in the control arm easily?

cause only one of mine line up...the other one is pretty far off...

so I'm thinking it may be bent outta shape and I need a new one.

any info will help.

and is it supposed to be straight? cause mine is bent upward a bit at the end(where it bolts to the control arm)

Its pretty easy if you put it losely together first, then put the car on the ground or ramps, cynder blocks ect. to tighten hre up with the suspention under load :) And yes they should be straight. d@mn I haven't bent one yet! the s12 rods ane pretty solid :) I just keep bending the beackets. the z31 rods are slightly bent upwards at the countrol arm side though.
I hope that helps you some Indy.

Indecisivedate not saved · #12

I can't get just one damn bolt lined up. it's about half the size of the bolt hole off.

2morrow I'll try to get it in...prolly check the driver's side TC rod to see if it's straight or bent or whatever....

I tried to bolt it to the control arm first and then put hte control arm..but I couldn't bent it enough to get the control arm in place lol

it's a conspiracy...thanks a lot tho.

ahoffman83date not saved · #13

If you can't get the bolts to line up with the holes in the control arms try pushing the control arm backward or forward with your foot (depending upon which way you need to go) to get the holes to line up with the bolts. Worked for me once before.

Indecisivedate not saved · #14

:D it's all fixed now.

just need an alignment and she's back on the ROAD...with stock rims..but back on the road

iliRandyilidate not saved · #15

Thats d@mn good to hear.:)