CA18et parts for cheap power

I was thinking about the "Euro cam" from Nismo, and it says it fits both CA20Es and CA18ETs. This had me thinking, would a CA18ET cam fit into our engined, and would it make any power? Also, I'm no genius in the going-on's in our engines, but would the CA18ET pistons help in a 20? I know lower compression's no good for NA engines, but if I were to go CA20ET, they may lower the compression to let me run another pound of boost? Just ideas.

First of no u cant swap teh pistons CA18et is a 1.8L and a CA20E is a 2.0 L which means teh cylinders are wired On teh cam I personally think it woudl give u some low end torqu b/c a ca18et has a longer valve timing cam which means the valves stay open longer to let the air com in from the turbo thats it.

First, the CA18ET is a shorter deck height, and it's only an 83 mm bore compared to the 84.5 of the CA20. If you were to go CA20ET, you should be able to run all the boost you could ever need with 8.5:1. In my opinion, anything lower than 8.5:1 hurts driveability and throttle response.

Second, you might see some gains with the Euro cam, but I would recommend getting a custom grind that is made specifically for an NA motor. That is, unless you are sure you'll be going turbo. But, I think I would still have a custom ground cam since you can get em for around $100, then if you end up going turbo, just swap cams while you're at it.

We had a Euro cam in the race car, but I think we would have seen much larger gains from a custom ground cam...

yup, the Euro cam has lift, but not much more duration than stock.

Decent regrinds are out there for cheap.

And it's not as simple an equation as putting a cam in and instantly gaining torque.

The cam controls the entire attitude of your engine really. A "bigger" cam will allow you to keep the valves open longer, so you can stuff more fuel and air into the motor at a given time.

Something like the Colt Cam turbo cam, or even a custom ground CA cam will get you profiles in the 270º range, .410 lift ...

you just have to make sure you have the old ca20e with the mecvhanical valvetrain or you won't be able to use the cam.

If you want free power from a ca20e, advance the timing.

If you're somewhat mechanically minded and you can find another ca20e distributor (with vacuum advance)

I'll let you in on a little secret ;)

what years had the Vacum advance?

If you're somewhat mechanically minded and you can find another ca20e distributor (with vacuum advance)

I'll let you in on a little secret ;)

:confused: What's this secret you speak of? :: Stares at his vacuum advance dizzy ::

It's all just theory ATM, but I'll find out for sure.

With vacuum advance distributors, there are weights and springs, which determine how quickly your timing is advanced.

Basically on the shaft of the dizzy are two weights held in place with springs. As the dizzy spins faster and faster, the weights start to overpower the springs. Once the weights are out, you are in full mechanical advance.

Now an old trick (and one some places still charge hundreds $ to do it) ...

I know on old Mopars, they use 2 different springs - a light and a heavy spring.

That way you get some advance at low RPMs, and more at high.

The trick is to swap out the heavy spring for another light spring.

That way you get full mechanical advance in about half the time.

I have a blow up diagram of a vacuum advance dizzy, and I can see the weights and springs, I just don't know if they are 2 different sizes.

You know what years the CA20E's had the Vacum Advance?

You know what years the CA20E's had the Vacum Advance?

i have an MK1 i believe 86, so i'm gonna go with the MK1's having it. 84-first half of 86.