Me and my cousin are trying to fix up our turbo s12 for drifting. my question is what kind of suspension parts would i need to handle better, and be able to go side ways. thanx. 8-)
Browse › Tech ›Brakes, suspension and wheels
Drifting Suspension!
This thread was saved without dates. "Around Apr 2005" is estimated from neighbouring threads.
A stiff rear end is good for going sideways, as basics you need a LSD or locker first, drift won't happen without one. Basically the same sort of thing you'd do for sporty driving but perhaps a little lower and harder than usual Just play and see what you like. My own setup is an almost entirely S13 front end with 5 degrees of camber, 7 degrees of castor and stiff springs. The rear end is just lowered springs and shocks but i need stiffer springs in the back really.
Front(maybe rear aswell) strut brace(s). Nolathane sway bar bushes etc.
thanks.
so i need the entire front end of the 240sx. and lower springs and struts in the back. where can i find lower springs and struts that fit.
and also, the steering wheel is a little hard to turn. what do you suggest to fix it.
Nah that's just my particular setup, stiffer spings and better shocks all round on stock struts etc is just fine.
As long as the steering is easy to turn at speed you should be fine, increasing castor will only make the steering harder to turn as will larger rims etc.
Bigger swaybars maybe, although with really stiff springs it won't be nessessary. Strut brace on the front is probably not a bad idea cos the S12 is fairly flexy. Nolathane everywhere is good to.
But in order of importance
1) LSD
2) Stiff springs/nolathane
3) Strut brace/swaybars if needed
4) Castor/camber adjsutment etc
thanks.
so i need the entire front end of the 240sx. and lower springs and struts in the back. where can i find lower springs and struts that fit.
and also, the steering wheel is a little hard to turn. what do you suggest to fix it.
If your after cheap drift suspension then just get yourself some aftermarket springs front and back with upgraded shocks. Then weld your diff. Also a rear swaybar too to help with getting the ass end out.
Im guessing you have a manual steering rack? If you do then your fine, as when your going 60kp/h+ your steering is very light and very responsive!
Just remember that it will need tweaking. If it's to understeery add a rear swaybar or whatever and feel how the car changes. See what sort of attributes you like and work on it. My car started out with just stiff front springs, rear swaybar and LSD. Now it has the camber wound up, custom castor rods, stiffer rear springs etc and i still want to change things hehe
thanks for your feedback guys. if i have anymore questions, i'll be sure to ask. :p
thanks for your feedback guys. if i have anymore questions, i'll be sure to ask. :p
hey man update your profile so we know where you are from.. and what neb said about covers it
Then weld your diff
Don't mean to be a thread jacker, but all the talk about welding diffs, doesn't that make it pretty much undriveable on the street?
Don't mean to be a thread jacker, but all the talk about welding diffs, doesn't that make it pretty much undriveable on the street?
yes but thats why you get yourself 2 pumpkins... weld one and swap it in whenever you wanna go drifting and then swap back to drive around town
Man, how long does it take to swap pumpkins? I'm guessing it doesn't take long. LOL...
Man, how long does it take to swap pumpkins? I'm guessing it doesn't take long. LOL...
1-2hrs maybe less with practice
On a live axle definitely alot less than 1-2 hours. Jack it up, wheels off, undo tailshaft, take off drum hats, undo hub thingys, pull axles out a bit, unbolt the diff, yank it out, put new one in bolt hub thingys back on, drum hats on, tailshaft on, fill with oil off you go.
driving with a welded diff isnt as bad as everyone makes out. if you have a heaps stiff rear set up, the inside wheel will just break traction easily when u do a tight turn. the guy who ownes garage-13 drives a fully drifted S13 with locker daily, and he said its not a problem, and it also makes the rear end heaps predictable when wideways, unlike an open diff or worn LSD.
but each to their own, neb's preferance list is right on the money.
catch yas
is it actually a locker or a mech LSD??
mech lsds will clunk and bang and the inside wheel will break traction too.
only really tight ones, most are pretty tame, my factory style one is unotticeable in turns. I can have that changed for some $$ tho hehe.