part to stop chain rattle?

Hey Fellas,

Just curious how much space there is in the s12 wheel well?

Garrett

you can fit a 245 in the rear with the right offset wheel.

The front you are limited, not sure how much since i'm running coilovers now but i know you can't fit an 8" wide rim in there, i'm going to be running 9" rears next time i go drifting to see how it goes, they should fit with 225s but not alot of spare room.

I have 225/50/zr16s on 16x7.5" '86 Z31 Turbo rims on my S12... they RUB horribly in the back (they're eating the side walls below the tread line... argh) and the fronts BARELY clear when turning... I had to roll the fenders in a little front and back, and they still rub in the back... I'm thinking of putting 215s on then 7.5" rims for better clearance... =(

i have S13 SR rims on my car, with 205 tyres, and they clear the front struts by about 4-5mm!

the rears are fine.

S13 SR rims are only 15 x 6............so maybe spacers or better offset is the way to go.

I currently have a set of S13 aftermarket jap racing rims on my 84 Gaz. Its R16, five spoke, four bolt and f*cked up offsets: 37mm for fronts and 38mm for the back. I use qrt inch (~6mm) aluminium spacers on the back and it clears the inner side wall by about 5mm. I blew two back tires when I didnt have spacers there. The fronts are okay but there is rubbing on guards, but so far tires are not being worn excessively.

Tires are Hankook Kingstar 205/55 directional.

Lol and i have a original factory spare rim and tire.

I fitted my 16x9s to the rear last night to see how they go. They are a +37mm offset and suit the IRS rear end just fine. I think 225x50 R16 is the biggest i can fit in the rear guards on a 9" rim. Usually i run a 205x55 R16 on a 16x8 rim with +25mm offset, they are quite nice a fit, the 16x9s will just be drift rims so some ammount of scrubbing won't be a problem if it occurs.

Try Z32 TT rear rims. 16x8.5 with a 245/45 tire fits perfect on the rear without any modification. The front Z32 rims are 16x7.5 with a 225/50 tire and also fit well.

it sounds like the TT wheels are the way to go then. sounds like you can basiclly turn your 200 into a Z car

Try Z32 TT rear rims. 16x8.5 with a 245/45 tire fits perfect on the rear without any modification. The front Z32 rims are 16x7.5 with a 225/50 tire and also fit well.what are the offsets on those wheels?

It would be great to run with 245's at the back for launching!

what are the offsets on those wheels?
I should clarify that the front Z32 rims that are 16x7.5 with 225/50 tires fit well on the rear as well. They do not fit on the front without a good sized spacer.

The offset for the 16x8.5 wheel is +35mm. The offset for the 16x7.5 wheel is +45mm. I have fitted both sizes to the rear of my S12.

I should clarify that the front Z32 rims that are 16x7.5 with 225/50 tires fit well on the rear as well. They do not fit on the front without a good sized spacer.

The offset for the 16x8.5 wheel is +35mm. The offset for the 16x7.5 wheel is +45mm. I have fitted both sizes to the rear of my S12.you will need a 20mm spacer for the front with that offset.

what was the part i needed that would my fj of that awful chain rattle. wasnt it some tensionor of an old 323? could i know what year and what other info i need so i can go order the part? thanks

See Ben Diggle's article on FJ20.com

The mazda part number for this is 3953-12-500A

How much of the engine do I need to open to change the chain tensioner.
can I change it by opening the little cover over the tensioner ;)
Or do i need to open the whole front cover :wall:

And what tools do I need to do the operation?

Here is a picture of the little cower over the tensioner!
Sorry, my english is bad.. Im from Norway you see..

You can change the chain tensioner from the cover but it is safer to remove the rocker cover as well. The problem is getting the old tensioner out without parts falling into the sump. I just packed some clean rags under the tensioner to stop anything from falling to far.
Tools you will need are a file or a bench grinder and a small socket set (think 10mm socket is all you need) I made a small gasket and ground the small oil hole over a bit to help with oil flow.

NeilYou can change the chain tensioner from the cover but it is safer to remove the rocker cover as well. The problem is getting the old tensioner out without parts falling into the sump. I just packed some clean rags under the tensioner to stop anything from falling to far.
Tools you will need are a file or a bench grinder and a small socket set (think 10mm socket is all you need) I made a small gasket and ground the small oil hole over a bit to help with oil flow.

The oil hole in the mazda part that I had
did not quite line up with the oil hole in the block,
so I made a gasket to help oil flow.
Did you make the oil hole smaaler so the oil build up more presure No I tryed to make it flow better. Check the alignment of the oil holes you may not need to do anything. It was close I'm fussy.
From memory the areas you need to grind I have marked in yellow.

okay ...

on the paint the tensioner looks different, but its just the little one I have marked on the picture that I should change? Not the long arm, right??

Thank you for all the help :burnout:

Every body is making this sound quite complicated for a fairly simple 15min job.

Once you have the Mazda ratchet tensioner, remove the rubber thing and metal backing the rubber is attached to. The metal backing on the rubber is pressed on to the shaft so you will have to persuade it to come off. Be careful not to score or damage the pin in anyway.

Now you have a tensioner that looks exactly the same as the original FJ20 part but with a ratchet to stop the chain tension from backing off.

Use the standard gasket for the chain tensioner or make one your self using gasket paper. Be sure to make the hole for the oil to pass through.

When installing the ratchet tensioner you will notice a lever, and a hole in the front of the tensioner. Pull the lever down and put a small nail or screw through the lever and into the hole in the tensioner. This will stop the tensioner from ratcheting when you are installing it.

Now put the gasket on and bolt the new ratchet tensioner in. Be careful not to over tighten the top bolt because it will squeeze the bore in the tensioner, and stop the pin from being able to move out freely.

Remove the small nail or screw (which ever you decided to use) out of the tensioner. The lever should come up and tensioner should slide out and be working. If the tensioner does not slid out, it is most likely you have over tightened the top bolt on the tensioner. Loser the bolt slightly and it will work.

Put the tensioner cover back on and start the car.

There is no need to take the front engine cover or rocker cover off.

u will have to grind some of tensioner ,because if u dont it will crack it's housing. it will still go in and work as we intend it to without grinding it but it will crack and could fail completly and if that does happen ur chain will get caught on the alloy casting on the timing cover , which will lock up and rip the gears of ur cams.

ps fantasy if u han't ground a little bit off ur mazda tentioner it would be a idea to pull it out and check it. i thought mine was woking fine then noticed it when i was rebuilding my fj

DATTOu will have to grind some of tensioner ,because if u dont it will crack it's housing. it will still go in and work as we intend it to without grinding it but it will crack and could fail completly and if that does happen ur chain will get caught on the alloy casting on the timing cover , which will lock up and rip the gears of ur cams.

the face the tentioner sits on has a recessed circular machined face and the tentioner just fouls aginst it . my first one cracked on the back of the tentioner where the ratcheting mech little pin is located (not the install pin hole) but then again the size that the tensioner face on the head could vary and your one could of just fit in but check anyway. because prevention is better then cure. i'll try and find my old one to take some pics, also of the face on the head today as i have a few engines apart

DATTOthe face the tentioner sits on has a recessed circular machined face and the tentioner just fouls aginst it . my first one cracked on the back of the tentioner where the ratcheting mech little pin is located (not the install pin hole) but then again the size that the tensioner face on the head could vary and your one could of just fit in but check anyway. because prevention is better then cure. i'll try and find my old one to take some pics, also of the face on the head today as i have a few engines apart

I think mine was a non intercooled one