Well it's been 6,000 miles since i've had my setup. As far as it driving like a daily driver it's been doing good. It gets it share of flogging too unfortunately quite alot of it.
So any way I pulled the plugs on it just to see if it was doing ok and the result, as you can see, is the pic.
I'm pretty sure this indicates lean. Now unfortunately what you can't see becuase of the focus of the camera is that on the rim of the spark plug is some carbon build up that's kind of blistered away. Last night I did another G-Tech on Hi boost (it was around 13-14) a dissappointing 15.3 came out of that.
So far this is approx. how it's been driven:
1,200 miles of highway
5,000 miles of city driving a 1000 of those are slightly abusive
770 miles of hard driving
30 miles of no mechanical empathy
when I do run it to redline it leans out all the way to 14.7 but it doesn't lean out further. Could the TPS not be hitting the WOT contact? Any other Ideas?
Seems lean
This thread was saved without dates. "Around Mar 2005" is estimated from neighbouring threads.
I always thought that you wanted it to be around 12:1 when hitting full boost, 14.7:1 for nice part throttle around town. So IMHO, I'd say you're running lean. Are you running a SAFC?
no stock electronics. I do have an upgraded fuel pump doubt that's why it's lean. 14.7 is where it should be at cruise. I'm thinking the ECU like stays in closed loop at WOT hence why it goes down to 14.7 but no further. Though it could be just a coincedence and it's leaning out for some other purpose.
As soon as my pulsar is up and running I'll be able to start changing some more things on the 200. I'm brain storming...
It's not your TPS as the CA18ET cars don't use the WOT switch in the TPS like the CA20E cars do. The wiring harness for the TPS on the CA18ET only has 2 connectors in it the 3rd one that is omittted is the WOT connector. Reason being that the CA18ET uses a hotwire MAF and doesn't need to know if the pedal is on the floor or not since airflow increases as the throttle body opens. The CA20E model with the flapper maf needs the WOT switch because it is possible for the flapper to be fully open without being totally at WOT hence the WOT switch so the ECU knows to change modes and kick in some more fuel.
Is the two pin in your's? Mine is a Three pin. This makes sense to me because in the diag. process you have to press the throttle pedal the throttle pedal to the floor to clear code 32. Why would you have to do this (and why would this do anything) if there is no other contact besides the idle contact?
No no no. The wiring harness connector only has 2 female connectors (the plug that connects to the TPS, yes the TPS has 3 prongs but the connector will only have 2 female ends inside it). Look at the wiring harness end instead. The reason the ECU knows when you press the gas is because when you aren't pressing it the IDLE switch (composed of the two pins that are used) has continuity. When you push the gas pedle down the continuity breaks. Don't believe me try the tests in the FSM on testing the TPS.
oh ok... hmmm I wonder what else it could be. Maybe I kinked the fuel rail when I replaced an injector.