This thread was saved without dates. "Around Sep 2004" is estimated from neighbouring threads.
Do I need that stuff that is on the underside of my hood the thing that looks like insulation. Because above where my intake is it is falling apart, it looks like my intake is sucking it apart. I want to take it off, will that mess-up anything????
I removed mine years ago. It's just there to protect the paint from the heat of the engine. I haven't had any problems with my paint as a result of taking it off, and like I said, I've had it off for years.
I removed mine years ago. It's just there to protect the paint from the heat of the engine. I haven't had any problems with my paint as a result of taking it off, and like I said, I've had it off for years.
I did the same but the paint is now discolored in places on my once beautaful black hood :( I do drive mine hard so that is apart of it too. all the way to 7,000 rpms every shift
...remind me to look you up the next time I'm in seattle so I can shoot you
redline everyshift!?
...remind me to look you up the next time I'm in seattle so I can shoot you
redline everyshift!?
lol... well almost. just testing how strong the vg is first hand. four years now. no major problems (I have a spare)
I always thought it was fireproofing ...
then again. since I've seen it catch fire, that wouldn't make sense
I did the same but the paint is now discolored in places on my once beautaful black hood :( I do drive mine hard so that is apart of it too. all the way to 7,000 rpms every shift
That's why the good lord invented high heat flat black enamel, and why people with fast cars used to paint their hoods flat black ;)
I did the same but the paint is now discolored in places on my once beautaful black hood :( I do drive mine hard so that is apart of it too. all the way to 7,000 rpms every shift
Couple of things here - I also drive fairly hard, still no paint problems. But, maybe I'm just lucky. Just FYI though, if you're waiting until redline to shift, you're losing time. With just an intake as a mod, power drops off dramatically after 5700 rpm. If you haven't shifted by 6000, you're going to be slower. Also, the factory rev limiter is set at 6500 rpm. How did you get rid of that?
Couple of things here - I also drive fairly hard, still no paint problems. But, maybe I'm just lucky. Just FYI though, if you're waiting until redline to shift, you're losing time. With just an intake as a mod, power drops off dramatically after 5700 rpm. If you haven't shifted by 6000, you're going to be slower. Also, the factory rev limiter is set at 6500 rpm. How did you get rid of that?
87 plus, har limiters, but older VG's I don't hink did, so an ECU swap might work...8)
Hmmm, my limiter with my stock ECU was 6500. My limiter with the 88 300ZX ECU is 6500. I also have an 84 300ZX ECU, but I have never tried hitting the limiter with it. I'll have to give it a try. LOL
there is no 86- VG. they're all 87/88
..ive hit 10,000 (or so..LOL) rpms w/ my VG..but i aint proud of it..it was shortly after the "new" tranny install, the (shifter)rods are bent (all 3 of them) and the gears are over farther..i was going from 5th to fourth at about 65 and got second..CRAP! kinda eery seeing that tach bury itself!
there is no 86- VG. they're all 87/88
I think he meant older vehicles with VG's, like the 84-86 300ZX.
..ive hit 10,000 (or so..LOL) rpms w/ my VG..but i aint proud of it
The rev limiter doesn't seem to be active in neutral. I've free reved to 8000 before.
the mk1 turbos dont have a rev limiter mk2`s do
If you haven't shifted by 6000, you're going to be slower. Also, the factory rev limiter is set at 6500 rpm. How did you get rid of that?
My first 87 se only went to 6500. This one cuts at 7000. I dont know what ecu it has. but it pulls harder than my last se did all the way up. My other se didn't have power after 5700 like this one. The date on the ecu is 86
If it has a sticker on the face of the ECU that lists all the engine fault codes, then it's a 300ZX ECU. If it doesn't, it's probably the stock ECU. However, the ECU isn't what makes the car run out of steam above 5700 rpm, it's the ultra restrictive intake plumbing, upper intake manifold, and heads. If you dyno'd your car, you would see that by shifting sooner, you would actually gain.
I think he meant older vehicles with VG's, like the 84-86 300ZX.
That is what I meant...I know the SE S12's only came in the MKII version...but I can see where the confusion happened...:|
Man I forgot about this thread I started, it turned into what people shift at and rev-limiters o-well. Might as well put something in about that too. I hit redline once getting onto the highway in third it pulled harder but my mom got mad!!! she was like "I am not gonna pay for anything if something brakes!"
I wont be doing that anymore, or at least when she's not with me..
I did the same but the paint is now discolored in places on my once beautaful black hood :( I do drive mine hard so that is apart of it too. all the way to 7,000 rpms every shift
Early 80's Nissan cars had shitty paint... the clearcoat wore off early, and paint faded early... by 87, 88, they seemed to have fixed the problem.
well, I have an 87 and the paint was fine before I removed that crap. I also noticed this winter when it snowed, the snow melted in those exact same spots that the paint is faded.
well, I have an 87 and the paint was fine before I removed that crap. I also noticed this winter when it snowed, the snow melted in those exact same spots that the paint is faded.
My old mazda 626 was like this. Faded the bottom of the bonnet. This then caused the paint on top of the hood to crack, then it just got worse from there. Problem is the engine was producing alot more heat that it should have been so that probably farked the paint alot quicker.
How about putting some vents or louvers in the places the paint is gone? Makes the hood look nice and gets all that nasty heat out from underhood as well.
If it has a sticker on the face of the ECU that lists all the engine fault codes, then it's a 300ZX ECU. If it doesn't, it's probably the stock ECU. However, the ECU isn't what makes the car run out of steam above 5700 rpm, it's the ultra restrictive intake plumbing, upper intake manifold, and heads. If you dyno'd your car, you would see that by shifting sooner, you would actually gain.
Sorry for bringing up old news but I was thinking..... Ok my ecu is an 86' but my mafs the stock s12 one. The 300zx maf won't work on an s12 ecu and vice versea. So I must have one of the first sev6s that where released in the fall of 86'?
Actually, from what I've heard, the 300ZX ECU will control the S12 MAF just fine, but not vice versa. It doesn't matter what the build date of your car is, the stock ECU was the same for all '87 model year S12 SE's.
when i had my setup in, it worked Either way.
z31 ecu + s12 maf = Raised idle
s12 ECU + z31 maf = Lowered Idle
Now, these results may not be typical, im just reporting what i saw.
so then wouldnt logic preside in saying z31 maf and ecu = even idle? hmm
but why would the paint fade in the one spot on your car but not other vg30 200sx? the high RPMs (therefore more heat)?
so then wouldnt logic preside in saying z31 maf and ecu = even idle? hmm
yea..guess i forgot that part, lol. My idle didnt change at all with the z31 setup.