Roadmap to 200whp?

Hi guys, got any good recipe for guaranteed reliable 200whp out of a CA18ET? Cheaper the better of course! :D

Hi guys, got any good recipe for guaranteed reliable 200whp out of a CA18ET? Cheaper the better of course! :D

intercooler and increased boost..

the std t2 **should** see you to 200bhp, but this will be getting pretty hot down there...

best to upgrade to a t25 off an s13 and intercool that..
easy 200bhp then, and the injectors will allow you to push to 250bhp before things start leaning out :):)

I don't think the t2 will get you to 200hp. Not even 200 HP at the crank. Me and Bart both were running as much boost as the little t2 would flow and we made 150rwhp and 160rwhp between the two of us. A t-25 might get you there, but I have some doubts. I've seen 2g DSM cars make just over 200HP with the stock t-25, but they have an awesome head. The other problem is that our rods are quite weak. I've read in some places that they are only good for about 200HP, although me and bart should both be pretty close to that and haven't thrown a rod yet. On the plus side, our fueling system will support about 200rwhp without needing any upgrades, in fact, you will probably need a fuel controller to lean the mixture way out when trying to make that much power.

My recipe would include:
intercooler
t-28 or better turbo
fuel controller to lean mixture out
advanced timing
upgraded MAF sensor (I'm not for sure the stock one will read high enough for 200hp worth of air)
60mm throttle body
electric fan
get rid of the air box and add a free flowing exhaust to compliment it

Some small head porting would probably help some too, but shouldn't be neccessary.

I don't think the t2 will get you to 200hp. Not even 200 HP at the crank. Me and Bart both were running as much boost as the little t2 would flow and we made 150rwhp and 160rwhp between the two of us. A t-25 might get you there, but I have some doubts. I've seen 2g DSM cars make just over 200HP with the stock t-25, but they have an awesome head. The other problem is that our rods are quite weak. I've read in some places that they are only good for about 200HP, although me and bart should both be pretty close to that and haven't thrown a rod yet. On the plus side, our fueling system will support about 200rwhp without needing any upgrades, in fact, you will probably need a fuel controller to lean the mixture way out when trying to make that much power.

My recipe would include:
intercooler
t-28 or better turbo
fuel controller to lean mixture out
advanced timing
upgraded MAF sensor (I'm not for sure the stock one will read high enough for 200hp worth of air)
60mm throttle body
electric fan
get rid of the air box and add a free flowing exhaust to compliment it

Some small head porting would probably help some too, but shouldn't be neccessary.

i thought about doing all that to my s12 engine... but then i thought.. it just isnt worth it, and its cheaper to buy a ca18det lump

so ive got my lump

my gt28r turbo is sitting waiting to be used ( brand new )

all i need now is a 300zx afm (£100 ) and a mapped chip ( £100 ) and i can sit at 270/280bhp

:evillaug:

So, what kind of boost are we looking at here for 200rwhp? 15psi? 20psi?

I'm running at 13psi on a 60trim t3 wheel (the same as a t-28 would have). I should be really really close to 200rwhp if I'm not there. I'll try to get it up on a dyno in a few weeks to see how much power it really makes.

So, what kind of boost are we looking at here for 200rwhp? 15psi? 20psi?

the std fueling is good for 14psi :mike:

the std fueling is good for 14psi :mike:

14 psi on a t2 or 14psi on a t66. 14psi at 3,000 rpms or 14psi at 7,000 rpms. Manifold pressure isn't a good way to measure your fuel requirements.

I would say the stock fuel system is good for at least 200hp to the wheels. I've blocked off the wastegate on the t2 and made 17psi at 3,000 rpms with it still running a 10:1 A/F ratio. With the 60trim t3 I'm using now, I have boost set to 13psi and it would like to run richer than 10:1 all the way up to 6,000rpms. The biggest issue with the stock fueling system is finding a way to lean it out.

....is finding a way to lean it out.

Ohh there's a way... :evillaug: so far I've gotten to 14 psi and it's still at 9:1.

Probably not the best way but I guess it works

man, my car must be weird. i can start to lean out at 15psi@3000 rpm and again at anything over 11psi at 6000 rpm. i've taken out the stock fuel pump too... maybe my a/f gauge or o2 sensor is wonky.

but while boosting the power delivery was pretty smooth.

14 psi on a t2 or 14psi on a t66. 14psi at 3,000 rpms or 14psi at 7,000 rpms. Manifold pressure isn't a good way to measure your fuel requirements.

I would say the stock fuel system is good for at least 200hp to the wheels. I've blocked off the wastegate on the t2 and made 17psi at 3,000 rpms with it still running a 10:1 A/F ratio. With the 60trim t3 I'm using now, I have boost set to 13psi and it would like to run richer than 10:1 all the way up to 6,000rpms. The biggest issue with the stock fueling system is finding a way to lean it out.

I would say the stock fuel system is good for at least 200hp to the wheels. I've blocked off the wastegate on the t2 and made 17psi at 3,000 rpms with it still running a 10:1 A/F ratio.
But what kind of EGT's are you running?

No idea what kind of EGTs on the new turbo, I don't have an EGT gauge. I would think that they aren't too bad since generally EGT and A/F are proportional (richer = lower EGT, leaner = higher EGT). It could be something totally weird though. I haven't blown the engine up yet in the 90 degree heat at full boost, so I suppose I'm okay for now...

On the old turbo, I'd say the EGT was pretty high. My wastegate hole wasn't looking too good, a sign of a lot of heat and backpressure. The poor little t2 really can only support about 10 psi at 6K rpms. I certainly don't recommend running the t2 past 14psi due to the fact that it's a crappy turbo, I was just trying to make my point that saying 14 psi is a fuel limit is a stupid thing to say.

As for sschung, it might be that your o2 sensor or gauge is a little screwy. My narrow band sensor never shows really rich either. But two widebands tell me that I am. You can really only get an idea of your A/F ratio with a wideband o2, the A/F gauges that run off the factory narrow band sensor are good for letting you know of any overly lean conditions, but it's really worthless as a tuning tool. For some accurate numbers you might want to get the car to a dyno with a wideband, that should let you know what is actually going on. If it really is lean, you might want to make sure the injectors are flowing what they should be. Or it might be....

Me and Johnnyfive both would run crazy rich without any fuel control. We also both have 12V going to the fuel pump all the time. Bart's isn't setup like this and on the wideband he ran closer to 13:1. So, it could be that the fuel pump doesn't normally flow as much fuel as what mine and Johnnyfive's flow. Either way, if you're wanting to make 100% more power than stock, you will need some fine tuning.