What does your A/F gauge do under the many conditions that car goes through like idle, cruise and WOT. I'm asking becuase i have a greddy A/F gauge and it's a wideband and it actually tells me the A/F ratio.
Now the problem results from me not exactly knowing how the car should act stock (I did all my mods including the gauge at the same time). And I think it's not running perfectly. here's what i get:
All of these are when the car is at Operating tempature
Idle: Sometimes is 14.7:1 (stoich I know) with an intermittent (with no drop in RPM and will stay for a few minutes at) 16:1 and sometimes the car idles high and when it does the gauge jumps around from 14.7:1 to 11:1 staying mostly near 14:1.
cruise: 14.7:1 ALL the time. i know that's good
decel: 16:1 Normal as far i've learned
slight accel no/low boost: 14.7:1 i think this is right
medium accel 1.5-3psi: 14.7:1 I think this is good too
medium accel 4-6psi: Depending on throttle position the guage could jump all the way to 8 and sometimes 10:1 and other times the gauge will stay at 14.7:1 and jump around the richer side and the car will be almost trying to jump. I don't think this is right
WOT is where i am sketchy on I know it's supposed to be rich but I don't really know how much. i know for optimal power the A/F should be about 12.5 a little richer if you want some safety margin. but here is what I get
WOT boost controller on Lo (8.8-9.0psi): sometimes it will jump to and stay at 8:1 until redline where it'll get to 9:1 other times it will go to 10:1 and slowly lean out to maximum of 12.5 by redline.
WOT boost controller on high (12.5-12.7psi) Again it sometimes it will jump to 8:1 and then lean out to about 9.5:1 (obviouly more more air) and then sometimes it'll do exactly the same as Lo go to 10:1 then lean out to 12.5:1
Now In higher gears it will lean out sooner than redline but i haven't gone to redline in 4th or 5th :evillaug: so I don't know if it would lean out any more.
My mods affecting the engine areas follows
Volvo Intercooler and Radiator
2.5 in. Intercooler piping
1g Dsm BOV
T25 Turbo from a 300ZX or S13 (not sure which)
3 in. exhuast from turbo back with high-flow cat
Greddy profec B elec boost controller
Walbro 255lph fuel pump wired into the ignition
Greddy A/F warning gauge
Autometer boost gauge
Sorry for the long post.
A question to those with LED A/F guages
This thread was saved without dates. "Around Sep 2004" is estimated from neighbouring threads.
When I had my buddies wideband on my car tuning the S-AFC, my car ran richer than 10:1 any time I was on the gas at all. His sensor would only read a maximum of 10:1, so it was richer than 10:1 at pretty much all times. My fuel pump is wired to 12V all the time though.
Mine too and I have stronger fuel pump (noo I couldn't get the wimpy I got HP one :evillaug: ). But then what would cause it to run leaner every once in a while. The ECU getting it's bearings and sees that it's using too much gas then forgets? I wouldn't think so. Could it be my one or more my injectors are locking open from trying to inject more fuel? I do have have larger I/C piping maybe I'm using more air than I think?
well, a lot of it has to do with our ECU
as it flip flops between open and closed loop, the AF values will be all over the place.
i plan on putting one of the led a/f guages in my 240sx only thing though is i am going to be running it off the innovative systems wideband o2. the unit has several outputs you can use and they are even programable to some extent. i just have to figure out the values that the o2 meter uses for lean/rich and i can then set the output on the wideband so i will have a true wideband o2 using the led guages.
hey one_equals_two does your car run leaner than you tuned it every once in a while?