shifter question

not matter how many descriptions i get, it just doesn't work for me. as i'm new to cars. so i took a photo under my car and maybe one of you guys can have a look at it.

http://www.silvia.sincrographix.com/Picture%20001.jpg

http://www.silvia.sincrographix.com/Picture%20003.jpg

That would be IRS.

yup IRS with a leaky diff ;)

Yah that is a definite IRS setup. Please update your profile GBear. Off the top of my head though I would say it is a MKII CA20, but this is only because I don't see any body kit at all...

i'd say i was sold a bit of a lemon. so i really needed to know if it had irs, lol someone told me irs was in sept '85 models and up and the manufacturing date on my car is march '85 so i kinda freaked.

leaky diff eh. ahh well the car's engine is as good as dead anyway =|
I have an 83 S12 with IRS as standard so I dont know where they got that from

will the short throw shifter for an 89 to 94 ka24 S-13 fit the tranny from an 86 ca20 powered notch?

how about another question......    if the s13 front cut from japan with the cadet motor bolts upto are tranny, that makes me think the tranny that comes in it isnt that diff, so does anyone know of a short throw shifter for a jdm s13 ca18det? might be worth a look :guitar:

...Have you flipped around your shifter bushing yet? Try that and it shortens up the throw a bit for free. Also: Check around your local scrapyards for old Nissan 280ZX cars with manuals. Those should bolt in (Dont ask what year, I dont know, I just yanked it out an stole it) It also brings the shifter closer to the driver and slants back slightly and is overall about 1\" shorter in length over our stock shifters. So that\'s my 2 cents...

if you have the FS5W71C trans the 240sx short shifter will work. If you have the 71B trans it will not. The 71B uses a cable linkage and the shifter bushing flip works on this or so does the 280zx shifter apparently.

would the c tranny bolt upto a ca18det or are the c and b trannys very different? nevermind i found the thread to anwser that, however, how do you determine what tranny you have? c or b? :violin:

there is a metal (kinda shiny when new) plate..it has your engine code, and tranny code on it (along with some other stuff)...you\'ll see a \"b\" or a \"c\" after the FS5w71

you mean the VIN? or the tag on the engine? ahh ill find it, thanks :RTFM:

went to try the flip the bushing trick today on my car, but .. it doesn\'t work?  I can\'t get the bushing to fit upside down... it just won\'t go in... what am I doing wrong?  Somebody have a pic?

*EDIT*  Nevermind.. stupid me.  Forgot about the spring.. it was a bit stuck, and I thought it was a metal part of the shaft itself.  So that\'s why the bushing wouldn\'t fit.  doH! :wall:

Reinstalling the shifter like this won\'t pose any danger to my tranny will it?  Really doesn\'t seem like it, but just thought I\'d check and see if anybody knows, just to make sure this won\'t make it stick too far down..

As for hacking a couple inches off the middle of the shaft, then reattaching it.. is there another way to do it besides cut and weld?

Errr....wrong. The 71B tranny doesn not use any sorta cable linkage crap. It\'s all mechanical. I know...I have two of them on my garage floor. I\'ll take pics if you want.

to cut threads into something you\'ll need a tap and die kit, or just the die.

Taps cut threads into something (you drill a hole, then \"tap\" threads), dies cut threads ONTO something (you take a rod, and it cuts threads onto it).

They\'re not very expensive for a small kit, and pretty cheap individually.

What I would do in your case Cjae, since you\'re new to the whole idea.

Buy a shift knob. Take the shift knob to the bolt section of your parts store, and find out what size bolt threads into it (unless it says on it what thread it is, then you won\'t need to).

Buy the appropriate die. It will look like this.



Those are taps on the left, dies on the right, and the handle to use either.

So cut the rod of your shifter to the height you want it. Remember that the threaded part will go inside the knob, so account for the extra height.

Then you take the appropriate die, and use it to cut threads onto the bare rod. Now your rod is threaded, so just screw the knob back on.

i did the cutting the shifter thing..and didnt make threads on the shifter. i just bought a shift knob that uses three set crews to hold it, it works great!

NOTE: i had to cut the shifter, the knob was stuck..still is..!

I can just feel that this is a stupid question,...but how / what do I use to tap threads into the ends?  And is there a certain size bolt that will fit in there perfectly?

i did the cutting the shifter thing..and didnt make threads on the shifter. i just bought a shift knob that uses three set crews to hold it, it works great!

NOTE: i had to cut the shifter, the knob was stuck..still is..!

set screws all the way

glue it on..

lol

didn\'t your knob come with like little rubber sleeves?  the set screws are actually supposed to dig into those..not directly into the shifter

but mine does and it stays so meh.

..man, rubber sleeves would have been nice! now my shifter is all kinds of marred..but alas, i just so happen to have a COMPLETE (minus one reverse idler gear, and bearing) FS5W71C tranny laying around, so ill just re-cutt, and put in some thin walled hose or something..and if that dont work...LOTS OF GLUE BABY!!!

i\'d say i was sold a bit of a lemon. so i really needed to know if it had irs, lol someone told me irs was in sept \'85 models and up and the manufacturing date on my car is march \'85 so i kinda freaked.

leaky diff eh. ahh well the car\'s engine is as good as dead anyway =|

Bah - the diff is fine.  It has a small leak around the fill plug.  Put a light bead of silicone around the last couple threads closest to the head and it will be fine.  No worries.

By the way IRS stands for Independant Rear Suspension, if you have a look under your car you will see the diff is fixed and the suspension for both sides of the car move independently of each other.  The other type of rear end is a live axle, it\'s a solid diff and axle setup which moves as a complete unit.  The diff will be fixed to both axles solidly not the body.  That might help you in future.

Yep, that\'s what an R180 looks like.

Just for referance, I have a 1985 (march) Gazelle, it has IRS and 4.11 rear.

i\'d say i was sold a bit of a lemon. so i really needed to know if it had irs, lol someone told me irs was in sept \'85 models and up and the manufacturing date on my car is march \'85 so i kinda freaked.
 
leaky diff eh. ahh well the car\'s engine is as good as dead anyway =|

\"manufacture\" of IRS cars for the Aust. market started in march 85, but of course it took time for the cars to be consigned, loaded and shipped to Australia, (nb all gazelles for Aust. were fully imported, i.e. completely manufactured and assembled in Japan and then shipped to Aust. as complete cars), so by the time they got their Aust. vin plate and associated date, that would be at least a few months later. So manufactuer date plate would be 3/85, but Australian vin plate would be a few months later.

NZ got heaps of used Japanese imports, so JimJam your car would be one of these. s12\'s delivered \"NEW\" to the Australian market, which I presume included NZ, manufactured before 3/1985 were all 4 link non IRS type. I am 100% certain of that, as I have a workshop manual which has the service supplement update in it and it says changes for the Australia market were IRS, from the manufacture date of 3/85. Having checked out a heap of cars also at wreckers etc also, everything with a build plate before this date has been 4 link type vehicles.

Or alternatively if it was a new to Aust. market car, your build date plate, (which is only a skinny little thing that could easily be lost in a front accident), has been lost off yours due to accident damage or something and they have replaced it with one off a different car. I have an 87 parts car here , but my sr20det transplant car is an earlier nov 83 build plate car. I have got IRS here, (off the 87 car) for it so i could easily put the 87 build plate on it, and get away with it. The build plates only have a year and month on them and nothing else.

Thats right, new zealand with no car market of it\'s own has everything and anything.  Mostly completely JDM cars or australian cars but there is all sorts of obscure stuff over there, i got hold of some second hand car mags and stuff when my dad was over there last year, it\'s got to be confusing for any non-car person over there cos all the different market cars with all their different names (even if they are the same thing) are available.  I wish we had the price and availablity they have though Sad