PCV Valve hookup and heater hose hook up.

As some of you may have read, I discovered that my PCV valve was hooked into the heater hose line. And the other hose that was supposed to be hooked to the PCV valve I guess went were that water line was supposed to go. I have seen a pic of under the manifold, but was wondering if anybody had a pic of the manifold and block with the lines hooked up, or at least a pic of the connections at the block where the PCV hose hooks into as well as where the water line is supposed to go. (The water line in question is T 'ed off of the heater line coming off the thermistat housing.) I found a drawing of the oil seperator but was wondering if anybody had actual pics of what it looks like and about where it is. I am going to see if I can find it since I found this drawing in my manual, but if anybody can help out with a pic of these lines and where they go would be great.

Nobody out there has a clue what I am talking about, nobody has taken any pics of there engine while its out of the car? Well, I think I found that oil baffle, now just need to find that other coolant line is. Would be nice to actually see what it looks like under there.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs/247000-247999/247116_18_full.jpg

Right now, 21 is hooked to 20, this is not right., I know the PCV goes to that oil baffle near the oil filter and the alternator. But were does 21 go to? Right now all I can do is just feel around, any pics to were these lines go?

Ahhhh, looks like fun, but at least you are working with the manifold out. I replaced all those without taking it out.

21 goes to the front of the car and attaches tee off a large pipe which connects to the lower radiator hose.

Ron

Hey Ron, do you have an image like that for the CA18ET? Thanks!

Here you go
Ron

Ahhhh, looks like fun, but at least you are working with the manifold out. I replaced all those without taking it out.

21 goes to the front of the car and attaches tee off a large pipe which connects to the lower radiator hose.

RonUm, its not out. Thats just a pic here on the boards.

Hey Ron, can you send me that pic of the Ca20. Its kinda small to see anything.

on the way
Ron

Got it. Got the hoses hooked up where they are supposed to go. Just need to find a hose with a bend for the PVC valve. Right now its kinked, might explain the oil leak out the front I have now :wall: . Drained the watery oil out and put some fresh oil in. And started her up, after regapping the plugs (Have another problem with that, damn # 4 Cylander). I got it to idle, reved it a little bit, a let it off and it wanted to die. Wouldn't really idle after that, but it was able to rev to 5000. This motor I believe is just shot, I got some scraping noise coming from, What I think is where the flex plate bolts to the torque converter (Anybody got an exploded veiw of this?). Funny thing is, I don't here any kind of tapping or knocking, but I am getting the sign that the piston is hitting the spark plug (See comment about # 4 cylander). If I could, I would just yank the motor out, and tear it down. But right now, that would be as far as I could go as I don't have any money (Did have 2 interviews today though). Best thing right now would be to get a used motor, or for about the same price, go get that SE from Oakdale about 20 min away from me. :devil:

The flex plate to convertor attachment looks pretty standard in the manual. However the breakdown of that section is fairly poorly done. What exactly are you trying to see?

Also could you clarify the piston and spark plug scenario? Valve/piston crash I can see, but sparkplug seems odd.

Ron

I have the auto trans, I couldn't see were the bolts go into the torque converter or if the converter has the teeth on it instead (Like the Chryslers). As for the piston to spark plug, thats the only thing I can think of that would smash in a spark plug. especially after regapping them. I must have a ton of slop in either the rod bearing or maybe the rist pin allowing the piston to come up more than usual. I pretty much figure this motor is toast and should be torn down or replaced.

There is also like a grinding noise under the car, probably from the flex plate and torque converter. I don't know what else it could be, unless its something internal. The scraping is the only thing I hear when I rev the engine. I don't hear any other tapping or punding inside the engine, which then doesn't explain the problem with the spark plugs getting hit.

The drawing shoes no teeth on the convertor, just on the flex plate. Depending on which view, there are either 3 or 4 bolts that connect the flexplate to the convertor.

I don't suppose you have a borescope? It would be useful to see if there is something in the cylinder, as it would take some fairly severe wear or damage to allow spark plug contact. It would also be useful to check the convertor/flex plate assembly.

An idea in the short term is a sparkplug extender. They are normally used to prevent oil fouling, but will move the electrode away from the combustion chamber. Its sort of a little pipe with threads that go into the cyl head, and then the sparkplug screws into it.
Ron

I never thought of something in the cylander. Will have to check that out when I get a chance. I know what you are talking about, those plug anti fouler. they screw on the the spark plug and then into the head. Could give that a try. Just need to get a closer look at the flex plate, I serously doubt its bolted up. Will just need to find the bolts. Probably another trip to pick n pull.