Starter Issues

I got a remanufactured Bosch gear reduction starter.....and it worked fine for the first week, then all of a sudden when I went to crank it I just got the "click" sound each time I turned the key. Now it also seems to be intermitant, because it doesn't do it every single time.
I got a brand new Optima battery, and at the starter solenoid it had 12.6 volts......enough to crank the motor. The parts store tested it on their machine, and it tested fine, but they went ahead and ordered me another one. I've had the second one on for about 4 days......and it has been fine until last night.......same thing "click". So i'm wondering if it could be something besides the starter/solenoid?? Like the signal wire from the key that plugs onto the starter. I jiggled that wire with the key in the "on" position, and noticed that their was a quiet click coming from the group of relays under the black cover right in front of the wiper relay on the driver side fender......but to the best of my knowledge these are all head light related relays...anyone know for sure? Also, when I jiggle that signal wire I noticed that all of the lights that should come on, on the dash weren't on.....then when I jiggled that wire they came on.
Anyone have any suggestions where to start??
The Clymer shop manual says to jump it with battery cables from another car, and if it still clicks, and won't start to replace the starter......it's a bad solenoid....which is what i'm wondering what the problem is....since with both starters the problem started after about a week of installing.

I had the same thing happening with my starter on my V6. It was the starter signal wire that slips onto a spade on the starter solenoid. I just cleaned the metal contacts at both ends, and collapsed the metal contact in the connector so that they would make better contact with the spade. It's worked fine ever since. I hope it's that simple for you as well.

Hey thanks......i'll give it a try. Hopefully it will be that simple

your battery could also be going out also try your battery grounds as well as all yuor power wires

Everythings new......Optima battery, battery cabels, Altenator, starter, and everythings nice and tight. 12.6 volts at the battery with the car is off, and at the starter too....so it's getting plenty of juice.
I just went out and tried spooled's theory.....and hopefully that will take care of it. I cleaned the female plug that slides on that post that is the key signal wire with tb cleaner and got it nice and shiney, followed by some dielectric greese on that post......so far it has cranked everytime (6-7 times) so far, and all of the dash lights that are suppose to come on when the key is in the "on" position have come on too.
If this doesn't take care of it, I wonder if the solenoid gets too hot or something.....because everytime it hasn't started is after driving it in 100+ degree weather.....and if you factor in underhood heat on top of that.

yeah, when a starter gets hot it can seize up. I know on my Charger I have to run a heat shield for the starter for similar reasons.

But, that's nestled in between headers.

Is the starter grounded properly? If it's getting 12.6v (which is still quite low for a new batt. IMHO), it should spin.

I'd change all the leads to the starter if the problem creeps up again.

If you're losing the lights on the dash, that leads me to think there's definitely a break in the system. Basically it's got a good enough connection to show the voltage, but under load it craps out. Especially if wiggling the wire made a difference.

=If it's getting 12.6v (which is still quite low for a new batt. IMHO=

Actualy, thats what the standered battery voltage is, anything higher is just surface charge (Unless its a 16 volt racing battery). After running or charging battery, it will always read higher then 12.6 volts. Thats why when your testing it, you should turn on the head lights for a minute or two to remove that surface charge to get a batter reading. Another thing is cranking amps, a bad battery could still show 12.6 volts but may not be able to put out the amps. More in likely its that wire you have been playing with.

Well.....so much for that therory......I just drove it about 10 miles to get gas, and when I got back in I got the........."click". tried it 2 more times, and it cranked. After that I drove it another 15 miles or so to go to the store. When I got back in......same thing...except it would never start even after letting it sit for about 25 minutes to let it cool.....which it probably didn't do much of since it's already about 100 degrees outside. I tried it about 15 times and got the click. I eventually had to touch a screw driver to the 2 posts to get it to crank.
When I got home I tried the "on vechicle" test thats in my Clymer manual.....which says "try starting it while using jumper cables hooked up to another car......if it still doesn't crank, bad solenoid, replace starter assy."
Another question......has anyone ever used a gear reduction starter on their S12? This is the first one I ever used on it in 15 years....I've always used the direct drive type with no problems. Is the gear reduction type more delicate to heat than the direct drive? Because like I said I only have the problems after re-cranking.....first crank of the day it fires right up.

My taurus does the same thing. it was much worse before replacing the cables and Battery and silnoid. You may have a defective starter, is it a reman or rebuilt one or is it new? Sometimes they fail because they reuse the older parts, as long as it tests ok it good to go, but may fail later down the road (Why I always get the lifetime warrenty if I can.) It could possiablr be something in your ignition switch. May a corroded terminal or its wore out, when it heats up, probably dosn't make good contact. Or the wire is all corroded on the inside going to the starter and when it heats up the resistance will also increase in that wire (the one you were fidling with).
You said you have takin the starter up and had it tested, was it tested on the bench or in the car? You may need to have the whole system checked. If its not the starter, then it has to be something else in the circuit. Do these have starter relays. It could be the relay is just old and worn and when heated it could no longer keep the circuit open long enough to crank the motor.

Is there a starter relay in the S12's? I've never checked, but I know that a common problem in Z32's is that the starter relay starts to go out. The symptoms are the same as what you're talking about. Intermittently working and not working. If you have a service manual, I would check into that. Just another idea.

When I got the starter tested it was on the bench....and it tested fine. They ordered me another one though and it is the one that is currently in there....and it's a Bosch reman unit.
I messed around a little more this afternoon, and I ran a jumper wire from the black/yellow wire at the back of the ignition switch and ran it direct to the terminal on the starter. It started everytime when I turned the key. Unplugged it and hooked up the wire coming out of the wiring harness back to the starter, and got the click. So...looks like it maybe in the wiring harness somewhere. I just need to find if there is a relay somewhere or if it runs direct to the ignition switch????? I do have the OE alarm with the kill switch built-in so it at least runs through the alarm.....right?
Damn!! I finally get the new motor broke in and now this!!

I did a little homework tonight with the FSM, and looks like there are 2 relays for the starter. According to the diagrams in the FSM the black/yellow wire that goes from the ignition goes to 2 relays on the passenger fender behind the battery. They are covered by a plain black cover and looks like 6 relays are in there.
Anyway the black/yellow wire goes to the Interrupting relay which is black, and then to the A.S.C.D. Inhibitor relay which is Gray. from there it goes to a wiring harness connector, then finally to the tab on the starter.
So......I think I will check these 2 relays first and go from there....Anyone know how to test the relays??

Well.....went to the local pick n pull today, and got 4 relays, and 2 ignitions, and still got the click when I turned the key. After calling and speaking to a Bosch rep, he thinks it's the solenoid on the starter, so I took it off and went back to the parts store so they could order me another new one. Except this time I got them to order a direct drive type instead of the gear reduction type....since thats whats always been on the car. Well see. It's suppose to be here Monday.
On a different note the pick n pull got a new arrival since my last visit.....a '85 turbo. It was pretty much raped though. Had the hood scoop, but looks like someone took a jig saw to it to try and make it functional. Looked terrible. What a waste.

Anyone know how to test the relays??

Been wondering the same thing. Let me know if you find out how.

Well...........my new starter came in today......warranty starter # 3!! I put it in, and it fired right up. So looks like it was the solenoid on the other 2 Bosch ones......pieces of shit!!
Also, went with a different brand, and also a direct drive which is what came on the car instead of the gear reduction which is what the 2 Bosch's were.
We'll see.......hopefully this will take care of it for more than a week!!

I wish you luck, because click click is a pain in the ass! :wall:

Well...........my new starter came in today......warranty starter # 3!! I put it in, and it fired right up. So looks like it was the solenoid on the other 2 Bosch ones......pieces of shit!!
Also, went with a different brand, and also a direct drive which is what came on the car instead of the gear reduction which is what the 2 Bosch's were.
We'll see.......hopefully this will take care of it for more than a week!!

I had an Autolite reman that wouldn't work right for me, so I got a Bosch unit instead... hope it'll last! What brand did you go with now after the Bosch units couldn't hack it?

Better than Click Click Booom :bomb: . Hopefully that starter will work for you.

This one is made by OCA inc. Never heard of them....but i'm running out of choices. I've tried duralast and autolite too and they both worked, they just sounded like I was cranking up a riding lawn mower.....very noisy! You can't even get a new one from Nissan anymore......reman only @ $180.
This OCA one has a life time warranty.....whereas the Bosch only had a 12 mo.
Just like all other Bosch products i've given up on them for quality.
Hopefully this OCA unit will stay working.....so far so good!!!

What is the difference between direct drive and gear reduction? Can our bell housing handle either or?

IIRC the gear reduction uses a 2:1 ratio gear (smaller) than the direct drive (1:1). With the gear reduction, more torque is applied to the flywheel to get you started. They also make a cooler sound.

I had that starter problem before and it's exactly as you described. In my case it was the contacts on the wires that was connected to the starter. I just took the wires out and sand the tabs clean. That was over 10 years ago and the starter still works fine.

funny thing, but not funny now. my car use to do that when i first bought it 3 years ago. i have no idea what to do. i change every thing and it still "clicks". so i got a new CD player cause i wanted one, and put it in my car. and my car stop "clicking" for a year. now it is starting to "click" agian at some stop.
i hate that "click"!!!

Still no problems with the direct drive one......I really think it was that the 2 Bosch ones were defective.....since they both worked fine for about 1 week before they quite working. I think that if it was something besides the starter unit I would of seen the symptoms before installing the first one.
The gear reduction one bolts up the same way as the direct drive does.....only thing is you have to lower the intake manifold bracket that connects to the engine mount bracket so you can get the starter in and mount up......as it's about 2 inches longer than the direct dirve.
The peformance of the gear reduction one doesn't justify the price difference.
Gear reduction $149......ouch!!
Direct drive $79

The direct drive one has always cranked the car just fine.

Im having the same damn problem. Went out for a drive pulled over to make a roll up (yes im a student :finger: ) and she started clicking. Since then i think i managed to fix the prob...but...now the starter wont connect to the flywheel:wtf: It jus spins :( I wouldnt mind too much coz i live on a hill but she's an auto so im screwed. I dont get how it fixed itself but i have done alot of messing about with direct batt to solenoid connections and i've pulled out the solenoid. I have a nasty feeling i havent put it back in right tho...any one got any pics or a guide of how it goes back in? I miss my baby!!!!! :(