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Electrical Problem

Started by nismos12x · around Jun 2004 · 14postsvBulletin 2004–05

This thread was saved without dates. "Around Jun 2004" is estimated from neighbouring threads.

nismos12xdate not saved · #1

Ok when i first got my 200 it ran perfect nothing was wrong with it at all. Now my brake runing lights dont come on, my licence plate light dont come on but my reversal lights work, my running side marker lights dont come on but my signal lights work, and for some reason the car cant hold a battery charge i have to unplug the negative cable so it wont kill the battery....AND ONE MOOORE THING!!! While im drivng with my headlights and once in a while switch on my cooling fan the battery bar almost goes al the way down almost killing the car. If any one can PLEASE HELP! me with this pain of a problem it would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks! :-?

Johnnyfivedate not saved · #2

bad battery connection combined with weak alternator. Had the same problem with my car. The alternator wouldn't charge the battery and the car would stall sometimes when I hit the brake if I had the heat or A/C on.

Although I should look at an alternator my problem was fixed by retightening the cleaning the battery terminals

Keithdate not saved · #3

Yeah.........happened to me a few times over the years.......push the button to roll down the windows, and the car would die. Usually was the Alt. power wire had burned off somehow from the back of the alt.
Hasn't done it in a very long time since I switched to a thicker gauge wire.....but always the first sign that I was about to lose power was the radio would be the first to shut off......after that I would have about 10 minutes depending on how fast I was going before the battery drained.

nismos12xdate not saved · #4

I was wondering if anybody has/had the same problems as i do?...a buddy of mine said to disconect the negative battery cable and touch it slightly and if there is any type of spark than that means that i have something running or on when the car is off :bs: ....and that seems to be my problem what ever short that is its killing my battery and putting my alt under serious loads and keeping it from properly charging. Anyways, has anybody had/have a solution to this problem? if so any info would be great!

nismos12xdate not saved · #5

woooohoooo! I fixed my electrical problem!!! :banger: Car is almost 100%....all i need now is a good loud bov :evillaug: and intercooler(cheap). Any suggestions on which type intercooler or bov i should get? (thax keith your imput worked!)

Keithdate not saved · #6

Hey no problem............glad I could help.
As far as BOV's....I got the HKS SSQV. Thing sounds freak'in good.....has a nice high pitch sound. I got it at Racing Zone Auto House in Tampa when I lived there for a decent price. There is a Racing Zone somewhere in Orlando as well. Never been to it, but the one in Tampa was pretty good.

nismos12xdate not saved · #7

Hey no problem............glad I could help.
As far as BOV's....I got the HKS SSQV. Thing sounds freak'in good.....has a nice high pitch sound. I got it at Racing Zone Auto House in Tampa when I lived there for a decent price. There is a Racing Zone somewhere in Orlando as well. Never been to it, but the one in Tampa was pretty good.
Yeah a buddy of mine had the ssq bov in his second gen eclipse....it became my favorite bov. Because i was gonna get the intercooler first which do you think would be good to get? (think cheap)

Keithdate not saved · #8

Conquest front mounts are pretty cheap and I have heard they will fit with little mods. There are a few people on here that have used Volvo 740 intercooler, and radiator. Not sure how well they work, but you can find one pretty cheap.
'86-'92 Supra front mounts could be a possibility.
Do you have A/C? This is my problem because I want to keep the A/C so finding an IC that will fit in front of the condensor, and below the dryer is gonna be a challenge.

Johnnyfivedate not saved · #9

As far as cooling the volvo Rad should be fine. I drove it without boost for a few months. Here it is (complete) in my car

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533844_43_full.jpg

I'm sure everyone's seen it by now... ;) I haven't had the car running long enough to really put it through it paces with boost. But as of this moment it's had 5.3 psi running through it with no problems.

Keith asked me if it interferes with anything. No it doesn't hit the Power steering lines. The A/C lines are close but don't interfere. The only thing only thing you should have to do is get a smaller battery. As the original one interferes with the pipes.

The car has in it right now...

Volvo 740 I/C and Radiator, T25 turbo, Greddy ProfecB spec II boost controller, Autometer boost gauge, Greddy A/F gauge, Greddy turbo timer, 1G DSM BOV, 2.5 in. intake piping and a full turbo back 3in exhaust will be going on soon. I also have magnecor wires (not pictured), and on the way are iridium spark plugs, and MSD SS blaster coils.

I was inspired to use the volvo equipment from this site

http://hem.bredband.net/gabvar/intercooler%20install.html

It's from Zman he's on this board somewhere

Soon it will be ready.....

nismos12xdate not saved · #10

He guys do any of you know where the security system module of our 200s are located? because i may have found the reason why my car has a short in it.

Keithdate not saved · #11

It's underneath the passenger seat.

nismos12xdate not saved · #12

It's underneath the passenger seat.
Weird....Thanx!

sidewaysdate not saved · #13

i think they are on the passendger side behind the rear seat

Alex Frostdate not saved · #14

Is there a fuse for the security system??? If so, it might be easier to try that first, rather than tearing your car apart trying to find a module...8)