1985 200sx died on the road has good spark' but fuel pump doesn't come on ,but it will if hot wired. also no red or green lights come on in the ecm so i put a new one in---duh $175 out the window now i,m lost please help
no start good spark
This thread was saved without dates. "Around Jun 2004" is estimated from neighbouring threads.
Ok ... where to start.
If the fuel pump will come on when hot wired, check the fuse in the fuse panel as well as the fuel pump relay. If those all check out, check the wiring on the actual sending unit (what the pump bolts to). Mine was icky and rusty, but still works ...
As for the ECM, if you bought one you don't need, post it in the classifieds, someone will likely need it.
The green and red lights only come on when you tell them to, I'm guessing you figured that out now.
tank area is fine i hotwired from the main harness pump will come on but injectors are not fireing the lights should come on when diagnostic mode is selected (no power to ecm?) as for the spark proves the distributor and timing belt are fine it could jump a tooth or two but this is noticeable when it does this. im looking for somthing like the fusable link to be bad but i checked it. the other thing that happened a week ago is the alt went out but when i put a new one in it didn't work either i found the ing switch power(field terminal) wasn't there so i ran a jumper to the battery feed. so i feel there is a failure in the main harness because both of those wires (fusable link and field terminal) are in the same harness that is so tightly routed and i dont know where they go and i cant find a good wire diagram that might identify a bulkhead connector to check.there is b+ and ing+ and even ground at the ecm but i dont have a pinout to check all the pins
ok removed battery box found lots of interesting areas able to fail as wire harness runs under the fender. theres a ground under there which is easily eaten by leaking acid and relays which are also eaten the worst is the grey one does anyone know the color/function of these.the schematics posted above for ecu pinouts should help alot
final unanswered reply ----here it is the fusable link connection to the battery (the two brown wires) had just enough corrosion so when you tested them with a test light it lit but when you put a load on it eg cranking engine fuel pump running. didn't have enough current to run the injector and fuel pump aka no start so the $175 ecm cost me really $178 and a good old fasioned slap to the forehead ($3 for the new battery terminal) it was good talking to ya all thank for the help (lol) and always rember K.I.S.S(keep it simple...)remember the japanese superstars that built these things are much smarter than the guy at napa
Yeah, sorry I couldn't be more help ...
I know exactly what you're talking about. I had a ton of really strange intermittent problems, crazy idle etc etc, then horrible huge clouds of smoke.
After freaking out for a few days, I decided to just do some general maintenance stuff, and found my negative battery cable was toast. What frigging "smarter than the guys at NAPA" engineer decided crimping the ground wire DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY TRAY was a good idea? *lol*
Of course all around this hidden crimp, the shielding had been worn off and the wire turned that lovely powdery green. When I grabbed it and tugged on it, it broke apart.
The end on the battery looked brand new, and the other end into the block was also spotless. Shazam ... everything worked great.