sr20det swap

I just completed a sr swap in my 84 s12. It was a ca18det originally and now that the swap is done my cluster wont work becouse of different signals. Does any body have any ideas????

I\'m in the same boat as you but it\'s the fact that i have the DET now and not the ET thats the problem, hope it works out for ya. Share the info when you get it maybe i can use it too.

yo MCMK, you got the CA18DET in there yet? Does she run well (aside from cluster not working)?

I just completed a sr swap in my 84 s12. It was a ca18det originally and now that the swap is done my cluster wont work becouse of different signals. Does any body have any ideas????

I have a analoug dash with my SR20, i ran a mechanical sender to my speedo instead of the SRs electrical one, to run the tacho i ran a set of wires from the coils signal wires with diodes on them to the tacho, for the other guages i just left them as is or hooked up the appropriate wire.

so can the guys who have done the swap tell the rest how did they connect the engine harness to the electrical harness please?
btw srswap you were saying ca18det in your car before?  I don\'t think that engine was ever offered in det at that year.  You must mean ca18et.
you don\'t need to use s13 motor mounts
you can just change the engine brackets and it WILL work
tranny and drive shaft YES shorter

geoffdonk, Yup it\'s all done, after some adjustment to timing and a couple smalls things she\'s on the road tuesday at the latest.

when did you start the swap? like when did the other engine get pulled.

Yes my moter is a det bucause it was a turbo, and I started the swap this year. Took me a month because I had to wait for shit like the igniter chip and driveshaft. I pulled the moter out last fall took my sweat time in autoclass and just cleaned the hell out of the engine bay and measured specs for the swap.

Does anybody know what our driveshafts r rated for???
The 240sx is rated for like 400 + hp

^^^you sure your car came with the ca18det?
unless i am stupid beyond the point of non return that engine was never offered in det in north america and the only year that got it was 88.5-89.5
unless nissan changed the abreviations D doesn\'t stand for turbo son

ca-----engine code
18-----displacememnt (1.8L)
D------dual overhead cam
E------electronic fuel injection
T------TURBO
that\'s ca18det

ca18et is single overhead cam t2 turbo, 8 plugs in north america

Yes your right, I kept thinking its the ca18det just because im doing the sr20det swap and its been on my mind for so long that Im screwing up my specs. Stupid me! :hit:

Anybody know what the s12 driveshaft is rated for, and if my diff will handle 200 hp +?

yes it will handle a lot of power
not sure how much but it is well over 300hp
is ben running with stock drive shaft and z31 half shafts

you wont have to worry about poping anyhting in the rear until you hit past 300whp

Did you take note of nebercenezers post re the speedo and guages son?
He and others have experience with this with completed sr20det swaps into s12\'s here in Australia.

Here\'s what you have to do:

NB this is with the analogue type s12 guage cluster, (we never got the digital s12 cluster here but I presume they are the same. In my personal experience of 80\'s digital guage clusters in other nissan\'s they are very unreliable shit and you are better finding an analogue cluster at a wreckers)

1. Speedo drive.

Take the speedo drive pinion out of your old ca18et g/box and swap it into the sr20det g/box. Then just connect your ca18et speedo cable from you g/box speedo drive to the speedo, problem solved. Everything runs okay without the electrical signal from the sr20det electronic sender, only thing you will notice is that when you pull up that idle will drop momentarily, then pick up to normal immediately.

2. Tacho.

You need to find the 4 wires that go from your ignitor chip to your coil packs and (carefully!!) splice in 4 diodes on to each of these wires then join the ends of the diodes together to a single wire. This wire then gets connected to the 12v+ wire of your tacho.

\"......used 4x IN4004 diodes connected to the coil side of the ignitor, about 3 inches from the plug is easy enough, then just joined the 4 diodes together on the tacho side and joined that wire straight to the tacho, the stripe on the diodes is towards the tacho (not sure if that is anode or cathode), and there you go......\"

The input signal for your tacho is a yellow and red(stripe) wire that runs from the ECU to a small white plug that comes off the ECU wiring. Connect a wire from your tacho signal in wire to this yellow and red wire.

3. Voltage guage.

s12 signal to the guage is via a white and red (stripe) wire that runs through the harness to the alternator. There is a white and red wire on the sr20det alternator that matches this.

4. Oil pressure.

 Just swap the ca18et oil pressure sender for the sr20det one, (sr20det s13\'s only had a light not a guage) and hook your existing s12 oil pressure sender wire up to it.

5. Temperature sender

There is a blue and black (stripe) wire that runs to the same small white plug off the ECU that carries an engine temperature signal, connect your temp guage input signal wire to this, I think the temp guage then reads correctly, but check with nebercenezer on that.

6. Various warnng lights on the dash.

s12 has a brown wire than runs to the instrument panel warning light relay to trigger these.  There is a brown wire in the sr20det engine harness wiring somewhere that matches this and you need to splice this onto the s12 one before the relay. (i.e. when you turn your igntion to on these warning lights show and then when you start they turn off, (if nothing is wrong that is!!)).