Water in Oil, Now What?

Was trying to get my 200 running, fixed the hole in the oil pan so it would actually hold oil. Got everything hooked up, fill up the rad with water, fill with 3 quarts of oil to the full mark and try to start her up. She tries to start but acts like the timing is off. I then check the oil level as I was going to top it off after cranking and it filling the filter. Pull dipstick, damn, looks like foamy milk, damn water in the oil.
Its also leaking water under the exhaust manifold, probably a freeze plug. Ok, so I start pulling spark plugs. Started with the exhaust side, WTF, the electrod is bent and smashed in as if the piston hit it. So I regaped it in threw it back in, check number 2, its ok so I regap it. Number 3 I beleive had its electrode bent out words, WTF how does that happen? Bend it back and gap it. Forth cylander, smashed , regap and start scratching my head. Decide to look at intake side, same thing, by this time, I am thinking its time for a different motor, or the spark plugs are wrong. After regapping the intake side, and bending the electrod back I tried starting it again. This time it ran a little bit longer, a couple seconds. Pulled the plugs again, and of course some are bent again.
Grrr, went to parts america.com to look up the correct plug number for the 86, turns out that somebody got the intake and exhaust mixed up. I reinstalled the plugs on there correct side after regapping them again. And she fired right up and for the first time held an idle. Next day I go out and try to start her up, and she is doing the same thing as before. Bet the plugs are bent again. Sucks is that I am broke and can't do anything with it for now.
If the plugs weren't getting bent, I would just replace the head gasket and have the head checked out. I may still have the wrong plugs as the motor is from the wrecking yard according to the person I got it from and is apperently a different year motor, found that out when I was looking for the dizzy rotor, had to get one for and 84-85. I looked up the 85 for type of plugs, and I think they had the same number. But the 84 didn't have that number, I have the NGK R spark plugs and there was no listing for the intake side for these plugs on the 84. Maybe its just a misprint. Other that the wrong length plugs, what else could cause this, slop in the rod bearings or piston pin. Looks like my car is ready for another motor, to bad the old pocket book isn't.
On top of that, when I did get it running, I tried putting it into gear and nothing (Has an Automatic w/overdrive), no drop in RPM, no stall, no feelling of going into gear, damn, another thing to fix. I am hoping that the person who put this engine in (They should be shot by the way for getting a bad motor) just forgot to bolt up the torque converter to the ring gear, flywheel, whatever its called.
Now I have done some calling around, one place wanted to charge like $3000 to pull my motor, rebuild it and reinstall it. I said thanks and called somebody else. Another place said it could be rebuilt for like 1300, better, but still way out of my price range. called up a local wrecking yard, Can get a motor for $450 with a 30 day warrenty that they have had on the shelves the guy told me for like 11 years. He said the car was like 2 years old at the time and was bought at auction. Unfortunatly its an 87 motor, but the place would install it for like 500 more and it would be running when it left. Ok, keep this place in mind, if that motor has been sitting for 11 years, it should be there in a couple months. Next, call up a tranny shop about my tranny, they would of course have to look at it but it would probably be between 600 to 800 for a rebuild. But the tranny guy did give me a number for a local importer.
Called them up, and I can get an engine from them for like 295 plus tax. They couldn't help me with the tranny though. Another option would be to rebuild the motor or at least try replacing the head gasket and probably the head myself and hope the apartment management doesn't bother me. Hell, if i had the money I would just do an engine swap. Problem with that is depending on the motor I choose, I wiil have to get it by Ca emisions, and they kinda frown on JDM motors that were not offered here. The KA24 motor would be an option, Maybe even an SR20de with an after market turbo kit (Well, at least I can say thats what it is and get a full fledged SR20DET from Japan), Would just need the CARB approved numbers and stickers for a Us Model with that motor.

By the way, the neighbors got a little wake up call yesterday mornign around 8 in the morning, Thats the last time I tried starting it. The exhaust is disconnected from the manifold so it makes a little noise. Sounded cool though.

Hey, there's a 88 SE-V6 for sale in the classifieds - $500 Too bad it's all the way across the country. If you've got a garage and some tools, you might look at getting a junkyard motor and doing it yourself. It's really not all that hard to swap a motor for another motor of the same type. You'd save a lot of money, and learn a lot in the process.

hmm eiter you are having some major piston to head contact, well enough so that it hit the plugs, whcih would be cause by the timing belt skipping a few teeth or you have major ping from hell

Since I have never actually heard it run till now, I believe its contact, Why would the timing belt affect the piston hitting the spark plugs? I know it would be a problem with the valves. As for having a garage, I live in an apartment, closest thing I have is a car port. I management not wanting anybody working on thier vehicles on the premises. Course, I could push into the street, but then I have to deal with the city. Changing the motor out doesn't bother me, its that I have to wait to get the money for the motor and to rent a picker and such to pull it out. Can't be worse then pulling a 360 Chrysler motor out of a 76 and 77 Cordoba.

As for that vg, would love to have one, or even a turbo model even, but there isn't any around here even if I did have the money. There are some around here but they are asking way to much for them. And the closest was like 75 miles away.

Best bet right now is a wrecking yard motor, hopefully it will be better than this one which was also a wrecking yard motor. Found one for about $300 from a JDM importer here in town. And a local wrecker has one for $450.

Or maybe stick one of these in there.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7904948660&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Damn, I hate being broke. Found a reman Head for a ca20e on ebay that if nobody bids could get for less the $75 with shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7905505118&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

I am pretty sure if my sparkies are getting hit, and that the previous owner had to replace the timing belt. I will probably need that.

oem-surplus.com has new heads for the low low

This doesn't make a lick of sense. Either you have the wrong plugs in the engine or the wrong pistons or rods. The timing belt will have nothing to do with the piston hitting the spark plug. Unless it bent a valve so bad it hit's the sparkplug but that's pretty unlikely.

Either way If you want the car... You say you got this motor from a wrecking yard? Do they have a warranty? If you are going to fix this engine your self your going to need more than a head really you might not even need a head but you will have to take it apart and find out what has been broken before you go off and buy parts.

From what you said has happened I would take the head off look at the pistons and valves for damage, check the head for warpage, See if the piston goes past the deck. Replace components as needed.

From the above posts you seem to live in an automotive nazi compound. Good luck with your car hopefully you can keep it alive.

Yah, the funny thing. After switching the sparks around and regapping them (The plugs were on the wrong side with intake on the exhaust side and vise versa), it started right up and idled around 700 rpm. Next day it wouldn't stay running again. Haven't checked the plugs again yet. As for a warrenty, I wasn't the one that bought the engine. The previous owner bought it and started to install it like over a year ago as I got the car from them almost a year ago. I was checking on the head as the last time I worked on a car with a blown head gasket the head was cracked as well. The timing belt was supposidly replaced on it and I kinda question the mechanical ability of the previous owner. The other car involved in the exchange for this one was all messed up. I traded on old laptop for this car and a 91 Ford Probe. I checked the plug numbers and they were the ones recommended, just installed on the wrong side. I need the find the missing bolts for the exhaust, some of the neighbors were starting to complain (Its only the manifold not connected to the exhaust pipe, whats wrong with that?).

Got an update, its not all the sparks, just some. A lot less now that there in the right way. Buuuut.. The number 4 cylinder is still kissing the sparky. On the exhaust side 1,2,and 3 seem ok right now. 1 and 3 were bent before I switched them around but are not now after cranking her over. On the Intake side, 1 and 2 or ok, 3 I am not sure about as that cylanders sparky is missing the electrode tip that came off when regapped. And 4 on both sides had contact. As for replacing the head, If contact is this severe, my valves are probably not in the best of shape. Course, I will find out for sure when I pull the head to replace the head gasket.

Thought I'd add my .02 here... the intake and exhaust plugs are different heat ranges -- not different reaches. The fact that the plugs didn't hit after you changed them could be because:

a) there's a major lash or play somewhere (doubtful, because you would head a LOUD noise when running!)
b) you didn't tighten the plugs all the way when reinstalling
c) the plugs are mismarked -- (doubtful-I have never seen this happen, but get a caliper and measure the reach on them to be sure...)

As far as plug compatibility...

Actually, you can use NGK BCPR53S, Autolite 3924, Champion RC10YC/RC11YC/RC12YC <--- all three work for factory spec... you can use any of those plugs for all 8 =) The FSM considers that on the "hot" side.

The OE standard spec calls for BCPR6ES (or its associated cross-references) a slightly colder plug, on the intake side.

There is water in the oil, never mind why the plugs are hitting the pistons, bin the motor and get another, are CA20E's rare where you are? Over here there are millions of them cos they were offered in the local 910 bluebird, gazelle, pintara etc. No one wants them cos they are crap so there is a fair few in wreakers. It may just be cheaper to get rid of the whole car if the transmission is wreaked to, i dunno the value of the S12 in your area but over here they are cheap although kinda rare. My stock CA20E car cost me $1100au with 12 months rego, i got another one that could have been regoed for $200au and the car that i did my SR20DET conversion on cost me $300au.
And the closest was like 75 miles away
Thats not very far if you really need somthing you can easily go there and get it in a day.

This ones the closest listed right now. Its 70 miles away, but still, havent got the money or Id go after it.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=164651428&dealer_id=564891&car_year=1988&make=NISSAN&distance=any&max_price=&model=NIS200SX&advcd_on=n&end_year=1988&min_price=&certified=n&address=95307&search_type=used&advanced=n&start_year=1984&color=&cardist=70

Beleive this s**t, man, I would like to shoot the motha who put this motor in. I answered a post about the pvc valve. I looked at the picture and started thinking. Uh, is it possible that somebody hooked the heater hose line directly to the pvc valve? Was felling around underneith the manifold, and thats what it feels like.

http://images.cardomain.com/installs/247000-247999/247116_18_full.jpg

It fells like the hose comes from that T at 21 and goes directly to the PVC valve at 20. Does anybody have a pic of the block just below the manifold? There is another hose there that loops back and appears to go back to the block or something. My hole problem might because these damn hoses were hooked up wrong and may have f'ed up the engine.