How much you think this costs...

I got some mods in mind, so how much you guys think it will cost me?
Here they are:
T25 or T28 Turbo
Decent BOV
A decent size FMIC
Manderel Bent 2.5" to 3" Exhaust with cat

Now, I also need to know what springs I can use that will lower the car without any modification or fabrication. As well as adjustible struts/ shocks. And has anyone found any compatible sway bars that are larger/stiffer? (bolt-in) Oh yea, and one of Bart's strut tower brace. Rough guesses for the prices are OK. And any info on those other parts are welcome. Thanks!

1. T25 I got cost me 227 off ebay

2. I got an eclipse BOV for about 60 (probably a little high) off ebay

3. I got a volvo one for I think like 30 or so dollars. I have heard they have a decent pressure drop but hey it's cheap, big, easy to install and you'll have little problems routing your intercooler pipes.

You'll need the rad out of the same car (about 40) some hoses to put it in (a lot easier if you have A/C) maybe a coolant hose repair kit (has plastic sleeves you can use) and a smaller battery.

volvo intercooler write-up (http://hem.bredband.net/gabvar/intercooler%20install.html)

here it is in my car with the outlet pipes routed
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533844_27_full.jpg
i have a slight hood clearance problem but it still closes alright.

4. hmmm... depends on where you go. I am getting a 3in one (unfortunately it might not be mandrel) for about 200 or slightly more.

Don't mind me...just posting on the new forum to see that everything is all good.

heh, nice BOV Johnny5 ... I've got the same one.

Got a bit worried when you said "Eclipse". The newer ones are plastic, and leak over 10. You've got the 1G, which is good to over 20 uncrushed.

$60 is a bit on the high side, but still not a bad price. A lot of people are starting to see that they have to pay $300 to get a comparable unit, so the DSM guys are making a killing. I recirculated mine where the PCV used to pee oil into my intake.

Oooh, Stillen makes a sway bar for us. If you even bother asking how much, odds are you don't know who he is ;)

Let me put it this way ... most of us didn't pay that for the car.

T25 can be had for cheap if you're patient. I've seen them go for $100 needing a rebuild, and usually nearer to $300 for a rebuilt.

T28s are more, depending on where you are. North America didn't get a lot of them, so depending on where you are.

FMIC, again, what you find. If you use OEM stuff, can be under $100.

Damn, all the other post's are gone... :(

I got some mods in mind, so how much you guys think it will cost me?
Here they are:
T25 or T28 Turbo
Decent BOV
A decent size FMIC
Manderel Bent 2.5" to 3" Exhaust with cat

Now, I also need to know what springs I can use that will lower the car without any modification or fabrication. As well as adjustible struts/ shocks. And has anyone found any compatible sway bars that are larger/stiffer? (bolt-in) Oh yea, and one of Bart's strut tower brace. Rough guesses for the prices are OK. And any info on those other parts are welcome. Thanks!

-t28 off ebay will run about 200-500
-get a bov like mine was 80bucks off ebay...i'll get you the link
-starion thats the best one to get.. check ebay usually about 150-200
-exhaust is done through a shop or if you want to get a cat and muffler i can build you one
-as far as springs im getting that done as we speak heres a link
http://www.club-s12.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6349

ohh and my brace runs 70plus shipping

200 i used to sweat the DSMs and almost got a 2g but financing got in the way... :evil: But in Scc they compared like 20 or so BOV's and the metal dsm one was like one the best ones in the test. I going to have it vent in the same spot as yours. I just have to the hardware store for a 90 elbow and I should be set.

Hey bart... That looks like there was some fabrication/ wleding involved with your suspension. I need bolt-in stuff. I live in an apartment with my parents, and we are not even supposed to work on our cars here. So the easier, the cheaper, the better.

Hey bart... That looks like there was some fabrication/ wleding involved with your suspension. I need bolt-in stuff. I live in an apartment with my parents, and we are not even supposed to work on our cars here. So the easier, the cheaper, the better.

i do all the fabricating, and send you the entire setup so all you have to do is switch the parts

heres the bov i have the main imput pipe is 1.25inches, fully adjustable, can handle up to 45psi of boost

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/243000-243999/243105_162_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/243000-243999/243105_205_full.jpg

Well, when I looked at that spring it seemed that it was really crooked, and when you would lower the car off the jack that it would be curved. I got the info on the direct replacement springs anyhow. 280ZX fronts and Z31 300ZX rears. But will they lower the car if I get them as "lowering springs"? and if so, does one set lower more than the other? I.E.: The rear would sit lower than the front because the Z31 rear springs lower more than the 280ZX springs? Thats another concern I have.

ya in that pic they do but i changed the design so the collor sits at a angle so the spring has a perfect angle now

Oh cool. I also read a bit of that and there was some cutting... I'm not to fond of cutting things.

Oh cool. I also read a bit of that and there was some cutting... I'm not to fond of cutting things.
the only thing you cut is the rubber spring isolator that site on top of the spring so it doesnt sqeak.. really easy

Ah, Are you gonna work on a front kit? Or are you gonna leave that up to us?

man check the thread out and you will see

http://www.club-s12.org/board/showthread.php?t=6012

Funny, I kept going cheaper on my BOVs and they kept getting better. I bought an atmospheric AutotechnicA one new for $60 Cdn. That one sounded great, but as soon as I went over stock boost, it started leaking, and would pretty much just stay open if you went over 10 PSI. From there, I used a plastic DSM one that someone bought for me. I wasn't specific enough when I said DSM. They just grabbed the first one they saw. That was $30. That one was better, but still sucked over 10 PSI. So I got the proper 1G DSM one I'd wanted all along, and it works fine. Haven't pushed it over 15, but DSM guys say 20 is pretty much the limit, although some people are over that on uncrushed ones.
I like the sound of the DSM 1G too. The plastic one "fluttered" it had a really soft sound. The first craptacular one I had made the standard air brake dump sound. The DSM one is like a blend of the two ... subdued but still metallic sounding. I guess metal pipes have some effect on the sound.

:confused: I just finish putting a k&n cone filter and a 2.5 cat-back exaughst on my 85 200sx and it opened the car quite a bit. But heres my question, i have a manual boost controller and the directions it came with didnt really explain on how to install it correctly, if somebody can please help this ROOKIE out i would appreciate it. (i have installed nessesary gauges)

which mbc is it

Well I got it off of ebay for like $16 its from schneider racing prouducts.

look at the turbo. On the side where the intake pipe attached to it there is a small hose. That is the hose to the wastegate. You need to get 2 peices of hose that are that size only much longer. Pull the stock hose off and put the new hose in. Then attach your MBC between the 2 hose ends. Adjust as needed until you are at the level you want.

Good luck with getting it on there though. its pretty tight. You may need to pull the turbo outlet pipe to the TB off to get at the one clip

thanks for the tip!

well if the mbc is a ball/spring combo then it will be very important which way you plumb the mbc in

My mbc is a ball and spring type so which way sould it be routed? :confused:

you want the ball end to be pointing towards the boost side. So the hose that seems to go on with no kinks at all will want the ball end. The other end will almost always be kinked when you put it on the wastegate, that end should have the spring side on it. If your not sure then loosesn it as far as it will go. then blow into it. The end that allows air to go through it will be the end to point at the turbo. The end that closes when you blow in it should be connected to the wastegate.

If you have it wrong you will know on the first test drive. your boost will just keep climbing. If that happens pull over right away and turn it around. Or turn the pressure down on the MBC

Thanx! but even so my pov souldnt let my boost climb past 7psi right? :???:

It will let it climb, but will bleed off the extra boost. You need to try and screw it closed (Good luck I never could do it) or pull it off and put a 1" plug in it. Mine is plastic and seems to be working just fine.

but on removing the pov wouldnt i need to put a bov in its place?

a BOV works on the other side of the throttle plate. So the POV does a slightly different job of the BOV. You can run the car just fine with no POV and no BOV. MANY MANY cars dont have a POV. In fact the 200 was the first turbo car I have had with one on it. I am planning to get a BOV anyway, but for now I have nothing.

but wont the motor blow without the release of excess boost preassure? thats what the pov does right?

the POV opens in case something went wrong with your turbo and you are boosting above 6 psi. But you are trying to boost above 6 psi. Thats why you bought the MBC. So if you think the engine will blow by going above that then you should put the MBC away and not start raising the boost.

Yes there are certain risks involved with raising the boost, but as long as you keep an eye on it and keep it within a certain level the car should be fine with no POV.

If you wish you can prolly boost above 6 psi with the POV on still. There is a point where it wont open. So if you turn the boost up to 9 psi you will spike to 9 then the POV will open and slowly bleed you back down to 7. OR your turbo will be spinning2 times faster than it needs to to keep your boost at 9 psi. So having the POV in place may burn your T2 out faster.

DISCLAIMER: Its not my fault if you blow your engine by following my advise. This is strictly "Fictional" information. You can choose to beleive it or not. :-P

thanx really you have been a great help!

no problem. Let us know how it goes over.

I would still look at a BOV though. Especially if you are raising boost. these T2's dont seem to be all that tough. a quick shockwave of backpressure is all it needs to blow the compressor apart.

ya my t2 died with about 50k on it from that about 10k was hard use

Yup yup yup putting an MBC in before tossing your POV is just hurting your turbo. The turbo will be trying to boost, but the POV will just bleed it off. So your poor little T2 is spinning harder and harder, trying to generate boost.

Here's what you need to do to your POV

http://img75.photobucket.com/albums/v228/mr200/200sx/POV.jpg

Good luck getting it out intact. I had a bitch of a time pulling mine.

You'll need a 1" standard NPT plug, available at any good hardware store, and bolt it in the hole

http://img75.photobucket.com/albums/v228/mr200/200sx/POVplug.jpg

Get a BOV. Even in stock trim these cars are killing the turbo slowly.

Do not take your ca18et over 10 PSI without installing an intercooler.

A DSM (mistubishi eclipse/eagle talon/Chrysler Laser) or Mazda MX6 GT turbo/Probe Turbo SMIC (side mount intercooler) are cheap, and the Talon ones outflow just about any stock available FMIC. There's a good site posted on the old board where Gus Mahon did a comparison of factory ICs for pressure drop and flow. The Talon one was way up on the list.

If you browse your local DSM boards' For Sale section, you could probably score a SMIC and 1G (first gen, stay away from the 2nds) BOV for $100 as a package. Then you can feel free to crank the boost until your T2 cries.

When I bought my car this weekend, a BOV has been stuck into that hole... should I relocate it and just plug that hole?

When I bought my car this weekend, a BOV has been stuck into that hole... should I relocate it and just plug that hole?

i wouldnt be surprised if it wasnt a bov but a aftermarket pop off valve

I'll take a picture tonight...

That's gotta be moved. It won't be doing what a BOV is supposed to do being on that side of the TB. After the TB is just overboost protection. A BOV has to be mounted upstream of the throttle body.

Could be an adjustable overboost valve. Greddy/Trust makes one that fits our cars. Although I kinda doubt that is what you have on there.

the easiest way to tell if its a pov.. is if it doent have a vacum port then its a pov if it has a vacume nipp;e then its a bov

either way ... if it's in your intake manifold, it's there to keep your motor from coming apart – not to keep your T2 from being grenaded from shockwaves.

Then again, I'm really starting to believe there's nothing you can do to save a T2 ... just delay the inevitable.

Yea. The inevitable happened to my pint sized T2 before I got the car. Thats why it went from $2500 down to $1400. Damn. I need a turbo. I'm sick of telling people that I wont race them because my turbo is seized...

Not to side track the discussion but nemisis how many miles were on your car when you bought it?

My car has 182,000kms on it when I got it on the weekend.

Okay, here's the pics of what I'm talking about. Is this a POV or a BOV? If it's a BOV, then it's in the wrong place :(

http://ctl.unbc.ca/~peter/200sx/bov1.jpg
http://ctl.unbc.ca/~peter/200sx/bov2.jpg
http://ctl.unbc.ca/~peter/200sx/bov3.jpg
http://ctl.unbc.ca/~peter/200sx/bov4.jpg

that, kind sir, is a non-recirculating BOV and is useless on your vehicle. i suggest removing it and selling it on ebay. Otherwise hang it up on your wall.

oh well at least it's going to be easy to take off and plug.

edit: oh BTW thanks for telling me your mileage but I was talking to nemisis :lol:

WOOT! random smilie time

:RTFM: :boxing: :spy:
http://www.mr2oc.com/images/smilies/deadhorse.gif
http://www.mr2oc.com/images/xtrasmilies/banana.gif

non circulating BOV's can be used on the car. You just need to be prepared to have the car stall in some cases when you come off a fast acceleration. I know of a couple people running non return systems now. In the spot where that is it wont be doing much of anything though. If you decide you dont want that one send me a PM Ill buy it.

Sorry, I'm new to all these... so, can't I just move it to before the throttle body and use it? What's the difference between the non-recirculating BOV vs. the recirculating kind and our cars need the recirculating kind?

Stinky, I'll keep you in mind if I end up just removing it.

the non recirc type will vent the extra air outside of the engine. The problem is that the maf has already decided that air has entered the engine. This will create a short burst of a very rich condition. Sometimes this is enough to stall out the engine.

If you recirc it back into the engine it kind of keeps recycling itself. So the car shouldnt die. I am not sure I completly understand the theory since the air going back through is not really going to get into the engine anyway.

Like I said before there are people using big bell mouthed BOV's that make the loud air dump sound and they have no problems. So that one will work for now. If you end up not liking it then just give it to me and get a new one.