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Clarification on s13 conversion

Started by slow_88200sx · Apr 28, 2016 · 3postsSMF 2010–26

slow_88200sxApr 28, 2016, 2:46 am · #1

Ok sorry to bug you all again with this tired question but here I am.
I have found the suspension build guide thread and have decided to go with option 1

Option 1:
S12 Setup
-S13 balljoint
-S13 spindle
-S13 5-lug conversion hub /// -stock S13 4-lugs
-S13 Brake caliper hoses (Optional, but recommended as the S12 hoses stretch a little tight)
-S12 stock control arm/tension rods
-S13 tie rods, and 1995 ford escort tie rod ends /// S12 tie rods, A1 tie rod ends (http://shop.a1racing.com/dgt100.aspx)

I have the ball joints and a pair of full hubs including spindles, q45 calipers, and rotors coming in shortly.

As for the tie rod ends, is the A1 option a must or can I just make do with the s12 ones?

Now I have been searching about how these work to no avail.
http://club-s12.org/retro4/index.php?topic=33761.0

Don't know if I'm stupid or what but I can't figure out how these will help mount rear 240sx coilovers. Aside from maybe lower portion.

I haven't seen how the stock struts mount up on the s12 but since the IRS on these cars have a separate spring and strut setup I assume there is only a single bolt hole up top holding the strut in place.

Given that the overall length is close could I just drill the 2 extra holes needed for the rear 240 coilovers and call it a day?

Vehicle is an 88 xe hatch

slow_88200sxMay 1, 2016, 3:24 am · #2

Managed to get some dimensions of the 240SX Rear coilovers from a seller on eBay.
Since most all these are made by the same company, it shouldn't differ too much brand to brand.
posted image

I also took some quick measurements on my car of the strut and heres what I got
Lower mount where the bolt goes through is around 2.5' avail room.
If its smaller, the room can be easily made up through a shim or bushing.
Now strut height with the car sitting on the ground was 21" but I think there was something jammed up there since I managed to get another one of 23"
If 21" is true that would mean you have to bottom out the coilover to reach stock ride height.
Now for clearance going up into the body IIRC it was 4+"so it should be plenty for both the coilover spring and the top mounting plate to fit through without any hacking.
Either way I plan on double checking all this in the morning along with getting a look at the upper strut mount.
Will post pictures for anyone else interested

G-EJun 11, 2016, 7:32 pm · #3

Might be late to the party, but I have things in the works that could possibly give you better results for less overall cost... see pic below.

The kit would consist of an upper adapter that converts your strut tube into an adjustable s13 style mount, plus a negative camber RCA kit to balance steering axis and maximize camber adjustment. It would give you more wheel to strut clearance, and push the hub outwards around 1/2" depending on camber...

You can then install your camber plate rotated to be a caster plate, and fine tune the crossover point between the caster effect and dynamic camber. If you set it up right for drifting for example, you can have increased turn-in grip due to the way it carries the camber into the outside wheel, and even keep the inside turn wheel nearly flat to the ground for most control, without the jacking effect.

posted image

NC-RCA kits are available now, just waiting on more adapters for F31 sized tubes, which I believe is the same for you?