Madelyn - 87 Turbo XE

I'd just check the fuel pressure at the rail. May also replace the filter.

If it comes down to it, have a stock FP in my 87 XE I'm pulling out to replace w/ a 300LPH one if you need a replacement. Just got to get them swapped over.

pulled the pump, looks healthy, um going to soldier the connections on the top cause theyre a little loose. if the pump turns out to be bad, ill just retro fit an s13 fuel pump in, or see how similar the whole s13 sending unit is and maybe just use that.

Basic - my issue is even if you give me a free pump, id have to pay for shipping and it seems useless to wait that long. i do appreciate it though :)

update - time: 630am, hours worked on car: ~12. comments from my brain - go to sleep already lol

finally got her started, timing was way off, like 4 advance on the dizzy but she runs! but then misfires and dies once it starts to warm up, im thinking either bad gas or a possible boost leak.
definitely needs a tune up.
fuel pump is good now, rewired all of it since the wires in the sending unit werent all that healthy.
made a tank strap, still have to make the other one, it will be a bit trickier since i dont have the front mounting bracket
cleaned out the inside of it a bit,
undersprayed everything behind the rear wheels, unfortunately im finding a lot more ruse, where the rear passenger would sit the floor isnt really attached anymore and the where the subframe brackets mount to the car via 1/2inch bolts is pretty badly rotten and a tough spot to get to. but this will be my daily commuter/beater/have fun in car so it can all be over looked as long as its reliable.

i think ive figured out that the injectors are bad, but i need to know what ohms im looking for, but heres the theory...
i think theyre stuck at maybe ~50% duty cycle except for no.1, it seems to be functions better. no.2,3,4 dont affect the idle at all, plugs are new. timing is set to 25btdc cause that the only way she will run without backfiring. unplugging all spark plugs on the intake side one by one does affect idle though.
start the car up, runs but wants to die on cold start, so if i keep my foot on the accel i can keep it running until it starts to warm up, then it will idle at about 500 shaking really bad. it will idle as soon as the temp gauge starts to move.

i also recently misplaced my fsm while moving 2 months ago :( (im angry at myself about that)

so what i need to know is what ohms im looking for if i have a bad injector, using a volt meter i have absolutely no reading on my injectors at all, but i have 12 spares, 2 sets from a ca18et and 1 set from a ca20e, i know the ca20 injectors are to small to run on a turbo car so those are out of the question, but the other 2 sets all show between 2.3ohm - 2.6ohm.

also, how do i upload pics without posting them up onto another website?
Post Merge

Turns out all 4 injectors were clogged, replaced them with good working ones, she fired up but im still having issues with bogging and hard starts. car will still not idle on cold start.
no.2 and 3 cylinder are still dead
i thought maybe it was a maf so when I unplug the maf the revs jump up to 2k at any point and the car then " ghost idles" between 1900 and 2100 consistently reving up and down. if i try to rev it it will not want to rev and just starve cause the unregistered air going in. Could I have a bad maf?

im going to try the o2 sensor next.

so its pissing rain today, cant work on the car cause its outside :(

had a few questions though cause im having trouble some trouble figuring out part number for the maf.
i cant find a maf part# for my december 86 produced 87, and have access to ka24e mafs but the part# is different between a mk1 s12 and piggy s13.
im wondering if they are the same maf or if i can use the maf at all from a ka24e motor.

mass air flow - 22680-61A00 - 1984.01-1986.07 ca18et
mass air flow - 22680-xxxxx  - 1986.08-              ca18et
mass air flow - 22680-40F00 - 1988.07-1990.07 ka24e

can someone fill in the blanks please?

18f01 what I believe I read on stupid phone, altough that would be weird since yours is a 86.07 which should be a 36a00. Ill have to pull mine and see what it says. Time to break stuff lol.
Thanks for the pictures

Awaited update...
Shes finally got a name, Madelyn. Ive been driving her for about 3 days now and she runs good but im obviously having to do maintenance on it more than i expected. so far
clutch needs to be bled,
trans oil needs to be replaced,
rear diff oil needs to be replaced,
^(everythings kinda clunky)^
floors are in but need to be finished,
front left caliper needs a proper bleeder valve as the oem one is clogged and i wasnt able to bleed it fully.
interior still needs to be painted (awaiting floors)
need to trace tach signal wire as my rpms come and go as they please...
ignition time advance solenoid needs to be replaced,

intake mani gasket needs to be replaced (source of bad bogging and my hair pulling issues.)
     im thinking about just sourcing a ca20e intake and converting again. which leads me to a question, what all can i remove from the mani and still be able to smoothly daily drive the car, so far ive only come up with the EGR and BPT valves. Im considering throttle body bypass aswell but i will be driving it in the cold winters of canada so maybe not lol.

its still a work in progress
ill have more pictures up when my camera decides to work.

been busy working but ive come across a few things of concern,
it needs a new clutch master, slave and disk... :( still drivable but not for long and then theres the electrical issues im having..

so the cars running fine and all of the sudden my lights will flick once (go super bright for about half a second then back to normal) this engages what i call retard mode
in this "retard mode" the car idles lower
when i press the brake pedal, all lights will shut off for a split second and turn back on
my turn signals blink super quick as if i dont have bulbs but infact the actual bulb flashes quicker too
if i turn the car off all my lights turn off (headlights, markers, tails, interior)
when i turn the car back on
it takes longer (2-3 more cranks) for it to start up
it takes exactly 3 seconds for everything to come back on(interior lights, headlights, taillights, turn signals, clock etc)
my clock will also reset when it comes back.

ive also noticed i can force it to do this by turning the heater blower motor on and within a few minutes the car will start acting up.

ive looked at the alt plug which seems to be fine, the power wire from the starter and the alternator, and the 2 connecters on the power connector the battery, they seem to be ok. the ground seems to be alright but ill look it that further. i unfortunately havent been able to use a volt meter on the system yet cause its 1130pm and my neighboors are jerks but tomorrow more investigation will be done.

Bet you need a new alternator. Before mine died all my dash lights were flashing off and on

i think ive seemed to fix it, i just re crimped all the ground in my engine bay lmao, wasnt taking a risk of guessing which wire but atleast now i know theyre good for a while. but it seems to be one problem after another with this car, now shes eating oil like crazy, basically 3 litres of oil gone every 1000 to 1500 km.

i would like to replace the alternator with a bit more juicy one, i wonder is a ka alt would fit. its got 80amp instead our 70

so i got a hold of an intake manifold gasket, and a ca20 manifold. hopefully ill be swapping that over the weekend. the manifold came from a good healthy running motor will about 250km on it, i know what to do for the most part but i want to know i can leave all the ca20 components on the mani like that coolant sensor and the aav and egr or do i need to replace them with the ca18 ones.

its summer, so ive decided to use 15w40 for now, hopefully i can find a 5w40 somewhere for the winter months.

So few weeks ago im driving, and i smell fuel... turned out about horrible gas mileage, looking for leaks everywhere i could find anything except for the tank being wet but no actual drips. so i pulled the sending unit, the seal  was fine and i started pulling my hair thinking my tank was cracked. dropped the tank, filled it to the top, shook it like crazy and no leaks. i start wanting to kill myself. then i pulled the sending unit again to inspect it, turned out the be the rubber hose between the pump and SU had a pin hole rip, and was high enough to spray out of the not so fine seal and seep down the tank.

after i fixed it, took it for a drive, ran fine. until i went to gun it and went half as slow as normal... looked at the boost gauge, at wot i boost 1psi...
what can cause this to happen? is it possible for the wastegate to get stuck open but since our turbos are so small that it can still boost slightly? could a clogged cat (to much back pressure) affect the turbo from spooling full psi? ive noticed a slight bog, so ive bought plugs so see if that will help, timing is at about 16ish btdc.
it feels much more sluggish than normal, sometimes hesitates( coast/idle, press gas - rpm drop for a milisecond and then go up) i also noticed that my thermostat fail safe kicked in the today so it cools down right to the start of the gauge if i idle with the heat on for about 5 minutes. could this be part of my issue.

so for the longest the time ive had the timing set as far as it goes advanced cause it runs like crap otherwise, today i messed with the ecu idle screw and tps and set the timing a little retard just enough to where i can drive it, i can deff notice the lack of power and every so often itll will backfire through the intake (bad!), it hesitates huge around the 0psi mark or just before getting into boost. another thing i now noticed is that the more i retard my timing, the quicker i am boosting but the less power i have, where the timing is right now i can boost 5 psi in no load, pretty sure thats not normal.

the other day i noticed a loud ticking but the sound variates between the rpms so im not sure what it is. compression test shows 180psi, 150psi, 150psi, 165psi... i really wanted to save this motor but its not worth it, ive finally decided to throw a cheap ka24e into over the xmass break.

i wanted to know a few things for those who swapped a ka into a mk2 car.
how did you guys run the wiring harness? through the pass side or driver side like s12.
can i use the stock s12 intake coil and icm on a ka24e
can i use my s12 maf?
will i need retro fit motor mounts?
if i use a ka tranny will my speedo be off a little bit seeing as the gears are different.

ill do some research but most of it will be as i go through the swap.

So ka24e swap is done! Finally but what a pain in the ass. I managed to get a hemoroid somewhere half way through the swap so that made things extremely difficult. She runs, just had the exhaust welded up. I wasn't able to drive it yet, but my friend says that it idles high and fluctuates (vacuum leak) and it pops or back fires on idle sometimes,  I have two ecus for some reason no10 and no13 and I think 10 is auto which I have in the car right now. Can anyone who knows let me know if this is true. Timing is correct.

Another thing I need some help on is the tach wire, I have 2 Lt green wires on my white connector directly vertical to each other, with the connector slots on the top is it the bottom or top green wire.
My oilreassure gauge doesn't work, I'm assuming I have to swap the unit from the ca18
Same goes for my water temp.

I will have pics up when my pain in the but goes away

Thanks for any help guys