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Yeah, there is alot to work on now, just mean time I am just happy I got this far.
Little time I did troubleshoot it some, the maf isn't working or getting power to it, so I have something to work from. The injectors are all firing as they should as tested with a stethoscope I can hear the injectors firing in sequence as mentioned how to check via FSM, the pattern should be good as they where working fine before the ca20e blew.
I am done playing with the ca18e, and moving towards puitting the ca18det into this project now due to the amount of work I am pouring into the cadet just to get it working. Pistons in cyl 2, 3, and 4 was installed backwords thus crushing the oil squirters so I had to rip apart the whole block just to replace the squirters and switch the pistons around.
Post Merge
You didn't remember that I told you it had an MLS and adj cam gears lol it also has poncams....
I forgot hah!
no worries, it's pushing 2 years of ownership. This last year I have been preoccupied with the ca20 - vg30 projects.
all issues aside, I have the majority of the block back together, I found and ordered the missing pieces.
as of recently I want to restore the feature of a/c compressor and power steering with this, with the restore of the a/c I will be looking into converting to the R134 hopefully it is possible.
I did the 134a retrofit in my car when I had the CA18ET. All you need to do is replace all the O rings in the system and get a new receiver dryer and your golden. Although you might need new lines made up. Old systems love 134a. Mine blew a cold 45 degrees!
Nice, since I have most of the system already pulled already and stored away with a thought of doing so later on this would be agreat time to get the 0 rings replaced and fitted up with a retrokit I seen.
this project kinda got stuck.. at the moment... I still need to pull the ca18e out and prep the install.
But I do know why this was stumbling the fuel filter was extremely dirty and fuel was not what it seems as if someone dumped black stuff in my gas tank? as the color was extremely dark and very watery not like how fuel is / feels and smell is not as strong as normal gas. I guess I got a patch of bad gas.
Well, before pulling the ca18e I decided to give it another run about and I had Waylon assist me as he wanted to and turns out one of the injectors is technically blown and proven so in the run down diagnostics.
So with the new fuel filter replaced, injector cleaner stuff in the tank to help with the fuel and now replacing the final injector all I have to do from there is clean up the engine bay and button her up and move forward. Might make a quick dash to Cars and Coffee this weekend since I heard there will be a special guest with the FuguZ, irony of it all 2 turbo motors running no turbos.
There is some block inconsistency with the cadet replacement that is holding me back before the install. The main concerns is the freeze plugs and possible rust damage inside the block that might have oblong the freeze plug holes on the block, there is a few deleted things that shouldn't fully be deleted.
Whats wrong with the det?
freeze plugs might need to be bored out and even the stock ones 3 out of the 4 on the left side of the block (Driver side) will leak.
Really?! I wonder how that happened I never had a coolant leak...
Not sure, when I tipped it on the side it would leak and there is rust showing leaking below the plugs.
It's cool though, easy fixable.
Wait I'm lost, so your moving forward with the det in the blue car?
Dropped the fluids in the ca18e, unplugged the harness, while that is draining I have been cleaning up the garage and putting the ca18det back together getting ready to drop in after I clean up the engine bay.
the cadet is getting closer to drop in.
Little before and after, with my garage cleaning and stuffing the cadet inside this blue car.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-25%2014.41.02.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-25%2014.45.10.jpg)
Cleaning up the garage means I need to put the cadet back together and stuff it inside the s12.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-25%2018.11.30.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-25%2019.58.25.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-25%2019.59.11.jpg)
That is the update from last weekend garage cleaning. I like to plan and prep before I do anything drastic right away, but my goal is to pull the ca18e out by this weekend and at least put the cadet inside.
Another thing I am processing if I want to sell the nistune as a whole and go MS or just mimic the setup from the black car. Just needs to be alot cleaner, which reminds me I need to buy tags / label maker to start labeling wires.
If you get rid of the nistune let me know I would love to take it off your hands I'm going to need to be able to tune mine when I get the harness from wiring specialties
Well, Waylon kinda got me a little inspired to get this running as is. So as for now I decided to wait till I can get things solid with the ca18det and go MS when I know the system is back at 100% on a working platform that I know worked before. Plus I need to rebound my finances right now, and stop impulse buying car parts. and I also learned my lesson with the sev6 with the carb swap before getting the system at 100% first.
So I learned today is that the ca18e is running the ca20e timing belt, I forgot which one was bigger and smaller so I had to hit someone up who also knows their ca's and ca18e is smaller and I had that ca18et belt placed aside from another block so I was able to verify after all the size. So my timing issue was dead on with this, and lucky that my valves are not bent, as it is now 8pm and I got to work at 5am I will continue tomorrow after work to get it back together and fire it up.
nice work!
Here are some images of my work yesterday.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2018.16.05.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2018.16.14.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2018.18.33.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2018.18.51.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2018.19.02.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2018.27.07.jpg)
Left is the belt removed from the ca18e and the right is a timing belt for a ca18et.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2018.44.25.jpg)
Installed
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2019.25.57.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2019.34.44.jpg)
Notice the difference between the tbelt covers one is for the CA20(Right) and the other is CA18(Left)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2016/2016-06-30%2019.44.01.jpg)
ones cleaner?
One is longer
oh ok
learned something new - thought belts/covers would be the same
Yeah, I learned recently the blocks between the ca18 and ca20 are different as per longer.
yet you can swap heads??
Heads are the same, blocks are different.
IE: https://youtu.be/6uAmMfsfeAA
So I got it running,
Here is the issue that is still getting troubleshot down the road.
When my car would have an issue and it would not turn off the fuel injectors it would somehow flood the engine with fuel and I would get a call stating there is alot of fuel under my car.
IE:
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/serenity/2015-10-12%2008.32.13.jpg)
So I have to remember that it takes for ever to get the initial startup.
Timing was dead on Monday, checked over and over.
So then this happened today, since I have time.
https://youtu.be/Zkq9iSeSpzQ
Timing isn't jumping around like it was before, and it kinda has the ca20e run to it with slight miss fire I just have to time it with the light now and fix the timing belt cover.
I found a vacuum leak because I forgot to fix one of my vacuum leads, but it is here after 30 minutes of cranking of the initial start up, it now works. and if I turn it off and on it works like it should now till I do another problem with the ignition.
as for the on going problem I had for the longest time. I opened up the plastic cover where my steering colum goes and with the slightest tough the ignition switch fell apart. I had to pull one from one of the other s12's but doing so it seems to have resolved my ignition switch issue.
With that being said, she fires up with no issues I can now troubleshoot the problem with #3 cyl injector is not working, there is no pulse while the wiring is solid I need to verify to make sure it is working. Possible bad injector will have to label this one after testing.
I know I have a few bad injectors around this might be one of them.
Well, looks like I had to revisited this project due to a friend of mine who is coming back to vegas in needs a helping hand with a few things so I will need a back up daily again.
So I decided today to start going around the block to see if there was anything I left out and turns out there is oil seeping from the head and it's a bit thick leak but not enough to make it to the ground.
Headbolts are torqued to spec so I assume at this point that they are used bolts at one time? or possible the head is warped?
Shitty...
Still a mystery, I am kinda burned out troubleshooting the motor at the moment.
Yeah I bet...
A14 12point Nissan 202-4203 ARP head studs ordered.
New headgasket and plugs + wires coming since the NGK decided to break apart.
As I had a headgasket breach and noticed on the intake side where the head meets the block was seeping oil out a few points and same issue at one point on the exhaust side.
for the life of me I can't seem to get a ca sohc motor running from all the blocks donated to me so I am in the middle of troubleshooting the point of failure and I think this might be head bolt relation.
WHen I pulled the ca20e I used the head bolts there I thought about attempting to reuse it but it might end up where the ca20 is located now a door stop with a cracked cyl walls.
Going to rewire the fuel pump this time around to also eliminate my fuel sending unit glitching out.
A14 Studs worked perfectly,
I am now just waiting for my headgasket that should have been here 12/2 Might not see it until 12/7
I still need to rewire the fuel pump.
It's alive, my timing theory is corrected.
https://youtu.be/7c1ZRnEIjSQ
I had to swap the coils around after this video to get it to actually rev up higher. But it's solid now..
What does the fuel pump rewire accomplish again? Waylon told me but I forgot...
sideways_s12 on 08:48:24 PM / 23-Dec-16What does the fuel pump rewire accomplish again? Waylon told me but I forgot...
Ahh ok kinda like my black car where the pump stayed on after I cut the car off.....
Yeah, easy stuff.
I'll start tuning it this next week, been working 14 hours on some last minute projects at work.
Nice! hey did you by chance take the walbro from the black car? just curious on what I have to replace when I get buy it back...
Walbro is still there, Only thing I have removed is the engine and transmission, not using that transmission though.
what plans are in store for her?
supercharged vh overfenders s13 front suspension waylons camber fix and r200 rear hopefully a obx kit...Haven't figured out rims yet...
Post Merge
kewl, I got the z32 turbo trans if you want that also it was for the same idea swap for the black car, it was a future project idea.
oh definitely! that way i don't have to search for one...
When I get a moment, I will be switching from the V belt system back to the W belt, on the side note the W style Alt is failing just a reminder for myself and I do not have a replacement at this moment in time.
When complete I can finally time it correctly.
Well after all of that I am pulling the bartco motor and seeing if there is something I can do either with the other ca18 or bring the ca20 down to the machine shop to fix the cracks.
The bartco motor wont start even at the normal TDC, it needs to be set at +60, and even then I can't time it. (technically 1/4 off of TDC)
Well more comparing between motors, I have pulled the ca18e out and did a rotation test and the rods seem to have 2" less travel in the ca18et than the ca20e I should have taken pictures with the measurements. but I am not sure if the ca18 / ca20 rods are that different, crank, and / or pistons I am a bit confused at this point but this is a mysterious ca18et motor from the start.
Back to going all out on the ca20e block I've put the head but installed the cam / cam gear for the ca20 on this ca18e head as they are the same heads all around. In theory this should be like a fully rebuilt system since it is in theory rebuilt.
CA20 block I thought I had blown up from the head gasket failure but that was a mistake on my part.
2/3 of the motor has been assembled and installed adding in the accessories and should be able to fire it up either tonight or tomorrow night after work.
and she is now working.
https://youtu.be/9yNcI2WbJZg