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SchizophrenicMC on 09:20:49 PM / 12-Oct-15KA time!
This is why I hate locating a KA, all KA's i got in response are "blown" head gaskets and rod knocks pulled and left sitting for a long time and drift taxed to all hell just for 1 block, so far the lowest someone will go just for the block and accessories such as head intake was 700..
KAs have jumped up in price recently. If I see another KA sell for $700+ I'm buying some CADETs.
Why not rebuild the Ka you got from me?
I still am still will take time, in the mean time If I could score a block between now and by next week to make the swap happen asap. But looks like I will most likely have to continue with the rebuild.
Ahh Gotcha!
I think the fuel pump is on it's malfunctioning last leg, I am thinking of ordering the 190lph walbro in its place and will be useful for the ka24de upgrade. I believe the 190 should be enough for the ca20 and not to be overwhelming?
I doubt you'll overrun your FPR on 190lph.
Yeah that is what I have been researching.
Post Merge
So you finally found the problem? this should kill that problem?
Have yet to install the walbro, since the sev6 is serving me well. I am holding on to it for now, if at most I might install that int he Red Hatch when I get most of the parts swapped over from the parts car in the next couple of weeks after I clean out my garage and get my brothers swazi rims on it just to move it in the garage.
But yeah, so far so good, I have been racing it around causing alot of heavy load on the system including dropping hard bass with my sub and all seems to be good right now.
So much for the ca20e rocking it hardcore... it blew up today, replacing it temp with a ca18et motor minus the turbo to rock it as a ca20e.
When I am done with this I will focus on the rebuild of the ka24de.
Well, That's shitty... I still feel like any ca20e that has been taken apart after it has been put back together it decides to shit itself...
I think it has more to do with the 4th cyl as it was repaired twice already with the exhaust stud.
It lasted all year tho, I am glade it happened near my moms house and not at work, lol.
lol yeah that's good
Well I have a lead for a solid bottom end KA24de.
I have a few things I can do at this point,
#1 I can replace the head with another. Unsure on the damage yet just know all my coolant and oil is dumping into the exhaust and I lost 2 cyl
#2 I can drop a complete tired ca18e minus t and run it as a ca20e
#3 Focus on the ka24de rebuild with the solid bottom.
I'd focus on the ka but that's just me... Makes the most sense to me...
I guess right now it all depends on my sev6 right now, if it can finally stop acting like an overheating lil bitch... I will focus on the ka swap, if not I might need to focus on getting it back up and running for now as something went wrong with the rebuild process on the vg30e
Ultimate goal is to go fully KA24de swap with working A/C as a full on restomod s12.
well you could easily swap heads from the 18et but honestly your going to end up going KA you might as well get started and just do it...
Attempted to throw on a ca18et head and turns out I cannot for the life of me to get anything higher then 100psi on compression with all 4 cyl. So yeah I think as of now I might just start prepping the ka swap.
Hey, that's exactly what mine was doing. 100 psi across the board.
Exhaust valve on cyl 3 was stuck completely closed.
Is there a way to tell with the head being on still?
I didn't actually make this discovery, but I imagine popping the valve cover off would get you there.
well if it is being consistent, there is a possibility when I installed the head I am on the down stroke of the #1 piston thinking it was TDC.. I am going to verify that later when I am letting my sev6 warm up.
But if that is the case it would explain why all 4 cyl is pulling 90 dry and 100-105 psi wet, when I had the vavle cover off all 8 springs when u p and down and when I had the head off I rotated the cam gear to verify if all valves opened and closed. I didn't verify if they are leaking in any way with some brake kleen so I got a few things to verify I need to get an air compressor to perform a leak down test.
Went a head and order some fresh head bolts for the mean time as I am car-less right now. Seems this issue is head bolts related, low pressure due to the bolts not grabbing.
Well, I just got a ka24e long block with ecu and wiring harness, supposed to be a good engine that turns freely. I will most likely have to do a leak down test but if it turns out good. I guess it will be the swap for now.
Wonderingraven on 10:58:09 PM / 10-Dec-15Well, I just got a ka24e long block with ecu and wiring harness, supposed to be a good engine that turns freely. I will most likely have to do a leak down test but if it turns out good. I guess it will be the swap for now.
Yeah hopefully,
and after 2 weeks, head bolts are in. seems to be the NORM 2 weeks for the head bolts, I guess they have to get them from different warehouses.
This is where I need a minion.
new head bolts are in but after installing turns out I am still getting 90psi on all 4 cyl and that is not enough to fire. At this point I am at a standstill on this ca20, so I went back and look at the evidence I took after I pulled the head gasket and noticed nice chunks along the cyl walls are damaged.
KA time!!!
KA ALL DAY!
Yep, dude that has the sohc ka, is being hella lame right now, keeps offering to say come get it gives me an ridicules 5 minute time window to get across town to get it. the dohc, I got my part # list to order. All the bearings will cost me 150, another 75 for the gaskets then start putting it together.
Mean time I have been thinking of tossing bartco motor in as a non turbo. I am just extremely burned out right now to do so.
Pulling the CA20 out this weekend and deciding if I am going to temp to use the bartco block.
Nice! Just s you know theres nothing bartco about that motor I just called i that because I was running the bartco accessories on it...
Yeah, but it has a nice ring to it.
Well, installed the bartco motor and I am having no success either on the install.
Some odd reason I cannot get it to fire, compression turns out good, I am getting on wet 190psi consistently on all 4 cyl. Alot better then the wet 110 I was getting with the ca20e.
I am getting spark, also getting fuel pressure, all seems perfect. I have replaced the dizzy with my red 86 turbo hatch and still no go.
Plugs are clean and good, but I am getting alot of fuel going in due to the non-fire....
It almost seems like I am not putting the dizzy in the correct position...
Did you maybe get yourself 180° off of top dead center?
nope, I tried that as well.
As far as I recall the inner points to E1, on compression stroke, But might be wrong due the FSM shows different and lack of guidance.
So I need to verify the marks, after that I am going to have to pull out the multimeter and start searching and checking the ecu.
I am also giving myself this week to get it fired up if I cannot fire this one up there is something wrong and I need to find a reliable source of transportation that I can resell later on with out loosing $$ doing so, when I get this car operational with either an CA18det or KA24DE....
Make sure your distributor ground wire is snug. I forgot it on the pathfinder the other day and it wouldn't start. Everything sounded right except it wouldn't fire. Pucker factor was very high until I found my derp. One facepalm later I was back in business.
Yeah that is secure, when I move the dizzy it will almost fire and start....
Have you killed the gremlin yet? The green goo left behind can be sort of messy but smashing them to pulp helps a great many problems.
When I find the gremlin, I will smash it with my mighty hammer.
Finally!
Well reviving this old thread as the Bartco motor I have was able to start up after swapping out the distributor with an 88 ca20e i found at the junkyard.
timing belt is back on and slowing putting it back together will restab the dizzy and hopefully get it started.
So, I have done this so far.
It fires up, it sounds like it is running.
https://youtu.be/cpR3TokPBTk
Has a loopy cam feel, but more like a limp mode at the moment, with the maf connected or disconnected it actually makes no different so I suspect the maf is dead.
But progress has been made and moving forward.
If I can score a T25 I might rewire it for a ca18et all at stock though, this bartco motor seems to be in running condition.
Man, you do work. That lopey shake almost looks like what I had when one injector wasn't firing. Hope it's the MAF, but food for thought.
+1 for dead injector causing lopey shake. Just got done dealing with that myself.