Ok well got my motor all put together runs and drives but idles a little off and it cuts out a little in 2nd and 3rd, also it smells like its running rich spark plugs are black and smell bad of gas and are wet. with that said i dont know wait or where the hose goes to off my fuel rail, from what i read it hooks up to a fuel pressure valve/ regulator witch i dont have (tried pluging it into the intake but still same prob i think)
Prob number 2 after i time it and i rev it up shouldent it advance a little or retard, it just stays on 15 BTDC no matter if its at 2k or 5k, since i have no vacuum advance i have no clue!
thanks in advance, this car is being a pain in the ass!
Holy crap i feel like I shoul have never keeped my motor
I blew my motor in the summer. Rebuilt it Inc pistons,berrings,head ect. Got a t25g,and a topmount and some other moods and now I feel like I spent 3month picking out a name for a dyeing horse...car seems to run super nice (haven't insured it since the build...) but I just hear so much about how crapy the ca18et's are...and how I should gave just det swapped...anyone drifting/racing an et and have a positive expirience? Are alot of my parts interchangable with the det (pistons, turbo...) maybe I should get a blown det and rebuild it...?
Be original. Keep the et. Who wants to follow the crowd anyway lol
I like stuff that works. Not stuffz thats original. But idk, my et blowd up, ka tymeee.
mannytheman on 04:54:53 AM / 11-Nov-10I blew my motor in the summer. Rebuilt it Inc pistons,berrings,head ect. Got a t25g,and a topmount and some other moods and now I feel like I spent 3month picking out a name for a dyeing horse...car seems to run super nice (haven't insured it since the build...) but I just hear so much about how crapy the ca18et's are...and how I should gave just det swapped...anyone drifting/racing an et and have a positive expirience?
Don't get me wrong, I don't like the ca18et much but it doesn't mean they can't work. I think a lot of ca18et's wear out internally pretty quickly because they came from the factory non intercooled and with a tiny t2 turbo. In hotter enviroments intake temps had the potential to get very high, especially under hard prolonged loads like going up mountain passes. That, coupled with head flow that is mediocre at best and a weak bottom end, doesn't help the ca18et look attractive for performance compared to the more modern Nissan 4 cylinders like the ka24, sr20 and dohc ca18.
That said, you have already rebuilt your ca18et so your bottom end is fresh and not overly worn out. You already have a t25g to replace the stock t2 and an intercooler which will be much nicer to your engine intake temps (and therefore engine longevity) than that overworked non intercooled t2. As long as you get a good tune I don't see any reason why it shouldn't be pretty reliable for you in the near future at the minimum. Just be careful when turning up the boost because the stock rods have been reported to bend as low as 160-180whp.
The SOHC CA engines are literally one of the WORST engines Nissan ever produced...along with the A series, they are the only engines I would literally just scrap immediately. You'd be much better off turboing an old Z series 4 banger...(older tech is better? go figure!)
I guess I'm biased in this opinion but I say stick with the et since its already rebuilt I have a semi built ca18et and it was loads of till I had an electrical issue that caused it not to rev past 2000rpm (no its not the maf) and I have also raced my ca at many street races with the only problem being the head bolts stretching because I didnt replace them with new ones but other than that it held up fine. I also ran 15 psi out of the t25g with no issue (not saying you should do that but it was fine for me) I beat the living shit out of the motor on purpose to see when it would pop I have only messed up 2 motors one was too lean and burned the piston and the other I overrevved, all that did was drop a valve into the cylinder and put a valve size hole in the piston lol but again it was from overrevving I love the little single cam and it will do work when you want it too my only advice is to not overrev it and make sure you get a good tune and you will be fine. I also have a ca18det powered s12 and like redneck said head flow is a major fault of the single cam I def feel the difference between the 2 for sure.
P.s. when raggin on the ca while driving it was untuned also smashed on some sr20 powered 240's and a few z32's non turbo and countless swapped hondas in a 86 hatch with options a sunroof and full interior with about 50lbs of tools in the rear plus me (280lbs) and that was on the tired 20+ year long block with bolt ons.
Post Merge: 12:37:29 AM / 12-Nov-10
Had a race against iggy in his cadet and it was really close he was on 12psi from the t25g and I was 8psi from the evo3 big 16g and his is a stripped out hatch! I will post the vid if you like.
That would cool thanks Smiley
I'm keeping the et till it blows and staring my serch for an fj20et.
I can prob get a few seasonal/years out of it and by then I'll have found an fj (probably not), but that's the plan.
Thanks for the feedback.
Post that vid if you still have it. Love s12 videos Smiley
you have rebuilt the 18et....so, just drop coin on suspension and then start saving up for another engine. FJ is amazing...but hard to find and can be expensive to maintain. If you daily your s12 i wouldnt recommend the fj.
Here you go sir the red car is mine with the single cam and the silver is iggy with the dual
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBuWuF4s86s" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBuWuF4s86s</a>
wow thanks guys!
whoa what? are you talking about the vacuum line of the FPR? yes, that should go to a vacuum source .
the main fuel line should go back to the tank, the other one is feed from the fuel filter from the tank.
regulator is on the end of the line, right before the return.
but, if you distributor isnt advanceing you got some issues. is it vacuum advanced or electronically advanced? i cant remember what a 18et has...
The FPR (Fuel pressure regulator) is a little round thing that is bolted to the end of your fuel rail... one line should go back to a fuel line that goes back to the tank... if it is not there, you should have a big puddle of fuel under your car... except if their is a blocking plate in place of the FPR, but I really don't know why anybody would do that...
The other line plugged on the other side of the FPR is a little smaller, if you suck through it, you'll hear a clicking sound (it's the diaphragm inside moving to allow more or less fuel to bypass and go back to the tank.... this line should be plugged somewhere in the intake so their is some vaccum and when you step on the gas (more load on engine) the vaccum increase and the FPR allow less fuel to bypass in order to increase the fuel pressure...
As for the dist, I have no idea if it's electronic or vaccum advance.. but what ever it is, freereving it could prevent the advance to work.. since their is no load on the engine... but that is pure speculation... i'll wait for someone who has hands on experience on the et (I have never worked on one)
Post Merge: 01:50:57 PM / 14-Nov-10
Just so you know what to look for, Last time I have owned an s12 was over 6 years ago... but this is the FPR on an AE111 ITB setup... pretty much the same...

The line that is going nowhere should be plugged into a vaccum source (you intake) on top of the image, you can see a bigger hose with a metal collar that goes away behind a plastic plug (the TPS) this is the fuel return line... that should go back into a line close to where the fuel filter in connected... one is the fuel feed the other is the return.... Hope this help... notice where the vaccum line is connected on the smaller side of the "ring"... and the fuel return on the bigger side
Pigpen on 01:42:26 AM / 14-Nov-10wow thanks guys!
2 threads now where you are having a condescending attitude. Not a good way to start.