i got a soild axle rear end 1984 200sx and i replaced both the shaft bearing in the axle and put everything back together and now it knocks and it didnt make this noise before so im total lost and have no idea what could be cause of it can anyone help.
Browse › Tech ›Drivetrain
solid axle rear end knocking noise
The bearings aren't in the axle, they're pressed onto the axle shafts. Did you replace them and get them pressed onto the axles?
i got both axle shaft bearings pressed in.i took the axle apart again to let my buddy look at it and he said it was my pinion so im looking for a place that has and ring and pinion set but im having no luck at all and id hate to go at the nissan dealership and buy a set cuz they are expensive half the time. do u know anyone who would sell a set.
Always assume it was something you did last when a new problem pops up.
There is a spacer that has a beveled edge that must be toward the wheel. Then the bearing and then the bearing collar.
its the pinion we put some anti-seize on the ring gear and spun the pinion around to c where it is hitting and its hitting the upper part of the ring gear its not fully hitting the ring gear and my pinion gots alot of play in it..so im gonna order 2xdiff bearings pinion bear pinion seal and a ring & pinion set once i get some money going and im proabably gonna let one of my friends rebuild it cuz ive never rebuild a pumpking before ill just watch and learn lol thanks for helping me brainstorm problems. ill be doing a rb20det swap into my car here in a few months if u guys want pics etc..
when your diff/pinion starts clunking, just remove it and source a new diff..
if you cant figure out the simplicity of a sra issue id totally reconsider a rb20 swap lol
ive never worked on a rear end before this is y im asking for help i know how to weld cut fab stuff and work on engines so im pretty sure i can do a simple rb20det swap into my car
Maybe but he is right in that sourcing a new H190 might be easier.
sorry. i didnt realize rb20 swaps were simple, my bad
David B on 05:21:51 PM / 27-Sep-10sorry. i didnt realize rb20 swaps were simple, my bad
Now that I know they are I think I might do one before noon.
i called up the dealership they wanted 713dollar for a ring a pinion set.im just goin to buy the bears and thrust washers hopefully it solves my problem.. im goin to use my s12 for a daily driver and buy a 240sx for a project i dont wann be going threw rear problems wit a rb20det swap into my s12 will cost me alot of money Sad
David B is so right. Replace is easier than changing the seals and bearings. The '84 200sx non turbo H-190s were 3.70 ratio. '82-'83 S-110 automatics had the 3.70 ratio. 720 trucks had them as well with ratios 3.364, 3.545, 3.889, 4.11, 4.375 even 4.625. Though many 2wd early '80s have the same side gears, you may have to swap your side gears in so your axles spline will fit. This requires a partial dismantling of the diff but less than what you plan for changing the bearings. Wrecker diff... $50 Take your side gears out and have a shop swap them in or, carefully scribe them so they can be re assembled in the same positions so gear lash is preserved, and change them yourself. You can also change the ratio. '82 720 2wd automatics had 4.11s for example.
alrite ill try this out thanks for the tip
youre better off going with something beefier than an h190 if youre putting in an rb20
wut axle is interchangeable wit the h190 solid axle and were would i locate a axle sad face
if im not mistaken....isnt the h190 between the R180 and R200 in strength? I thought the # was how many teeth were on the gear. If its at least as strong as an R180 it would be fine for everything except launching with drag radials on.
Also, as for a swap, there is really nothing you can swap in directly at ALL besides another H190. You'd have to get a solid rear end from another vehicle and fabricate *everything* to get it to work.
indeed, in the SRA info thread the maximum torque is rated at 285ft lbs, but david b has already broke one with less torque than that. a mkII supra rear end would be a good choice, just will need to plasma off the mounts on both and weld the mounts on the new supra rear
drake_fist on 03:53:31 PM / 05-Oct-10wut axle is interchangeable wit the h190 solid axle and were would i locate a axle sad face
Assume this is for the early S12? Only another S-12 would fit for sure. The '82-'83 S110 as I said earlier also uses the H-190 but weather it directly replaces the S-12 is unknown.
The H-190 is plenty strong for an RB20.
David B may have broken one but I bet it took some doing to do so. The H-190 didn't come with an LSD option and no rear end will stand up to constant one tire burn out abuse and neglectful lack of oil changes. Who knows what this diff went through since it was new?
what about at 18psi on a 60 trim... with slicks
It also needs to be mentioned that david's first diff wasn't really welded the best. Even he admitted it was flaky.
My welded guy is stout as hell. I can't forsee it breaking before 300 hp or ft/lbs...
Slicks breaks things though. I don't plan on ever having those on her
i am guessing just shy of 400 or so ponies
im gonna have it as a daily driver cant weld diff it snows here sad face.
2wd Hardbodies also used the H190, just check the tag in the driver's side door area for axle code "HF35".
@Xano, the number is actually the size of the ring gear in mm, so an H190 has a 190mm diameter gear and so forth.
thanks, i knew it was that or what i said
StephenG on 05:46:42 AM / 08-Oct-102wd Hardbodies also used the H190, just check the tag in the driver's side door area for axle code "HF35".
2 wd with Z24i, KA24E or KA24DE 4 cyl. engines only. The tag is under the pass side hood hinge on the inner fender with axle info stamped in the lower right corner. The first letter H is for the solid axle housing with removable third member, C would be for the Salisbury type with integral gears used on the 4 cyl. 4X4s. The second letter F is I think for the ring diameter 190, G would be for the 233 used only on VG30 equipped trucks. The 35 is the ratio or 3.545, a 37 is 3.70, 41 would be 4.11 and so on.
datzenmike on 03:40:55 AM / 10-Oct-10 G would be for the 233 used only on VG30 equipped trucks. The 35 is the ratio or 3.545, a 37 is 3.70, 41 would be 4.11 and so on.Very informative. The 233 is on some 4cyl trucks though, 96-97 hardbodies and many newer frontiers with the HG46 code. I plan on swapping my H190 for a H233B to get better highway miles Smiley
The H-233 was only in 4 cyl. 4X4 trucks though I believe and not the 2wd. The H233 usually comes in 4.375 or 4.625 ratios so unless your H-190 ratio is above this I doubt your mileage will increase. The H-133 is massively heavy and larger than a Ford 9". Both these ratios are available with factory LSD though.
hummm what do they come out of
H-233 came in the '86.5 and up D-21 Hardbodys (leaf spring) with VG motor and '87 and up WD-21 Pathfinders (5 link coil springs) with VG motors. You can check for the proper diff by looking at the engine compartment tag under the pass hood hinge on inner fender. Look in the lower right corner for HG43 or HG46. This is from a Pathfinder with 4.625 LSD.
The tag doesn't list the option so look on the back of the differential bum for an orange sticker like these.

I'd like to start off by saying i used the search key and it was no help.
so i have never seen an s12 manual drive shaft so i was wondering if the auto and manual drive shaft have the same rear half or if they are indeed different.
i know in the s13 the drive shafts are different , i have a feeling they are different in the s12 but i need some sort of confirmation before i go ahead and start my ka24de and 5spd swap.
pictures of the drive shafts if possible would be nice to for future reference.
Thanks.
only the front halves are different lengths in the S12.
And when doing a KA swap, you use the front half of the S13 driveshaft mated to your S12 rear half.
But, when swapping from an auto to a manual in an S12, OR an S13. It's a very good practice to get the whole driveshaft. Because that way it can be marked as to how it came off, and you know it will be balanced then. When doing a KA swap, you can only pray.
I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think nissan balances each part, not the shaft as a whole. As nobody with a KA/SR/CA swap has said their driveshaft is out of balance
thanks for the help.
im in the break down of the pumpkin waiting for 1 pinion bearing and i had to order my load bearing shim out of state from the phone which they sent me the wrong shims they dont even fit my car period so today im picking up my drum shoes,drums,brake cyclinders for both sides then im going to hit up the dealer ship and by a pinion nut cuz i fuckd it all up trying to get the main pinion bearing out and have nissan locate a dealer ship that will have shims, and i paint my axle flat black and clear coated it since there was rust growing ..just though id up to date ppl so if they run into this shit they will know. the waiting game has began lololol.
If we swapped all the components from a 4x4 hardbody truck into an s12 and with alot of fab work anyone think potentially someone could make a AWD rally beast out of a notch or hatch?
well, first off, it wouldn't be awd, it would be 4wd
rage on 12:09:52 AM / 06-Oct-10indeed, in the SRA info thread the maximum torque is rated at 285ft lbs, but david b has already broke one with less torque than that. a mkII supra rear end would be a good choice, just will need to plasma off the mounts on both and weld the mounts on the new supra rear
my differential wasnt welded enough, gears were just welded together, i replaced my diff with a 1982 200sx differential
BUT, you have to swap pinion flanges.
BUT, you have to swap pinion flanges.
BUT, you have to swap pinion flanges.
BUT, you have to swap pinion flanges.
the driveshaft will be too short or something if you dont, use your old h190 from your s12. bolts right up.
i even was able to use the s110 diff with the stock s12 axles. its like the same stuff. just ones drum ones disk
im using s110 axles to have the disk brakes too and this time had it filled with chromoly
i also blew my first diff, on a drag strip, with 225 r15's and a stage 4 comp clutch with a sr. axles were all good. just the diff ate itself internally.
Post Merge: [time]11:28:01 PM / 23-Oct-10 [/time]
drake_fist on 05:29:23 AM / 08-Oct-10im gonna have it as a daily driver cant weld diff it snows here sad face.
a welded diff in the snow is far better then a open diff in the snow.. open diffs get you stuck
Post Merge: 11:28:39 PM / 23-Oct-10
rage on 10:20:45 PM / 23-Oct-10well, first off, it wouldn't be awd, it would be 4wd
Maxpow on 05:30:40 PM / 23-Oct-10If we swapped all the components from a 4x4 hardbody truck into an s12 and with alot of fab work anyone think potentially someone could make a AWD rally beast out of a notch or hatch?
a 4x4 s12 would be too much work and a waste of time
isnt someone already doing an RB awd s12 with r32 parts?
I understand its too much work. And I understand its a waste of time. But there are plenty of people who do both of those things already.
it sounds like alot of work.
David B on 11:24:01 PM / 23-Oct-10
Post Merge: [time]11:28:01 PM / 23-Oct-10 [/time]
a welded diff in the snow is far better then a open diff in the snow.. open diffs get you stuck
While a welded diff drives both tires it's not without disadvantages either. It's only best when accelerating forwards in a straight line. A welded diff is subject to moderate to severe oversteer when accelerating on a sloped surface or curve, even on dry pavement, and understeer when cornering on dry and sudden oversteer on icy curves. On icy, snow or poor traction roads other than going straight an open diff can be better and an LSD diff best.
Deezus on 12:09:34 AM / 24-Oct-10isnt someone already doing an RB awd s12 with r32 parts?Yea some guy from europe...i think his name is vovka or somethin like that...he has a garage thread.
Can I use the ca18det flywheel on a ca20?
Search is pretty irrelevent
I don't think so... ca20 is 6 bolts, but I do believe that the ca18det is 8 bolts... I'll just confirm this in a sec
Post Merge: 03:34:18 AM / 14-Nov-10
Confirmed... you cannot ca18det is 8 bolts like the sr20det (I think both flywheel interchange) and ca20e is 6 bolt (like the ka24e/de but I really don't think they interchange)
Ok thank you
can i use the bolts that hold the 2 shafts together on an automatic driveshaft on a manual driveshaft for my s12???
Im not sure if its correct but I did use the same bolts where the two halves mated together. Im doing a vg swap which required me to use the mouting plate, between f/r shaft, from the front half of the ca onto the vg front, the place where it mates to the rear half. Make any sense? haha, pictures would help on this one. Basically the I had to use the old one because the bolt pattern from the vg shaft wasnt the same as the orignal. So, swapped it to the original and its golden.
im swapping my vg auto tranny to a vg manual.and i have the full manual shaft just no bolts holding it together.i was just figuring the auto driveshafts bolts would work
yes usiing the bolts is fine i used my auto bolts on my 5spd front half no problem
thanks alot bro.also im waiting for my clutch pedal to come in along with the clutch line and bracket.any other parts i would need.could u give me a list of wats needed????
280zx front brake line. To connect the hardling to slave cyl because u will be not using the dampner box that's on mt cars. Do u have a cross member solution and the platethat goes between the motor and trans itself u will need the mt variant