Welding The Diff... And Done.

Started by hotdoghogie · Sep 1, 2010 · 12postsSMF 2010–26

hotdoghogieSep 1, 2010, 9:04 pm · #1

Does anyone know if it is possible to weld a H190 diff without dissasembling the whole thing? Im going to do the plate method to maybe gain some clearence if possible, I prob don't have a clue wtf im talking about. Let me know guys.

seishukuSep 1, 2010, 9:51 pm · #2

You don't need a lot of weld to hold a lot of power, these are the diffs that I've welded and are plenty strong to hold just about anything you can throw at it:

R180 that's in my S12 right now:
posted image

S13 R200:

I wouldn't recommend welding with the diff still in the carrier, but it is possible. If MIG welding, make sure to apply an anti-splatter spray to just about everything, if TIG welding (like I did), just make sure everything is VERY clean.

I normally remove everything so it's just the diff with the spider gears and nothing else.

JaySep 1, 2010, 9:55 pm · #3

hotdoghogieDoes anyone know if it is possible to weld a H190 diff without dissasembling the whole thing? Im going to do the plate method to maybe gain some clearence if possible, I prob don't have a clue wtf im talking about. Let me know guys.

Nope
Whole housing comes off... Or do what I did and leave the housing in, just pull the diff out of the housing.

hotdoghogieSep 2, 2010, 3:13 am · #4

Cool. so I mark the shims and bolts and sun gear and make sure they go back on the exact same way they came off. Will I still have to adjust the gear lash? or bearing preload if applicable?

Also, you think a Lincoln 115v mig welder will make sufficient heat?

JaySep 2, 2010, 4:16 am · #5

hotdoghogieCool. so I mark the shims and bolts and sun gear and make sure they go back on the exact same way they came off. Will I still have to adjust the gear lash? or bearing preload if applicable?

Also, you think a Lincoln 115v mig welder will make sufficient heat?

Don't even take out the bearings. it all comes out as an assembly, so your clearances won't change. Hard to tell, but this is the whole diff pulled out of it the housing. I'm guessing I misunderstood you, and this was what you were ACTUALLY asking. Instead of me thinking that you were asking if it was something like the R180 or R200, where you don't even NEED to take it off of the car. I left mine in the carrier, cleaned it up SUPER well, and used a 240v MillerMatic with a high nickel content wire. Tried and true outlaw, dirt track, and late model diff welding solution.

EDIT: It's also worth noting that I did not do it myself, I instead payed 50 dollars and took it down to a man who use to work with Carrol Shelby in his design shop. And he put a guarantee on it that If I do not cross 350 hp, and it pops. he will replace it free of charge.

And no, that will not be anywhere close without something else helping it along (As in, preheating).

posted image

hotdoghogieSep 2, 2010, 4:28 am · #6

Yeah I should've clarified the fact I was referring to just removing the third member from the case. My bad

hotdoghogieSep 7, 2010, 1:06 am · #7

well we ended up finding a 220v argon welder and went to town... the results

posted image

David BSep 7, 2010, 3:18 am · #8

looks decent to me.
get all the slag off the gears btw with a flathead and brake clean

hotdoghogieSep 7, 2010, 4:54 am · #9

yeah i did... it was hard to get down in between the gears. I hope it doesnt hurt it, just a bunch of tiny ones. I ran lighter weight fluid too so hopefully all the slag that does get free in there will sink faster and not be sustained. I plan on changing the fluid here shortly.

JaySep 7, 2010, 4:57 am · #10

hotdoghogieyeah i did... it was hard to get down in between the gears. I hope it doesnt hurt it, just a bunch of tiny ones. I ran lighter weight fluid too so hopefully all the slag that does get free in there will sink faster and not be sustained. I plan on changing the fluid here shortly.

Mine was covered and only got minor slag in the ring gear.
brass wire wheel on the polisher at low speed took care of that right quick

Neil_skiSep 9, 2010, 7:25 pm · #11

(I'll have to double check on the highway) Will not disengage/downshift to third. But will downshift to second when I floor it.

And the car will shudder at around 40MPH when I give it gas and (I think) it's stuck in OD. But then other times, it will downshift when I drop to lower speeds.

Usually I'll just switch OD off when I'm driving within that speed range, but is this a major worry? It the torque converter on it's way out?

I noticed that the previous owners overfilled it with trans fluid. Trying to figure out how to drain some off. Is there a drain plug? Or should I pump some out of the dipstick tube?

Thanks!

datzenmikeSep 11, 2010, 12:49 am · #12

A pox on previous owners.

Over filling can cause the fluid to be high enough to be whipped into a froth by the spinning parts. The transmission is held in gear by hydraulic pressure from the oil pump. Because air compresses (think of air in the brake or clutch lines) the clutches may slip and burn out or jump in and out of gear due to varying pressure.

If you can suck the extra fluid out the filler tube, fine. If not get a new pan gasket and unbolt and let the fluid out. There is no drain plug on the L4N71B. If the fluid is bright red things could be fine. If brown or black, drain it all out and replace. The discoloring is from worn clutch material and heat... it may already be too late. Don't drive it until the fluid level is on the proper mark on the dip stick.