Rotor grinding agains caliper (updated 21/03/2013)

I have the driver side rear caliper that grind on the rear rotor sometimes.. I'm guessing I need new rear wheel bearings in the rear. Their the same since I got the car (5yrs) and with the -3* camber in the rear, I think it would be a good thing to put new ones anyway.

By looking at the exploded view in the FSM or NISSAN FAST, there is a inner and outer bearing on each side.



There is no problem with finding the inner bearing (no. 43210)

For the outer one (no. 43215), it is the same item number for any S12 year with the CA20E and IRS but almost all bearing supplier get two different number for S12s 'til 7/86 and from 7/86.

Is there really a difference? My car have been built in 1987 according to the VIN but it is clearly a MKI version. What bearing you guys would use?

pm me your vin and ill work on it i have fast at home its pretty tricky with the s12's and using fast

vin PM'ed

ur vin dosent work but i got it dude (must be because its canadian market) iono nissan fast is fucking retarded tho so it could be anything.

outer= 43215-19P00
inner= 43210-21000

two of each if your doing both sides mate!

Ok, I ordered two outer for a 1984-1986... Hopefully they fit right although my VIN say its a 1987 but it is clearly a MKI.

Damn that's awesome Nissan still has mk1 parts in 87 so u have one of the last mk1.5 cars that's to cool

dont think wheel bearing is ur problem but GL

IggyEGuanadont think wheel bearing is ur problem but GL

Well I'm updating this, because I just replaced my caliper for some rebuilded ones, and put new pads and rotor in the back.

I still have a grind from the rotor touching the caliper. It hit inside, on the part of the caliper that bolt to the bracket... I took a measure from the inner face of the rotor to the outer edge of the caliper bracket... the distance is 1/8 shorter on the driver side (the side it's rubbing).

Now what the hell could cause that? I checked both rotor and they are the same dimensions, so it means that either my caliper bracket is pushed out or the hub is pushed in... The caliper bracket is a thick piece of steel.. I don't see how I could have bend it... and as for the hub.. it shouldn't be able to move inside the control arm.

I'm kinda lost on this.. i'm guessing I'll have to buy a used driver side control arm/axle combo and replace it.

The bearings feel good btw, no slack whatsoever.

Wheel bearing is an easy check... Just try shaking the wheel, if it moves, then bearing(s) are gone... But if those are bad, you would know while driving, especially if it's loose enough for the rotor to contact the torque member.

^ it doesn't move up/down or aft/fwd at all.. now I haven't tried pushing/pulling on the axle.. but as you said I would have probably felt it when driving if the axle was moving at all.

I'm heading to the garage right now, gonna take the brakes off on both rear wheels and measure/compare them.

Pics of both sides might be helpful. Did you replace the wheel bearings like you talked about in Aug 2010? I assume your rear end is all stock set up?

i didn't change the bearings, there was no slack so I guessed they were okay. If anything there is a slight slack on the passenger side one (which is fine in term of rotor/caliper clearance). I still have the bearing I ordered in 2010 so I might just install them when I have time.

Yes i'm all stock in the rear appart from prothane bushing all around. Stock IRS with the stock R180.

I did some measurement tho, my hub is pushed in 1/8th on the driver side... my idea about it: I hit a curb with that wheel a few years ago with some steelies doing some jackassery, bent the rim. I didn't did any further investigation after the incident, but maybe I crushed something inside the axle when it happened? Still, it's weird that there is no play in the axle at all. I can't make it move if I push/pull on it.

Anyway I just installed back the old rotors and pads for now. I have to get the car running by next thursday before leaving for a month again and the engine is still all apparts lol. Once I get back from that shift I'll take out the axle and check it out.

I'll keep you guys updated. It suck but it's better to find that this is wrong rather than scrapping a fresh new caliper/rotor.

have you looked in the suspension parts that hold on to the hub to see if they could be tweeked?

also are these a free floating rotor? or do the get held down with a clip or screw?

The suspension arm itself has a big tube that the axle/hub assembly goes inside. The caliper bracket  is welded on the end of the tube... so i'm positive it's the hub that is pushed in, and not the tube that have been bented.

Yes floating rotor. The rotor is sandwiched between the wheel and hub.