So I'm Planning To Boost My Pathy, I Could Use Some Help...

Now I know that this is an s12 forum but I need help and everyone else has turned me away. My crazy plan according to some is to take my 1994 Pathfinder 4x4 5 speed and put a custom built remote turbo setup on it. This is my parts list so far... I need some help with the BOV, Wastegate, and Fuel System "I need to know what kind of injectors/ other stuff I may need." This is my first turbo project so if you guys have some information that I may need PLEASE tell me! I'm serious about doing this, as soon as my Harley sells I'm going to be buying the parts so this project will happen either by Christmas or early spring next year. Before I do though I need to get my information in order and know what I'm getting in to. Fun facts that may be needed by you guys... I'm thinking of 10-15lbs of boost, is this too much? Also will the MSD 6AL-2 unit work with the vg30e? I'm already prepared to custom wire it, I just want to know if it will work. Thanks guys!  

1.   New VG30E Long Block $2000.00+

2.   Pacesetter Headers $238.53

3.   Stage 5 Racing Clutch $522.99
http://www.slickcar.com/productdetails.asp?ProductID=21224

4.   Racing Distributor $329.00 http://www.importperformanceparts.net/impo...ors-nissan.html

5.   Turbo $809.00
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...1_BANJO_ADAPTER

6.   BOV…Recommended BOV???

7.   Wastegate…Recommended Wastegate???

8.   Intercooler $57.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-F...sQ5fAccessories

9.   MSD Ignition system $243.99
 http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/642...roductId=747792

10.   MSD Blaster 3 Coil $45.99
 http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/822...roductId=745372

11.   ECU Upgrade $295.00
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/computer-upgrade-p-5538.html

12.   High Performance Cams $550.00
 https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/high-perfor...ams-p-5185.html

13.   Heavy Duty Valve Springs $128.00
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/heavy-duty-...set-p-5186.html

14.   Spintech Muffler $95.49
http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5701658.html

BoostedPathy1.   New VG30E Long Block $2000.00+

RedneckI dunno about the rest of your build but I can tell you that I don't think you need to spend 2 grand on a new vg30e long block. A good condition sub 200k vg30e is good for at least 400whp as long as your tune is good. The most crucial and overlooked thing when it comes to engine reliability is your tune. The vg30 bottom end from the factory is a beast so unless your gonna be pushing more than 450-500whp I don't think aftermarket pistons or rods are necessary. If you really wanted too you could do a basic light rebuild on your current vg30 for much much less than 2 grand.

Can't offer any advice, but thats gonna be a damn nice truck when you get done with it.

BoostedPathyIt's running at 195,000 miles right now and everytime I start it the valves clack and tick for like 10 seconds. Thats the only reason I wanted to start fresh with a new engine.

RedneckMy s12 SE with almost 210k miles does the exact same thing every time I cold start it yet is very healthy. Extremely common for higher mileage vg30's to do that. 99% sure it is just the lifters. My old man has a z31 with the vg30et and is making over 350whp with bone stock internals and has had zero reliability issues. If the clacking lifters were your biggest concern then your fine. As long as the compression is still decent and your not going though too much oil I wouldn't even worry about the rebuild till down the road. Just make sure when it is all put together you don't cheep out on your tuning and all will be good.

BoostedVGI wouldn't change the distributor or use a MSD ignition. Also the fuel injectors in your current motor are expensive and had to find. I would swap out the lower intake for an 80's 300zx lower intake so you can use more common fuel injectors. 550 cc injectors would be a good size. I think I would also keep the stock manifolds over headers. For heat and longevity reasons. 15 psi on a stock vg30 should be no problem. Good luck with the build

BoostedPathyI like the MSD 6AL series ignitions, I know I know the stock Nissan ignition is great and all but I love the easy adjustability of the 6AL-2. I'm going to wrap the headers and plus I want as much flow as possible to the turbo. Not only that I hate the pathfinder manifolds because they split like shorty headers, the only difference is they have these little rings for seals, not a gasket type thing like headers use. I have tried replacing three of those rings and ruined every one of them. Right now my pathy sounds like crap because of the exhaust leak that those things caused.  

So you're saying that I need to keep my eyes out for a 300zx lower intake? Also what kinds of injectors do I search for? I don't really know too much about them. Can I use the Pathfinder style intake plenum with the 300zx lower intake? I want to use it because I hear it accepts flow better than the regular z31.

Where can I find fuel injectors and different highflow rails?

BoostedVGThe upper pathy intake will fit the 300zx lower. I would use mercedes benz injectors, I have to search for the part number for them though, and a z31 fuel rail. It will flow enough fuel for what your doing. If you want something like the kit you posted I'd have some one make it, $1500 is very expensive for what your getting... It looks very nice though.

I have a Suggestion for you. You may not agree because things like this is personal opinion but I think you would be better off using a Rotrex C38-81 supercharger for this build rather than a Remote mount turbo. Here is why. With the turbo you picked you will need to run water and oil lines to the back. That will require a pump for the oil line. You will need to get a oil and water feed and return for both. Also that's alot of pipe work aswell. Now why do I think the Rotrex is better. It comes with it's own self containted oil system. There is no need to tap a oil or water feed for it. There is very little noise and doesn't add to under hood heat at all. There is no issues of boost spikes or wastegate problems. It's a set it up and do oil and filter changes are only needed once every two years or 50,000 miles kind of system. At the very least I think you should read up on the Rotrex and see what it has to offer.
Here is a link with great Rotrex info. http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthrea...2254-Rotrex-Kit

Here's my thoughts. Mind you, they're just what I would personally do.

Boost your current motor. Tune your setup using something that's already slated as disposable.

VG'a have HLA's, that clack is normal for even a fresh motor. The HLA's haven't pressurized yet. If you must replace anything, do the oil pump and HLA's to minimize the ticking.

Search for a much more reasonably priced VG

South Bend clutches. Call them and ask if they can hook you up.

Your going somewhat overkill on a lot of things, this is both a good and a bad thing.

If you have to go with an external gate... Tial wastegates, or a proper ebay one rebuilt with genuine TIAL parts. This is not a part you want to fail while driving down the road. Synapse is also a good one, but overpriced.

Just dive into your motor. No book will tell you anything more than experience ever will. All you really need is any old FSM or chilton/haynes. More than enough information right there.

Any reputable bov, or reputable knockoff (The TIAL knockoffs are cheap, and any old cheap RFL will more than get the job done). The only thing you have to consider is boost leaks wreaking havoc on tunability.

That ecu upgrade will fairly fit the bill, but spend more in management and spend less in headaches. personally I'd go with nistune or a megasquirt. Something that won't involve burning chips. If they/you have an emulator/romulator this will provide that for initial tuning on that board, and burn the final chip. but all of this will cost more than a nistune ecu. But I don't know if the ECU is identical to the z31 one...

Tuning is a learned activity, not a taught one. Read everyone's experience. Or pick up a book by Corky Bell title Maximum boost and read it in your leisure time. It's outdated tech, but solid info.

That turbo? Go cheaper and "arguably" better. Holset HX/HY all the way. Keep in mind your oiling and cooling too... Probably should buy an electric pump and make a tank for the oil back there...

Cheap intercoolers are nothing to shy away from. Expensive ones offer minimal gain. so that's a thumbs up.

Wideband?

Your injector size will vary greatly depending on the setup you want to run. High fuel pressure smaller injectors with a longer pulse width? Low pressure, larger injectors, shorter pulse width? etc...

Probably will most definitely need trans upgrade, I would assume transfer case upgrade, Along with differential, and axle upgrades. Dunno about the driveshaft/ujoints though.

I can keep going, but this is a hell of a project. And listening to my word would be the wrong way to go. Read up, make personal informed decisions, and don't rely on other people. That will just kill the project altogether. A good place to start would be Z31performance.com. Troll around and read.

-J

To the supercharger guy, I forgot to add that the turbo will be set up pretty close to the engine, since it's going to be attached to the header flange...the pic I attached shows it pretty good I think. I don't really have to worry about plumbing, actually it's easier to do it this way than the regular way as far as I can see. I'm putting a small tank and oil cooler plus a pump down their as well. Plus I'm a turbo guy...I love that spool sound!

Here

To Jay-

I actually am getting Maximum Boost from my library it should be here next week.

I already got the injector thing figured out I'm just waiting on those part #'s from BoostedVG.

I also found a reman engine for $750 So I'm not paying 2000 for a new one! That cuts a hell of a chunk out right their haha!

Also I know nothing about engine managment and how it would tie in to my electrical   , although from Big Phil the 280z guy on youtube I've heard pretty good things about megasquirt.  I found this little v force module and was wondering if it would help with the ecu upgrade. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/vforce-plus...ule-p-5971.html

I was affraid of having to upgrade my tranny and rear end. I can't find anything on google about different gears or stronger tranny parts or axles ect...  

I'm going to serch for a different turbo, I was thinking about this one opinions?

http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-p...rbocharger.html

The mercedes benz injectors are top feed with hose and work with the z-31 fuel rails. If you want injectors that will work with the machined  rails look for R-x7 or DSM fuel injectors. You can get a used set off Ebay. Also when your remote mounting your turbo just keep the turbo higher than your oil pan and you will not need any pumps or anything crazy.


This is what I came up with for my s-12. Your pathy has even more room under the hood so things should fit fine. Also what do you plan on doing with pathy? A fire breathing street sleeper or a bad ass off roader?

VG30e's are a dime a dozen. Your talking about an engine that was made for a decade with minimal changes. I wouldn't pay $700 personally. I have two complete VG's with low miles and a spare block all of which was under $200. Save where you can, this is a spendy project.

To BoostedVG I plan on keeping just a tad below the oil pan so I think it would be best to put a small recirculating pump on it. Especially since I am adding the oil cooler.

Thanks for the injector help! I think I'm going to use a z31 fuel rail and some of the benz injectors.
 
I'll have to check but I think I have less room than you do in your car. I'll post some pics later just for S&G.  

I plan on making it kinda bolth, When I'm completely finished it will have a 3in lift I'm going to have two sets of tires though, seeing as I don't really want to burn the rubber off BFG Mud Terrains haha. I'm thinking of putting some hoosiers on a second set.

To jordan... Do you think that I should just rebuild my old engine instead? I found that chilton book on my pathy that Jay was talking about so I'm seriously thinking about it. If I do that I'm putting in some forged lower compression pistons. That is if I can find them... any resorses???

Also I know someone will probably ask so, I'm routing the air cleaner back up in the engine compartment that way I don't suck water when it rains or I go through river crossings.

I guess I forgot to wash her off last time we went puddle jumpin haha!  
Engine 1

As you can see here it doesn't have much room...  
Engine 2

But luckily there's plenty of room on this side to run the plumbing.
Engine 3

I can't wait to get electric fans so I'll have some more room haha!  
Engine 4

Ever consider nistune?

Biggest thing to say...
That oil pump setup will kill your turbo very, very quickly.

Your assuming on there being oil pressure post turbo, this is very very bad. Turbo's are pressurized before, and inside. After the turbo cannot be pressurized at all, this is why it's called an oil dump. Oil needing to be forced through the cooler will cause pressurization. It is extremely recommended not to even have the oil cooler in the same "circuit" as the turbo...

You also have to consider the pump. It needs to be submerged as it cannot pump air. Nor can it pump a half full line.

Put it on it's own system.... Or keep it above the pan.... Or you'll need a tank that the pump will be fully submerged in oil/constant oil supply... Never, ever let that oil dump get full

Oh. and your turbo is still way too expensive and large for your goals. A T4 is huge, and will most likely take forever to spool. Holset HX35. Look it up. Like a GT35R but MUCH cheaper...

Nistune = cheaper than those 2 ECU components. and vastly better

unless you're looking for over 400whp, the part list you have is wayyy overkill.

the Z guys have a lot of success with the holset turbos, they are pretty cheap and easy to come by.

i guess it really matters how much power you're looking for and how much you're willing to spend.