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ok i just got my car and im trying to fix what i think is the clutch, when i try to put it into gear it wont go in and it slowly trys to takes off, at first i though it was the slave cylinder sticking and i replaced it but it still does it just not as bad!
I think its the clutch going out but i dont know for sure and i dont want to buy a clutch and find out i didnt need one like i did with the slave.
Rome11sixok i just got my car and im trying to fix what i think is the clutch, when i try to put it into gear it wont go in and it slowly trys to takes off, at first i though it was the slave cylinder sticking and i replaced it but it still does it just not as bad!
I think its the clutch going out but i dont know for sure and i dont want to buy a clutch and find out i didnt need one like i did with the slave.
xxstreetbikesxxSame thing happened to my buddys camaro. nothing major.
Its not dissengaging all of the way. You just need to adjust it.
Might be the clutch master cylinder or the dampener. Many just remove the dampener.
I've had to replace both the master and the clutch cylinders over the years, and adjust to.
does removing the dampener stiffen things up?!?!
I had a fair bit taken off my flywheel and I think due to that my clutch engages way too high and I dont like it.....probably not much I can do about it but a stiffer feeling would be cool haha
Kustamogendoes removing the dampener stiffen things up?!?!
I had a fair bit taken off my flywheel and I think due to that my clutch engages way too high and I dont like it.....probably not much I can do about it but a stiffer feeling would be cool haha
Kustamogendoes removing the dampener stiffen things up?!?!
I had a fair bit taken off my flywheel and I think due to that my clutch engages way too high and I dont like it.....probably not much I can do about it but a stiffer feeling would be cool haha
The push rod on the the clutch pedal itself is threaded for adjustment.
^^^^What he said. Of course you can and must adjust a hydraulic clutch. You can damage your tranny if its not adjusted within spec.
In my travels I've found that it's best to stick to the factory slave pushrod. If you need more adjustment it's usually because your master cylinder or slave cylinder is in need of replacement, or you may need to raise the pivot point of the clutch fork.
Sounds like you need to bring that engagement point up.
Kustamogendoes removing the dampener stiffen things up?!?!mines removed and id say theres a diference definetly stiffer i like!
I had a fair bit taken off my flywheel and I think due to that my clutch engages way too high and I dont like it.....probably not much I can do about it but a stiffer feeling would be cool haha
turbo-s12mines removed and id say theres a diference definetly stiffer i like!Looks like I have to do this then! I haven't had my car too long and although it shifts smoothly the car has the softest clutch I've ever felt. A new hydraulic hose and adjustment are in order though.
The adjustment on the peddle/clutch master cylinder is only for adjusting the peddle free play. It's not for setting the clutch engagement point. If you adjust tighter, the piston in the master does not fully return to it's rest position and the fluid that was pushed down the line to the slave cannot fully return to the master reservoir. Residual pressure will remain in the system slowly building with each use until the clutch is fully disengaged and stays that way. I've seen this, and the owner had to open the slave bleeder and let off the hydraulic pressure to get the clutch arm to return. Incorrect setting of the free play was the cause after replacing the master.
Fill the master and keep it full. Pump peddle several times and hold while someone opens the slave bleeder. Close bleeder and release clutch. Repeat until all air is expelled.
hey guys can i get a list of parts i need to do my 5 speed swap.wanna make sure i have all the parts
its weird cause the other day it shifted fine and then i turned the car off at the store came back and it wouldn't go into gear or shift well and i would have to RPM shift it.
i am doing a ka24 swap and and doing the bellhousing swap to so i hope that might fix it cause i think the prob is the pressure plate!
ive been seaching up the same stuff recently, so ill give you a hand...
you need
5speed trans (S12 B or C trans with Xmember, or an S13 C trans with a modded X-member)
Clutch pedal assembly from an s12
Clutch master, Slave and Hardlines from an S12
5speed driveshaft, if your going S13 trans, you need the DS from an S13, more specifically the front half of it
should be it, with the S13 swap,theres a little differences
hope it helps
VG30_S12ive been seaching up the same stuff recently, so ill give you a hand...
you need
5speed trans (S12 B or C trans with Xmember, or an S13 C trans with a modded X-member)Clutch pedal assembly from an s12
Clutch master, Slave and Hardlines from an S12
5speed driveshaft, if your going S13 trans, you need the DS from an S13, more specifically the front half of it
should be it, with the S13 swap,theres a little differences
hope it helps
xxstreetbikesxxtry to avoid the B trans from the ca20e..
Worst trans nissan made.. ever..
Unless your only running 125whp.. tops. anything over that, and it will blow.
xxstreetbikesxxtry to avoid the B trans from the ca20e..The B trans gets so much hate. A good condition B tranny can definitely take more than 125whp tops. The C tranny is unquestionably stronger and superior but a lot of people make the B tranny seem to be this horrible get rid of it at all costs tranny which is fairly over exaggerated. I am rocking the original B tranny in my ka24de s12 and while it is no C tranny it gets the job done. Either way the OP has an SE so I don't think we need to worry about him downgrading to the B tranny.
Worst trans nissan made.. ever..
Unless your only running 125whp.. tops. anything over that, and it will blow.
RedneckThe B trans gets so much hate. A good condition B tranny can definitely take more than 125whp tops. The C tranny is unquestionably stronger and superior but a lot of people make the B tranny seem to be this horrible get rid of it at all costs tranny which is fairly over exaggerated. I am rocking the original B tranny in my ka24de s12 and while it is no C tranny it gets the job done. Either way the OP has an SE so I don't think we need to worry about him downgrading to the B tranny.
woa, then i retract my previous statement lol.
I thought the b trans couldent take much power, and that it was only for economy..
xxstreetbikesxxwoa, then i retract my previous statement lol.
I thought the b trans couldent take much power, and that it was only for economy..
silvias121987hey guys can i get a list of parts i need to do my 5 speed swap.wanna make sure i have all the parts
just a little add on to the B tranny love, itwas also the trans of choice for our pinical of S12, the FJ20ET which had 180ish hp and 200+ intercooled
besides, any transmission can handle HP, its tourqe and traction that kills a transmission
VG30_S12just a little add on to the B tranny love, itwas also the trans of choice for our pinical of S12, the FJ20ET which had 180ish hp and 200+ intercooled
besides, any transmission can handle HP, its tourqe and traction that kills a transmission
xxstreetbikesxxHmm. i have my b trans hooked up to my kat for now.. untill i get my driveshaft for my ka trans..
Maby i shouldent even bother..
Do you guys think that the b trans can hold up to 250hp?
JayYes
The question you should be asking is "How long?" Of which, nobody will be able to answer. I would venture to say anywhere from 1 second, to 80 years
basically for that trans to last for sometime, don't launch it hard, don't do it often, and if I were you, don't get to many good hard launches at the track..
on the street you shouldn't be able to get the traction to do damage as traction will break first, the strip is a different story
one more thing to consider: new rear main seal. might as well replace it while the trans is out, as it only takes a few extra minutes and a couple bucks.
JayYesMy professional opinion would be that the W71B trans should hold nearly as much as the W71C, they're for the most part the same design, though I don't recall anything about gear widths.
The question you should be asking is "How long?" Of which, nobody will be able to answer. I would venture to say anywhere from 1 second, to 80 years
well i`ll be bolting up an sr tranny with a vg bell housing to my vg motor.so i should be fine
seishukuMy professional opinion would be that the W71B trans should hold nearly as much as the W71C, they're for the most part the same design, though I don't recall anything about gear widths.
The biggest difference is the internal vs. external shift linkage.
With the SR guys, it's mostly known that the W71C can hold 350ft. LBS and be fairly reliable, as long as you NEVER put wrinkle walls or drag radials on.
hey guys.is the z31 clutch pedal the same as ours??it sure does look the same
Did you even check you master to see if the fluid was low????
Did you try bleeding any air out of the system????
These are cheap easy things to do first to help isolate the problem.
Why is it when someone forgets to keep their master full and gets air in the hydraulic system they find it so much easier to say. "Guess it's time to do a KA swap" ????