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Trans Oil Tech: Motor Oil Vs. Gear Oil

Started by seishuku · Jul 25, 2010 · 17postsSMF 2010–26

seishukuJul 25, 2010, 11:19 pm · #1

Any thoughts?
I've been thinking of running a 10w40 or 20w50 motor oil in my trans, instead of the usual Pennzoil Synchromesh oil I normally put in. Mostly because it's easier to find than an actual GL4 gear oil. Cheaper too.

They would be roughly the same viscosity, both are yellow metal safe, and a lot of manufacturers still recommend a motor oil for their manual transmissions.

deadpirateJul 25, 2010, 11:38 pm · #2

the gear oil should be around 75w90

JonBJul 25, 2010, 11:50 pm · #3

I personally like the gooie rotten banana smelling stuff. I really liked it when I was in highschool when I had a hippy mop and would get it in my hair.

At least once a year I have a transmission or somthing in my trunk oozing the crap on to my pristeen parking spot at work through the drain plug in my tire well. This year it's a Ford 8.8 IRS center section, last year it was a Mazda turbo 2 transmission.

I'd just stick with the viscosity the manufacturer recommends. Atleast untill after a few years of tribology studies.

datzenmikeJul 26, 2010, 1:09 am · #4

Nissan recommends GL4 80W90 NOT motor oil. Newer cars may be designed to get away with this but not yours or it would say so. Ive never heard that motor oil was 'yellow metal' safe, it may well be, but I've never heard this. It's cheaper???? In the long run isn't it cheaper to use the correct oil and change every 30K miles. If it was $15 a quart that's still only $10 a year to properly protect your transmission vs. how much to rebuild? Replace with a used one? Even a free one... you still have to take the old one out and new one in. Plus the tranny could fail and leave you stranded. $30 is cheap. NAPA had some for $20 a gallon, enough for 60K miles. Ask Shucks, NAPA ,Pep Boys, Lordco and try gas stations and places that repair vehicles. Try places that cater to transport trucks. Maybe they'll sell you a gallon.

Be absolutely sure it says GL-4. Second best is GL4 compatible or 'yellow metal safe', but don't take some minimum wage dick's word that GL5 is 'just as good' or 'supersedes GL4'

seishukuJul 26, 2010, 3:07 am · #5

Newer cars? Honda did it since the early 80's! (maybe longer?)
Mazda appearently did too on a few models.

It's a difference of $8/quart vs. $5/quart, that's quite a difference. And like I said, it's getting harder and harder to find a true GL4 oil with out special ordering (which usually takes 2+ weeks here).

Depending on if our local stores has any of my usual Pennzoil, I may try motor oil. We'll see, I'm not too worried about hurting the trans.

Personally I would rather use a motor oil, if I can't find a GL4.

Oh, and the GL5 oils around here are all labeled as "GL4 compatible", so yea, you can't trust what the bottle says, and you can't trust the people at the store.
That's why I went researching this topic, and it seems that a lot of people use heavy motor oils in their trans, even in trucks they tow stuff with!

deadpiratethe gear oil should be around 75w90
On the viscosity scales of motor vs. gear oil, they are close.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
deadpirateJul 26, 2010, 3:21 am · #6

Hmm, I suppose. Though I'd really expect shear life to be a lot less compared to gear oriented oils. If you were to really use motor oil, I'd suggest you change it more often. GL4 also has sulphur additives in it whereas motor oils do not so just be weary.

seishukuJul 26, 2010, 3:24 am · #7

Hell, even some corvettes spec out an ATF for their manual trans.

Yeah, the shear isn't as good, though I usually change my trans oil every third or fourth engine oil change. (year and a half to two years?)

But isn't sulfur what causes GL5 oil to eat brass?

blue streakJul 26, 2010, 3:26 am · #8

Don't see much of a difference between 10w30 and syncromesh anyway. As for me, until there is a definitive answer on other alternative oils, I'll stick with my GL-4. I've seen some marine gearlubes at walmart fairly cheap that are yellow safe. Many people are trying new and different approaches, thats the great thing about this community. If it works for you, great!!!

P.S. I'm still using my $15 a quart royal purple

IggyEGuanaJul 26, 2010, 5:11 am · #9

the inside of a honda trans (89 crx) doesnt look any different from our C trans materials wise.  maybe the syncros are a diff kind of brass or something but doesnt seem like it. i wonder what the honda service interval for the trans fluid is compared to nissan's interval

JayJul 26, 2010, 5:20 am · #10
seishukuNewer cars? Honda did it since the early 80's! (maybe longer?)
Mazda appearently did too on a few models.

It's a difference of $8/quart vs. $5/quart, that's quite a difference. And like I said, it's getting harder and harder to find a true GL4 oil with out special ordering (which usually takes 2+ weeks here).

Depending on if our local stores has any of my usual Pennzoil, I may try motor oil. We'll see, I'm not too worried about hurting the trans.

Personally I would rather use a motor oil, if I can't find a GL4.

Oh, and the GL5 oils around here are all labeled as "GL4 compatible", so yea, you can't trust what the bottle says, and you can't trust the people at the store.
That's why I went researching this topic, and it seems that a lot of people use heavy motor oils in their trans, even in trucks they tow stuff with!
On the viscosity scales of motor vs. gear oil, they are close.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html


My probe recommends Merc/Dex for it's manual trans. Because of the check valves. I've been doing some studying to make a frankentrans for that thing from a mixmatch of turbo and non-turbo parts. Which usually ended up with me very drunk and to this day, don't remember any of it.

IggyEGuanathe inside of a honda trans (89 crx) doesnt look any different from our C trans materials wise.  maybe the syncros are a diff kind of brass or something but doesnt seem like it. i wonder what the honda service interval for the trans fluid is compared to nissan's interval

Honda interval is I believe 100k miles, but I'll hafta check out the civics owners manual tomorrow

I wouldn't think that it would be the best idea though. Mainly because the syncros might give you a lot of fuss about it not being thick enough. But that's all I can really think of. The bearings would love it for shizzle
KustamogenJul 26, 2010, 5:21 am · #11

I use the redline shit....seems ok to me.....

although I noticed the other day after an hour+ of driving straight the shaft of the shifter is pretty damn hot....not sure I like that

JayJul 26, 2010, 5:22 am · #12
KustamogenI use the redline shit....seems ok to me.....

although I noticed the other day after an hour+ of driving straight the shaft of the shifter is pretty damn hot....not sure I like that

normal, actually. The trans gets nearly to engine temp. and that shaft is but metal connected to more metal through a plastic bushing
KustamogenJul 26, 2010, 5:23 am · #13
Jaynormal, actually

its nice on cold days.....good hand warmer
falkhenJul 26, 2010, 11:05 am · #14

Redline Shockproof lightWeight in my Box similar to :  SAE 75W140

My Rb transmission gets hot to even when I was running Amsoil oil

KeithJul 26, 2010, 1:30 pm · #15

I just need to change mine......
it's been about 4 years since I changed my tranny oil and about 10 years since I changed the diff oil

BoostedVGJul 26, 2010, 4:35 pm · #16

I've been using Lucas GL-5 75-90 in my white se. Its cheap and has never  given me any issues. I put about 100,000 miles on the car since I bought it.

datzenmikeJul 29, 2010, 1:52 pm · #17

$5 vs. $8????? That's it? The GL-4 is good for 30K so if you change the motor oil you put in oftener you have just spent more for less protection.(plus the bother)If GL-4 was $20 a liter it would be cheaper in the long run.