Coolant Leak Through To My Heater Core Unit???

Got the 200 started yesterday, ran it for a few minutes and it ran okay then it started idling high (about 1800rpm) and when I gave it gas it would try to stall out like it was starving for fuel. I bought a new battery end for the positive terminal cause the other was not good and a fuel filter. I started it up and again it ran fine for about 2-3 minutes and then started the high idling and trying to die when the throttle is pressed it also backfires, pops and cracks. I also noticed white smoke, which it did not have yesterday. My charger shows the battery is good but I am charging it now anyway. When the thing dies it will not turn over at all but when given a boost it starts, just runs like crap.  

I may have more than one problem with it. I did see a bare place on my ground cable and there is a wire from the body that looks like it goes to the starter, not sure, it does have an end on it like that though. I'm thinking I have a ground problem but would that explain all the problems? I have not replaced the plugs, etc because the guy I bought it from said they were good.

Any help would be appreciated.

The backfiring sounds like a timing issue as far as the white smoke goes sounds like a headgasket issue check the coolant and make sure there's no coolant in the oil and check and recheck the timing

check vacuum leak?

Phisherman09check vacuum leak?

i also had a problem with my s12. it started popping and backfiring. i thought it was a timing issue, but it was much more simple. there is a screw in the distributor that keeps it from free spinning, and that screw likes to back out. so pull your distributor apart and see if the screw is still in there.

Just spent some time changing the plugs and installing new NGKs. I also set the timing.

I have more questions now, this thing is driving me crazy.

First off, what is this:

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae356/d...ch/IMG_0654.jpg

Next, what the hell is this??? cannot see where it plugs up. Is this a diagnostic plug, or does something go here?
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae356/d...ch/IMG_0655.jpg

After I changed the plugs I set the timing. It ran good but idled at 1600rpm. I could not find the idle adjustment and tried adjusting the first thing (see 1st pic). Got the idle down to 800rpm but after I drove it it started running rich and backfiring and trying to die when I gave it gas.

It seems to run good until it reaches operating temp then it goes batshit. Do these have a coolant temp sensor and if so could this be the problem? There is no coolant in the oil. I'm stuck again and could really use some help. Have most everything working but I can't drive it like this.

Thanks.

picture 1: Idle air adjustment screw
Picture 2: Some S12's used that for the TPS. But not yours

Coolant temp sensor causes all sorts of whacky stuff. As does the AIV valve by the throttle body. two extremely common problem parts

My coolant temp sensor was defunct, and i couldn't accelerate at all until the engine warmed up. also made starting a pain in the ass in winter (Every morning had to use starting fluid)

Jaypicture 1: Idle air adjustment screw
Picture 2: Some S12's used that for the TPS. But not yours

Coolant temp sensor causes all sorts of whacky stuff. As does the AIV valve by the throttle body. two extremely common problem parts
My coolant temp sensor was defunct, and i couldn't accelerate at all until the engine warmed up. also made starting a pain in the ass in winter (Every morning had to use starting fluid)

datsun_guyThanks, I had the coolant temp sensor go out on my Z and it wouldn't run worth crap, that is what made me think of it on this one. Where is the best place (price wise) to get one? It starts fine but after warm up it starts with the backfiring and flooding out, I may need to replace both.

BTW, what is AIV?

Jay
It's this thing, Right under the intake tube At the throttle body
If that thing is stuck, It will cause ALL sorts of funky problems... Take it off and clean it out before you switch out the CHTS

datsun_guyOkay, got it out. What do I clean on this thing?  And what do I use? Carb cleaner or what? I can see a brass looking plate inside the top is this what sticks? It does not rattle when shaken, is it supposed to?

Found a CTS at Autozone for $15.99, I'm going to go ahead and get one of those. Anything else I may need?

JayCarb cleaner
Inside (Where the brass is)
No (Maybe)? neither of mine rattled.

It's not a CTS, It's the CHTS. It's by the timing belt, not on the thermostat housing

not to hijack your thread, but what happenes to the AIV once you have a tubo? Is a extra bung needed for the aiv, or is there a way to delete it?

Update!

After cleaning the AIV and replacing the CHTS it lives! Ran really good this evening and had more power than I thought it might have. Have a few small things left to work on (speedo doesn't work, no tailights or marker lights, testing A/C) but I should be able to start driving this thing.

Thanks guys.

BIG thanks to Jay for guiding me through this.

Well shit, thought it was fixed but no. Ran really good that afternoon, no smoking, no hesitation and no backfiring. After 30 minutes or so it started the same bullshit as before.  I thought perhaps the fuel filter needed changed again so I got another one the next day. Put it on, no better. The next day screwed around with it some more. Nothing. Yesterday I tried to start it and it would barely idle, if you tried to give it gas it would flood out. It died and when I tried to start it, the battery was weak. Then it hit me, it had to be the alternator. So, I charged the battery overnight and just put it in. it started right up but tries to flood out when the throttle is pushed. Backfire sounding like a damn cannon. And smoking like a MF freight train. You can get high standing behind it. My ammeter does not go past 12V in fact it does not move when I get the car to rev. Also, if I unhook the battery it dies.

I'm going to take the alternator out and take it to have it tested. But please more suggestions. It is running very rich. Will not take throttle. Starts to flood then backfires. Ran good for an afternoon then went back to the problems. Sometimes you can give it gas and it will rev but if you put a load on it will not rev past 3K.

THE FONZ: where is the screw in the dist? Is it under the cap or do I have to pull it out?

I'm beginning to wish I had never seen the car.  

Help please.

someone please help me with this problem i've been having. i've been adding coolant in my rad. and it runs out in a day and just found out where all of the coolant been leaking to. its been leaking through my heater unit and dont know what may be the problem. so can anyone help me with this problem cuz i cant drive while the coolants leaking into the car.

The heater core is located behind the dash. I had to change mine last year and i hated taking off the dash

dam dat my only option huh......

Pornosquadz what up u back homie! Mia bruh!

wat up dawg. been buzy with work and wifey just got prego 5 months wit my unborn child. i actually sold the s12 to my lil sis and baught a 2001 mazda protege mp3(4 door family car), still have my S13 laying around collecting dust. but yea bro. need some help right now with the heater core. i just got done taking out the dash and that shit was a bitch. anyways g2g junkyard shopping....

Okay so i've just acquired a $500 85 s12 hatch with 137,000 miles on the blown ca20e. the dude also gave me a spare ca20e with manual trans. so i begin the swap and there's slight differences between the two motors, for example some vacuum hoses on the intake lead nowhere, i had to swap out the plug on the alternator, and i had to change a pully out. anyway it all comes together and i find that the fuel pump is out, which is round about $240 for an OEM replacement.
so i have two questions.
will the slight differences in the two engines cause me problems?
is there a fuel pump for a different car that will do the job for less cash?
as it sat when i picked it up

the motor i put in it, lookin all janky

it had been sittin for a while but it had clean interior


any help would be greatly appreciated,
yes

your new ca20e your swapping is mk2, i bet your old one has a black valve cover thats mk1

by looking at your s12 you have a mk1, alls s12s have mk1 ca20es until after the mk1.5 (mk1.5's have wings but black valve covers) in 1986

so yea you might have some wiring issues. check the tech sections for help

get a 240 walbro pump for like 80-110$

shit get a 190 for even cheeper

Navy_Mech2shit get a 190 for even cheeper

David Byeab i was thinking about the walbro 255. i guess they make cheaper stock replacments.
it proball wont bolt in cause s12 ones are massive. just hose clamp shit everywhere to the sending unit