Ongoing Updates 87SEV6

Started by redbarron · Jul 27, 2009 · 87postsSMF 2010–26

redbarronOct 6, 2009, 9:20 pm · #51

EternalSwapcongrats, it looks like a good purchase!
did you get a fj too?
ps: am i mario now? holy side scroll batman

Sorry about the sidescroll. I like big pictures. 20" monitor makes it easy to forget. Sorry. No FJ.

XanoOct 7, 2009, 12:36 am · #52

I have a 19" monitor i read this stuff on here at work, and at home i use a widescreen 14.1" laptop. or a 17" CRT. on the CRT i couldnt tell you, as its been quite a while since I even bothered with it. The laptop I had to scroll for half of the right column of pictures to show up.

Here at work however, it all shows fine. Just try to avoid columns, just do a huge row of pictures. (hit enter after each [/img] tag.

redbarronNov 30, 2009, 4:20 pm · #53

Not much to add here except that I drove the 87 SE V6 for the first time. Just to get it inside the body shop so I can began working indoors.
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XanoNov 30, 2009, 5:03 pm · #54

how it feel driving wise, anything feel worn out?

you got enough S12s now haha, share one with me.

seishukuNov 30, 2009, 6:50 pm · #55

You've had enough, I'm still on my first!

XanoNov 30, 2009, 7:36 pm · #56

I would be too if idiots didn't run stopsigns in front of me and things haha. Well kinda...I'd still be on my Second one, which i liked.

The first one was a lost cause for me, no fucking way I couldve fixed all that rust on my own.

seishukuNov 30, 2009, 8:17 pm · #57

Yeah, I hear ya.

sam31183Dec 1, 2009, 1:26 am · #58

my parts car has a 18det under the hood........ok, that is funny and sad at the same time.

a tin pan alleyDec 1, 2009, 1:38 am · #59

redbarronDid your brother tear it up or something?

Funny about S12's and military people. My 88 was from a Marine and my 84 from an Air Force guy.

i bought mine from a middle aged woman who works at an air force museum. car came with air national guard and marine corps stickers on the rear quarter windows.

redbarronDec 1, 2009, 11:53 pm · #60

Xanohow it feel driving wise, anything feel worn out?

you got enough S12s now haha, share one with me.

The right rear caliper is frozen. Therefore, it is very difficult to really tell much of anything at this point. The engine could use a bit of a tune up but runs really smooth and quiet otherwise.

We pushed the '84 inside today. I would rather not work in the elements if I don't have to.
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I began disassembling the rear trim today. I didn't realize what a pain in the rear (no pun intended) it would be to remove the rear bumper cover. I have only removed the bolts (3 per side, accessed by removing much of the rear interior panels. Whilst removing interior trim, I came across lots of standing water in the spare tire well as well as a literal bird's next.
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XanoDec 2, 2009, 6:42 am · #61

Yeah, the rear bumper cover sucks if you try to remove just the cover without the bumper itself.

You almost have to remove the 8- 15 or 17mm bolts holding the whole assembly in place in order to remove the cover.

redbarronDec 2, 2009, 5:08 pm · #62

XanoYeah, the rear bumper cover sucks if you try to remove just the cover without the bumper itself.

You almost have to remove the 8- 15 or 17mm bolts holding the whole assembly in place in order to remove the cover.

On that note, I will be heading over to the body shop later today to remove the bumper covers.

For the rear:
I have removed the three per side bolts that hold the bumper cover on. I think there are 2 per side clips that hold the bumper flush to the quarter panel. How do you remove those clips without breaking them? Also, is it necessary to remove the bolts on that center metal support bracket at the bottom of the cover?

For the front:
I haven't started yet.

EternalSwapDec 2, 2009, 7:23 pm · #63

on the cars ive removed the bumper cover from, i dont remember any clips. the sides were only held on with three studs in a metal strip.
the bottom bolts do need to be removed for the cover to be removed. dont forget the bolts on top, a ratcheting 10mm stubby helped me out here.

redbarronDec 3, 2009, 7:33 am · #64

EternalSwapon the cars ive removed the bumper cover from, i dont remember any clips. the sides were only held on with three studs in a metal strip.
the bottom bolts do need to be removed for the cover to be removed. dont forget the bolts on top, a ratcheting 10mm stubby helped me out here.

Experience is king. You are right. I was wrong. I was basing my concern from looking at the Nissan OEM service manual. It shows little plastic clips. It isn't as detailed as I would like it to be.

Because of this, I'm going to provide a little bit more insight for those who ever decide to remove the rear bumper. I will include illustrations.

1) Remove the RH interior quarter trim to get to the outside edge bolts (sorry, I don't know the proper name). This is kind of a huge pain. I couldn't find a way around it. There are several bolts holding the trim together. Improvise if you know a better way.
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2) Remove the LH interior quarter trim cover where the jack goes. On either side you will find access to each of the 3 screws per side. Remove the nuts and put in a safe place.
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3) The rear floor pan contains 4 rubber plugs that appear to be drain plugs but are not. Remove these plugs to gain access to the 4 upper bolts (2 per side) that must come out of the frame. The photo indicates these with yellow arrows.

4) The lower frame RH bolt (blue arrow) that must come out can be accessed behind the fuel tank. The blue arrow in the photo indicates that the bolt is in a tight spot. A small ratchet could fit the small space. However, that did not allow enough hand room to break the bolt loose. I tried using an extension. The problem with the extension is that the fuel tank is in the way. Notice the photo with the extension not properly seated on the bolt. My answer was a half extension and larger ratchet. Take your time to remove stubborn bolts.
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5) Remove the tailpipe support bracket to gain access to the LH bolt (green arrow) that must come out. Save yourself from a huge headache. If the bolt gets to tough to loosen, try tightening it back up and repeat this action until it comes out more naturally. The 2 lower bolts down here (green and blue arrows) are larger than the 4 removed on top (yellow arrows). I had started removing this bold before the LH side bolt. It was so tight. There I was thinking it was almost out with only a turn or two left to go. I got impatient, grabbed the metal pipe extension and went to town on it. SNAP!!!!!!! I twisted the head right off.
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After this point you should be able to pull the bumper off without excessive force. Not the case for me today. Because of my impatience, there was about 2mm of a metal stub keeping the bumper in place. My friend, got a grinder out and basically just obliterated the stub.
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Here is a close-up of the frozen stud (green arrow) after removal of the rear bumper.
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The good thing about this experience is that I will be able to do it again next time with half the effort. I hope this helps someone else.

XanoDec 3, 2009, 9:14 am · #65

Yup just as I said, its definitally easier to mess with giant rusty bolts and just pull the bumper out away from the car.

How'd you remove it with that stud still so rediculously frozen. EDIT nvm, just read about the grinder.

Anyways, I had even worse problems with mine when I did it. The bolts were fine, and i was able to get the bumper off, but I had to straighten the bumper out using force, which meant the angle/direction the attachment arms were pointed werent the same as the angle and direction of the slots in the body of the car.

I spent an hour or two bending and straightening the pieces with a 20lbs sledge until it finally was lined up and the bumper itself was straight.

Ju_S12_TurboDec 3, 2009, 9:57 am · #66

redbarronExperience is king. You are right. I was wrong. I was basing my concern from looking at the Nissan OEM service manual. It shows little plastic clips. It isn't as detailed as I would like it to be.

Because of this, I'm going to provide a little bit more insight for those who ever decide to remove the rear bumper. I will include illustrations.

I vote back up on forum and sticky this mofo

redbarronDec 4, 2009, 1:44 am · #67

Ju_S12_TurboI vote back up on forum and sticky this mofo

I removed the front bumper today. It was not as difficult as the rear. I don't have photos on each step as before. However, I will explain the process I went through to get it off.

Keep in mind this is for the front bumper with chin spoiler. Don't know how different it would be without the chin spoiler.

1) First I removed the turn signals on the fender and the grill. Easy.

2) I removed two screws at the front of the wheel wells that fasten the chin spoiler to the fencer.

3) There are two support arms that branch off from the chassis to the lower fender at two points (one connects to the lower fender near the wheel and the other at the lower bumper and fender.

4) As before, there are 3 screws that fasten the bumper skin to the fender just behind the turn signal. The bottom 2 can be accessed under the wheel well. To access the top one is a challenge. I suppose removing the splash shield would be the best option but requires more work. You can reach a finger in through the turn signal hole between the headlight and fender to feel the top screw. Good luck getting a tool in there to turn it. It appears that you may be able to removed the battery on the RH side and air box on the LH side to gain access. I didn't try that approach. Instead, I removed the headlight covers and the bulbs. I was able to reach through the top of the headlight assembly to get a small ratchet with a 10mm socket into the position I needed. You only need to get a few turns on it to loosen the nut. I was able to put my finger back through the turn signal hole and twist the nut off with my finger and thumb.

5) In front of the radiator at the bottom, you will find a row of screws that hold the bottom part of the plastic cover to the radiator support panel. I think there were 7-9. Remove these with a screw driver.

6) This next part was not possible for me but I will explain. You will need to disconnect the wiring from the turn signals in the bumper. The wiring leaves the turn signal assemblies and goes through a hole in the bumper. You can see these holes under the car from the wheel wells. In my case, the wiring was very tightly secured by zip ties with no slack. The connection clips are visible and should be disconnected at this point. The zip ties may have to be cut off to allow for slack to disconnect. I got tired of fighting it and made a small cut in the wires. I can repair them easily.

7) For safety, it would be wise to support the bumper with something so it doesn't fall on your face when you remove the main chassis screws.

Cool After the bumper has support, there are two screws per side that bolt in horizontally to the chassis. These are 14mm and can be easily accessed from the fender area and wheel wells.

9) Without excessive force, I was able to pound and pull on the bumper to free it from the car.

Here are the photos after removal.
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EternalSwapDec 4, 2009, 8:47 am · #68

iirc the best way to get the top bolts on the front bumper are with a deep 10mm, then a lot of extensions

redbarronDec 18, 2009, 12:49 am · #69

Removing the SE side moldings (Especially for Paint Prep):

Tools required: Heat gun, Thin Spatula (or equivalent), Gum wheel, Adhesive remover

Please note that this is not the only way to remove the moldings and may not be recommended for those who care to keep original paint intact. My plan is to repaint and this is what worked for me.

1) Using the heat gun, I heated a 10" strip of the side molding from one end to 90-110 degrees Fahrenheit to soften the adhesive. When using a heat gun, keep at least 2-3 inches away from the surface that you are heating and never heat an area for any longer than a few seconds. If you are not careful, you will melt or discolor the molding. With time, I heated the area I was working on in slow passes.

2) Next, use a thin and wide wedge (spatula in my case) to slowly slice through the bonding agent. Once you get a few inches cleared, it becomes easier to lift away the molding. Bear in mind that there are two plastic clips on either end of each piece of molding. Be mindful when pulling the molding away from the body, these can break easily. Pliers may be required to unsnap the clips. (mine broke as they were all dry rotted.)

3) Repeat step one for each 6-10 inches until the moldings have all been removed successfully.

4) Many of the retainer clips may stay in the body. I had no success and removing these without destroying them. Good luck. Sorry to be so blunt.
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5) Removing the double sided tape is a huge chore. As much as I enjoy tinkering with old cars, I absolutely hate this part. There is a tool called a 'gum wheel' that is designed to remove thick adhesive and tape that is too difficult to remove by other means. If you use one of these, wear safety goggles and be sure that the wheel is spinning away from you. This way any debris will travel away from you instead of lodging itself in your face. Hold the wheel so that it spins downward while the axis is horizontal. It will take many passes to wear down the adhesive tape. *****IMPORTANT***** THIS COULD DESTROY YOUR PAINT. Be careful not to spend too much time in one area.
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6) After you have cleared the bulk of tape from the body, clean the rest off with adhesive remover (the kind that doesn't cloud your paint.

The molding removal took me 1 hour
The adhesive removal took me 2.5 hours (and a very sore hand, arm and neck).

redbarronJul 16, 2010, 10:47 pm · #70

I can't believe it's been nearly 7 months since I did anything with the car.
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ArroJul 16, 2010, 11:01 pm · #71

7 months is better late than never, right?

redbarronOct 25, 2010, 9:18 pm · #72

Even though my left rear brake caliper is stuck, I drove the car (slowly) around the block today. Very smooth and comfortable drive.

I can't remember if I posted these recent photos or not. But I finally installed the MKI trim on the front and rear. I still need to find a solution for the reverse lights and third brake light. The junction clip is different between the MKI and MKII styles.
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ArroOct 26, 2010, 1:48 am · #73

Jerry you gonna change the title? lol

The new system just requires you to go to the original post and full edit to access (and change) the title.

Car is clean... need to rid you some of that gap tho. Stock suspension must be kinda spongy by now.

BattleFairyNov 9, 2010, 8:37 pm · #74

awesome

thats hella clean

EightySix200SXNov 9, 2010, 10:19 pm · #75

this
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StephenGNov 9, 2010, 10:28 pm · #76

The notches are growing on me. I used to think the fronts didn't match the backs, but now I'm starting to see it as business in the front and a party at the rear.

hotdoghogieNov 9, 2010, 10:47 pm · #77

Lol you just sparked some ideas!

EightySix200SXNov 9, 2010, 10:53 pm · #78

and they were lazy all day. the end.
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vegasS12Nov 10, 2010, 2:07 am · #79

Super sick shit loving them two notches you guys make me want to finish my notch already!

sideways_s12Nov 10, 2010, 2:14 am · #80

WHERE'S MY STICKER!!!!!

that is all lol

EightySix200SXNov 10, 2010, 3:04 am · #81

sideways_s12 on 02:14:28 AM / 10-Nov-10WHERE'S MY STICKER!!!!!

that is all lol

ive finalized the designs for yours and waylons i should be getting them printed shortly here ill keep ya posted i havent forgotten

silvia loveNov 10, 2010, 3:24 am · #82

wow:O both cars are legit! u went ka, right? hows that running?

sideways_s12Nov 10, 2010, 3:41 am · #83

sweet thanks

EightySix200SXNov 10, 2010, 3:53 am · #84

silvialove: ka is holding up just fine! i love it... just got power steering back tackled that task monday before the shoot. threw a "new oem" but junkyard pump on it

jason: no worries just been hectic job hunting no real time for teh car or car stuffs

EternalSwapNov 10, 2010, 7:02 pm · #85

wtf i want a sticker lol

cars are looking good! damn good.

MaxpowNov 10, 2010, 10:05 pm · #86

EternalSwap on 07:02:36 PM / 10-Nov-10wtf i want a sticker lol

cars are looking good! damn good.

All that and <3

redbarronApr 26, 2012, 11:34 pm · #87

Ok, I said I would post some video this time. So here you go. Sorry for the aspect ratio being off. http://youtu.be/YxzrbYKpzyg