I was curious. Is it possible to swap out then entire drive-train from a '87 200SX SE V6 and put in a Z31 drive-train (trans, driveshaft, rear axel)? Would they bolt up? My Nissan is a little worse for the wear, and there aren't any 200SX left in any of the junkyards around. Just hoping maybe there's a glimpse of having this beautiful car back on the road.
Browse › Tech ›Drivetrain
300sx Diff In S12?????
you've managed to blow up your engine, trans, and rear end?
if so, respect.
anyway, engine yes, use the s12 manifolds, oil pan etc. trans i dont know, rear yes mostly.
Trans is longer, I've seen it. I can't say how much longer, but from what I could see, it's enough to where you'd need a custom trans mount, and possibly a custom driveshaft. If it's the same length as the KA trans, then you can use the S13/S12 driveshaft combo. But again I can't say for sure how long the Z31 trans is.
You said "drivetrain" but you didn't list the engine... Brewster is right IF the engine you are going with is a Z31 non-turbo engine. The turbo engine will NOT bolt in, even if you use S12 manifolds, because the Z31 turbo engine has its driver side mount located in a different position.
it would probably be easier to use a 240sx tranny and just swap bellhousings
Arrobecause the Z31 turbo engine has its driver side mount located in a different position.Wow, Nissan was big on seperate chassis/major component designs for different engines/transmissions around this era, weren't they.
Our cars have to be modified to run a manual transmission vs an automatic, but pretty much any nissan 4 cyl can be directly swapped into a 4cyl version of our cars....but then, the 300z, you can swap transmissions without problems, but cant swap the non turbo out for the turbo engine easily.
ACTUALLY...
the turbo engine would bolt in. you would have to use the steel bracket that bolts to the block, along with the manifolds, etc.
the blocks are tapped for both the turbo, and n/a brackets, and the n/a blocks are also tapped for oil feed, they are just plugged.
Ahhh so the Z31 VG30 blocks are *universal*. Interesting.
yeah the s12 ones should be also.
the oil feed, and bosses for mounting brackets apply to all the vg30's ive come across, z31, f31, pathfinder, truck, maxima etc.
most of the vg33's also.
brewster240ACTUALLY...you wouldnt be able to PM me a picture of that turbo feed plug would you? it might come in handy when I go to turbo my VG....
the turbo engine would bolt in. you would have to use the steel bracket that bolts to the block, along with the manifolds, etc.
the blocks are tapped for both the turbo, and n/a brackets, and the n/a blocks are also tapped for oil feed, they are just plugged.
stolen pics from another forum. i think he may be on here with a different sn, he has an s12.
stock m30 drivers side mount
m30
z31 85
holy rustbucket, I'm so glad I live in California!
Ok, so it appears you could drill and tap holes for the bracket relatively simply.
Interesting about the oil line spot, I never really looked that close at my S12's engine, i noticed bolts there, but figured the bolt looking deal was the coolant drain, and the other was just a random bolt for something else.
guess I was wrong.
Alright. No the engine is cherry. Purrs like a kitten. But the other night while I was going down the highway. She would shimmy real bad, and every time I let off the throttle, the rear end would get squirrely. She would try to step out just from letting off the throttle. I was sure the tires had blown or something, but then I noticed the tires were fine. So my next thought was the Tranny, Driveshaft, and the rear end. Any one of those would be a culprit in the shimmy process. But, since there aren't any 200SX around my parts. 300ZX are abundant, and was wondering if things like the drivetrain (minus the engine non-turbo) and possibly the exhaust would fit from a 300ZX.
you probably just need bushings in the rear.
or wheel bearings.
i wouldnt go through the trouble of swapping in another old worn out rear when you can just put in new service parts.
The problem was that 3 of the lug nuts fell off the rear passenger wheel. I was lucky for it not to fall off and damage my lovely Silvia. Nothing wrong with the car mechanically, aside from the speedometer cable snapped, and needing a new radiator, and an exhaust, and a battery. Other than that, she's a pearl.
Hey,,, you sure the speedo cable is actually snapped. my brother's speed died in his fc3s and he swapped out the gauge cluster and it worked fine. all needle type cluster, no digital shit. ,,, i don't have any experience with speed cables but i just thought i'd through that in,,, not sure how to check either
Most definitely the speedometer cable is broke. There's no sending piece in the part that connects to the speedo in the dash.
Anyone know of a place to find a speedo cable? I need one.
Also, my fuel pump isn't coming on. I used to hear the motor prime the engine but it's not even priming, so I dunno what to do. I'm worried she will never be alive on the road.
The only other thing I added to the car when I worked on it today, was a relay it was missing, so I'm clueless as to the problem. I checked the fuses, the sending unit, everything seems fine, it's just not starting. Turns over fine, good compression.
Any help is appreciated.
just wondering if anyone has done this swap befor and if its not possible what is a realy strong rear end to install?
you could get a r200 long nose out of a turbo s12 or v6 or a 84-89 300zx keep in mind you might as well get the whole rear end you'll need it
does a rear end from a newer 300sx fit or no?
you mean 300ZX, and no a z32 diff will not fit without modification of the subframe on the s12. you would then run into problems with the halfshafts and the input flange on the diff. a z31 diff would work with less mods.
and the se doesnt have an 2 wheel diff
A R200 will hold more than enough, probably more than the S12 chassis will
If I recall Ben D has an R200 in his and he's running very low 9's.
FJ20ET turbo 1990cc DOHC 16 valve four cylinder.
Link Plus ECU,
Turbosmart E-Boost controller,
Garrett 700HP BB Turbo,
Crack tested, balanced, nitrided crankshaft,
Carrilo Rods,
Crower forged pistons,
ported head,
modified camshafts,
Custom exhaust manifold,
PSR 45mm external wastegate,
3" mandrel bend exhaust system,
Herbert Fabrications custom made Intercooler,
XF Throttle body,
550cc primary injectors, 440cc secondary,
2 Bosch fuel pumps,
MSD DIS-4 Ignition,
External Oil Pump.
Performance: 600 HP at the wheels.
(Boost set at 1.6 bar)
1/4 mile ET: 9.12 @ 153.95 mph
Driveline: Nismo steel flywheel,
twin plate quarter Master clutch,
Skyline R33 RB25-DET 5 speed,
heavy duty tailshaft, 4.1:1 LSD.
Brakes & Suspension: Standard S12 brakes,
adjustable shocks.
Wheels & Tyres: Weld draglights 15 x 5 front,
Supra 16 x 9 rear with 26 x 11.5 x 16 MT ET streets.
yes but the r200 long nose is the same as the s13 r200 open diff there fore all USDM lsd kits for the s13 as long as its for the OPEN diff will work otherwise you will need LSD axles
ok well im doing a vh45de swap and i may twin turbo it in the futrure. can the z31 / 300zx (pre 89) diff take that much hp&torque? im already installing the roll cage chassis stiffeners and spot welding the chassis so it will take what ever i throw at it. so hmm
The Z31 diff and the S12 diff are exactly the same
well crap lol so what is a good upgrade diff then for my s12 then?
Just a good LSD. The R200 is strong as.
ok I know that david B made a similar thread but I'm not going to undo the bolts that control the bearings I'm just going to undo the diff mount bolts (top 2 that are near the drain plug and fill plug), 4 that bolt the diff to the subframe, and the bolts that connect the cv shafts to the car, and the driveline bolts
the only question is while I'm doing this are there any new seals/gaskets that I need to purchase? is there anything that I need to be in special watch out for?
great thanks guys 4 the info. since i will be useing this for drift applications,taking any factors of labor out of the equation is there a differant setup in the rear i should use?
any seals or gaskets that I need to replace on the diff where the cv shafts connect? anyone know?
If you don't take the diff apart, you don't have to worry about any seals.
change your fluid.might as well
cool yeah when it was taken form the yard it had 156,xxx miles on it and they drained the fluid near clear



