Changing Valve Stem Oil Seals (head-on!)

Started by Steve · Oct 10, 2006 · 16postsSMF 2010–26

SteveOct 10, 2006, 7:11 pm · #1

After having a few problems with one of my motors with excess oil consumption, I have found a how to although its for a Supra the basics are the same:

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=5

Thread rope into the cylinder and then turn it clcokwise until resistance is felt, then use a Valve tool to remove the cotters and change the seal.
This could be a cheap fix if you think your Turbo is good but still have oil burning !

I did mine the other day and it took me Two hours to do all Eight. Just be careful and take it slow and make sure you block up the oil holes in the head to make sure no cotters can fall in the sump!

Spencer 200SX Turbo ZXOct 11, 2006, 2:07 am · #2

Sweet

I hadn't heard of that method; I used compressed air to hold my valves in place, but this method is cheaper than hiring the compressor/adaptor and does the same job

Did it solve your problems? My smoke/consumption was 100% valve stem seals.

SteveOct 11, 2006, 1:17 pm · #3

Yes, I knew my Turbo was fine as it was a New recon and compression in all pots was 150psi + although this Cannot discount Oil Rings. So before resulting to very drastic action I changed them and now there is no smoke even reving then engine to 5k+ at stand still ! I would highly recommend it Before condeming the engine !!!

Spencer 200SX Turbo ZXOct 11, 2006, 1:39 pm · #4

Excellent!

Did you find any seals missing completely or cracked in half? I had 2 completely gone, and the rest were in the process of self destructing.

Valve stem oil seals going seems to be very common on CA engines at about 120k miles although mine was only at 80k when they went, but think the hot climate in CA/NV had something to do with it as there were a few problems with oil seals and rubber parts in general on my car. I also had to change out the front oil seal, camshaft front seal and the dizzy o-ring around the same time.

SteveOct 13, 2006, 5:00 pm · #5

No mine were fine just not fitted properly when the head was Refurbed!. The rebuilder didn't knock them on properly

Pas94Nov 26, 2006, 5:48 am · #6

I'm even cheaper...
Just make sure the cylinder you are doing is at top dead center and the valves cant go anywhere

alundraJun 8, 2010, 4:23 pm · #7

I thought that the valves can go a few into the combustion engine, what type of valve compressor did you use?

peppperAug 9, 2010, 7:38 pm · #8

As a follow up:

As long as the current piston is within about 5 degrees or so of TDC, the valve will not go far enough into the engine to prevent you from reinstalling the keepers. You may need to pry the valve up a tiny bit with a flathead screwdriver to have it high enough to install the keeper, but it's not an impossible task. One of the few advantages to having an interference engine.

Although....Make sure you have a decent valve spring compressor, not like the shit NAPA one I borrowed from work that broke twice while I was using it. The #1 and #4 intake valves do get a little tricky though, not a lot of space...

Saves pulling out the air compressor, or shoving a bunch or rope into the cylinder.

alundraAug 10, 2010, 9:10 am · #9

I bought something like this:

posted image

In order to set the 2nd and also 3td at TDC, do you have a hint?

peppperAug 11, 2010, 3:16 am · #10

alundraI bought something like this:

In order to set the 2nd and also 3td at TDC, do you have a hint?

I used that exact same valve spring compressor. you will need to either modify it or get a different one to change the seal on the intake valve of the #4 cylinder.

To set #2 & #3 pistons at TDC, pull all the spark plugs on the exhaust side, and shine a flashlight down the spark plug holes, while you slowly turn the crank. You will see the top of the piston. When it looks like the piston is starting to go back down, you are within a reasonable few degrees of TDC, and safe to start removing springs. BTW I used a magnet to remove the keepers. I used a Blue-Point telescoping magnet, and it worked quite well. I wouldnt attempt this method without a magnet, because the valve will drop a few millimeters, but it is still do-able.

alundraAug 11, 2010, 10:18 am · #11

one last ask, by modifing for the 4th, you mean i need to bend something because because of lack of space?
Thanks mate.

peppperAug 12, 2010, 1:38 am · #12

I would cut off the two tabs that I circled in red, because you wont have enough space, kinda sucks but beats buying another. But then again, it may not be very useful afterwards
posted image

xxstreetbikesxxAug 12, 2010, 2:17 am · #13

i never heard of this method. lol.. It will definetly save alot of time.

alundraAug 12, 2010, 9:32 am · #14

Perfect mate!

alundraOct 31, 2010, 9:17 pm · #15

Hi, guys.
I tried to do this, this afternoon and i'm in trouble now.
I use the tool said before.
I can't compress enough to remove the keepers.
I also notice that when i compressed it, the spring isn't loose enough, it compress upwards, i mean that the spring retainer don't go down like the retainer and keepers stuck.
And i also notice even i'm at TDC the valve can move like 0,5 cm down the piston.
Must i use some rope?
Thanks in advance because i need to fix my car for tuesday.
Cheers.

peppperNov 5, 2010, 5:27 am · #16

Well, I'm a bit late on this one, but what I try is this. When you notice the spring is compressing upwards instead of downwards, just rock the spring compressor from side to side. That will release the keepers from the washer. Then, while pushing down(and forcing the spring down) shove the magnet as close to the keepers as you can until you hook one.

This method is easier in some ways, but it's a pretty ghetto way of doing it. It worked for me, that's all I will say.

Oh, and when it comes time to install the new ones: get an 11 mm deep socket and a hammer to install the new seals. Don't use a flathead screwdriver. It's just...not...a good idea