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S12 To S13 Story Plus Clarfication Journey To Beyond.

Started by Premo · Sep 8, 2006 · 38postsSMF 2010–26

PremoSep 8, 2006, 6:17 pm · #1

has anyone actually physically removed a Z31 rear subframe and tried to stuff it under...oh....say an SE?  i hear they're teh same, then i hear they're different, then i hear they're the same.  who's tried it?

Empedocles99Sep 8, 2006, 6:23 pm · #2

I think I read a thread a while ago about someone who had actually replaced his rear with z31 parts. I don't know if it went all the way to the subframe replacement though. You might be able to find that thread?

PremoSep 8, 2006, 7:00 pm · #3

mm, some threads say its identical, some say its close.  i want to know for sure if i can bolt it in before i go thru the hassle..

sam31183Sep 9, 2006, 7:48 am · #4

i have to ask premo...why go from the s12 rear end to the z31 rear end? Especially if it is the same.

PremoSep 9, 2006, 7:05 pm · #5

cause i have a spare one in my back yard and id like to do some modifications to my rear subframe in my SE.  but if i do i want a stock subframe to put back in in case i fuck it up.  get it?

EternalSwapSep 9, 2006, 10:16 pm · #6

Why not modify the Z31 one?

PremoSep 9, 2006, 11:32 pm · #7

well, im not gona hassle with the Z31 subframe if it doesnt fit..

NeedCAforS13Sep 10, 2006, 12:17 am · #8

i can think of only one way to find out =)

PremoSep 10, 2006, 2:29 am · #9

yup!

JonBSep 12, 2006, 3:53 am · #10
Premo-S12yup!
 Like I said before I'm new to this whole site. But I have an 86' 200sx notch and my first was an 84' with the solid axle. The 84' is now seeming like a better design with anti-squat geometry. Any way not to digress, I within the last week went and grabbed the brake parts from a 5lug Z31. I had the salvage yard burn the rear A-arms for the hubs and whole brake assembley. The rear half seems like it will work with the stock 200sx trailing arms. The rear caliper has a wider clamp caliper for the vented disc, but is apperantly the same and will fit because it comes with a different caliper bracket that bolts to the same trail arm. I think I'll let you know soon when I assemble them. I had cut out the rubber bushing ends, on 200sx turbo rear end I grabbed for the R200 diff, and replaced them with spherical bearing ones from StockCarProducts and also boxed the rear arms. So I'm hoping I wont have to start over on the rear arms if it doesn't work.And for the rear the 89' up 2-piston caliper 300ZX looks like it will bolt to the 4-lug rotor but is wider for a vented disc and worst of all has no provisional cam for integrated parking brake. The later 300 uses a drum in the center of the disc for P-brake, this  caliper won't seem to work with the Z31 5-lug assembley with out a custom braket and custom P-brake, But for both things I'm working on Ideas. And O'h yea I think the 5-lug Z31 rear hubs will fit and are suspected by me to be the same pieces used on the V6 88' 200sx sold in the States, and most likly else where. And the the front: I first pulled just the rotor,caliper,caliper bracket, and hub off the Z31. I had to go back to the yard and get the Z31 strut/spindle assembly because unlike the rear the front required a longer caliper bracket and wasn't remidied by the differnt bracket. Also the strut housing/spindle uses a different steering arm/ball joint reciever, Just like the back, I modified the front lower control arm. For the front I couldn't find pillow-ball upper camber kits, but I think Z31 kits will work if you can find them. Also custom ones might be able to be fabricated. I thought out a seemingly good plan for that but this is what I did instead; I cut the front lower A-arm in half, ordered trailing arm bars tapped to fit 3/4" heim joints, and made braces to weld the two together. There are spacer/inserts that will fit in the heim joints that will use a 1/2" bolt. Also there are large 1/2" eccentric bolts avaible. I had my machine shop custom make brakets for the eccentrics and welded them to the front crossmember. I also purchased extra for the rear, but have yet to decide the best way to use them, Ill go back to that later. Any way I'm about to find out if the Z31 strut/steering arm assembly will fit the stock S12 4-lug balljoint, if not I'll have to go and get Z31 lower control arms and modifiy them in the same way. Also I cut the spring perches off the stock S12 strut tubes and welded a series of brackets/stops lower on the tube and slid 2" coil-over sleeves on. I'll have to modify the Z31 strut tubes in the same way befor I can get it together. And on top of all this there is another matter of getting longer outer tie-rod ends, Z31.com claims the 5-lug Z31 is 10mm wider than the 4-lug, eitherway I'm sure the stock S12 parts can give me some width safly or I can find another suitible tierod that is longer for mor aggressive front camber, If new problems are found, or the best wider tierods are found, or If the whole thing turns to a complete disaster, I'll try and let y'all know. Also there is front anti-roll, rear anti-roll, and rear camber to consider. Rear toe is adjustible from the factory, and can be increase beyond that with custom eccentric bolts and brackets. Rear anti-squat seems impossible with a trailing arm no-matter what I do. But I think rear steer suspension toe geometery problems can be completely solved by spherical bearing and rear toe adjustments. Anything else I'll write back later. Any advice/knowledge I hope ya'll write, I wanna know. Thanks; JonB
JonBSep 12, 2006, 4:44 am · #11
JonB Like I said before I'm new to this whole site. But I have an 86' 200sx notch and my first was an 84' with the solid axle. The 84' is now seeming like a better design with anti-squat geometry. Any way not to digress, I within the last week went and grabbed the brake parts from a 5lug Z31. I had the salvage yard burn the rear A-arms for the hubs and whole brake assembley. The rear half seems like it will work with the stock 200sx trailing arms. The rear caliper has a wider clamp caliper for the vented disc, but is apperantly the same and will fit because it comes with a different caliper bracket that bolts to the same trail arm. I think I'll let you know soon when I assemble them. I had cut out the rubber bushing ends, on 200sx turbo rear end I grabbed for the R200 diff, and replaced them with spherical bearing ones from StockCarProducts and also boxed the rear arms. So I'm hoping I wont have to start over on the rear arms if it doesn't work.And for the rear the 89' up 2-piston caliper 300ZX looks like it will bolt to the 4-lug rotor but is wider for a vented disc and worst of all has no provisional cam for integrated parking brake. The later 300 uses a drum in the center of the disc for P-brake, this  caliper won't seem to work with the Z31 5-lug assembley with out a custom braket and custom P-brake, But for both things I'm working on Ideas. And O'h yea I think the 5-lug Z31 rear hubs will fit and are suspected by me to be the same pieces used on the V6 88' 200sx sold in the States, and most likly else where. And the the front: I first pulled just the rotor,caliper,caliper bracket, and hub off the Z31. I had to go back to the yard and get the Z31 strut/spindle assembly because unlike the rear the front required a longer caliper bracket and wasn't remidied by the differnt bracket. Also the strut housing/spindle uses a different steering arm/ball joint reciever, Just like the back, I modified the front lower control arm. For the front I couldn't find pillow-ball upper camber kits, but I think Z31 kits will work if you can find them. Also custom ones might be able to be fabricated. I thought out a seemingly good plan for that but this is what I did instead; I cut the front lower A-arm in half, ordered trailing arm bars tapped to fit 3/4" heim joints, and made braces to weld the two together. There are spacer/inserts that will fit in the heim joints that will use a 1/2" bolt. Also there are large 1/2" eccentric bolts avaible. I had my machine shop custom make brakets for the eccentrics and welded them to the front crossmember. I also purchased extra for the rear, but have yet to decide the best way to use them, Ill go back to that later. Any way I'm about to find out if the Z31 strut/steering arm assembly will fit the stock S12 4-lug balljoint, if not I'll have to go and get Z31 lower control arms and modifiy them in the same way. Also I cut the spring perches off the stock S12 strut tubes and welded a series of brackets/stops lower on the tube and slid 2" coil-over sleeves on. I'll have to modify the Z31 strut tubes in the same way befor I can get it together. And on top of all this there is another matter of getting longer outer tie-rod ends, Z31.com claims the 5-lug Z31 is 10mm wider than the 4-lug, eitherway I'm sure the stock S12 parts can give me some width safly or I can find another suitible tierod that is longer for mor aggressive front camber, If new problems are found, or the best wider tierods are found, or If the whole thing turns to a complete disaster, I'll try and let y'all know. Also there is front anti-roll, rear anti-roll, and rear camber to consider. Rear toe is adjustible from the factory, and can be increase beyond that with custom eccentric bolts and brackets. Rear anti-squat seems impossible with a trailing arm no-matter what I do. But I think rear steer suspension toe geometery problems can be completely solved by spherical bearing and rear toe adjustments. Anything else I'll write back later. Any advice/knowledge I hope ya'll write, I wanna know. Thanks; JonB
All right I'm back, got tired of typing. From where I left off; the front anti-roll and bump steer should be-able to be corrected by adding spacers between the strut/spindle and steering arm. A spacer like this is avalible for other nissans from Nissanmotorsport for 510s and early modle Zs. For the S12 or Z31 this spacer will probably have to be custom machined, and should be the same hight as the amount the car is lowered. For the rear subframe, A stock 200turbo piece I removed the factory rubber mounts, cut out the steel spacerfrom the bushing and welded the spacer to the rear crossmember using plates made by using two different sized hole saws and a piece of steel flat stock. As for the rear camber/anti-roll I have yet to tackle. But one knoledgeble source seems to be the web sight for early generation BMW M3s, made in the late 80's and early 90's. That M3 has a very simmilar suspension desighn. It looks like making the adjustment for rear camber should be on the A-arm and not at the bushing this way you could change rear camber but keep the same anti-roll.
fyneyoungstunnaMay 1, 2009, 5:43 pm · #12

i got one

David BMay 1, 2009, 7:20 pm · #13

hey bart, how from from terroton idaho (hor however you spell it) are you?
im about to go there this summer to visit family

XtortionMay 11, 2009, 6:25 am · #14

HOLA! i apologize if this has been covered earlier in the post, i dont remember seeing it anywhere, will these work the same way for the SE's? and if they do, is there any way of getting all the raw parts required to fab these up? im hoping to cut down on some time and cost (sending mine to you, you fab them, send them back) and if you are willing to send the raw parts, any chance on some simple drawings with measurments for any cuts that need to be made? im a WABO certified welder so i was hoping to assemble them myself to save some monay

a tin pan alleyJun 16, 2009, 6:14 am · #15

do the springs only come in red?

idahos13Aug 20, 2009, 6:07 pm · #16

These coilovers are way nice looking man! Keep up the good work!

danginaAug 20, 2009, 6:26 pm · #17

Hey Bart - what the I.d. Of the spring And what length are u using? Just curious...

NemisisAug 29, 2009, 3:35 pm · #18

To me thay look like 2.5" ID and about 7" long. Probably wrong on the length, but most coilover sleeves I've seen are that diameter.

I was just thinking the same question too. For people who want to switch spring rates between different types of handling (One set of springs for street/grip another for drag or drift) so they don't have only one rate to "deal with" while doing the type of spirited driving they prefer.

D-sport S12Oct 19, 2009, 9:32 pm · #19

Just a question. Would we be able to customize spring rates, cause i want my car stiff it doesnt bother me. i was thinking around FR: 550lb/in and R: 450lb/in

falkhenAug 2, 2010, 3:47 pm · #20

old thread with no speculative answer does Z31 subframe fit S12.
Answer is NO it hits the body. Also Noted that JonB is being long winded...sigh!! His answer has no relevance to the question. Doh!

mod_mastazAug 11, 2010, 10:04 am · #21

Are you sure it wasn't the m30 rear subframe? And if it wasn't, did you make sure the subframe wasn't flipped upside down? Did you compare the Z31 and S12 one side to side?

86foreverAug 11, 2010, 7:43 pm · #22

I hope your right Mod_monstaz   i only have 1 day at my job to put it together before they tell me to move my shit.

mod_mastazAug 11, 2010, 8:40 pm · #23

If you need to move it, throw it outside of the shop and put it on jackstands. I can button up everything in 2 hours. I did my entire rear end, on both of my cars, on the floor.

EDIT: If anything, just swap the arms, not the subframe. I didn't have to use a Z31 subframe, but after looking at a bunch from the yards and at pictures, they look identical, where its welded and all.

falkhenAug 11, 2010, 9:27 pm · #24

trust me Randy wanted that thing to work...
So did I.

No the Z31 sub-frame does not work. it has arc that hits the body.
the Z31 control arms Bolt up to S12 direct bolt in, brakes and all.

this is what i have and how i did my 5 lug conversion in the rear.

falkhenAug 16, 2010, 2:28 am · #25

I was looking at my old Pics of my car... yeah i never posted them
My old engine bay with CA18ET
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b262/fal...urrent=4c71.jpg

front mount installed with 84 turbo hood, installed
posted image

hood painted black
posted image
later car was stolen and the bump stolen with tools. car left in running condition.

Clock replacement with Gay garbage from Autozone, what the hell was i thinking.. or not.
posted image
Rb twinky install
posted image

Greddy t-Belt on RBtwinky
posted image

Z31 breaks AP brake lines / S14 brake rotors those are brand new. broke them in real good like..heheheh!
posted image

15"x6" et +35 FORD wheels on S12 after 5 lug conversion

posted image
posted image
wedsports nobody liked
posted image
 
MB Battles 17x9.5 on stretched 215/40 17's
Fender Stretched 2"s
posted image

235/40/17's replacing 215's
posted image

camber after slotting, toe in is just awfule.
posted image

new coilovers
posted image

set of 19x10's i was looking at, but i don't think wise to change bolt pattern again to 5x130 just for a set of wheels
posted image

Alex FrostAug 17, 2010, 2:43 am · #26

Try to look for a set of the CCW Classics...5X114.3 available and any width/offset/size.  They are pricey but nice.

mod_mastazAug 17, 2010, 3:52 am · #27

A1 can be used on both S12 and S13 conversions.

DeezusAug 17, 2010, 8:38 am · #28

idk if i like battles on an s12 or not....

falkhenAug 17, 2010, 11:23 am · #29
Deezusidk if i like battles on an s12 or not....

you don't have to like them

$165 each 17x9.5 et +18
cost effective

also looking at XXR 522's Super Concaves
in 18x10 and 18x9
IggyEGuanaAug 17, 2010, 4:57 pm · #30

stick with 17s. good drift sizes are way cheaper

falkhenAug 23, 2010, 12:47 pm · #31

doh!

MaxpowAug 23, 2010, 7:58 pm · #32

I have this swap sitting in my back yard. I need to get down on this shit.

CamInHeadAug 24, 2010, 9:21 pm · #33
falkhentrust me Randy wanted that thing to work...
So did I.

No the Z31 sub-frame does not work. it has arc that hits the body.
the Z31 control arms Bolt up to S12 direct bolt in, brakes and all.

this is what i have and how i did my 5 lug conversion in the rear.

uh oh.....I just spent a lot of monies getting a z31 frame ready to go on mine  
Ace-KAug 24, 2010, 11:35 pm · #34

Hi, Was just wondering if these are still for sale and if anyone has experience with them? Been looking into suspension for my S12 and always wanted coilovers, after reading all this it seems a better option than trying to switch everything to S13 parts for rear and front.

Any advice would be great, cheers!

vegasS12Aug 24, 2010, 11:37 pm · #35

bart hasnt posted in a while he has had bad rep for some time now best option is to conv the front to s13

DjayS12Aug 24, 2010, 11:39 pm · #36
vegasS12bart hasnt posted in a while he has had bad rep for some time now best option is to conv the front to s13

^what he said and then get either BC or Megan Racing coilover for the S12 as they are made for S12s with S13 front conversion. Those S12 coilover are bolt-on in the rear.
David BAug 24, 2010, 11:41 pm · #37

you guys realize the he hasnt posted in this thread forever right

JayAug 24, 2010, 11:52 pm · #38
DjayS12^what he said and then get either BC or Megan Racing coilover for the S12 as they are made for S12s with S13 front conversion. Those S12 coilover are bolt-on in the rear.

Or you talk to me if you don't want to go with Tein/Ksport/Stance/Etc, as I make the retrofit for the rear, and now have the factory style tie rod setup that doesn't involve cutting, welding, or thread tapping.

Thread getting locked to prevent further postings on it, as the thread starter is no longer with us.