Need some advice from the forum, long>>>>

I will be attempting to do a 60k maintenance on the 200SX for the first time. Does anyone have any tips? How long does it take? Do I need any special tools?

I see myself as being mechanically incline, I have done the 60k on my Z32 and I know that's a PIA, but I've done it 4 times for separate reasons. On TT.NET, they have awsome write ups and pictures, do we have anything of the sort here? If not, I might document and take pictures as I go through it.

I did have a question about the spark plugs, I believe our cars have eight, can anyone provide me with the correct NGK numbers (normal and cooler)?

Finally, can anyone recommend a good place to order the parts?

Thanks,

Brian
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86 S12 Turbo
90 Z32 TT

I don't know if I'm sure I follow you on your "60K" service, but I guess at 60k you'd want to do:

1 - Timing Belt
2 - Spark Plugs
3 - Spark Plug Wires
4 - Dizzy Cap & Rotor
5 - 02 Sensor

The timing belt is the only PITA, but not really a big deal if you've done one before.

If not, try using the search to find a how-to post, if you can't find it, I'll write out a how to here.

I'm drawing a total blank on the sparkplugs, but I used Champions anyway.
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1987 200sx CA18ETi
1972 Dodge Charger 413ci/6.6L
1968 Mercury Cougar 289ci/4.6L
Matt Lamperd
http://www.angelfire.com/freak/brutesquad/index.html

Intake-------------------Exhaust
BCPR6es-11------------BCPR5es-11

Cooler
BCPR7es-11------------BCPR6es-11 or 7es-11

A large strap wrench is usefull in dealing with the crank pully. Also there is a cam immobilizer bar that you could prolly rent or make to help with the timing belt. Basically it's just a better way to stop the cam than trying to jam a rachet against it(ask me and my scarred knuckles how we know icon_rolleyes.gif )

btw you should buy a factory nissan belt as it comes with some very helpful markings.

oh and the only thing i'd add to MR. 200's list would be the fuel filter.

if your doing fuel filter, install the Z32 unit instead of the stocker S12. It drops right in and flows more than the stocker. (or atleast I would assume it did so)
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Jeff Hester
1986 200sx 2.0L
1967 El Camino 402ci

The FSM has some fairly detailed but generic call outs. As a rule, I replace all belts, hoses, and check chassis torque every 60K. Its probably overkill, but Id I'm going to spend a whole day, I'd just as soon do it all at once.

Ron
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1973 Saab Sonett V4
1984 & 1986 200SX
1985 & 1986 300ZX

How does one check chassis torque?

Wrong term, up too late waiting for my compiler.....

The FSM recommends you retorque the suspencion components. As the rubber compression sets, often times things loosen up. Checking the various parts also insure that if you car was serviced by someone else, that the parts are torqued properly.

It is a good thing that virtually no bolts are torqued for max holding power, as in that case, damage would be possible as max holding power occurs when the bolt becomes enlongated. Thus fasteners used in that type of application are one time onlys. Bolt together, torque, and if repair is needed, disassmemble, and then throw away fasteners and replace. Fairly common with $20 aircraft bolts....
Ron
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1973 Saab Sonett V4
1984 & 1986 200SX
1985 & 1986 300ZX

btw. i bought an aftermarket timing belt and it had the correct timing marks on it.

man I"ve changed the timing belt on the 200 so many times, that I can do it in approx 10min, REALLY helps u out if u delete the clutch fan and go elec fan, and get rid of all of the shroud..so much easier to work and get in there when u need to.
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The Heat is ONNN!!!!

sschung: Good to know. What brand was it? The one I got from nissan was a pirelli(sp?) Kinda odd to have a Italian part on there.

damn, it was half a year ago and i don't remember. i'm pretty sure it wasn't a big name like gates or goodyear... i think i got it from parts source or canadian tire. about $14 (compared to say, $95 aftermarket for my neon!). in any case, before you pay for it, just pop open the box and check for the marks. they're 2 white lines on the side of the belt.

I'd recommend setting the engine at top dead center on the #1 cylinder just in case anything turns at all while you are working.
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Sterling Picton -working on a CA20 turbo solution with minimal CA18ET components and money lol