Projects: Robin the crimson avenger - 86.5

Cool, how did you score a Bartco intercooler? Years ago I paid him for one and he split the scene with my greenies! Can't wait to hear how it goes.

came with it.

PICS!!!

There added one also uploaded 2 new videos to the playlist listed.

I have an innovate LC-1 wideband I am going to install, I was going to use on the SEv6 but this seems to be more of the required since nistune doesn't pick it up and there is no pc interface for the AEM one currently installed and seems to be if I want to get a better fuel mapping it needs an wideband interface.

Added a new video, technically I was working with the MAF mV, injector, timing, and Fuel Maps to get it to idle a bit better, but I still have more tuning since WOT, it bogs out at 4k rpm now.
It is a working progress as I am also understanding the software alot more now and with a lot of nistune forum research and videos

https://youtu.be/RkmKOT6pSXw

Back on track with this guy, I think at this point any nistune tuning is just not fully feesable because I am now back to where I have started on the plus side no more oil in the intake as I have rerouted all the oil lines to the oil catch can.
cold start idle is junk, can't rev or anything and have to fight with it to keep her on, on warm up idle is at 2k and driving it bogs down badly and dies unless I put my foot in the gas and ride the throttle from 15%  to 50%.

https://youtu.be/iRk_ogWZPUQ is the latest video.



I am going to start to do some inspection and tracing, and I am going to start with the most common part the AAC / FICD and check for more vaccum leaks.

Did discover a rear main seal leak and the oil filler cap seal is also leaking, this is starting to turn into a really big project. But it is worth it in the end.

So I need to take a step back and after reviewing some actual posts I have a list to work from.  Due to the issue is in that bay, it is preventing me from doing any type of actual tuning keeps me having to reload the original tune.

I also need to kick open the FSM as well and see other troubleshooting methods.
cold start, is better when I disabled the AAC and adjusted the TB by the screw.
warm up it get to 800 - 1,000 rpms until I rev it once when doing so it will bog down or idle will be matched at 2k rpm and rise to 2500 rpm. with 14.2 in the AFR
Attempt to drive, and will bog at first but if you ride it at 2k+ rpm it will drive until you come to a complete stop then it will stall or idle will change to 300 - 400 rpm AFR is now at 9 and according to nistune it is at very high load.
 
Adjusting anything in that high mode with low rpm doesn't work at all.

After some deep research, FSM hunting, tracing and locating. I have found a few problems

1) Injectors; being that it is stock injectors being used the PSI for the fuel pressure was way off according to the FSM, sure enough doing has helped dramatically in the fuel mapping.  From what I have read and researched T3/T4 turbo setup with more then 20psi min is 550cc injectors at 43psi of fuel for it to correctly run right, 450cc dsm I have might not cut it but I also read success stories with them working as well but RX7 ones are more golden to go after. So in the mean time the recommended PSI is 29 - 33psi and changing that did a huge change with the idle and cold start, fuel maps are off still.

2) BOV, Greddy RS Type is blown, I can't adjust it as the adjuster is broken and it leaks boost at idle so this is another issue I have found.   

Next to check is the plugs and the gap in them according to the FSM.

Replaced injectors with 450CC noticed a better difference and changed out the BOV with an HKS not blown setup.  Adjusted the fuel pressure a bit to see if it also helps and so far the test seems to be successful, I also found a vacuum leak with the brake booster vacuum hose and a few boost leaks.  The current nistune maps are good, but with the est. Fuel Ratio it doesn't want to stay, this Ca seems to be just like it's predecessors, very temperamental I see why people hate this motor. 

It is frustrating, I don't want to give up on hard problems but every time I miss an event I seem to loose motivation now and just want to continue my vg30s project.

So the update on this is, she is frustrating.

This is engine vs nistune.

When I tune the engine, she takes the tune with a grain of salt and this has been an ongoing battle all weekend long.

Still stalls under High Load and Deceleration.

nistune AFR ratio is different then the readings given by the Wideband.
if the WB shows 14, Nistune gives the tune at 20.

OT Tune, regardless what I tune it at, it will lean out to 18 then --.-- 
when it decelerates, it will rich up to 10 and stay until it stalls.

Adjust the tables seems to not work much at all.
Adjust the FPR, Idle screw, and the BOV and sames results.

Pretty sure my neighbors hate me now as I keep running this car with no plates  and accel and decel. I can't seem to break traction either as if I OT in 1st or 2nd gear it bogs down in power. So I get to miss another practice day yay!

I did change the plugs, just a rich condition was the original plugs and found a coilpack that was broken but I found a replacement with parts I have that tested good.

I will get to the bottom of it, even if it means I need to pull the damn thing apart and put it back together.  I will start testing all the leads later with a multimeter.
I also disable the AAC as part of the troubleshooting seems to not able to do anything anyways.

So I stumbled upon a forum that has the similar issue, turns out that top mount turbo with less bends has more of a "washback" issue then others. What this means is that the high amount of pressure drawn in as soon as you release the gas the racing air escapes back from the turbo causing that air to be mistaken for reverse airflow.

This explains why I see a huge power surge with Nistune when the gas is lifted.

Solutions 1: create piping longer with more bends to help with the less travel to the MAF,

Solution 2: pick up HKS EIDS, or see how about doing so with nistune.

Damn that's a lot of shit! So the injectors aren't stock? As far as I knew they were that's what I was told anyway when I bought it...
Post Merge

hah! I don't give up easy! I do love a good challenge tho and I think the original injectors are stock, just with the boost it was taking in was not strong enough to keep up.

Maf was too close to the turbo also, now that I have finally figured it all out I have to now troubleshoot the weird burning oil and tail of smoke it keeps doing and the leaking oil looking from the rear main seal.

leak could be from the trans too

Yeah, it could be. Feels like normal oil tho I seen it drip directly from the bellhousing meets the motor and the head is dry back there, I'll get it squared away I am just a bit more excited to get the sev6 back together now, I have got this one where it is now fully tune-able.

Smoke it blows now though smells like oilish burning it's thick looks Grey though... not white nor blue. my sinuses has also been messing with me bad this past week so my smelling might actually be off.

I am going to be doing a cyl leak down test before proceeding then from there I am not fully sure how to test the turbo for a bad oil seal with out fully pulling it off.

Is it constNt smoke or just every now and then? It happened to me randomly at idle....

I need more time, but I think it is a bit with the tune. Seems to be different now since I have a solid 14.7 and idling at 1k rpm. More smoke then it used to be before,

Could be the tune, could be something leaking somewhere.

Ahh ok....

A little update, as this project was technically pushed aside as I was focusing on the Fairlady Silvia project.... I need minions =(

I did spend a little time, turns out the turbo seals on the generic T3/T4 is blown, so I will be finish pulling that soon, I will also be pulling the transmission to repair the rear main seal that is also a  problem and causing a huge oil leak. So I have been researching the   GT3071 / GT3076R as a suitable replacement water and oil cooled turbo and including adding an oil cooler as well.

On the other news I will also need to create a better way to route the intake a little bit better, I currently have made an arm like how the KA24DE does their arms just to get a precise A/F ratio and was able to lock down the 14.7 A/F with Nistune timing, starts up and fires good still need to drive her but not with a blown turbo and dumping oil everywhere.  Currently and still running 450cc dsm injectors at 37 psi - 42 psi of fuel pressure major upgrade from the stock injectors so for the current setup with the turbo & wastegate @ 16PSI spring I need min 550cc, 450cc is the bare min from the research but recommended at least 550cc + if I plan to see the full potential of that 16PSI.

I think a better route would be to eliminate most of the intercooler lines by doing the same setup as Waylon has, I also is looking to make sometype of water proof relay box for the relays that was ran for the engine harness.

So a few things planned that are coming and I might be consolidating Projects with Nightfury with Project Serenity when the motor is locked down, still in the air on that.

What do you mean consolidating?

I got like 4 and 1/2 s12's I was tossing the idea of making 2 best out of the 4, store the other 2 as shells.  But I am starting to lean away from this instead, the carb conversion on another mk2 shell just not going to fully happen again. 
On the other hand, I really can't wait till I can start on this project now. I might start cleaning and clearing up the red car tho in the mean time. The dual ball bearing water and oil cooled turbo is going to cost between 1300 - 1500 which means I need to pay off my Credit Card now. Good thing I am about done with my carb conversion on the sev6.

Why not go oil cooled for simplicity and then you don't have to worry about running the water lines? It would be a faster swap for you...

As an update, that is just for a future plans that is.

For now I am working on slowly to relocate the T25 from the red 86 to the cadet, just this heat this past week has been getting to me to a point I just cannot handle the heat right now as it has been between 109-110 with 10 - 15% Humid outside. 

By doing this I will be also doing a tune to down the boost for the time being till I can afford for 550cc+ injectors (800cc maybe)  yet still in the research of how much I want to go.

I noticed cracks in the o rings for the injectors I will also be fixing that as well. I think for now the T25 projecting around 10psi of boost with the 450cc dsm injectors should be solid enough to play around with and get her back on the road with a good enough tune to where I can also take her to the track and get sideways with.

With the red car, when time permits, I will be hunting down a secondary T25 or rebuild this one if it is possible to rebuild since there is a huge shaft play on this second t25 I found, working on cleaning it up in the process as I also got a stock fuel pump already just have to replace the wire inside as the covers are all cracked and fell off well technically don't need to replace just re-wrap  the wiring.  FSM I have is a direct for this 86.5, awesome find and found it extremely cheap on ebay.

That turbo is bad as well it needs seals remember I told you that when you took the red car home

Well, I just learned something new as I am about to start revisiting this project.

o-rings are bad and needs to be replaced as I have noticed.

At the 450cc dsm installed I need to run them at 100% duty cycle to match the boost it is currently set at,
if I am to reduce the cycle to let say 80% I will need about 550-600cc. @ 43 psi of fuel pressure.

This will help when I kick open nistune and start tuning again. Looks like I will have to keep an eye out for upgraded injectors before I can go full boar (oink oink)

in the mean time I am going to locate the oil leak and do some repairs.

Just a heads up there are 2 springs in the wastegate if you take one out it will lower your boost pressure IIRC you'll drop to 10 psi...

Since I have this weird desire to crack blocks, I have rendered myself to buy a new daily. So this is and has returned to my main focus.

Pulled the motor last weekend, found a huge leak that looks like is coming from the rear main seal, upon removing the flywheel bolts. The heads stripped, and somehow I lost the took to remove the hex bolt heads with out cutting them off 1/8 that is all 7 came off with no issues. I will have to order a new set of ARP or Nissan OEM flywheel bolts as soon as I can find the part # for the replacement.

There is some other issues I found, including the wiring harness has some problems as well so I will be ordering more clips for the wiring harness.
Also I have to do something with the wiring to the 3 relays and the 6 fuse wired in as a fuse box and all unlabeled so I would not know which is what?

I am spending some time to clean up the engine bay while I am at it, somethings I am doing a bit different since this motor is out I can start dressing it up some if not alot. With also on the idea of relocating the wiring harness to the driver side and plug up the firewall.

CA18det is one thing I do like about it, it has the uncanny similarity to the sohc blocks.  There is a few things I have noticed including the orings for the injectors are all cracked up.

I need to build a better box for the trunk battery, there is alot to do before I start with the drift stuff.

The injectors that are on the motor are not 450s they are stock.... just an fyi

I replaced them with the dsm 450cc

Oh ok...

Just ordered new front and rear oil pain gaskets, and I have a spare oil seal for the ca18/20 that looks exactly like the one installed and found a package of brass freeze plugs and ARP flywheel bolts.

Woot!

Going to merge this post with Project Serenity, due to I have pulled the motor and there is alot of issues internally I am clearing up and decided to relocate this motor into Project Serenity instead of going full on ka24de build.  I am also selling the back the black and red car to Jason ( Sideways_s12 ) Prepping the black car for a v8 swap if jason can locate a v8 swap to toss in, and the shell parts car will also go with the red car.

Sweet! I didn't know the shell of the red car is coming with me tho...And I'm still debating between the vh and the 5.3...

it has all the parts to make the other red car complete.

Ahh ok also is it possible to keep them stored at your place until we get a place with enough space to store them?

Well it all depends if Jason is going to buy back the black car or not in the mean time

I dub thy, Batman and the red car Robin, in the mean time they are my back burner projects,

Batman, is going to get a motor swap project after refreshing the wiring and missing parts that is crucial to the s12 chassis IE: Turn signal stalk un modified. There is alot of work needs to be done on this car before it can be drivable with any motor. Still debating just ka24e stock build or save up for a real v8 swap since I do have the z32 turbo transmission ready for something, maybe a VH45 high compression build.

Robin, pulling the sohc and possible getting a KA24de+t build since I have the whole parts for the ka24de in pieces and Mega Squirt or SR20det,
Also needs alot of work to be done before I can proceed with any type of swap, I do have some Datsun Swazi rims to pick up and install to get them off the flat tire look.

Once again back burner projects or if I can get someone to start helping me with these projects. I have all these projects in my project management book with tons of work as stuff to start taking more in consideration of my http://g-funk.net project.

I am definitely coming to get it Im just waiting to hear back from a few jobs I interviewed for....

Digging deep into the wiring nightmare this car is, reviewing the old blackwidow build thread it was way worse.

Here is some of the example of the rats nest at the oem battery location, and it was relocated in the back. It is hard to see but I will get more pictures later the whole battery relocation pos cable was zip tied to the fuel rail and no cut off switch.  I need to pressure wash the crap out of this engine bay this weekend and fix the relocation with proper hardware, I guess that is one thing about being an IT guy, bad and messy wiring drives me nuts. 

The wholes needs to be fixed where the a/c lines once was ran to prevent exhaust from leaking inside and fix the melted BMC get some hardware to block the heat from the new BMC and other lines.










here is a full walk around Batman, Robin is the red car project.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_V-tJApsOA

It is debatable to see if I want to really want to scrap the whole black car and continue with the blue car conversion. When I look at the blue car I just cringe when I want to do any type of modification to it for the swap.

I'm sending you a pm on facebook...

Ok, so I might do this as a compromise.
I'm going to clean up the black car, fix the wire mess as its something I do in IT already.  Give me about 6 months to acquire megasquirt for the blue car and this would give me time to troubleshoot the motor in a system that did work before so when I convert to ms it will be on a working system.

ok And that'll give me time to gather the funds to buy the black car back from...Is this a positive hing tho I know you change your mind a lot as do I lol

Yeah, its a positive thing. 

ok cool

I got the Robin project turned around, did some looking around and noticed how clean the suspension is under the dirt, as I see it this car has some potential. I placed a black bumper on the front for now till I can get to the red one on the side of my house to pull that bumper and side fender. The dirt is strong inside but I have confidence I can make this work with the 85 harness re-pinned to the 86.5

The black one, I didn't get a chance to start my quest to fix the harness yet since I need a new soldiering gun and it has been on and off raining this past weekend.

This weekend, I plan to start fixing the harness as I did have taken some days off, I am going to take a small trip to the junk yard to also get some clips from an ca20 car that I will need to replace on the red robin car including ignition switch and turn signal light.

Nice! Let me know how the harness repair goes so we can take a look at mine when you get some time after your done...

Well, Project Robin got a a bit of an update today...

I finally put a driver seat in it... yeah there is now a driver seat...  and this stuff, what am I doing here though? you will see soon enough.

I pull a red fender and the red bumper from a spare car I had aside.



Placed the turbo hood because it looks better than the 87 hood.


Cleaning all the spiderwebs below... looking for that spider.



Drastically I did this, that spider had to be somewhere.


There Found the lil bugger, did I mention I hate spiders? I was out of gas with the blow torch so I sprayed it with generic Brake Kleen and watched it die in agony and then I just hammer smashed it till it was more than just a spec on the cement, also damaged the cement on my driveway.


Now for the serious mode.
THese transmission are same same but different but still same.

I Did stuff but not picture worthy yet.